France
Saint-Georges

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  • Day 54–55

    Erster Tag in Cahors

    October 11, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Am Morgen traf ich mich mit Fabian und Jean zum Kaffee - danach hab ich mir (endlich!) mal ne französische SIM- Karte gekauft - nun bin ich mehrheitlich online😉
    Wollte das eigentlich schon in Le Puy erledigen, habs dann aber wieder vergessen.
    Und nun wurde es wirklich mühsam, da ich hier im Apartment kein Internet habe und etwas Angst vor den Kosten habe😉

    Am Nachmittag gabs Sightseeing, Jean hat mich noch ne Weile begleitet.

    Meinem Knie gehts immer noch nicht so wirklich gut. Daher werde ich mich weiterhin etwas auf die Städte hier konzentrieren und morgen entweder nach Bordeaux oder Toulouse fahren. Mal schauen was einfacher ist!
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  • Day 53–55

    Figeac - Cahors

    October 10, 2024 in France ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Heute morgen hatte ich mich zum Kaffee mit Jean und dem Japaner getroffen, danach musste ich schauen, wie ich nach Cahors komme. Figeac hatte ich so langsam gesehen und da es meinem Knie noch nicht wirklich gut geht, wollte ich in die nächste Stadt fahren.
    Zum Glück gibts hier nen Bus, der sogar richtig günstig ist (€ 2.- für 50 km).
    Jean hat das gleiche Problem wie ich und kann auch erst mal nicht laufen. Daher hat er sich gleich angeschlossen und so nahmen wir zusammen am Nachmittag den Bus nach Cahors.

    Ich hab noch nicht so viel von der Stadt gesehen, aber ich glaube es ist ne echt schöne Stadt🙂 morgen werde ich dann mal Sightseeing mache 😉
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  • Day 32

    Fazit zum Ende der Reise

    September 22, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Nach 700km zu Fuß, 32 Tagen, davon 27 zu Fuß, 3 Tagen Pause, und 2 Reisetagen (morgen dann 3) habe ich viel über mich gelernt. Ich wollte alleine sein und bin es am Ende selten geblieben. Desserts und Käse im ländlichen Frankreich sind fantastisch, aber die Infrastruktur stinkt zum Himmel. Rocamadour ist nicht nur ein Käse, manchmal ist weniger mehr und man braucht circa jeden zehnten Tag eine Pause. Etappenlaengen waren zwischen 10km und 38km lang. 10kg Gepäck sind okay für 30 Tage Chemin. Man kann durchaus Handyzeiten von unter 1,5 Stunden pro Tag haben. Mein Credential reicht noch für einen Besuch auf dem Camino der Norte. Von 35 Grad bis Schnee haben wir jedes Wetter mitgenommen. Ich habe viele Menschen besser kennengelernt, vor allem mich selbst. À la vie, qui nous unit!Read more

  • Day 30

    I just wanna stay…

    August 8, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    We welcome you with open arms, G.O.A.T.s of Mount Olympus.

    “Meet me at midnight”, the opening lines for Taylor’s best album (in my personal opinion). Fitting, then, that it is 00:03 as I take to my phone to write.

    Today was fairly hectic, the plan was to walk for half an hour to catch a 1h30 ferry, get a bus for 3 hours, a metro for 1h30, before arriving at the airport to catch a 2h30 flight. Once we arrive in France, we would drive for around two hours until we arrived home.

    So far, so good!

    We woke up and lay around a bit (or at least I did, Mum and Dad were packing and preparing away). There was, in fact, nary a need to rush, since we only had to be out of our place at 11.

    So I didn’t rush. At all.

    I chilled in bed, packed leisurely, ate breakfast while reading… basically like my holiday was beginning and not ending.

    At eleven, we were ready, and so began our stroll for the last time down the streets of Greece, with a view of the Aegean Sea. It still hadn’t quite hit me that this was it, that we were leaving. Strange things, holidays. You think they’re going to last forever when you’re in them, and once they’re over, it’s gone, never to exist again. Poetic.

