France Urepel

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  • Day 15

    Our first “stroll” along the Camino

    May 6 in France ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Today we had a dress rehearsal and walked without our packs, 800 metres above sea level, up the Pyrenees and then returned to SJPDP. A total or 17.3 kms of hard walking and mind battles…”Can I do this? Why am I doing this? Why didn’t someone talk me out of this?”

    We made it!

    There was sleet, heat, cold, sheep dung, slugs, mud, rocks (in my head), a horse that looked dead, Italians, Dutch, English, dogs, cats and the list goes on! We soldiered on and made it up the mountain for lunch at a cosy Albergue that was like a mirage. We were so happy when we made it and thoroughly enjoyed the hot chocolate we indulged in when we reached our peak.

    Tomorrow, we set off on a slightly different route, with our packs, a little wiser after today, a little stronger and ready for whatever comes our way.
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  • Day 14–16

    The Camino Provides

    May 5 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we travelled from Bordeaux to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (SJPDP). The train trip was relaxing and being good tourists in France, we’d bought baguettes for our lunch. We were excited to finally be getting to the town where we start our Camino, and despite our train trip from Bayonne to SJPDP being replaced by a bus, we were all in high spirit.

    SJPDP is a beautiful town. It far exceeded my expectation and the buzz of pilgrims arriving from all over the world is intoxicating. We walked from the train station with a young Swedish girl who was travelling alone. She was super friendly and was happy to have someone to walk with, as were we.

    First things first was to visit the Pilgrims office to register (however we had already done this in Bordeaux) and get some information on the walk. We joined the long queue and chatted enthusiastically with the other pilgrims. Naturally there were other Australians in the queue, including a very independent, interesting woman from Cloncurry, travelling solo.

    After having a coffee to warm up (it’s cold here), we headed to our accomodation, a short 10 minutes walk from the centre. How happy we now are with the simple things we take for granted. Our home for two days is more spacious than our apartment in Bordeaux. We have both a dishwasher AND a washing machine! Sheer luxury!

    We capped off the day with a pilgrim’s meal at a nearby bistro. Chicken and mashed potato…it was exactly what we needed. The Camino provided a perfect start for us.
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  • Day 1

    Camino D1 St Jean de Pied de Port

    May 3 in France ⋅ 🌩️ 24 °C

    Left @6am, many thanks to Nigel of Wards Taxi's direct to Brussels Midi for the Eurostar to Paris, Uber to Montparnasse, drove past Notre Dame, a quick breakfast prior to boarding the train to Bayonne, finally a coach transfer to SJPP, safe arrival @3pm. Perfect journey, no stress. Evening drinks & dinner by the river, perfect with some local beer and fresh fish. Fab start🙏.Read more

  • Day 27

    Pilger und Pyrenäen

    May 1 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    „Und ist der Fuß auch noch so klein, so kann er doch ein Pilger sein“ (Reiner)
    Ab Puerta de la Reina kreuzten wir immer mal wieder den Pilgerweg. Den Plan, mal selbst nach Santiago zu laufen, habe ich verworfen. Pilger überall und in allen Zuständen. Es ist schön, dass Santiago so viele Leute auf die Füße bringt, die ohne diesen Mythos wahrscheinlich niemals eine längere Wanderung unternehmen würden. Aber es geht zu wie auf einer Ameisenstrasse. Das ist nichts für mich. Die Aussicht, am Ausgangspunkt des Camino Frances zu übernachten, in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, hat mich dennoch gereizt.
    Es war schon nach 11.00 Uhr, als wir nach einem ausgiebigen Frühstück mit Huevos Fritos aus der Stadt rollten. Um unnötige Strecke und Höhenmeter zu vermeiden nahmen wir einfach die Straße. Verkehr OK, viele Rennradfahrer und natürlich Pilger. Die Dörfer sind alle rausgeputzt, hohe Steinhäuser, ein ganz eigener Charakter. Nach gut 1000 Höhenmetern waren wir schon durch, passierten wehmütig die spanisch- französische Grenze und rollten abends in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port ein. Ich hatte mir das romantisch vorgestellt. So quasi am Lagerfeuer mit lauter aufgeregten Menschen, kurz vor Beginn ihres Caminos. Als Reiner vor 30 Jahren mal da war, war er fast allein. Jetzt wälzen sich nicht nur Pilger, sondern auch sonstige Touristen durch die Gassen. An jeder Herberge hing ein Schild: Complet. Es gab in der ganzen Stadt tatsächlich kein einziges freies Zimmer. Eine nette Herbergsmutter hängte sich ans Telefon und organisierte ein Hotel 5 km entfernt in einem kleinen Dorf hinter sieben Bergen bei den sieben Zwergen. Dort saßen wir dann auf der Terrasse, gegenüber warteten die Schafe in den Stall gelassen zu werden, die Sonne verschwand hinter den Bergen, wir genossen ein vorzügliches Menü und der ganze Trubel war weit, weit weg.
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  • Day 5

