France Puerto del Portalet

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  • Day 23–24

    23. Tag: Wanderung durch den Schnee

    April 16 in France ⋅ 🌫 -2 °C

    Morgens arbeite ich noch, aber dann zieht es uns mittags auf einen Pass, der Spanien und Frankreich verbindet. Auf 2000 Metern Höhe wandern wir im Schnee, die Luft ist frisch und klar. Das Wetter hält fast die gesamte Wanderung und erst, als wir zurück sind, überrascht uns ein kurzer Schneesturm. Da es sehr kalt ist, beschließen wir, zum Schlafen ein Stück den Berg hinunterzufahren. Unser Lager schlagen wir dieses Mal direkt an einem Stausee auf.Read more

  • Day 10

    The last footprint, for this trip.

    May 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    It’s the morning after our climb to Col du Somport. And it seems like the right time to close this ‘trip’ with a final ‘footprint’. (That’s Finding Penguins lingo).

    Now back on the French side of the mountains, we are making our way ‘home’ to Lectoure via two days walking to Oloron Saint Marie, then a bus to Pau for an overnight stay with friends and then a couple of short train journeys to have us home on Thursday.

    This has been our first multi day hike since we walked the Camino Piemont des Pyrénées a little over a year ago. We are planning a much longer walk later this year, so we were keen to see how we’d manage, carrying our full packs over tough terrain. Happy to report that all went well.

    We thoroughly enjoyed the Camino Baztan in Pays Basque, a wonderful path despite the rain and floods! And our return to the Aragones Way to visit Jaca, the Monasteries San Juan de la Peña, and make the two day climb to the Col via Canfranc pueblo and Canfranc Estacion. It turned out to be a great combination - such contrast, entirely different yet equally beautiful.

    Until next time. ❤️

    Jenny and The French
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  • Day 9

    Day 9 - Canfranc to Somport, 12 kms

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    After a most enjoyable stay at the Elias Valina Albergue de Peregrinos in Canfranc peublo, we farewelled our lovely hospitaleros Adelina and Sue. They are friends from San Francisco, volunteering together at the albergue for two weeks.

    Our destination today was the small village of Urdos in France, about 24 kms away, with just the matter of some mountains in between. You never know how the weather will be that far up, and I had a swollen ankle that was niggling, so we decided to take it one stage at a time - first to Canfranc Estacion and then to the halfway and highest point, the Col du Somport on thé border of Spain and France. There are a couple of buses a day from both, so we had options.

    Perfect walking weather again this morning. Cold … but that’s what you want when the only way is up. We arrived in Canfranc Estacion which was alive with hikers and tourists. This part of the Pyrenees is a picturesque and popular ski resort in winter and a hikers’ paradise all year around.

    Canfranc Estacion is named for its famous landmark, Canfranc station. Recently re-opened as a luxury hotel, this extraordinary building has a fascinating history and more than a touch of mystery including tales of espionage. The French and I first saw Canfranc Estacion in 2016 when waking the Arles / Aragones camino. Even in its abandoned state, it was a mesmerising structure. There was talk then of plans to bring it back to its former glory. More than three years later, when walking the Aragones with my friend and Camino buddy Jill, we saw that work was underway. And now today we were able to see the result of the restoration. How wonderful that this magnificent building has been restored to such a high standard and given a new life.

    It was time to continue. We had 6 kms to go until we reached the Col and it would be the steepest part of our climb. We had not yet decided whether to tackle the 12 km descent or take the bus. Hate those decisions. After two hours, we reached the Col. It had been a tough climb but our surroundings were so glorious that it was exhilarating rather than exhausting.

    At the top of the mountain, we met a Belgian pilgrim who told us that the path down to Urdos was wet and slippery and the 12 kms would likely take us around 4 hours. There was a cafe on the top of the Col. The sun was shining, the view magnificent. It was 1 pm, we were hungry and a bus would leave at 2.30. Turned out to be a very easy decision. The French and the Belgian and I enjoyed a great lunch, with a spectacular view and happily boarded the bus at 2.30 for a scenic if a little scary ride down the mountains to Urdos.

