Germany Talsperre Cranzahl

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  • Day 17

    At the Top and Back Down

    December 12, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 34 °F

    We made it to the top. Thankfully, it was getting close to two. IF I had read the sign wrong, and the cable car wouldn't start up again, I saw there was a bus (seriously-- I could have ridden up on a BUS???) leaving to go down to the town at 15:15. We were set. Had some potato soup and bread, walked around, took some photos. Walked some more and looked over into Czech Republic, but we weren't how far the border was so didn't go looking for the photo op of a border crossing.

    We saw the wedding people come out of the station and take pictures. Finally, they loaded up into the gondola, and were off, except for the two guys hauling cases of liquor to their car. No offer to us folks waiting to share a couple bottles. We bought our tickets, then got in line to make our way back to bottom of the mountain with a handful of other bedraggled looking people.

    Beautiful scenery. Don't regret the hike at all, and up was probably better than down, to be honest. I wouldn't mind coming back in summer or fall for more hiking. Definitely regret the Columbia snow-hiking boots. They're a disaster.

    T
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  • Day 17

    Going Up the Fichtelberg

    December 12, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 34 °F

    So our great plan, immediately derailed. The Schwebebahn, aka the Fichtelberg cable car, had been reserved until two for a wedding. Well, there went our plans for a leisurely ascent in Germany's oldest cable car (built 1924). A few facts about the cable car: as I mentioned, it's Germany's oldest, built in 1924, with a hiatus from 1948-1956. It goes from the station in Oberwiesenthal at an elevation of 905 meters (2969 feet and change) to the peak of Fichtelberg at 1175 meters (3855 feet).

    The Fichtelberg is the highest peak in Saxony, the second highest in the Ore Mountains. Not a match for the peak we rode up to in the Alps, but high enough for our purposes on this trip. A change of plans was necessary, I didn't ride that old timey train all the way here not to get to the top of that mountain. So we decided we'd walk it. We had planned to hike down from the top, so knew there were open winter routes.

    It's a nice little ski resort, not yet in season. There were a lot of families with little kids and sleds (big wooden sleds on runners, not the plastic things we use here in the US), a couple snow boarders who were obviously just learning, and some cross country skiers, as the cross country slopes were the only ones open. We didn't let any of this dissuade us, nor the cold temperature or late hour of starting, and set off up the mountain.

    We had never hiked in snow before, and thankfully it wasn't a lot of snow and people had been there ahead of us. Still, it made it a bit more work than a regular trail. The elevation gain wasn't bad, nothing too steep, but it caught up with me after a while. We had one break to eat chocolate and peanuts, drink some water. Then another when I had to take off my boot and sock and bandage up a blister.

    There were a few huts enroute, and I was excited about that until we found the first one (long before the chocolate and blister breaks). I was expecting a Bavarian-style hut with a beer garden and et cetera. No. This was literally a hut, a little shelter. Maybe had some drinking water, we didn't look. Just as well. A delay like that would have hurt my morale later.

    By the time we got to the top, the novelty of this whole hiking in a winter wonderland had worn off. Big time. I was done: hungry, my blister-foot hurt, my formerly broken ankle was achy, and I was really salty at those wedding people for renting out the entire cable car for four hours when I wanted to use it.
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  • Day 17

    The Fichtelbergbahn

    December 12, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 27 °F

    Yes, we rented a car, but went by bus again. Today, we headed off to a town called Cranzahl to catch a steam train called the Fichtelbergbahn, one of three popular narrow gauge routes in Saxony. I have a thing for trains, all sorts. It was part one of our planned day. Steam train to Oberweisenthal, then the cable car/gondola up to the top of the mountain, then hike down.

    We got to the train station at the edge of the little town. We bought our tickets-- one way-- and then went to wander around and look for the bathroom. Then: the tour bus arrives. Filled to capacity. Well we know what that means, better get right to the bathroom before all the other ladies form a line. Then make sure to be on the platform because there were suddenly a lot of people.

    All went well. The tour bus people (and another bus had arrived while I was busy) were herded off. They ended up on their own cars. We watched the steam train come by and hook up. Then, we boarded and were off.

