France Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

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  • Day 4

    St. Jean Pied de Port to Borda

    April 28 in France ⋅ ☀️ 48 °F

    Well, the day I feared most was not as hard as I feared, thanks in large part to Brian Paysour's hard work preparing me. On my way to the Pilgrims' Gate and Bridge, I paused again in the Cathedral to see Jesus' arms open in welcome. On the bridge, I looked back to see Mary and Jesus above blessing my journey. And I was on my way!

    I walked alone most of the day so I could set my own pace and enjoy the scenery, but I saw many of the same people over and over as our paths criss-crossed. A trio from Minneapolis were especially friendly.

    As the fog burned away, the sun shone relentlessly. Luckily it was only in the lower 70s and there was a nice breeze, because the way went straight up all day without a moment's rest. Much of the path was along a roadway, but part went up a very muddy and wet rocky path. I took frequent pauses to take in God's handiwork and let my heart rate come down. I kept coming back to the phrase from Morning Prayer, "his hands have molded the dry land." The only sounds were the breeze in the trees, the songs of birds, the bleating of distant sheep as they shook their cowbells, and the occasional footsteps of fellow pilgrims. True bliss.

    As I tired, I kept thinking of something Ashby Blakely quotes at funerals: "to be dead to the body is to be alive to God." And I get his point, as it pertains to physical death. But as I began to feel the effort and the abilities my body was unlocking that were new to me, I felt that the more alive I became in the body, the more alive I became to the God who created me to move and adapt in this way. Quite an experience.

    When I got to Borda, the last albergue before Roncesvalles some seventeen km further, I sat with a group of four other women to wait for them to open so I could beg for a last-minute room. Would you believe that of the five of us THREE were Episcopal priests on sabbatical! What are the chances?!

    There were no beds to be begged at Borda, so I got a ride the 8km back down to St. Jean for another night in the charming Albergue I stayed in last night. In the morning I'll ride back up to Borda and walk from there back down the Pyranees to Roncesvalles, finally crossing into Spain. For now, good night. I think I'll sleep well!

    Steps: 17,362
    Active minutes: 364
    Distance: 7.32 miles
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  • Day 3

    St. Jean Pied de Port

    April 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    I had an amazing night's sleep and a fabulous breakfast before getting on the bus to St. Jean Pied de Port, the official starting point for the Camino Frances. I couldn't stop the tears as we headed up the mountain and I realized this was really, really happening. After years of dreaming and praying, my Camino was finally starting.

    I checked in at the Pilgrims' Office and received my first official stamp of the journey. Then I explored the town, going down to the river Nive and taking a picture of the Pilgrims' Bridge over which I'll depart in the morning. I made my way to the Cathedral de Notre Dame, a beautiful Gothic Church. The main altar and stained glass were stunning. I was so moved by the side altar with the tabernacle (aumbry) and lit candle signifying the presence of bead and wine blessed at Easter that I knelt and prayed for a while, thanking God for this opportunity and asking him to be with me. Then I moved to the other side chapel, with it's statue of Mary holding Jesus with his arms open wide in welcome. I was reminded of this morning's reading, "although the doors of the room were locked, Jesus came and stood among them." Nothing can stop God's presence. I lit a candle for all of you, praying for so many of you by name.

    I'm staying in a charming albergue called La Lievre at Le Tortue, the Hair and the Tortoise. All over are reminders not to hurry but to enjoy the journey. The hosts Cat and Manu are so welcoming. I'm in a room with two other women and one man. Tonight we'll all share a meal together over one big table, no doubt getting to know one another.

    One checked in, I went to explore the Citadel, built in the 14th Century as an outpost to protect France from Spanish invasion. Now it's an historic landmark and home to a school. The views over St. Jean are stunning and well worth the climb (the stairs at Your Best Body got nothin' on these steep stone stairs!).

    I found a charming bar with WiFi and worshipped with Incarnation over a glass of the dry rose this region is known for. A great day!

