Falkland Islands Murrell River

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  • Day 11

    Baia Yorke

    February 14, 2024 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    A Baía de Yorke é um excelente local para se avistar os pinguins em seu habitat sem perturba-los. No local também pode-se observar leões marinhos e tres diferentes tipos de pinguins, incluindo o pinguim rei.Read more

  • Day 44

    Port Stanley Falkland Islands

    December 23, 2023 in Falkland Islands ⋅ 🌬 9 °C

    Heute haben wir in Port Stanley auf den Falkland Inseln (britisches Überseegebiet) Halt gemacht. Da die Hafeneinfahrt zu klein/eng für unser Schiff ist, wurden wir mit den Rettungsbooten „getendert“, also vom Schiff in die Stadt gebracht, von wo aus wir auf die Wanderung zu Gipsy Cove gegangen sind. Wir waren ca. 5,5h unterwegs. Vorbei am Schiffswrack „Lady Elisabeth“ haben wir am Strand viele Pinguine beobachtet. Es war super stürmisch 🌬️.Read more

  • Day 52

    Falkland Islands (2)

    March 7 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Enjoyed walking in Port Stanley.
    How could I leave without buying a penguin cap.
    ポートスタンレーでの散歩を楽しみました。
    ペンギンの帽子を買わずに帰るなんて無理でした。

  • Day 9

    Plan B+ - Kidney Cove

    February 4 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Well the weather is moving eastwards from us but still the centre is before South Georgia with waves 5-6 metres so we stayed until midday at the Falklands before setting sail after lunch expecting to have some rougher seas over the next 36 - 48 hours.
    So we spent the morning at Kidney Cove - plenty of Gentoo and Magellanic penguins plus a couple more King penguins.
    The procedure for getting on the zodiacs to land is very slick - the "mudroom" is at the stern with our gear in personal lockers - wet weather gear and muck boots which we have to dip in disinfectant before and after landing. Also we keep 5m minimum from wildlife and we don't kneel, sit or put bags etc on the ground. Avian flu has reached Antarctica and has jumped from birds to mammals causing widespread wildlife deaths recently which is very sad.
    On board we have lectures every day about wildlife, photography, geology etc. Food is fantastic - both buffet and a la carte with two restaurants. And I found a guitar on board! So plenty to keep us amused for the next 2 days before reaching landfall again.
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  • Day 7

    Falkland Islands

    February 2 in Falkland Islands ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    We spent a full day and night steaming from Ushuaia to the Falkland Islands. First confirmed sighting was in 1592 and it was a base for whalers, sealers and penguin hunters over the years until in 1833 Britain claimed sovereignty (as they did). It has one settlement Stanley and continues to be a self governing Overseas Territory of the United Kingdom despite the attempted invasion by Argentina in 1982 which Maggie Thatcher put an end to (and consequently has a memorial dedicated to her in the main street). It is mainly a sheep farming economy (there are ~ 550,000 sheep on the islands - 125 per human) and now also includes tourism and sale of fishing licences (there is currently a small fleet of Taiwanese longline squid trawlers here).
    It is a rather windswept and bleak looking place but the main reason we came was to see the Magellanic penguins which we won't see after this. That and a meal of traditional British fish and chips and warm flat ale in the hotel! We got to test out our waterproof gear as well with several rain storms.
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  • Day 6

    Stanley, Gypsy Cove and fight with a Sea

    January 7 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    We started the day with a Zodiac shuttle to the jetty in the harbor of Stanley, the capital of the Falkland Islands. With a population of roughly 2,000—just over half of the entire population of this remote corner of the British Empire—Stanley feels like a small, quiet town.

    The harbor was peaceful in the early morning, but that changed quickly! The local “king of the harbor”—a 300+ kg South American sea lion—decided to claim the jetty as his own. With 180 people scheduled to land within the hour, we definitely needed the space back! After a brief standoff and some strategic water hose assistance from the port authority, we managed to reclaim the jetty.

