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France Bar-sur-Aube

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  • TravelerVia Francigena with Liam
    1
    Day 9

    Stage 31: Clairvaux

    July 13, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    The hills are starting and the temperature is rising, but so far so good.

    Except for……..MOSQUITOS! 🦟🦟

    We walked on muddy paths and huge puddles through forests, and through lots of Champagne fields.

    Baroville was a tidy, friendly town with a 14th century Madonna and statues in the cemetery.

    Clairvaux is famous for its abbey. It was once a prison….Carlos the Jackal was there.    Read more

  • TravelerVia Francigena with Liam
    Day 8

    Stage 30: Bar-sur-Aube

    July 12, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Incredibly lucky with the weather so far! Today the sky was gray and a cool breeze blew.

    We walked through and along the Forêt d’Orient and fields of wheat, sunflowers, etc.

    Several French people stopped their cars or walked out to wish us a Bon Chemin and ask about our experiences so far.

    No idea about the mileage, but I will say Liam is wearing the ankle brace, my heat rash has spread, and our feet were on fire by the time we arrived.    Read more

  • TravelerFrance, Spring 2024
    Day 58–59

    Port Dienville, Aube

    May 30, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We are staying in the Aube department today at the marina in Dienville. Its a really nice location and there's alot to do at the marina . We might have to make a return visit because we've had very heavy rain today which forced us to retreat to the motorhome!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
    122
    Day 38

    Day 35 - Clairvaux to Chateauvillain

    May 25, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Another beautiful sunny day with a lot of climbing and only a little coming down. I think the Roman 'style' bathhouse actually was one as I have come across a few more; one at Baroville yesterday (all barred up, no access), two at Cirfontaine-en-Azois (another very small place with a large name), one at Aizanville (the prettiest: photo included), and one just out side of Marmesse (the cleanest and therfore the most tempting: photo included). When I got to Orges, the map for the last 5.5 km of my walk would not load in the VF app (I still can't get it to load)! I wasted a lot of time and phone charge trying to fix it, eventually gave up and relied on the way markers and my map reading skills to get me to Chateauvillain. I'll have to do the same tomorrow. Tonight, I have a genuine complaint: the only accommodation I could get was an apartment. "Ok," I think, I'll make good use of the washing machine - there isn't one! And, to add insult to injury, there is no hot water! Last note: that man on the bike is the only person I saw, and spoke to on the path today.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
    3
    222
    Day 37

    Day 34 - Dolancourt to Clairvaux

    May 24, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    OMG! What an amazing day! I rejoined the Path both literally and figuratively. Most of the walking was up and down what I think could be described as undulating hills. There were some serious ascents and decents. The highlight of which was the ascent up Chemin du Saint Germain (St. Germain's path) out of Bar sur Aube - which, by the way, is an incredibly beautiful city and somewhere I could spend a lot more time. I've done something to my right ankle! I'm just hoping that it will be fine in the morning. The day peaked, to be my best day here, when I got to Clairvaux. The Abbey here was founded by Saint Bernard in 1115, taken from the monks as part of the French Revolution, made a prison by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1808, I think, and is now a maximum security prison for 10, possibly less, prisoners (the guide wasn't 100% sure). It will close as such at the end of this year. For the very modest sum of €9.50, I got a guided tour of many of the old buildings (including one of the original restored medieval buildings), no photography allowed, with just one other person, a Dutch woman, in English! It made my day! The tour was supposed to end at 5:30, but we didn't finish until around 6 pm as we had so many questions. Like, did you know that until 1905 the law in France made it compulsory for everyone to attend church on Sunday and that capital punishment was not stopped until 1981 (the last execution was conducted in 1977)? Final observation: all vines in Champagne are planted on slopes. It must be a drainage thing.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 1
    442
    Day 36

    Day 33 - Villeret to Dolancourt

    May 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    It was a hard day walking today. I couldn't get to sleep last night, and I was really drained today - no energy. In addition, I was entirely off Path due to accommodation issues; all of my own making. Today, I walked on the D2, D69, D400, D396 (mostly), D619, and ended on the D44a. The traffic wasn't heavy, but there were a lot of trucks. I came across a very cute street library in a bus shelter and what appeared to be a Roman style, public bath house in a place called Hampigny! I also walked past two darling little 'shelters', both with fireplaces inside (nothing else). I'm in a really lovely place tonight, a Spa, and am looking forward to a good meal and a very good night's sleep. The river is l'AubeRead more

  • TravelerSanta Margarida Trail
    1512
    Day 38

    Bon courage !