    We hung out in town since we were a smidgen early, and filmed our final transition (follow us @alolliru!!), before heading to the port. After a twenty minute or so wait (during which my sisters and I planned our future matching tattoos), I spotted the boat at a distance, and so we all got up to begin our battle for the last time.

    The wait was excruciating, and in an effort to not repeat the problem of last time I was filming the entire time. The extensive documentary ft. the after-battle interview will be out tomorrow, of course.

    Filled with purpose and big boots to fill from her last time, Lily just about ran, so fast was her walking. Weaving through crowds, she was at one moment neck and neck with a similarly motivated young woman. But a fatal flaw was made on that woman’s part, leading to Lily being, once more, the first to make it onto the boat, victorious, triumphant, still striding forward as the rest of us fought for a place in the crowd.

    It was, needless to say, art. I’m so glad that our final battle as comrades was this one, a tale of triumph and honour and surviving the Great War.

    The ride itself was uneventful. I began to edit our videos and some transitions, and thought about how I would write my blog today. Midnights themed is not easy, there isn’t really a recurring theme other than that of teetering between a breakup and saving the relationship, so really not applicable to this day. I did not reach a conclusion.

    Luckily, I realised that what made it Midnights themed was the fact that I am writing this at midnight, now closer to 1am but in Greece it would be 2am, but still. Many songs from her 10th album were written at night, the thoughts that one thinks when one is tired and has no filter, when you learn your true thoughts, then?

    This is the case today, what I am writing is what I am actually thinking in real time. Lucky you!!

    However, perhaps not. In fact, maybe going with a theme of Taylor Swift albums may make my blog less interesting, since I no longer strive for comedy or even personality in my writing, instead choosing to focus on songs and feelings and moments. Is this a bad approach? I don’t know, but I assume that if I weren’t a Taylor fan, and I were reading the blog, I would be saddened by the change. However it is easier to write since I am not funny by nature so trying to make jokes is not an easy task, really.

    Anyway.

    After we left the ferry for the last time (having for once sat on a different level, and it was unanimously decided that it was a better level despite it being the same just smaller), we boarded our bus.

    Some seating complications were had in the beginning, though they were quickly resolved. Lily and I watched some Supernatural, a show on prime that is better than it seems at first, (yes mum, it is). However once we began to get closer to Athens, we took a break, mentally preparing for the long metro ride ahead of us.

    Once we arrived, it took some time to get the tickets, the guy behind the desk was a bit slow to act. And so we watched as two trains went by, the second leaving seconds before we were allowed through the gates.

    There was then, of course, a fifteen minute wait until the next one. Because of course.

    Mum began to get annoyed, worried that we would miss our flight. We did not, of course. We were hours in advance.

    We got on the metro, stayed for five stops, then switched to a different line (it is worth noting that a train that we were not taking came before ours, and dad figured out where the door would be, and stood there, so when our train arrived, we were the first ones on, and got good spots, it was pretty cool), this one was sixteen stops, the distance seeming depressingly longer and longer between each one.

    And it seems my senses are still perceptive, because this was in fact the case.

    But Allegra and I managed to amuse ourselves. We decided to see if we could hold hands for all sixteen stops, which we did.

    It was kind of gross, because we both got really sweaty palms, so the sweat was intermingling.

    Ewwww it’s kind of icky to think about.

    But sixteen stops (and some excessive hand wiping) later, we were at the airport.

    After check ins and bag drop offs and security checks (I got patted down because the sensor went off, and, as one does when this happens, I began to wonder if maybe I had forgotten that I had a bomb or something on my person and began to get really stressed), we were able to relax for a bit at the airport, getting (pretty bad) food, browsing books in WHSmith, and buying alcohol for the neighbours.

    At a suitable time, we strolled down to the departure gates, filmed the end of our last transition, took cool photos with boarding passes, and then got on the plane.

    It was pretty good looking, Lily and I sat down next to each other, with mum, all was good, I was settled in, when disaster (or more like slight annoyance) struck.

    Some kid was travelling alone, and protocol calls for them to clear all the seats next to him. So Lily and I got moved to the back so this one kid who was about the twins age could get three seats to himself! Honestly, if I didn’t get so annoyed at Lily for blaming the patriarchy at every inconvenience and thus discrediting the cause, I would blame the patriarchy!