    Our first trip of the day was to Gypsy Cove just outside Stanley, an area recently reopened to the public after the last landmine was removed from the beaches. The cove was stunning, with incredible views of 400-million-year-old sandstone formations and pristine snow-white beaches.

    We spotted an amazing variety of birds, including Magellanic Penguins, Antarctic Terns, Austral Thrushes, Crested Ducks, Flightless Steamer Ducks (ironically, they can’t fly despite the name), and Rock Shags. The highlight of the day, though, was seeing breeding Black-Crowned Night Herons. We observed both their nests with bright blue eggs and their young chicks—rare and truly beautiful birds. The dramatic landscape added to the magic, though it’s hard to capture its true essence in photos (but I’ve done my best!).

    Back in Stanley, we explored the city, visited the little but great museum where impressive stories and great humour mixed well together, and had lunch at a classic British pub. They had one draft beer (a dark ale) and one item on the menu: fish and chips. It was as traditionally British—and as disappointing—as expected (though my dear Welsh colleague Steffan would agree). After an important victory in a game of pool, we wandered through the city, picking up a few books—my favorite type of souvenir, soaked in the mix of Great Britain and the remote islands vibe.

    Walking around Stanley, reminders of the Falklands War from 42 years ago are still visible. The scars remain fresh for the local British citizens, and the sentiment toward their Argentinian neighbors is noticeably cold, even today.

    In the afternoon, we returned to the vessel and began our 2.5-day journey to South Georgia. The rest of the day was spent preparing for our visit, which involved extensive biosecurity measures. To protect South Georgia’s pristine ecosystem from invasive species, we had to thoroughly clean and vacuum every item of clothing, boots, backpacks, and other gear. It’s a detailed process but entirely worth it.

    Dinner with Steffan and the captain wrapped up the day. I forgot to take pictures of the meal, but let’s just say the food on this trip is so good that I’m definitely gaining weight!
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  • Day 18

    Falkland Islands 🇫🇰 - Penguin Paradise

    December 14, 2024 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After our Antarctic adventure and a surprisingly smooth Drake Passage crossing (yes, it happened twice for us!), we arrived at the Falkland Islands – greeted by clear skies and sunshine. No rain, no wind, just perfect weather. It’s not what the Falklands are known for, but we weren’t complaining. Honestly, we didn’t expect the islands to even come close to Antarctica, but we were pleasantly proven wrong.

    We hopped off the ship via water taxi and decided to hike to Gypsy Cove. Originally, we’d dreamed of heading to Volunteer Point to see the famous king penguins, but most of the tours were sold out and cost usually around £160 per person (~190€) or if you feel like overpaying $660 (~636€) with the cruise excursion team, that dream stayed a dream. So, Gypsy Cove became Plan B.

    One thing to note about the Falklands: no public Wi-Fi. At all. Even restaurants and cafés are off the grid. The tourist info center informed us that buses to Gypsy Cove (£20 per person) wouldn’t run until 9:30 a.m., and since we are Germans and we’d landed bright and early at 8:00 a.m., we thought, “Why not walk the 12 kilometers along the coast instead?”

    Best decision ever. Just a few kilometers in, we spotted some Magellanic penguins chilling only a few meters away. 🐧 Nothing like a close encounter with penguins to keep your spirits high.

    By the time we reached Gypsy Cove, we were greeted by a picture-perfect scene: soft white sand, penguins waddling around, and dolphins leaping in the waves.

    Then came the unexpected highlight. On our way along Yorke Bay, we overheard some hikers talking about king penguins spotted nearby. Naturally, we had to check it out. After another 30 minutes of walking, we arrived behind the dunes to find colonies of gentoo penguins with their fluffy babies – and three stunning king penguins, including one awkward teenager still losing its baby feathers. It was an incredible moment, one we hadn’t even planned for.