    May 21, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Guten Morgen aus dem Zelt, das im Augenblick noch in einem winzigen Urwald zwischen den Dörfern Blaise und Champcourt steht.
    Zwar hat sich die Landschaft hinter Joinville im Vergleich zu der zuvor durchwanderten nur geringfügig verändert -die Hügel sind ein wenig steiler- und auch der Weg besteht nach wie vor überwiegend aus Asphalt, doch bin ich hier wieder Menschen begegnet, die sich für mehr zu interessieren scheinen, als für ihre Traktoren und Wachhunde. Gleich mehrmals kamen sie gestern auf mich zu, wünschten 'Buen camino' oder 'Bon courage' und suchten den Smalltalk. Da wird dem Fremden warm ums Herz!
    Außerdem wurden schöne Oasen für den Wanderer angelegt, wie z.B. ein reaktiviertes Waschhaus in Leschères-sur-le-Blaiseron, wo kristallklares Wasser durch einen Pool strömt und zu einem Bad einlädt. Explizit für Menschen, Hunde dürfen hier nicht hinein. Was hätte ich letzter Tage noch für so eine Waschgelegenheit gegeben!
    An der Kirche Notre Dame d' Étourvy fand ich außerdem einen funktionierenden Trinkwasserhahn und bekam endlich mal wieder einen Pilgerstempel. Nur die Dame des Hauses ist...naja sagen wir mal von zweifelhafter Schönheit. Und irgendwie machte es auf mich den Eindruck, als würde sie dem Betrachter...was ihr Sohn wohl auch noch lustig findet! Aber seht selbst.    Read more

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  • TravelerSouthbound2024
    Day 58

    Weiter Richtung Heimat

    April 18, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Gestern wollten wir in Auxerre bleiben, aber keine Chance. Alles überfüllt und voller Baustellen. So fuhren wir weiter bis Brienon. Stellplatz an einem Kanal. Heute dann bis Dienville an einem Jachthafen mit Strandpromenade, alles da, nur kein Wetter.Read more

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  • TravelerVia @ 70
    Day 27

    Orges 21 miles

    August 8, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    At 21 miles this was always going to be a fairly tough day but the terrain started to be distinctly hillier than the almost completely flat ground that I have been on before. On the plus side blisters seem to be a thing of the past and the weather is now more like the dry and sunny that I was expecting. Not hot yet, just a nice walking temperature.

    Came upon a bar during the day and celebrated with a juice and a Magnum and a wee seat with my shoes off. I know how to live. Apart from that it was a non-stop 8 hour shift. Mostly in woods. Not unpleasant despite the length. Feet and back both grumbling a little at the end but nothing that wasn’t repaired by a shower and a half hour lie down.

    During the afternoon I had a phone call from tonight’s chambre d’hote to ask if I was looking for an evening meal. Too right I was. Just finished it and very good it was too. The only slight issue was there was another pilgrim as well. 2 hours spent discussing Brexit with a Dutch guy taxed my social skills more than a little as well as being about 2 hours more Brexit discussion than I have ever had before or want to have again. Worryingly it looks like we are doing about the same distances each day so we may well meet again. But not tomorrow as he has arranged a 7am breakfast while I am going for my usual 8.30am. And we are in different places tomorrow night.    Read more

  • TravelerVia @ 70
    Day 26

    Bar-sur-Aube 14 miles

    August 7, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    What is it with kids and trampolines? Do they never want to stop? I have had a go. It’s OK but a couple of minutes, tops, and I’ve had enough. For some reason they put the glamping tents beside the kids play park in this campsite. Oh yes, there was a hedge in between but there isn’t a lot of sound-proofing in a hedge. So there I was, lying in my tent which was beside the glamping tent, just building up a fine head of steam as blasted kids kept bouncing up and down on this massive trampoline just outside. Finally the damn great church clock near the campsite struck 10pm and silence reigned. But I had lost an hour of much needed beauty sleep.

    Now there is a strange thing about my tiny blow-up mattress. In the early days I found it almost impossible to sleep on. But last night I had little trouble. I don’t think I am that much smaller. It could be that I am getting used to a different place every night. I have now slept in 26 different places so I think I am just getting less fussy about where my head goes down.

    No possibility of breakfast this morning in the campsite or as I left town. Did come across a boulangerie later in the morning but it was a Monday wasn’t it.

    All roads today as I am going off route to save a day. The official route meanders a bit. No need.

    As I was walking along thinking I was miles from anywhere I heard a lot of squealing. Damn great tower sticking up out of the trees. Appears that there is an Alton Towers type of place very close by.

    Early arrival at tonight’s hotel so I dropped the bag and headed into town to see if I could catch a restaurant before they closed after lunch. No such luck but I did get a patisserie for quiche and cake. Bit cheaper. Caught up with domestic duties in the afternoon. Washing, charging phone, some advance booking etc. Tried out a Vietnamese carry out for tea. Not a great success. Made a change though.

    The one drawback with hotels is they often have TVs and there are few things more annoying than hearing your fellow guest’s TV blaring out through the paper thin walls. And unlikely to have a 10pm curfew. I do think I am becoming Victor Meldrew sometimes.    Read more

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