    What a day! 😎
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  • Day 15

    Artouste

    September 17, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Leider hat das Wasser von Lourdes die hartnäckige Erkältung von Arnaud nicht geheilt. So eine Enttäuschung 😉.
    Wir befinden uns heute in Artouste, um wieder mal zu Biken, wie langweilig… An der Kasse angekommen, wollten Sie uns kein Billet für Nils verkaufen, er wäre zu jung. Nach ein Paar Abklärungen mit dem Manager der Station kriegen wir unsere Billets und dürfen auf die Trails.
    Neben dem Biken, geniessen wir die schöne Bergwelt und die Aussicht auf den berühmten Pic du Midi d‘Ossau.
    Wir sind in der Region des Käses, insbesondere des Schafkäses angekommen. In der Talstation bietet das Restaurant sogar Raclette und Fondue an! Also das können wir uns nicht entgehen lassen ✌️.
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  • Day 9–12

    Berghütte von Lescun

    June 19, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Erstes Mal mit LKW gefahren, Spanier dazu auch noch, also mit 80km/h Kilometer geschrubbt, bis Pau und ab in die Berge nach Lescun. Dort sei beschriebenes Ferienhaus von toulouser Freunden. Drei Nächte Hüttenleben mit Kuhglocken genossen.Read more

  • Day 22

    We conquer our fears and the mountains

    May 16, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    After a peaceful nights sleep by a lake we are revived and ready to tackle the steep climb and the mountain pass into Spain. 🇪🇸 Excited 😝 is an understatement!
    We head off and after a very short time come across an open area too stunning a sight for us not to stop and explore. With snow capped mountains on all sides there’s a fast but shallow river flowing through immense boulders of rock that at some time you can imagine having tumbled from up high. Bliss of course absolutely has to dip her toes in the glacial ice blue water, seemingly completely oblivious to the freezing temperature of it.
    On we go in the direction of the summits, climbing up and up getting closer and closer to the snowy peaks. Finally we reach a car park on the mountain pass just before the border of Spain. Bliss was ecstatic to discover the snow when we got out of Ivy and immediately rolled around in it before getting up and jumping, leaping and running around like a puppy. It’s just lovely to see her so very happy, being able to bring her to a place where you can tell she feels so completely at home 😊
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  • Day 21

    Return to the mountains

    May 15, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    After a slow start we got going to the aire to replenish our batteries and our water tank. We had to wait until 3pm before we could charge the batteries so in the meantime while we waited we went for a walk to the local village. Bliss enjoyed a splash in a lovely little river that we found and on the way back to the van I visited a small shop where I bought some bread and some bacon which went well with eggs for our brunch.
    We took advantage of the free water and even gave Ivy a good wash inside and out as she had got pretty mucky over the last few days. Finally we were all done with our chores and we headed back out to conquer our fears and the mountain.
    The drive was incredible, again it was pretty extreme and scary but we made it all the way up to the lake that we had chosen to stay beside. Stunning is all I can say...high up in the clouds for the night. On getting out of the van Bliss was even more excited and animated than usual, this is her kind of place, so wild and untamed.
    Tomorrow we cross the border into Spain 🇪🇸. Another first for us all.
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  • Day 19