    By the end of the day, our watch told the full story: 36,000 steps, or about 25 kilometers. Enough said, we hit the buffet that evening with zero shame (and maybe went back for seconds). 🙃

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    Nach unserem Antarktis-Abenteuer und einer erstaunlich ruhigen Rückfahrt durch die Drake-Passage erreichten wir die Falkland-Inseln – bei strahlendem Sonnenschein! Kein Regen, kein Wind – dafür sind die Falklands ja eigentlich bekannt. Stattdessen begrüßte uns perfektes Wetter. 🥰 Wir hätten nicht gedacht, dass die Inseln an die Antarktis anknüpfen können, aber wir wurden im positiven Sinne vom Gegenteil überzeugt!

    Mit einem Wassertaxi ging es an Land, wo wir eine „kleine Wanderung“ zur Gypsy Cove planten. Die Tour zum Volunteer Point mit den Königspinguinen waren größtenteils ausgebucht und mit £160 pro Person (190€) leider etwas zu viel für unser Budget. Wenn man zu viel Geld übrig hat, kann man das gleiche auch direkt auf dem Schiff für $660 (~636€) buchen. 🙃💸

    Auf den Falkland Inseln gibt es kein öffentliches WLAN und auch die Restaurants und Cafés bieten keinen Hotspot an. Bei der Touristeninformation haben wir die Info bekommen, dass die Busse (20 britische Pfund) erst ab 9:30 Uhr fahren. Da wir mit 8 Uhr recht früh dran waren und wir es als Deutsche ja nicht anders gewohnt sind, entschieden wir uns, die 12 Kilometer zur Gypsy Cove einfach entlang der Küste zu laufen. Dafür wurden wir auch mehr als belohnt, da uns unterwegs bereits ein paar Magellan-Pinguine aus wenigen Metern Entfernung begegneten. 🐧🥰

    An der Gypsy Cove angekommen, wurden wir mit einer Kulisse wie aus dem Bilderbuch belohnt: ein strahlend weißer Sandstrand, eine Pinguinkolonie direkt vor uns, und im Meer sprangen Delfine. Einfach Traum!

    Doch das war noch nicht alles: Auf dem Weg weiter zur Yorke Bay hörten wir von anderen Wanderern, dass dort Königspinguine gesichtet wurden. Nach einer halben Stunde erreichten wir das Highlight des Tages hinter den Dünen: mehrere Kolonien von Pinguinen mit ihren flauschigen Babys und – tatsächlich – drei majestätische Königspinguine u.a. ein Teenage Königspinguin, der noch seine Babyfedern verliert. Aber die Bilder sprechen für sich...

    Am Ende des Tages hatten wir 36.000 Schritte (25 Kilometer) auf der Uhr. Das Buffet wurde an dem Abend nicht nur einmal aufgesucht. 🫠🤤
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  • Day 13

    Stanley - Falkland Isles

    March 6, 2024 in Falkland Islands ⋅ 🌬 7 °C

    Arriving at Stanley, we have a guided walking tour at lunchtime, otherwise free time to explore the town and try some local walks. Well the guided walk didn’t happen, no guide available for our time slot, so told we could join another one - next one in an hour or any up until 4pm ! So we did the “walk” ourselves. Basically Stanley has one long road that runs parallel to the sea and most things are on that. The first houses you see make you think you could be in Newton Abbot, Jubilee Villas is a typical Victorian terrace of four houses, a short walk further on is the cathedral and the whale bone arch. We next went to the Maritime museum, this has some old room settings including one of the British Antarctic huts, similar to the one we saw at Damoy point. The post office still has the old red style phone boxes outside, but were told they no longer work. Further along is the Governor’s Mansion and a number of memorials, commemorating the 1982 war, the World Wars and one specifically to the marines who apparently helped in the original establishment of the colony. In Victory Gardens there is part of the mizzen mast of Brunel’s SS Great Britain, which was abandoned here for many years before being taken back to Bristol and restored. Back passed the jetty in the other direction is the Cross of Sacrifice and the cemetery, the cemetery is part local and part war graves, looking at some of the early graves you see how hard life must have originally been as 50 to 60 appeared a good age. Whilst on the walk we saw a number of geese, believe the ruddy headed variety and black-browned Albatross flying overhead, supposed to be rockhopper penguins but didn’t spot any of those. But we are around the Falklands for the next couple of days so perhaps we are in the more remote areas. Too many pictures today have uploaded some for the sights mentioned.
    Across the bay from Stanley, laid out in white stone are the names of some of the old naval Antarctic and Falklands protection vessels, Karen’s father - Roy, served on the Protector in the mid 50s down here in the South Atlantic.
    Trivia facts: Karen recorded 13000 steps I recorded 10000, Karen walked 7.2km I walked 7.4km.
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  • Day 35