    Steps: 9,525 (not bad for a rest day!)
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  • Day 5

    St Jean (1st day of walk)

    April 25 in France ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Yesterday we arrived in St. John pied de port to begin our walk our first hostel was Beilari, 18 people from England, Australia, Netherlands, Scotland, America..We all sat at a communal meal as one big family.. people laughed and cried it was just wonderful..
    They woke us up the next morning by playing angelic music!! Then we had breakfast and we were on our way up the Pyrenees mountain.. we only did five miles today but it was straight up.. I was so glad to get to my hostel Orisson.. This hostel is much larger than last night, but we are having a communal meal tonight..what I love about these places, lights out at 10 o’clock.. LOL
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  • Day 3

    Day 3 Pamplona/St. Jean Pied de Port

    April 24 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Start of day 3 Thursday April 24th left Pamplona at 10am by bus to St. Jean Pied de Port where i will start my walk. The weather is nice, cool and great for walking.
    Pamplona is a beautiful city. This is where there is the Running of the Bulls in July.
    People are very friendly and even if they didn’t speak English they tried to help. It’s a typical Spanish city with lots of Churches, restaurants squares and monuments very lively and lovely!
    Arrived in St. Jean Pied de Port at 12:00 but can’t check in till 3:00 pm. Met and had coffee with a couple of ladies from Australia. They aren’t staying in the same Albergue as me but Im sure I will see them again.
    It is very pretty here and there are so many pilgrims that are starting their walk tomorrow so I won’t be alone!!! Tonight I will be having dinner with other pilgrims that are also staying here.
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  • Day 4

    1st stop - Orisson,

    April 24 in France ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    The 1st steps of our pilgrimage began at 0645 this morning.
    3 hours and 2200 feet of elevation gain later to a welcome stop for food and coffee at Refuge Orisson.
    Today’s walk was as steep as I think we’ve ever walked for such a long distance- 4823 feet elevation gain over 16 miles.
    It was definitely a test of endurance and will. Thankfully, it was cool and foggy the first 2/3 of it and beautiful, sunny and blue sky the last. Proud to say we made it. I’ve been told todays crossing the Pyrenees is the most arduous of The Way. We will see.
    I dunno though, 9 hours folded up like a taco shell on the flight to Madrid runs a close second .
    Good night!
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  • Day 1

    sanitjean-orissons 8

    April 22 in France ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Sveglia doccia colazione
    Dalle idee all'azione
    Senza indugio o incertezze
    Sono pronta per l'ebrezza!!
    Oggi è dura, la strada è erta
    Piove forte, sono incerta
    Quanti dubbi in un momento
    Ohi la mente, che tormento!!!!Read more

  • Day 1–2

    St Jean Pied de Port

    April 17 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Hola pingüinos, or more accurately, bonjour les pingouins because I’m still in France – just.

    I’m in the village of St Jean Pied de Port in south-west France after having spent 60 hours getting here thanks to a baggage handling problem in Paris and a missed train connection. But, here we are, and I’m sitting over a beer next to the River Nive before setting out on the Camino Santiago, el Camino, tomorrow. The Nive, by the way, is the lowest point on the Camino so it’s all up hill from here.

    St Jean is a beautiful little village and the most popular starting point of the Camino, although many Spanish pilgrims will say that it really starts in Roncesvalles where I’ll be heading tomorrow. St Jean has a long and colourful history that includes Richard the Lionheart, Napoleon, Roland, Charlemagne, and others. Today, the town is buzzing with family groups and a lot of pilgrims who will be setting out tomorrow. On the train in today, there was a large contingent of Koreans who are about to set out and their excitement was palpable.

    I’ll leave you to explore St Jean on-line if you like but it is worth a look and my photographic skills can’t compete with more able artists who can be found.

    While there are many people from all around the world, there are also some friends of mine who will be completing their own Caminos, and some who are just around because I know you like to hear from people like Efren Gonzalez who many of you enjoyed listening to last time. I’ll include a link to Efren’s video of the daily walk for you in each post and here is his first one. It's an overview to whet your appetite.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ux1hAlG9ETA&amp…

    Pete from Sydney is starting out with me tomorrow and, when we reach León in around three weeks time, Catherine and Lorraine from Point Lonsdale, and Vanessa from Sydney will be commencing their Caminos as well. As I’ve explained to many of you who have asked, we don’t walk together all day, every day, because we all walk at a different pace, but we do hook up at the end of each day for a drink and we will tell lies to each other about how great we think we are.