    My question is, why couldn’t the kid have the two seats at the back of the plane with no window, right next to the air hostesses gossiping and the bathroom that people went to twice a minute apparently?? I mean seriously, we did book those seats 🙄.

    Friggin kids.

    But Lily and I made the best of it, and though the turbulence was annoying, we were distracted by Supernatural and magazines. So it was okay.

    The food, however, wasn’t, consisting of a sandwich that was really pretty bad, with either sweet falafels or sweet sauce, but in a bad way, and a buttery biscuit. I did get tomato juice, which is top tier though.

    I think I want tomato juice for my birthday. Take notes!!

    Three hours or so later, we landed in our home country of France. Collecting baggage, showing passports, and then we’re done.

    Just… go live the rest of your life, I guess. Have fun!

    That’s when it really hit me, that Greece was over. Done. I’m not going back, at least for a while. I began to write this blog to take my thoughts off of that as we waited for the shuttle, but it didn’t much help.

    My tiredness lead me to try and talk about it, and my confusion at time itself. I mean really, as I said to Tate, when you’re in the moment, nothing else matters because it’s not conceivable (at least to my mind) that it’s ever actually going to end.

    Theoretically, I know that it will be over, but in my mind, it’s just “you’re doing this thing now, so how could it ever be over? It won’t be.”

    Except it always is, but it doesn’t matter because something else is happening already!!

    So that’s basically what I rambled on to Tate about until the conversation shifted to bad school systems that need a reform, and also to sweet sandwiches.

    We arrived at our car, packed it up, and drove off. It felt slightly anticlimactic, I felt melancholy (in the theme of Midnights, I guess), but as we drove onto the motorway of Toulouse, Teenage Dirtbag by I don’t know who was put on, and Allegra, dad and I sang along, even though I don’t actually know enough words, which did lift my spirits. It was no Mr. Brightside by the Killers though, I’m still hoping that one will play because I actually love it and we are listening to dad’s “Big D Rocks” playlist, so there’s hope yet!

    I’m going to end this blog here because that is where I’m at in my day, because it’s 1:30 am, because I’m so tired and because the driving is making my typing go crazy and my eyes are too tired to pick out the mistacos.

    Honorary mention today goes to Mum and Dad for organising such a bopping trip, Greece was 10/10, I’m glad we did this, and I had a great time, elaboration on that tomorrow.

    Midnights is a perfect album, I recommend listening, especially to my personal faves, The Great War, Lavender Haze, Would’ve Could’ve Should’ve, Dear Reader, and Hits Different.

    Peace right out.

    Cheeeeese!!
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  • Day 38–39

    Day 39 - Cahors to Moissac

    May 29, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After a lovely night in our medieval apartment in Cahors we had a hunt for a bakery that served breakfast. The Plodicus led the charge through the morning drizzle. After a few false starts we hit gold with the great smells of coffee and fresh pastries. As we tucked into these delights our friendly Dutch/Estonian couple spotted us and joined us for breakfast. They had finished their walk and were returning home tomorrow.
    As we returned to the apartment to collect our rucksacks and head for the station. Today was a rest day from walking but we were hopping along our route to Moissac - a time saving device to ensure we finish our pilgrimage in the brexit defined 90 days!!
    Simon has named our sat nav Trevor and he did a sterling job getting us to Gare du Cahors.
    So we had 2 short train journeys before arriving into the ancient town of Moissac.
    Simon became exasperated when an Austrian/German woman latched onto us. He is now feeling a little uncharitable about this! Why and how - he says- do these people appear out of the ether?
    After marching twice around the town we settled on a small pizza place for lunch. The sun was in and out the clouds throughout the afternoon.
    We then headed for the Abbey which has many links with the Abbey in Cluny - our starting point. It also reminded us on a smaller scale of the Djomo in Florence. We were accompanied by a large tourist group of Spanish people. We lit 2 candles for you all so feel the blessings coming your way.
    We headed for tonight’s accommodation at 3.30 to be greeted by our hostess Veronique. A former teacher turned guest house owner. She has an amazing house with a beautiful garden - and I think we are the only guests tonight. She has recommended a trip to the canal quarter of the town this evening. We shall see …
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  • Day 20

    Mas de Vers to Cahors: Sunshine!

