Italy Vercelli

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  • Day 54

    VF Tag 12 Vercelli - Nicorvo 25,7km

    April 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    19.04.Sa VF Tag 12 Vercelli - Nicorvo 25,7 Km
    Ereignisloses Gehen durch die Poebene.
    Durch das Unwetter der letzten Tage sind die flachen Felder noch mit reichlich Wasser bedeckt.
    Aus dem netten Vercelli verabschieden wir uns über die Brücken über den Fiume Sesia, der nach dem Unwetter noch sehr hoch steht. Die Selbe wurde auch vom Hochwasser
    Beschädigt und zur Klärung der Tragkraft gesperrt.
    Wir Pilger bekamen von der örtlichen Verwaltung eine Ausnahme Genehmigung
    Die Arbeiter auf der Brücke wussten davon nichts, widerstanden unserem
    Eisernem Willen aber nicht. Man könnte auch sagen sie gaben klein bei. Zeigten
    uns die Linke Schulter und taten, das was ihre ganze Aufmerksamkeit
    Erforderte. Das Hochwasser, welches die Ebene flutete hat sich grossteils
    schon zurückgezogen nur die Felder waren noch geflutet.
    Wir liefen bis nach Palestro auf einem erhöhtem Damm trockenen Fußes hier war dann Schluss mit Damm laufen und folgten der Empfehlung unserer Unterkunft und gingen nach Palestro zu einer Kaffeepause. Den VF weiter zugehen wäre einer Schlammschlacht gleich gekommen. Der Damm weicht einem flachem Weg der verschlammt ist und mit Wasser überdeckt.
    Jetzt wurde es weniger lustig es geht an einer Strasse mit kleinem Randstreifen entlang. Die Autos kennen kein Erbarmen mit uns noch weniger deren Fahrer. Gefühlte 3 km ging das so.
    Wir setzen gesund zur Landung in in Robbio an. Gemeinsames Einkaufen, Mittagessen, weiter auf Alphalt-Service Strasse und tataaa Nicorvo. In der schönen kleinen Kirche den Etappenstempel ins Pilgerbuch gedrückt. Beim Hinaustreten standen schon die Damen vom Empfangskomitee bereit uns zu begrüssen.
    Ich verstehe mich nicht, ein ereignisloser Tag und so viel geschrieben. Tststs.
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  • Day 3

    Auf einen Cappuccino nach Novara

    October 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Kurz nachdem wir links abgebogen sind, wie es das Wetterorakel gefordert hat, geht's in Richtung Alpen.

    Sehr angenehm ist die Temperatur im Tunnel, den wir nutzen, um die Alpen zu durchfahren... 27 Grad, wir überlegen kurz, ob wir einfach hier übernachten sollen...

    Kurz danach landen wir in Novara, genauer gesagt in Vicolungo.

    Wir haben Pech (ääähm, Glück), das "Vicolungo the Style Outlets" hat bis 20 Uhr offen...

    Da wir Brot brauchen, gehen wir da kurz hin.

    (Anmerkung Christian: Wenn ihr bis 22 Uhr nichts von mir gehört habt, könnte bitte jemand kommen und mich retten?)
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  • Day 2

    Riso Paradiso

    June 11, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Nach dem die Sprache vom Navi von Suomi (Finnisch) wieder auf Deutsch eingestellt wurde, stand auch einer erfolgreichen Reise nichts mehr im Weg. 😅

    Gestartet in Galliate gings nach Novarra zum Sightseeing. Monticello, Palestro, Villanova und weitere kleine Dörfli durchfuhren wir bis es dann endlich nach rund 60km die erste stärkende Tomatenpasta in Confienza gab - noch nie hat Pasta soo lecker geschmeckt wie heute!