    Regarding my expectations, I’d like to remain open to the possibilities that the universe and the Camino will provide. While that side remains an open book, I do enjoy the scenery, the sights and sounds of nature, living in my head for a month, the food, the culture, and the camaraderie that I will experience along the way. I’m hoping to take more photos this time around on my humble iPhone and I hope you enjoy what we might see together.

    I’ll try to post each evening so that you’ll have something to accompany your morning coffee (for the followers in Oz), but that will all depend on the internet gods and the wifi connections that I will have at each stop.

    Anyway, that’s enough from me, I’ve include a few pics below but hopefully tomorrow will bring new vistas and more faces along The Way.

    Buen Camino
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  • Day 8–9

    Borda to Burguete

    April 14 in France ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    Fighting the elements

    We woke up this morning to an amazing view and a wonderful breakfast.
    But once we started climbing across the Pyrenees, the challenge began.
    We had to ascend around 800 meters and travel 19.7 km to Burguete. The elevation may not seem that much until you actually have to do it with a backpack and strong winds that threatened to throw us off the path several times.
    The sun was shining and the views were surreal, as were portions of the trail. But the wind kept blowing against our faces making it harder and harder.
    We found company along the way and the conversation gave us the strength to push forward.
    The descend was hard on our legs and knees, but arriving at Ronsesvalles Monastery we found respite in a cup of tea and a snack.
    The terrain was flat all the way to Burguete, but we faced a thunderstorm and rain, heavy at times.
    At the end of the day, would not trade the challenge for anything.

    Burguete: stayed at Lorentx Aterpea Hostel/Albergue
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  • Day 7–8

    On our way: SJPDP to Borda

    April 13 in France ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    At breakfast this morning, we met a wonderful guy from Ireland that comes to the Camino Every Year!!! And later on, we took our own first steps of the journey.
    It was a foggy, rainy morning and at times we could not see beyond a couple of feet away. There was a good number of pilgrims starting and we could feel the excitement in the air.
    The first day was challenging at times because of the elevation, but with good company and a slow pace, we made it to Borda without problems.
    Immediately after leaving St. Jean, we met Shawn and Jamie from Alabama, and Stephanie from the Netherlands, first timers also. So we kept company, we laughed, and shared stories until we arrived at Orrison, where they stayed for the night.

    At Borda, we were met by Laurent, the owner, who gave us a little history of the place. He cooked dinner for all 16 guests and will do breakfast tomorrow.
    There, we met Jaquelina from the Netherlands, and we walked back to Orrison for some lunch. There we met our friends from Alabama again and had a fantastic time discussing religions, our backgrounds, spirituality and everything in between.
    Borda was the perfect place to spend the first night and get to feel the Camino.
    Jaquelina said something that stayed with me today.
    She took the picture of us amid the fog and she said: “Every time you look at this picture, people will see just that, a beautiful picture, but you will remember us all, all of us who shared the table and walked today, the people you will never see again and belong only to this moment, just this one moment. That is all there is.”

    That was so true of our dinner. Laurent prepared an amazing home cooked meal of vegetable soup, a traditional basque dish with pork, onions, and peppers, creamy potatoes and a chocolate mousse dessert.
    The conversation and laughter was non stop and it was like we had been friends forever, this strangers that will probably never cross paths again.
    An unforgettable start!

    At the table: North Korea, Iceland, Norway, Netherlands,
    USA: Washington, California, Virginia, North Carolina.
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  • Day 2

    Nire ibilaldiaren hasiera Palmondoan

    April 13 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    … das war Baskisch „Start meiner Wanderung am Palmsonntag“ in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Zum Auftakt meiner Reise habe ich an der Messe auf baskisch beigewohnt. Wer das baskische mal gehört hat, dem fällt es schwer die Sprache einem Platz in der Welt zuzuordnen.

    Zum Nachwandern:

    https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2143491012?re…
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