    Paris to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

    April 30 in France ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today had me thinking “surely nothing else can go wrong” way too many times. Our first train broke down, then on our second train there was a “problem at the station” which caused all the city trains to stop. We managed to uber and make it to our country train with minutes to spare. Are you thinking, that should be the end of the disasters right? You’d be wrong! There was a fire near the tracks so the train operator had to get out AND WALK the track to make sure we could get through (okay his day might be worse than ours). This made us 30 minutes late for our final train causing us to miss it and have to catch the only bus left.

    Despite all the stress we still managed to have a lot of laughs, play cards and had a couple of beers with new friends Susan and George.
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  • Day 4

    Day 2 - I walked over the Pyrenees

    April 29 in France ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Orisson to Burguete Auritz
    22.5km
    Refuge Orisson to Burguete-Auritz
    Woke up early enough to see the sun rise, and to join the Pilgrims breakfast at 7am sharp. The alburgue hosts were pretty clear about their timings and expectations, but they are experienced and it worked perfectly.
    On the road by 7.30 in windy conditions with strong gusts, but skies were blue again for another stunning day. The views just got better and better as I climbed.
    I loved the climb though, not too strenuous although there were some steep bits. Walking through the beech forest out of the wind was great.
    The Lepoeder high point was a real box-tick moment, everything from here is down, and the views over the Navarre valley and seeing my destination was great.
    Roncesvalles was a good place for a deserved Sangria with my lunch sandwich, and a look around the pilgrim complex, before starting the last few km to the hotel.
    Moment of the day undoubtedly was conquering the Pyrenees - I have been planning for a long time and now can say that “I walked over the Pyrenees”. Objective #1 well and truly achieved.
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  • Day 3

    Day 1 - The first step

    April 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    St Jean Pied Du Port to Refuge Orisson
    8.2km
    Bags got collected from the Air BnB and I bought some rations at the local store, then off to the starting line. 800km is about 1 million steps, so the first step through the Porte d’Espagne was memorable. My great trek has started!
    Even though town was quiet with not too many pilgrims around, a snaking line of bright colours soon settled into a rhythm along the path.
    Feeling really grateful to have this opportunity and blessing, feeling nervous and excited about what’s to come, feeling uncertain about my ability to complete, and feeling curious about all the wonderful sights, sounds, people and experiences over the coming days.
    Moments of the day - The first step of 1 million, seeing the mist in the valley of the Pyrenees foothills, and watching the souring eagles so close I could hear the wind passing over their wings.
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  • Day 4

    St. Jean Pied de Port to Borda

    April 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    Well, the day I feared most was not as hard as I feared, thanks in large part to Brian Paysour's hard work preparing me. On my way to the Pilgrims' Gate and Bridge, I paused again in the Cathedral to see Jesus' arms open in welcome. On the bridge, I looked back to see Mary and Jesus above blessing my journey. And I was on my way!

    I walked alone most of the day so I could set my own pace and enjoy the scenery, but I saw many of the same people over and over as our paths criss-crossed. A trio from Minneapolis were especially friendly.