    Irgendwann verliessen wir dann die Strassen und folgten unzähligen Kilometer einem Feld- und Holperweg entlang dem Fluss Sesia, wo meilenweit saftgrüne Reisfelder zu sehen waren. Der Weg führte uns direkt nach Casale Monteferrato, wo es eiskaltes Bier, Apero und später noch dem Motto getreu ein Risotto geben wird.
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  • Day 14

    Day 10: Vercelli to Nicorvo

    May 2, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I awoke this morning to heavy rain. Luckily, it was pretty much stopped by the time I left. I still wore the Great Pumpkin as the forecast was for rain all day, which it did on and off. Despite the weather, the walk (26.66 km) was extremely pleasant and over mostly flat terrain. I have never been in an environment where there is so much water - there are water channels and canals (not large ones) everywhere you go. I met another Australian today who is doing the VF on his bike, but he can only do so for two weeks. I'm spending my first night in legitimate pilgrim accommodation, a donativo (Ospitalità Madonna del Patrocinio e San Terenziano)! It has everything a pilgrim could want (except WiFi), and the heater is excellent. There is one other pilgrim here also, but she disappeared soon after I arrived. I'm sure we'll get to chat at dinner as there is only one place to eat in town. Some highlights from the day: walking for ages on a raised road (which gave me a wonderful view) and seeing two darling little two carriage local trains go by.Read more

  • Day 13

    Day 9: Vercelli - rest day

    May 1, 2024 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    I've taken my first rest day, and as far as I'm concerned, it's was a day late. I walked five days last year on the VF and then took a rest day, which seemed a little wimpy, so I thought I would see how far I could go this time around before I needed a break and I've come to the conclusion that it's only six days of walking! Vercelli is a terrific place to stop for an extra day - it's a very attractive city. I didn't do a great deal of walking as it was raining, and I wasn't willing to share the Great Pumpkin with this world. It's May Day here, and I was treated to the town band in a square nearby, and the bell tower behind my accommodation tolled the most delightful tune this morning. I then popped into a church (Paul the Apostle) and sat through mass - there was the most beautiful singing; even a hymn I knew! After that, I visited a most beautiful church (Saint Bernardo and Santuaries of our Lady of the sick), the Basilica of Saint Andrea (the first Abbot is recorded at 1226!) and they appear to have a copy of the Magna Carta on display! My last church was the Cathedral of Saint Andrea. I gave up after that as the rain got too heavy.Read more

  • Day 12

    Day 8: Santhià to Vercelli

    April 30, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    The most positive thing I have to say about today is that the terrain was mostly flat and that the weather was terrific. The most appropriate word to use to describe the walk (27.9 km) would be monotonous. At one point, I abandoned the Way and took to the main road so that I could avoid rambling through yet more farmland - which shaved a good few km off the length of the walk (about 30 km). The farm houses along the way were of no structural interest, and you can only take so much of tilled earth fields or water soaked paddocks before you are over them. Funnily enough, I had toyed with the idea of taking the train from Santhià to Vercelli because of how spent I'd been the day before. I'm not saying I wish I had, as there were some real highlights to the day, but I am saying that if you were to take the train, you wouldn't be missing much. I met a really lovely couple in the village of San Germano Vercellese, and while we were chatting in the park, two pilgrims doing the VF in reverse came by. Their end point is Lausanne. Now for the highlights: unbelievably, the church was open this morning before 8 am! I was so glad I checked on my way out of town. Again, I had to help myself to light up the crypt (Saint Stefano), and it was worth seeing. The next two highlights happened when I was walking on the main road: I saw what I believe is a marmot as the tail was thin (I now know this to be a Coypu) swimming in the Naviglia di Ivrea, and I startled a snake in the grass on the roadside! It was about 1/2 a metre in length and may have been a barred grass snake, which is non venomous, but it set my heart pounding! No photos, I'm afraid.Read more

  • Day 1

    Tankpause

    December 27, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Einmal nachtanken, Auto sauber machen, einen Happen essen und den angesamelten Güsel entsorgen.
    Das ganze bei strahlend blauem Himmel in der Po Ebene, zur rechten die Berge angezuckert und im Schatten 5 Grad.Read more

  • Day 3

    Superstore

    October 6, 2024 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Ich lebe noch, ihr könnt die Suche einstellen 😜.

    Wir haben sogar zwischen den ganzen Läden mit den komischen Namen einen Bialetti - Shop gefunden und etwas sinnvolles gekauft. Tolle Sache, die große Kanne!

