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  • TravelerFrance and Germany 2024
    1621113
    Day 12

    Espalion to Golinhac - visiting a castle

    April 30, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We had breakfast at the same table as at dinner, looking out on the street and hoping the drizzle would hold off. It was a larger offering than at the convent, with teapots there for tea. It is strange that breakfast can be so important when you have no control over what it might be.

    We started at 8:10 along the Lot river. It was overcast, so Anne had her poncho, but I thought I would be too hot with it. After 5km we were at a lovely old chapel (St Pierre) , followed by a steep 180m hill - up and down in a lot of mud. There was almost a rivulet in the middle of the path coming down. Landed at another old chapel and chateau ( Verrieres) before another 150m hill, then down to Estaing (think Giscard d’Estaing) with its 1,000 year old castle/ chateau and church. We were there around 11:15.

    St Come was stunning, but so were St Chely, Espalion and now Estaing. We toured the chateau, looked in the church, took too many photos, bought a baguette and set off for Golinhac as the church bell rang 12.

    The first 8km from Estaing were all uphill. There was a steady 350m rise as we went along the dammed river (hydro-electric) then up... through a forest, over farmland, more forests and occasional roads, then slowly down 100m and up the same 100m to Golinhac, which is on top of a ridge with spectacular views from W to N to E.

    We were both pretty weary by the time we reached our small hotel around 3:30. It was easy to find as it is the only hotel in a very small hamlet. The cleaner/ waitress/ receptionist showed us to the accommodation (maybe 7 rooms) which meant going outside and back in, and when we came in WE HAD TWO BAGS! La Malle Postale must have learned from and modernised the Yam, (although the Celts rather than the Mongols used to be here). Bliss is a second pair of shoes and clean clothes, plus wet-weather gear, gloves and poles.

    Golinhac has a population of 355, so walking around it later did not take long, but it is old, neat and has amazing views. Our interesting fact for the day was that town names ending in -hac or -ac indicate a Celtic past.

    Hotel Auberge de Golinhac: 1 Wifi very erratic. 2 No tea or coffee. 3 Bed okay. 4 Dinner was good - great cheese salad. 5 Basic breakfast. 6 Great view.

    40,600 steps, 32.6km and 157 flights. Maybe 1,000 steps less than the longest day in Japan, but 110 extra flights of stairs. Knees and ankles confirm it.    Read more

  • TravelerViva Andalucia 2025
    123
    Day 75

    Puy de Dôme

    March 16 in France ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    Wir haben gut geschlafen und noch besser gefrühstückt. Voller Vorfreude fahren wir los und werden von einer lächelnden Sonne begleitet. 🌞

    Womit wir aber überhaupt nicht gerechnet hatten, und auch keine Wetter-App hatte das vorausgesagt, war ein heftiger Wintereinbruch. Wir konnten es kaum glauben, dass wir plötzlich bei nur geringer Sichtweise bei -6 Grad durch Schnee und über vereiste Straßen fuhren.☃️🌨️

    Unser Ziel ist der berühmte, auch aus dem Radsport (Tour de France) bekannte Puy de Dôme. Dieser ist ein 1465 m hoher Vulkan im gleichnamigen Département und gehört zum Zentralmassiv in der Auvergne im Zentrum Frankreichs. Er ist der höchste Berg der Kette der Puys. Als “Grand Site de France" klassifiziert und in der Nähe von Clermont-Ferrand gelegen, ist der Puy de Dôme das Wahrzeichen des gesamten Departements. Unter den 80 Vulkanen, die von der UNESCO zum Weltkulturerbe erklärt wurden, ist nur der Puy de Dôme für jedermann zugänglich, dank der elektrischen Zahnradbahn Panoramique des Dômes. 

    Wir hatten eine Fahrt mit dieser Zahnradbahn eingeplant. Aber bei diesem Wetter und dieser schlechten Sicht? Wir haben uns diese 30 Euro gespart. 🤔

    Auf dem Rückweg entdeckten wir einen schönen Aussichtspunkt oberhalb der Stadt Clermont-Ferrand.