    Falkland Island

    February 14, 2024 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Zurück von Elephant Island ankern wir heute vor Falkland Island. Bei den Argentiniern wird sie, auch nach dem verlorenen Falkland Krieg, immer noch die Islas Malvinas genannt.
    Die Inselgruppe liegt sehr isoliert, sodass auch Charles Darwin unter anderem hier (1833) seine Forschungen betrieb.

    Es war wieder mal ein herrlicher Tag und endlich, endlich konnten wir Pinguine aus nächster Nähe beobachten. Auf der Insel leben fünf verschiedene Pinguin Arten. Mit einem selbstgebuchten Ausflug besuchten wir die York Bay und entdeckten Königspinguine, Maggellan Pinguine und Esel Pinguine. Wir waren restlos begeistert von den Tieren und der außergewöhnlichen Lanfschaft. Spannend war es mit anzusehen, wie ein Seelöwen und mehrere Delphine die Pinguine jagten.
    Die Falklands waren unsere letzte Gelegenheit diese wirklich außergewöhnliche Natur zu genießen, bevor wir uns auf den Rückweg nach Buenos Aires aufmachten - was für ein Glück!
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  • Day 13

    A few more from Faukland

    January 29, 2024 in Falkland Islands ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    I was so psyched to show the penguin pics that I forgot to share the others I took.
    Our day started with an hour long wait in the dining room to get access to go ashore. Luckily we had a great couple next to us, who ironically lived in Naperville the same time we lived in Downers Grove, and now live an hour away from me in Florida. Us three ladies used that hour to plan a more Systematic way they could get us to shore. It was finally our turn and we crammed 100 people into a glorified lifeboat for a 30 minute ride into Stanley. But wow... Once we got out it was totally worth it! Sea breeze, bright cobalt water, and delicious pastries by the shore.
    We were looking out at a dock when we noticed what we thought was a dog hanging out. It wasn't... It was a seal! Apparently he's a teenager and spends his day lying around on the dock, waiting for his mom to bring him fish.
    We had an interesting tour guide on the way to the penguin colony. Did you know the are exactly 4.5 doctors in the Falklands and they ship patients to England to have knee and hip replacements (fully paid for by the government). The county's medical director is freshly graduated. They offered her the position and she said she didn't have any experience yet. But they were certain she was the right for so she took the position. Then covid happened. Can you imagine what that was like for her?
    Kids get traveling teachers for their education. The teacher rotates between farms and spends 2 weeks with a family before moving to the next one. In between visits, they have classes by radio or phone. Then, from 11-15, all kids are required to come to town for boarding school.
    If they want to go to college and if they qualify, the government pays for their tuition and gives spending money. 75% of students return back to the islands after graduation.
    Oh... And apparently you can eat penguin. Here are some recipes. I don't recommend you so that, though. They are too cute, and are wicked oily!!
    Currently sitting on the balcony watching Whales spout and dive and heading to Argentina.
    Tomorrow... Sea lions!
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