Portugal Alvorge

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  • Day 16

    Rabaçal

    May 9 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    It was already past 7 when I started my last section which was surprisingly still 12km!
    However, I was not too worried: My accommodation was already reserved and I had done a small beer tasting on the way which gave me an extra good mood (though I did not really like any of the portuguese beers so far 🤢).

    Additionally...look at the pictures! This is what I came here for! Solitary ways, breath-taking views and this wonderful sound of silence after those long sections along busy streets. I didn't see a single soul on the last 12km to my hostel and truely enjoyed the twittering of the birds, all the colorful flowers whose names I don't know and watching the sunset.

    It was so peaceful, I was close to spread my sleeping bag on the grass and sleep on one of the meadows.
    Somehow the albergue still admitted me at 9:30pm so I did not do it 😂

    But honestly: If I knew that my sleeping spot would be in a refugee-camp like something (they called it "pavillon" on the phone which is way too romantic for a mattress on the cold floor), I could as well have slept outside 😂
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  • Day 13

    Roman Ruins at Conímbriga

    May 6 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Before checking in at my albergue I visited the Roman ruins at Conímbriga. The mosaic floors were amazing.

    Here's more about the site:
    https://www.coimbraportugaltourism.com/guide/co…
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  • Day 12

    Camino Day Nine

    May 5 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Alvaiázere to Alvorge
    ~22.7 km/14 miles

    I walked by myself all day, which was kind of nice. I enjoy walking with others, but it's nice to walk at my own pace, and stop to take photos or rest when it suits me.

    There was a light rain most of the morning, and a lot of mud on the trail. My sandals and socks were covered with mud, so the only thing to do was to walk through some clear water when I found it.

    There are so many crumbling buildings in the area that add to the landscape that I enjoy taking pictures of, so that was sort of the focus for today when I wasn't sloshing in the mud.

    I stopped for breakfast in Ansião which had a lot of interesting public art.

    I'm staying at a very nice albergue in Alvorge where I was tempted by the single private room. It was a good choice as the dorm is full of guys.

    We all had a really good dinner of pork, rice, salad, dessert and wine for only €10!

    Evan from Australia is here along with two Germans, an Italian, and a Korean man who has walked many Caminos.
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  • Day 11

    Camino Day Eight

    May 4 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Calvinos to Alvaiázere
    ~21.25 km/13.2 miles

    The theme of the day was rain!
    I walked today with Evan from Australia who was in the albergue last night.

    First a light drizzle, then real rain and the donning of rain gear. Then the sun would come out and my poncho became a sauna suit, so off it would come. Only for it to start raining again 15 minutes later. This went on all day. Fortunately it wasn't a long day of walking. We arrived in Alvaiázere around 12:30.

    Today brought more hills and eucalyptus forests. At least we were rewarded with some nice views after the hill climbing.

    I couldn't check into my accommodation until 3 pm, so I went looking for something to eat while I waited. I found Evan had the same idea and had just arrived at one of the two restaurants that were open on a Sunday. My hotel has a restaurant, but it's closed today.

    We decided that we should go for a pretty big meal since there might not be anything available later on today. The specialty of the place was pork and we thought that we had both ordered pork but somehow we got a portion of pork and a portion of bacalhau (cod) . It turned out that the bacalhau was really the better choice of the two. With the fish and pork we also got chips, French fries, rice, salad, bread, olives, and something called migas which was bread mixed with some sort of greens and beans - quite delicious. There was enough left over that I can have it tonight and/or tomorrow for breakfast!
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  • Day 12

    DAY 8 - Over the Hills and...

    April 26 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    pictures and videos.loaded for previous days as O Bras also didn't have their wifi working.

    Lots of elevation change today. Definitely more technical than previous days. Less paved road more hiking trails - rocky hiking trails. Also saw probably 5 dozen or more pilgrims heading to Fatima. Busy day on the Camino from the quietness of past days. Lot more bikers as well.

    It is planting season and there are many small farmers planting their crops, tilling the soil, and sowing their seed.

    My accommodations were a bit off the Camino today and I stayed the course overshooting my resting place by quite a bit and doubling back. Just following those signs! I’ll take tomorrow off and go to mass and enjoy a day of rest.
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  • Day 17

    Day 14 - Forced semi-rest day

    April 19 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    “My relationship with my body has changed. I used to consider it as a servant who should obey, function, give pleasure. In sickness, you realise that you are not the boss. It is the other way around.”—-Federico Fellini

    Okay, I had to cry uncle. My head is stuffy, nose is running, throat is raw, can’t stop sneezing and coughing, and I’m cold to the bone. The rain continues and the winds have kicked up

    The rain these past 4-5 days has slowed our pace and we need to be in Porto by April 22nd. So to get back on track we took a short train ride to Sao Joa da Madeira and planned to do a quick 5 mile walk to our hotel in Malposta. But as the train wheels went clackity-clack, my body screamed ‘WTF, are you a quack? Hit the sack you fool’ so instead we got a ride from the station to the hotel and here I lie under a pile of blankets to get warm at 5p. It’s thundering outside and I’m skipping dinner and going to sleep

    So hoping the cough syrup, throat stuff, and ibuprofen do their magic overnight and I get back on track

    No sympathy wanted, just send some sunshine, dry weather, and positive vibes.
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  • Day 15

    Day 12 - Coimbra!

    April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    “One of the great things about travel is that you find out how many good, kind people there are.” – Edith Wharton.

    This morning we bid adieu to our friend Jan, while he was also going to Coimbra, he got an earlier start than us. The day was not quite as rainy as the past few days, but rain plagued us nevertheless. Degree wise it was a little warmer but walking in the rain the last 3 days has given me a sore throat and slight cold, so happy to have a rest day in Coimbra tomorrow.