    May 8, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Breakfast started at 6am, and was nearly outside our room, but we heard nothing. Perhaps because no-one went: they all appeared when we appeared around 7:40. Cereal, bread and jam, yoghurt, an urn of coffee, hot water for tea (but only herbal or green tea available) and apple juice.

    We dropped our bags off for the beloved La Malle Postale for the last time, and left the Gite around 8:10 on our last day (for now) of walking. It was only 18km to Cahors, but Cahors is more than a village and we wanted to see it.

    No rain, and I wore only two T-shirts as it was supposed to start at 10 deg and be 23 deg by midday. Unfortunately the sun could not dry out the mud in minutes, so there was lots, but seemingly less, as there were always tracks around the frequent stretches of mire at the start.

    It was relatively flat, so no sudden panoramas or changes of landscape, but walking in sunshine was a wonderful change. I could understand why people might want to go for weeks on end. It was no trouble to stop anywhere, look anywhere, sit anywhere or wear normal clothes. I think the biggest difference was the sense that one did not have to wait for the hotel at the end of the day to sit, relax, be warm and dry off without needing to manage coats and jackets and being crowded in.

    There were a few farms but no villages on the way, but we stopped around 12 at a farmhouse with a huge lawn that had tables and chairs in the sun and served tea and coffee as the chooks scratched around in the grass,.. and only one person there. She was a lady from north of France who had driven to Conques, walked for a week, and would get the bus from Cahors to Conques the next morning and drive 8hrs home. No wonder the locals like doing the trip section by section!

    After a coffee (me), local cake (both) and huge glass of mint-syrup water (Anne - GI cordial in a different world?), we went on, then stopped for lunch (bread and cheese) under some trees, sitting on rocks and hearing the occasional cuckoo. It is surprising how monotonous their calls can be! The phrase "going cuckoo" has a new meaning! We had passed quite a few people during the morning, but no-one went past as we sat there, and we did not see anyone on the last 45 mins or so into Cahors.

    Cahors is a biggish town/small; city with a medieval old town. We walked in by crossing the Lot River, then around to the old stone bridge on the West (c. 15 mins), and to the hotel. Arrived there at 2pm, and luggage had arrived but room not yet ready... We were able to use a spare admin space to open cases and grab the bag of laundry, then walked into the old town to a laundromat. We thought we were inconspicuous in a small French laundromat, but St Craig of Kiama and Liz walked past and saw us. Washing done (sort of - unlike in Japan, the addition of soap is possible, but we had not realised). We walked back to the hotel (The Brit Hotel), had a shower and walked through the old town before meeting the aforesaid saint and spouse in a brasserie on a square in town.

    Cahors is not as picturesque as Figeac, but has the same alleys and old buildings, with a magnificent church and other old buildings. There is an area called the amphitheatre: when excavating for a carpark, the remains of an amphitheatre were found, even though there is no known record of it.

    Today (Wednesday) is a national holiday, as is tomorrow (Ascension Day), and half of France seems to be taking Friday off, so it was a large holiday crowd sitting around in about 20 deg with the sun shining until 730 or so. St Craig and Liz start the next 3 weeks of walking tomorrow. They headed off, and we had dinner in one of the few small cafes that was still open in the side-streets. A New Zealander ran it, and specialised in exotic burgers, like the Burger Bach place Nico once took us to in Durham. Not French, but very good. We talked for quite a time with him about French food laws, marketing and France.

    The Brit Hotel looks like a Russian primary school from the outside, and the stairs and public spaces look the same, but the room is very bright, very clean and quite large. 1. Good shower and a bathroom with shelf space, too. 2. The wifi is as bad as the outside would imply. 3 No tea or coffee (I am beginning to appreciate the simple highway motels between Sydney and Mission Beach, perhaps because for the first time ever we are arriving at places in the early afternoon). 4 Excellent breakfast…and no need to pack bags before 8am. Our train leaves at 9:30, and the station is 3 minutes away.