    It was a nice ride through a gently rising, snowy landscape. Sunny. A few little towns and rolling farmlands. There were some pretty dramatic curves, but we weren't far enough back to get a good shot of the engine through the window. There was one Wolpertinger sighting (see photo) a painting on the side of a shed by the tracks. A good omen. We could have stood on the open platforms between the cars (last photo), but I'm not that committed to bringing you great pictures.

    We arrived in Oberwiesenthal in good time. They took off the steam engine, moved it off and filled it with coal. While this was going on, another engine moved some cars around. Then, we set off to part two of our big day in the mountains.
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  • Day 85

    Annaberg-Buchholz, SN, Germany

    September 23, 2023 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    # Deutsch
    Von Chemnitz gehts weiter ins nahe Erzgebirge. Die Gegend um Annaberg-Buchholz, die Kultur und der Bergbau sind inzwischen sogar UNESCO-Weltkulturerbe. Die schöne Altstadt fühlt sich fast etwas deplaziert an, befindet sie sich doch inmitten dieser Hügellandschaft - "irgendwo im Nirgendwo". Auffällig sind die Dächer, welche alle traditionell mit Schiefer gedeckt sind - dies sei sogar in der Bauordnung so verankert, versichert mir eine Einheimische. Das Geheimnis des Reichtums der Stadt liegt jedoch unter ihr. Seit rund 800 Jahren gibt es Bergbau in dieser Gegend. Meist wurde dabei Silber abgebaut, in der DDR - Zeit kurzfristig auch Uran. In dieser einen Kleinstadt alleine gibt es rund 600 Bergwerke. Diese haben rund 600 Kilometer Tunnel unter dieser einen Stadt in den Berg getrieben - und das ist nur was kartografiert ist. Eine solche Silbermine besuche ich dann auch. Diese war um das Jahr 1500 in Betrieb. Speziell dabei: Man ist mitten in der Altstadt, geht in den Innenhof eines Gebäudes, und von da aus gehts runter. Die oberen 20 Meter sind besuchbar, der Stollen geht jedoch bis 104 Meter unter die Erdoberfläche. Deshalb gilt: wer in Annaberg-Buchholz ein Gebäude baut, muss erst Bohrungen durchführen, ob denn nicht gerade ein Stollen unter dem Fundament durchfürt. So wurde tatsächlich auch das Bergwerk entdeckt, in dem ich war - beim Bau einer Bank.

    # English
    From Chemnitz I continue to the nearby Erzgebirge mountains. The area around Annaberg-Buchholz, its culture and mining, is now even a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The beautiful old town almost feels a bit out of place, being in the middle of this hilly landscape - "somewhere in the middle of nowhere". The roofs are striking, all of which are traditionally covered with slate - this is even anchored in the building code, a local assures me. The secret of the town's wealth, however, lies beneath it. Mining has been going on in this area for about 800 years. Mostly silver was mined, but in the DDR era uranium was also mined for a short time. In this one small town alone there are about 600 mines. These have driven about 600 kilometres of tunnels into the mountain under this one town - and that is only what is mapped. I then visit one such silver mine. It was in operation around the year 1500. What is special about it is that you are in the middle of the old town, go into the courtyard of a building, and from there you go down. The upper 20 metres can be visited, but the gallery goes down to 104 metres below the surface. Therefore, anyone constructing a building in Annaberg-Buchholz must first drill to see if a tunnel is not running under the foundation. This is how the mine I was in was actually discovered - during the construction of a bank.
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  • Day 18

    Schwarzwassertal

    December 13, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 28 °F

    Or: We Didn't Learn Our Lesson Yesterday

    On the road again, this time from Annaberg Buchholz east (like the good German I am-- Drang nach Osten) through the Ore Mountains to the tiny village of Oberlochmühle in the neighborhood of Seiffen. But first: have to stop to hike a bit through the Schwarzwassertal (the Black Water Valley), a famous hiking route in the Erzgebirge.

