Le Mas-d’Azil

We awoke to a peaceful, cloudy morning at our Warmshowers in Esparros, surrounded by the calm of the countryside, a glimpse of the Pyrenees from our bedroom window, and the welcoming warmth of Kevin and Aude's home. The air was crisp again, but the inside of their cottage was cozy, filled with the aroma of fresh coffee brewing in the kitchen. We gathered around the kitchen island for breakfast—a simple yet satisfying spread of coffee, homemade muesli, yogurt, and apples freshly picked from the fall trees. The conversation flowed easily, and we felt an undeniable sense of connection and community in this little corner of France. It was one of those warmshower mornings that felt perfect and much too short, making it all the harder to say goodbye when it came time to leave.

Despite the desire to stay forever at Aude and Kevin’s we eventually packed up our bikes and bid Kevin and Aude’s haven in the foothills of the Pyrenees a grateful farewell. Little did we know, the weather ahead would make the day one of our more challenging. As we set off, the skies darkened, and a steady drizzle began to fall. What started as a light shower quickly turned into a discouraging heavier rain, coupled with a relentless headwind that seemed determined to slow us down. The unseasonably cold temperature of about 60°F made the ride even tougher, as we struggled to keep warm with each pedal stroke. At one bicycle trail I saw a French cyclist wearing a facemask to protect himself from the cold weather. The climbs, which would have been a rewarding challenge on a clear day, felt punishing under these conditions, and each ascent was followed by a sketchy, slippery descent into the persentent headwind. The rain made the roads slick, and we had to ride cautiously, our hands numb from the cold, riding the brakes as we navigated the descents.We had been looking forward to this day for its promised beauty—the rolling foothills of the Pyrenees were supposed to offer amazing views, with sweeping vistas and dramatic mountain views. But under the heavy clouds, the scenery was hidden from view, and the once-majestic landscape was reduced to a dim outline behind veils of rain and fog. The cold and wind made it difficult to stop and take pictures, or even to pause for a moment to appreciate where we were. It felt as though the day’s beauty was just out of reach, teasing us from behind the curtain of weather we couldn't escape.

By the end of the day, we were drenched, exhausted, and longing for the warmth and comfort of a place to rest. Though the ride hadn’t gone as we’d imagined, it still left a lasting impression—a reminder that not all rides are easy, but they are all part of the adventure. The tough ridea make the perfect days, even more cherished in our memories. After arriving at our Warmshower in Saint-Girons, we were warmly greeted by Didier at the door. He quickly helped us with our bikes into the garage and invited us inside to warm up by the wood-burning fireplace. The heat was a welcome comfort after a day in the rain. Soon after, his partner Sylvie came home, and she kindly made us some hot tea. Feeling refreshed, we both took long, hot showers before sitting down to a delicious homemade dinner. Dinner started with a hot bowl of pumpkin soup, followed by a hearty potato salad with herring and egg, fresh lettuce, and of course, an assortment of local cheeses. As is common in France, the cheeses were served after the main course, almost as a bridge between the meal and dessert, or tea and coffee. After our late night with Aude and Kevin the night before, we were more than ready for bed by 9 PM. It was a peaceful, relaxing evening, just what we needed to recharge for a predicted rainy day ahead.Read more