    38,179 steps, 30.5km and 35 flights … so about 417km since 21 April, and 1,288 flights of stairs in 18 days, according to my app.
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  • Day 19

    Mas de Games to Mas de Vers

    May 7, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Cheerful but limited breakfast at 7:30, and then a small panic when the La Malle Postale van appeared at 7:45, not the standard "after 8am". Six people hurriedly left the table to finish packing and take their bag to the door to be collected... but the van was on a different run and was dropping bags off.

    We left around 8am with ponchos on. It looked overcast, and there was soon a slow drizzle.

    The walk went through farms and then 3km into a small town (Limogne en Quency) where we bought some bread and cheeses, looked at the church (as always) and headed on. The total for today was to be around 25km, which included three small villages (Limogne en Quency, Varaire and Bach) all about 7ks apart. There was a slow downhill to the first town, but after that it was generally flat - which was good, as there was constant light rain.

    There were a few novelties on the way. One was an old dolmen, which was about 100m off the path, and taken as a sign that in Neolithic time, people were settling around those areas. Another was seeing a deer running through a field early in the afternoon. A third was a series of 'cabane", the circular dry-stone structures in the fields that were either shelters or storage - or perhaps wells.

    A lowlight was the mud. For the last 8kms it was almost unbroken. The rain was not a problem with ponchos and overpants, and it was cool but not finger-numbingly cold, but the mud was always mud.

    The hotel - Gite de Poudally - is a little outside Mas de Vers, which is another non-village collection of a few farms and nothing else. I did not have high expectations, but there was apricot tea on arrival, a cheerful host, big dry rooms and lots of space. Our bags were already here. One lady said it was an hotel, not a gite, which is fine by us. We contemplated going for a walk when the sun came out later in the afternoon, but quickly thought the better of it: it would involve wet grass or mud, and there was nothing nearby to see. Everyone says that May in the south of France ought to be sunny, warm and charming, so we might not be seeing it at its best...

    Dinner was everyone sitting at a few long trestle tables. It was surprising how many people spoke good English, and how few people there were German.

    Tomorrow is the last day of the Camino. Going only on the distance from town to town, we will have done 350km in 17 days.

    34,190 steps, 27.8km and 6 flights
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  • Day 84

    Der Sommer kommt

    May 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Heute ist es wieder sonnig und noch dazu sommerlich heiß. Bis zu 25°C, sagt mein Handy, aber das natürlich im Schatten.
    Die Etappe selbst ist nicht besonders aufregend, aber wenn jeder Tag landschaftlich unglaublich beeindruckend wäre, wäre ich wahrscheinlich längst an Reizüberflutung zugrunde gegangen. Etappen wie heute sind dafür umso meditativer und damit besser zum Nachdenken.Read more

  • Day 83

    Unterwegs nach Lascabanes

    May 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Ich habe Glück: während es für Magdalena gestern auf dem Weg nach Lascabanes den ganzen Tag geregnet hat, kommt bei mir nach dem anfänglichen Nebel sogar die Sonne heraus. Für den Nachmittag ist zwar Gewitter angesagt, aber davon lasse ich mich nicht stressen und mache mehrere entspannte Pausen. Trotzdem bin ich schon kurz vor 14 Uhr am Ziel. Und bald darauf beginnt es zu donnern!Read more

  • Day 83

    Morgennebel in Cahors

    May 22, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Nach dem gestrigen Pausentag geht es mir heute Früh hundertmal besser. Dem kann auch der Nebel keinen Abbruch tun, den zumindest hat es aufgehört zu regnen! Die Stimmung auf der Pont Valentré, dem Wahrzeichen von Cahors, ist mystisch, als ich sie überquere und damit die Stadt verlasse. Auf der anderen Seite muss ich erst einmal Stufen erklimmen, die an Steilheit bisher unübertroffen sind. Dafür sind die Höhenmeter des Tages damit mehr oder weniger erledigt und der Rest der Etappe ist eher flach.Read more

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