    Wir buchten ein Zimmer mit Küche und Parkplatz in einem Home & Break Hotel. Das Zimmer ist zwar kleiner als unsere gewohnten Apartments, sind aber sauber und komplett ausgestattet. 65 € / Tag

    Von hier aus können wir in den nächsten Tagen die Stadt fußläufig erkunden🚶🚶‍♂️    Read more

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  • TravelerJessi's Jakobsweg
    121111
    Day 48–49

    Saint-Côme - Estaing

    October 5, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Heute wars ne richtig tolle Herbstwanderung - so ziemlich perfekt☺️
    Am Morgen wars zwar noch ziemlich neblig, aber irgendwann kam die Sonne raus und es wurde richtig warm!
    Thomas hab ich auch noch angetroffen und wir waren dann mal wieder gemeinsam unterwegs. Und da die Strecke heute recht kurz war (etwa 21 km), konnten wir es auch richtig gemütlich nehmen.
    Die Städtchen hier sind einfach nur wunderschön, wie im Märchen😍

    Wollte morgen mal Pause einlegen und einen Tag hier bleiben, aber es soll die Tage richtig übel regnen. Schau dann mal nach nem Kaffee - aber falls es wirklich so schlecht sein sollte, werde ich wohl mit dem Bus (den gibt es hier!😅) in die nächste Stadt fahren, wo gerade ein Festival stattfindet.
    Mal schauen🙂    Read more

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  • TravelerJessi's Jakobsweg
    1111
    Day 47–48

    Les Cambrassats - Saint-Côme-d'Olt

    October 4, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Heute war endlich mal ein richtig einfacher Tag - ich hatte eine Unterkunft in der nächsten Stadt gebucht. Das waren heute noch nicht mal 15 km🙂
    Ich bin dann erst gegen 9:30 los, da ich ansonsten viel zu früh am Ziel angekommen wäre. Und da Lee und Cédric schon weg waren, genoss ich etwa 1.5 Stunden alleine in dem kleinen Häuschen.

    Der Weg war einfach und es ging immer abwärts. Nun bin ich hier nur noch auf knapp 400 M ü.M.
    Das Wetter wurde auch immer besser und als ich am Ziel ankam, war es sogar richtig schön und sonnig🙂

    Das Städtchen hier ist sehr hübsch und wurde sogar als eine der schönsten Städte Frankreichs gekürt!

    Die Gite hier ist wieder mal recht gross und wir teilen uns grad zu sechst das Zimmer.
    Der Vorteil ist jedoch dabei, dass man immer recht tolle und interessante Menschen kennenlernt!
    Aber bin dann auch mal wieder froh, wenn ich alleine bin😉    Read more

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  • TravelerJessi's Jakobsweg
    11111
    Day 46–47

    Montgros - Les Cambrassats

    October 3, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Eigentlich war heute mit ca. 22 km ein eher kurzer Wandertag. Trotzdem kam ich erst um halb 7 in meiner Unterkunft an.
    Gerade als ich am Morgen die Gite (Unterkunft) verliess, lief Thomas vorbei, der in der Nähe campiert hatte. Voll der Zufall!
    Wir liefen dann wieder mal ne Weile zusammen.

    Das Wetter war heute eigentlich gut gemeldet - doch es war ziemlich eklig! Viel Nieselregen, "normaler" Regen, Wind und Kälte! Hier in den Bergen ist es sehr wahrscheinlich noch viel extremer und kälter als weiter unten - schliesslich sind, bzw. waren, wir auf 1400 M.ü.M.
    Die Temepraturen hier sind tagsüber gegen 10 Grad, gefühlt waren es heute aber nur knapp über null🥶

    Ich war jedenfalls froh, war die Strecke heute nicht so lang. Aber ich denke, da das Wetter so schlecht war, waren wir auch eher langsam unterwegs.
    Ausserdem hatte ich am Schluss Mühe, die Unterkunft zu finden, da ich weder Name noch Adresse hatte. Cédric, der schon die Tage vorher in der gleichen Unterkunft war wie ich, hatte diese Nacht gleich für mich mitgebucht. Aber irgendwie habe ich mir nicht so genau aufgeschrieben, wo das ist und so bin ich zuerst noch dran vorbeigelaufen. War dann froh, als ich endlich ankam!
    Hier sind wir nur zu dritt - wieder Lee aus Korea, Cédric und ich.
    Thomas habe ich wieder verloren, da er kalt hatte und viel zu schnell (davon-) gelaufen ist😉