    Can you have too much adventure? - YES

    May 13, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Excited and nervous for the next leg of our journey that is going to take us to the mountains! 😁😬
    The terrain gradually changes and is becoming more hilly as we make our way, suddenly we breach the brow of a hill and there before us in the distance is a huge range of snow capped mountains 🏔️ stretching from east to west in our line of vision. Darren was looking at his phone at the time so didn’t immediately see it until I, calmly as I could, said “look at that!”
    He looked up and was clearly shocked “OH MY GOSH” he exclaimed 😂 ( or choice words to that effect)
    We needed some supplies so we found a Lidl and right next to it a McDonald’s. Thought we’d see if it’s any better here but no! Still junk.
    We were going to go to Lidl together but as we were going in I thought better check if Bliss has settled down in the van okay... checking the camera she was giving it her all... howling like her life depended on it! So Darren had to go back to the van while I did the shopping. Unfortunately I didn’t have a list as I’d left my phone in the van so the shopping took forever. By the time I got back to the van an hour later I was stressed right out and so was Darren because I’d been ages. 😳. A rare mini domestic ensues as we argue about who should do the shopping until the pointlessness’s of it all gives way to the resignation it’ll have to be me. Can you imagine the food choices Darren might make? Octopus with strawberries and gravy anyone? 😂
    We continued on our way heading up the mountain, up, up, and up we went getting steeper and winding along narrow roads through tiny hamlets that were barely wider than Ivy. Switch backs and death drops and huge rock faces looming over us all the way up. No barriers, loose rocks waiting to crush (or so it seemed) Already feeling a bit stressed out from the shopping trip this was definitely getting out of our comfort zones, it was all becoming a bit much. Overwhelmed by the adrenaline rush of it all. The views all around us were otherworldly like nothing we’ve ever experienced before so close up, and feeling so responsible for all of our lives I was genuinely quite scared. 😱
    I was worried about how Ivy was going to cope with climbing such extreme hills but I needn’t have as she was a real trouper, she did get a little warm but she coped so well with the really steep and long climb.
    We reached a small plateau which was going to be our stop for the night and tried to take a deep breath to calm down from all the excitement. We looked at the weather forecast for the night, it was predicting thunderstorms and heavy rain! Uhoh 😟 Thinking about how very exposed Ivy was, and the lack of any phone signal in this remote location we decided that we should move somewhere safer for the night. Yes OK... we chickened out!! 😂
    It probably didn’t help that there was literally a huge real life vulture circling above our precarious choice of home for the night.
    I’m sure we would probably have been absolutely fine but after having moved down the mountain to lower ground I didn’t regret our decision especially when the stormy weather did finally hit us. Even at this lower altitude and sheltered position the van was buffeted. I don’t think we’d have slept much if we’d been up that mountain in the storm and I’d have had many pairs of pants to wash today had we survived.
    At the end of the day, this is all new to us, we’ve lead quite sheltered lives on the sleepy Isle of Wight. I think we can forgive ourselves for bottling out this time while we become acclimatised to this more adventurous way of life x
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  • Day 57

    Efterår igen, Col d'Aubisque

    October 30, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Vi var ellers klar i morges til en vandretur, og kørte op til Col de Tente, hvorfra man kan vandre til Breche de Roland og flere 3000 meter toppe. Men regnvejret, der har hærget i Spanien de sidste dage, sendte en lille snert op over Pyrenæerne og ned til os med vindstød og regnbyger. Da der samtidig jo ligger sne fra ca 2.200 meters højde, var det lidt for meget af det gode, at binde an med en høj top i stejlt terræn. Det var sjovt den anden dag, til Pic du Midi de Bigorre, hvor vi havde en fast grusvej det meste af vejen op, men i dyb sne og stejlt terræn med bare vandrestøvler må vi nok indrømme, at vi er et par uger for sent på den i år, til de højeste toppe her i Pyrenæerne.

    Så vi spiste vores madpakke til skiftende sol og kraftige regnbyger under skiliften ved Station de Gavarnie-Gedre (inde i Passepartout), og kørte så nedad igen mod Pierrefitte, hvor vi drejede mod vest, og fortsatte nu vores rejse af små veje og bjergpas på langs af Pyrenæerne mod vest. Det er en rigtig fin rute med en autocamper, for ligeså snart man kommer væk fra de nord-syd gående dale og kører øst-vest, kommer man gennem flotte landskaber og hyggelige landsbyer. Sådan har det været lige siden vi startede ude ved kysten, og selvom det altid gør lidt ondt at køre ned fra de højeste bjerge, så håber vi på et par dage endnu i bakket terræn!

    Efter et lille stop i landsbyen Aucun (der betyder: “Ingen”), og den ret spektakulære strækning mellem Col Soulor og Col d'Aubisque, endte vi så på en parkering i det tredje pas på under en uge i tæt tåge, med håbet om opklaring i morgen?!
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  • Day 61

    Pyrenäen

    October 16, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌫 12 °C

    Auf nach Spanien durch die Pyrenäen. Ich habe einen richtig tollen Spot für die Nacht gefunden und hatte einen super Spaziergang bis in den komplett verlassenen Skiort Fabregès. Wobei Talstation trifft es eher als Ort (2 Hotels und ein Restaurant).Read more

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