Tvrđa

After our stop in Bilje, Osijek — the fourth largest city of Croatia — was our next stop.

Our brief visit to Osijek concentrated on the Tvrða, the 18th century Habsburg defensive fortress, which is on the tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage Sites. One might also call it the city’s Old Town.

The 1712 fortifications of the Tvrða — citadel — were built as a defensive measure against future Ottoman invasions. Except for the demolition of all but the river-side fortress walls in 1920, the area is preserved as the Baroque military compound that it used to be … though the buildings have been re-purposed. The former City Guard Building, for example, now houses the Archaeological Museum; the Palace of the Slavonian General Command is now the home of the University of Osijek; other educational institutions as well as cafés and shops occupy some of the smaller buildings; and approximately 3,000 households live in residences scattered around the citadel.

The bus dropped us off at a parking lot across the road from the citadel. Apparently, this is where the new visitor center is going to be when construction is completed. Then it was a simple matter of crossing over to the citadel.

Our stroll around the old town area was leisurely. Reaching the Holy Trinity Square, Helena briefly discussed the Holy Trinity Column that was installed in the square in 1730 as a plague monument. She pointed out the volutes (scroll-like ornaments) around the pedestal … atop which are statues of the four protectors against the plague — Saints Charles Borromeo, Francis Xavier, Roch, and Sebastian. The four statues around the outer edge of the column — Immaculate Virgin, and Saints Catherine, John Nepomuk, and Joseph were added in 1784 … taken from two of the city gates.

While in the square, Helena also pointed out the two buildings I mentioned above, as well as St Michael Church. We did not get anywhere near the church, which was built by the Jesuits during 1725-1748 on the foundations of the Ottoman era Kasım Paşa Mosque.

Circling back to where we entered the citadel, we passed the grey and white striped building of the Franciscan Monastery of the Holy Cross. As we continued along some of the back streets, Helena pointed out houses with bullet and/or shrapnel damage.

All too soon, we were back on the bus for the ride back to Vukovar for the last stop of our tour.

Thus far we’ve not had the promised free time in either Bilje or Osijek. I wonder if we’ll get any time on our own in Vukovar?Read more