    Die Unterkunft hier ist echt irgendwo im Nirgendwo. Und man hört dauernd einen Hirsch brüllen! Da ich das Geräusch nicht kannte, dachte ich zuerst, es sei eine gebärende Kuh! Man klärte mich hier dann aber auf und ich bin froh, ist es nur ein Hirsch😅    Read more

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  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    Day 29–31

    Day 29 - Golinac to Conques

    May 19, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The meal last night at the campsite was a worry as we had ordered a burger- they asked how we wanted it cooked??!! I said well done and Simon said medium… this meant that Simon’s burger came back only half cooked 😩 however he was so hungry by this point he ate half of it but it tasted more and more like pet food, so he stopped eating it and felt quite angry 😡 who eats raw burgers other than the french?
    Thankfully he survived the night!.
    The morning bought fog and rain. So we set off on our long walk to Conques all poncho’d up against the weather. We passed through the towns of Esperyac and Senergues. It was tough going, especially the descent into Conques- warning Helen and Andy, a tough ascent out again.
    Conques is a very old hobbledy hoy medieval village. When we got into our ancient house we found Hansel and Gretel 😂 Simon’s sense of humour! It all looks like it’s out of a fairy tale. As usual we were starving and have discovered that cafe/snack bars do a dish called ‘galettes’ which is the French version of a Staffordshire oatcake with savoury fillings 🙌 so we haven’t had to wait until 7 to eat.
    We decided to utilise the washing machine offered by the apartment and unfortunately put on a 3 hour cycle - lack of understanding french instructions 🙄 so have been kept up waiting for this to finish.
    We await the arrival of my sister Helen and her husband Andy who join us tomorrow for a few days on the trail 👣👣🙌🙌 so a rest day for us tomorrow! 👏
    We have now walked more than 400 km!! 👣👣💪
    P.S. Simon just gone to check on the washing and the clothes have all dissolved- that is the end of the walk 🤪    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    2
    Day 28–29

    Day 28 - Estaing to Golinhac

    May 19, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today started off with a panic as Simon had lost his new hat!! We had to return to last night’s restaurant where we spotted it under the table. Mary had to then employ her French phone technique again to alert the owner of our dilemma and create a rescue scene! We had success 🙌 and now Simon has pinned it to his head!!
    Our walk today was shorter than of late and started with a 4 km stretch alongside the River Lot. Then it revealed its teeth and the next 6km at least were the walk up the endless, very steep hill.
    We then went through wooded glades and gullies on our route to Golihac.
    We also passed the drone of thousands of bees on several occasions which caused us to quicken our step.
    As we approached the village the ominous sounds of thunder - followed by darkening, brooding skies and yes 15 mins before our arrival the rain once again tumbled from the sky.
    We went walk about looking for campsite, arrived - reception was closed so started to set up camp under an awning when reception kindly opened early and got us into our chalet 👏
    Laundry done, now drying, we tried to find an earlier supper but no 🙄 we have to wait til 7 to eat. Then as early as possible to bed as we are feeling jaded!!    Read more

  • TravelerWalking the Camino
    3
    Day 26–27

    Day 26 - Aubrac to St Come d’Olt

    May 17, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We walked into Aubrac and spotted a swankey Brasserie so booked a meal for later. We then checked into our accommodation ‘La Dômerie’ a Chambre de hotes of very high quality. Wonderful to have sheets provided and not to have to use our sleeping pods. The hotel was a wonderful old building that had been kept in a traditional manner.
    We went for our meal which again was in a room of fantastic character with all kinds of quirky furniture, ornaments and art. It had a wood burning stove in the middle which was delightful as we arrived but soon made us very warm indeed.
    After a good sleep went down for a lovely breakfast in the charming dining room - a great selection including fruit salad, fresh croissants, cheese and ham. We left feeling buoyant and ready for a day on the road. A good job too as we had 24 km to get through.
    It was a tough slog as at least 15 of the km were a steep descent over gullies filled with rocks that really hammer your feet.
    We went through the medieval village of Chely d’Aubrac and stopped for coffee. Our lunch stop was in the hamlet of Lestrades where the locals had put hot drinks in a barn in a help yourself basis.
    The rain, thunder and lightning started as we approached our accommodation for the night - the Convent de Malet - where we were welcomed by 2 of the sisters. The convent is a big, old roomy building with a great wooden staircase and well oiled policies and philosophies. It can accommodate up to 60 pilgrims a night.
    After putting bags into room and freshening up we hobbled into town while we had the energy. Sadly most places were shut til 7 except the bakery and local snack bar. We dined on paninis and offered to buy one for another pilgrim travelling with his dog. This turned out to be Roman, a 29 year old Czech Republic guy who said he sometimes walks up to 40 km a day😳 and lives outdoors relying on the kindness of The Way.
    Had a good hour or so with him listening to his tales and philosophies, he had very gentle, spiritual eyes - probably a psycho 😆 - only joking. We sent him on his way with some provisions from the bakery and €10 - he was very happy and we had hugs all around before heading back to our convent for showers and chilling before bed in prep for 20 km tomorrow.    Read more