    As the fog burned away, the sun shone relentlessly. Luckily it was only in the lower 70s and there was a nice breeze, because the way went straight up all day without a moment's rest. Much of the path was along a roadway, but part went up a very muddy and wet rocky path. I took frequent pauses to take in God's handiwork and let my heart rate come down. I kept coming back to the phrase from Morning Prayer, "his hands have molded the dry land." The only sounds were the breeze in the trees, the songs of birds, the bleating of distant sheep as they shook their cowbells, and the occasional footsteps of fellow pilgrims. True bliss.

    As I tired, I kept thinking of something Ashby Blakely quotes at funerals: "to be dead to the body is to be alive to God." And I get his point, as it pertains to physical death. But as I began to feel the effort and the abilities my body was unlocking that were new to me, I felt that the more alive I became in the body, the more alive I became to the God who created me to move and adapt in this way. Quite an experience.

    When I got to Borda, the last albergue before Roncesvalles some seventeen km further, I sat with a group of four other women to wait for them to open so I could beg for a last-minute room. Would you believe that of the five of us THREE were Episcopal priests on sabbatical! What are the chances?!

    There were no beds to be begged at Borda, so I got a ride the 8km back down to St. Jean for another night in the charming Albergue I stayed in last night. In the morning I'll ride back up to Borda and walk from there back down the Pyranees to Roncesvalles, finally crossing into Spain. For now, good night. I think I'll sleep well!

    Steps: 17,362
    Active minutes: 364
    Distance: 7.32 miles
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  • Day 3

    St. Jean Pied de Port

    April 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I had an amazing night's sleep and a fabulous breakfast before getting on the bus to St. Jean Pied de Port, the official starting point for the Camino Frances. I couldn't stop the tears as we headed up the mountain and I realized this was really, really happening. After years of dreaming and praying, my Camino was finally starting.

    I checked in at the Pilgrims' Office and received my first official stamp of the journey. Then I explored the town, going down to the river Nive and taking a picture of the Pilgrims' Bridge over which I'll depart in the morning. I made my way to the Cathedral de Notre Dame, a beautiful Gothic Church. The main altar and stained glass were stunning. I was so moved by the side altar with the tabernacle (aumbry) and lit candle signifying the presence of bead and wine blessed at Easter that I knelt and prayed for a while, thanking God for this opportunity and asking him to be with me. Then I moved to the other side chapel, with it's statue of Mary holding Jesus with his arms open wide in welcome. I was reminded of this morning's reading, "although the doors of the room were locked, Jesus came and stood among them." Nothing can stop God's presence. I lit a candle for all of you, praying for so many of you by name.

    I'm staying in a charming albergue called La Lievre at Le Tortue, the Hair and the Tortoise. All over are reminders not to hurry but to enjoy the journey. The hosts Cat and Manu are so welcoming. I'm in a room with two other women and one man. Tonight we'll all share a meal together over one big table, no doubt getting to know one another.

    One checked in, I went to explore the Citadel, built in the 14th Century as an outpost to protect France from Spanish invasion. Now it's an historic landmark and home to a school. The views over St. Jean are stunning and well worth the climb (the stairs at Your Best Body got nothin' on these steep stone stairs!).

    I found a charming bar with WiFi and worshipped with Incarnation over a glass of the dry rose this region is known for. A great day!

    Steps: 9,525 (not bad for a rest day!)
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  • Day 5

    St Jean (1st day of walk)

    April 25 in France ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Yesterday we arrived in St. John pied de port to begin our walk our first hostel was Beilari, 18 people from England, Australia, Netherlands, Scotland, America..We all sat at a communal meal as one big family.. people laughed and cried it was just wonderful..
    They woke us up the next morning by playing angelic music!! Then we had breakfast and we were on our way up the Pyrenees mountain.. we only did five miles today but it was straight up.. I was so glad to get to my hostel Orisson.. This hostel is much larger than last night, but we are having a communal meal tonight..what I love about these places, lights out at 10 o’clock.. LOL
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