    Nachdem es in dem blöden Outlet allerdings keinen Bäcker gab, wir aber dringend noch Brot brauchen, folgt der nächste Stop zugleich...
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  • Day 55

    Vercelli 17 miles

    September 5, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Diy breakfast as in our host dropped off a couple of croissants in my apartment before I got up and we had them and coffee, orange juice etc. Headed out of town which was a lot livelier at 9am on a Tuesday than it had been on a Monday early evening. It seems Italy really doesn’t do Mondays very much at all.

    Got to thinking about birds today. Started when we stopped in the only potential feeding station of the day. Had a cheese and ham toastie and juice and then went to the loo as is my want. Standing there when my eye was drawn to a Pirelli style pin-up of a young lady. How very sexiest I thought until I noticed that, for the ladies, who I believe invariably sit on these occasions, on the opposite wall and at a suitably reduced height was a poster of a rather scantily clad gentleman who allegedly works as a fireman. That’s all right then.

    Later on while wandering endlessly through rice field after rice field I noticed the other type of birds. The ones that fly. Got to wondering how they work out flying together. Firstly you have the geese flying south for winter. How do they decide who is going to lead? Do they take votes? Does it go to the oldest? Or is it like our royal family? The leader hands the leadership down to one of his bairns. Is there a crown or a fancy feather? And do they bicker over who is going to fly next to the head burd. Lords and ladies etc.

    Then we have the ones I saw today where you have half a dozen taking off together. Is there a Biggles in charge who makes the decision to take-off? How does he or she communicate with the others? Or does he/she simply start engines as it were and the rest go “help ma bob, we’re off” and make chase? I could go on (and on) but you get my drift. The mind wanders a little when the feet are just plodding left, right, repeat. This was a little like the flat lands of France but with a lot more farms, roads, railways etc.

    Walking with someone is very different to walking alone. You can’t really bang in Desert Island Discs. Bit anti-social even by my standards. But being male, talk is not continuous. There are big chunks of silence. Not a concept that I would expect females to really understand or am I being sexist now?

    Tonight’s hostel is, I think, the first I have come across being run by pilgrims for pilgrims. The couple in charge are looking after it for a week and then someone else takes over. They prepared an evening meal and will also do breakfast. At 7am unbelievably. Why? Anyway dinner was lovely. Veggie which made a pleasant change from most of the food so far. And as a real treat for everyone I made use of the washing machine & tumble dryer. My walking t-shirt and shorts have been worn every day for the last 8 weeks or so and I thought at was maybe about time they got something more than my effort at hand-washing. Slight concern that the dryer will reduce them to unwearable as that would mean the clothes I am currently wearing (you will be pleased to learn) are the only things I could wear. Bit limited.
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  • Day 54

    Santhia 23 miles

    September 4, 2023 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Early start as this is one of the longest days of the whole walk. It seemed there was only 3 of us in the hostel, which can probably accommodate dozens. We raided the “help yourself” stores for a banana. There had been two but our lady friend from before left before 7am and grabbed the other one. That kept us going until we hit a cafe for a cappuccino and croissant (filled with raspberry jam). Very nice and only about 6€ for both of us.

    Yesterday we left the Alps and so the terrain is much flatter. I think by tomorrow it is completely flat but today’s hills were very gentle. The work today was all about distance covered, mostly on tarmac, and the heat. Suspect it is back up about 30C.

    Had to go a little off route to get somewhere for lunch. A wee bar serving toasted focaccia filled with ham and cheese and bottled water. Again great value and just what was needed.

    Tonight we are in a BnB. As usual you have no idea in advance what to expect. I had tried to book single rooms but by the time we arrived we were so knackered we would have accepted (almost) anything. Initial signs weren’t great. A block of flats. Pressed the buzzer and the lady unlocked the door and said she was on the 4th floor. She waited until we had almost reached her, took about 10 minutes, and then asked why we hadn’t taken the lift. Turned out that she had 2 one bedroom apartments for us so we didn’t just have our own room but our own apartment. Very comfortable.

    I asked for a restaurant suggestion to which she said words to the effect of “not on a Monday”. She then decided one might be open and she would phone to check. Came back to say that it was shut except for hotel guests but she had negotiated to allow us to eat on the basis that we were pilgrims staying with her. Ended up very confusing and we had far too much food, although it tasted fine and was reasonably priced.
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