    What's it famous for, you might ask? The black-appearing water for one. Die Teufelsmauer-- the Devil's Wall, yeah that guy has walls, rocks, even sandwiches, all over Germany. A variety of delicious and non-hallucinogenic mushrooms, if you come at the right time of year, that being September and we missed it.

    So we were here for die Teufelsmauer, having eaten his sandwich in Ramsau bei Berchtesgaden last trip. Also, just the general ambience. So off we went. We knew how far the wall should be because the signage is amazing on German trails. Usually. But I didn't check the phone when we started, and I didn't set it to kilometers.

    We walked along, knowing we should have reached it. Didn't see it. Nothing approaching it. So we walked at least two more kilometers before time was getting on, and we were getting hungry. We also had to get to the next place, a little pension that had very limited desk hours, by 2:30. So we turned around and headed back. We took pictures of everything that even had the appearance of something that could be called the Devil's Wall. We figured out what it was later-- the last two photos, which we took on our way back to the car.
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  • Day 16

    Schwarzenberg: Christmas markets

    December 11, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 30 °F

    About time, right? What is this trip supposed to be about?

    A few highlights: we tried Speckfettbrot-- yes, it's exactly what it sounds like bacon-fat-bread. I know the spread as griebenschmalz which I guess is the Bavarian name. It was good. Since I've yet to get my raw pork Mettbrotchen sandwich, this had to do. My football aka soccer team had a booth here. Merchandise was too expensive. I'm not paying twenty euros for a winter hat, thank you very much, even a purple hat with the crossed hammers that says Glück Auf on it.

    The Christmas pyramid here is made of metal, not wood. It's very pretty, and at night, it makes loud clanging noises as it turns. Warning: bad video incoming. On facebook, one of my neighbors asked me if I were bringing one like it back. Trepidation, I guess. I wish. I'd leave it up all year long and change out the figures seasonally.
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  • Day 16

    Perla Castrum III

    December 11, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 32 °F

    The toy exhibit, which contained toys from the 1920s through the DDR era. Toys are another thing in which I'm interested, from a socio-cultural history point of view. Having studied a lot of Medieval-Early Modern history, the development of the idea of modern childhood intrigues me. I especially liked the DDR dolls with the sexy mini skirt- knee high boots girls and the grouchy looking soldier or cop.Read more

  • Day 16

    Schwarzenberg Perla Castrum 2

    December 11, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 32 °F

    More from this great little museum. I think I'm really just amused by/interested in really strange things sometimes, which was also used as a prison at various points, hence the picture of the cell door, where they locked up artisans who took place in the Nail Revolt. Yes, the revolted against the introduction of nails produced by machines, as it put them out of work. And the 1930s washing machine-- I'm always interested in labor saving devices, and how recently they came into human history.

    The box after the automaton with the trumpet: that's the orchestra in a box. Someone put money in it when we were in the next room, so I tried to record a bit of it. As with all my videos: results are less than optimal.
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  • Day 16

    Schwarzenberg: the Perla Castrum

    December 11, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 32 °F

    The former castle turned hunting lodge is now a museum. We really liked it, so a lot of pictures incoming. It featured a great deal of local wood art, by a woodcarver named Harry Schmidt and his students, some of which were incredibly detailed and intricate. This exhibit included carvings place in walnuts, and on the heads of matchsticks.

    There was also local metal work, examples of bobbin lace work, mechanical toys and devices including an orchestra in a box and a full sized trumpet player, a history exhibit, and a special exhibit of toys. It was well done with some English text, but I got to read a lot of German, and didn't do as badly as I could have. The metal plate below shows a picture of Melanchthon, one of the Saxon rulers-- I completely forgot, and in the middle, Luther. There was also a wooden reproduction of the Furstenzug-- the wall of princes in Dresden, but the video didn't come out.
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  • Day 16

    Sankt Georgen

    December 11, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 30 °F

    The church that stands here now was built over a smaller one in the 1600s. That seems to be the way of things. This one, however, didn't undergo a re-Gothicization (I just made that word up) during the Nineteenth Century like a lot of other churches in Germany did. Since the 1500s, it's been a Lutheran church, and is a little bit bare, but still a worthwhile visit.Read more

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