  • TravelerFrance and Germany 2024
    1212
    Day 11

    St-Come to Espalion

    April 29, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today was a short walk - 7km from one scenic village to the next. It was even shorter after we read Rosie's advice on alternative routes, and Anne's Vespers partner suggested going via the secondary road since it was cloudy and raining.

    We left the convent around 8:45 and were in Espalion around 10am. It was a flat walk beside a river that seemed twice as big as yesterday. Some rain, perhaps, or a release from one of the upstream hydro-electric dams?

    There were cars and people, but it is Monday and most shops are shut. That includes clothes shops, so our plans to buy waterproof pants were foiled. Espalion is much larger than the last two villages, but the centre is as old and as pretty. There are some old 20 houses built side-by-side along the river that used to be tanneries, and they still have the stone steps down to the water.

    We expected the hotel to be closed until 3pm, but we came in with our dripping ponchos after walking around the town. Reception was empty, so we sat for a while, then Anne found a notice saying reception was closed from 12-5pm, but if you arrived during that time you should look up your room number in the hotel's room register and take your own key...so we did. We were in our room around 1pm. Our one solitary bag had been in reception, waiting.

    Dinner at the hotel. Very cheerful staff, and no choices: a bacon, egg, pork and mustard salad, great bread, aligot and a local sausage, and then a pear tart. The first two courses were fantastic. There was heavier rain as we sat in the restaurant looking out at the street, but we are hoping for a long break in the drizzle tomorrow.

    17,565 steps, 13.9 km and 1 flight    Read more

  • TravelerFrance and Germany 2024
    111
    Day 10

    St Chely to Saint-Come-d'Olt

    April 28, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    As we went up the hill leaving St Chely I took a photo back down over the village, thinking "Yep. Great shot. That should be first on the blog." Now we are in Saint-Come-d'Olt and I am not so sure. This is Brigadoon in France - the village time forgot. The Lot River valley has (I am told) some of France's prettiest villages, and this one tops the pops. Street names are in French and Occitan.

    We had packed our one bag to the gunnels again, left it for collection and went to breakfast, which was different: two coffee machines, pots for tea, muesli and granola, but no cheese (but otherwise as usual). We left around 8:30, over an apparently famous pilgrim's bridge, up a long, steep hill with amazing views back over the village, and off through farmland. It was lime green, since trees already had new leaves, and it was noisier with birds. We wore ponchos as we assumed that, being overcast, it would rain, but it didn't , and we were sweaty, so off they came. There were a few steep ups and downs, and often rocky paths, but nothing very hard. We went through one hamlet, but alongside numerous old farmhouses and barns, often with enormous piles of straw and cow dung ready to be spread back over the paddocks.

    We arrived at St-Come-d'Olt around 1:15, and as we stopped to look around a young woman asked if we needed anything, then told us about the shops being closed and the few bars etc that were open. She had an apron from a cafe (Cafe La Pause), so we went there later. The village has a few 11th C features, a church with a twisted spire (design or bad builder? no-one knows) and looks untouched. It might need a section to itself, particularly as the hotel tonight is a convent.

    Overall, it is so far, so good physically. Weary feet, but nothing worse than aches and end-of-day tiredness.

    27,785 steps, 22.0km and 51 flights. Tomorrow is a short day - only 7km to a large town    Read more

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