    Due to rain didn’t take many pictures today. But while walking through Condeixa-A-Velha, we met a kind older gentleman named Anthony. He yelled at us to stop and hurriedly crossed the street with his walker to talk to us. He spoke a little English but wanted to know where we were from and if we were going to Santiago. He was so happy that we were walking the Camino and kissed each of our hands and cheeks while wishing us a Buen Camino and good journey in life.

    Had lunch in a small cafe in Cernache. When we asked the delightful owner if he served lunch, he said of course and fixed us a ham, cheese, and butter sandwich. I think that is all they eat for lunch, but I admit they are quite tasty when taking a break during a day of walking.

    We have rented a small 2br/2ba apartment in Coimbra. It is quite lovely and in the old town area with several cafes and restaurants that we can walk to. However, the first place we went was to the laundromat.

    Tonight we had dinner at a little Portuguese restaurant that only seats 10 and is located up the street from our rental. I don’t think I’ve had one bad meal in Portugal, all the food has been tasty, and tonight was one of the best meals so far. The other thing I find interesting is how inexpensive food is here.

    Tomorrow I’ll explore Coimbra and hope to see a ‘Procession of the dead Lord’ tomorrow on Good Friday. Saturday we will resume our trek to Porto to meet Arlene’s husband, sister, and sister-in-law and then continue on to Santiago.
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  • Day 14–18

    Birth

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Forty nine years ago today, I gave birth to my first son, Jeffrey. I remember every moment of that day as if it were yesterday. It was a day that not only changed the course of my life, but changed me as a person. It wasn't only Jeff being born that day, a new version of Arlene was born. I remember thinking the pain was something I could never imagine doing again, and yet I was somehow able to forget it after all and remember only the good that came into my life, this wonderful person who entered my life, but also this newer improved person I had become.
    As I walk this Camino, putting myself through all this pain , purposely walking and climbing further than it feels my body can endure, I cannot imagine ever doing this again. And yet, like after childbirth, each night i remember I was in pain but I forget what it actually felt like. What stays with me is the pride I feel for being able to do this, the new appreciation I feel for all they beauty in this world, both in nature and people, the overwhelming gratitude i feel to be able to enjoy this. And there is something else that I cannot quite name growing in me and changing me. And instinctively, i know whatever this thing is, I will cherish it as much as I do my role as mother. There is a reason people have been doing this walk for centuries, some people multiple times. I am beginning to understand why. We all forget the physical pain and only remember the wonder.

    Tonight I am in Cominbriga after yet another day of hills and rain. But today was maybe the most beautiful day on the Camino so far. I walked with a sense of peace and serenity that I cannot remember ever feeling before. I also experienced my first donativo. A donativo is a gift someone makes to a pilgrim to support them on their way. If the pilgrim can make a donation to help support future giving, he can. If he cannot, he doesn't. The donativo i came across offered water coffee or tea, cookies and fruit, and a shelter and chairs to rest for a bit. There were also little shrines and places to meditate or pray. It was lovely, and every pilgrim I met there, with the exception of the pilgrim running the donativo, I had already met and recognized. Tonight I am sleeping in a dorm with 8 other people and I have a bottom bunk. Jayme and I went to dinner with a man from the Netherlands, the only other English speaker in the dorm. We ate at Tenesee's, burgers and wings! I am looking forward to Porto and some fish. It is all meat here in south!
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  • Day 14

    Day 11 - Look deep into nature…

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    “Look deep into nature, and then you will start to understand everything better”—-Albert Einstein

    Today we went from Ribeira de Alcalamouque to Conimbriga, which is famous for its Roman ruins. Despite the rain, it was a good walk, a combination of the body getting used to the daily challenges I am putting it through and the hills were not as steep.

    We ran into more pilgrims today, but a few that we see frequently. 2 girls from the Netherlands, La from South Korea, and Jan from the Netherlands.

    Tonight we are at an auberge with 10 beds and luckily we reserved 2 beds this morning because they are full and our friend from South Korea had to keep walking. But our other fellow pilgrim Jan is here. We met him on the first day of the Camino and said if we ever happened to be at the same place we would share a bottle of wine. So tonight Jan, Arlene, and I went out to dinner and shared some wine. Jan told us all about his life and his husband back home. He is nurse anesthesiologist and has done the Camino a few times before but never the French Way. He prefers the other routes because they are less populated with pilgrims

    The weather was quite chilly today and rainy. Cafes or restaurants on this section are very hard to find, so you pack a lunch, but with this weather you do crave a hot tea to warm yourself up. So it was a pleasant surprise to come across a rest stop on a country road that offered hot coffee, tea, and biscuits for a donation. The stop was actually a memorial to the 3 children of Fatima and former pilgrims volunteer to greet people on the Camino and offer them a place to sit for a bit and have some refreshments.

    Tomorrow we head to Coimbra which used to be the capital of Portugal. We also plan on taking a rest day which I am looking forward to!
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  • Day 13–18

    Double post tomorrow

    April 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    I wrote nearly the whole of today's post and dropped my phone and lost it! Too tired to redo now, but I will catch up tomorrow.
    Good night!

    I need to make this short so I can post tonight's footprint, so short story....
    SO much more rain, including two thunderstorms. SO many more hills, I commented to someone tonight that I feel like I should be in heaven by now, I keep climbing and barely walk downhill. But the beauty! It is bountiful!
    The day ended in a tiny albergus with 4 beds. We stayed with Mano from France. He was up and out before we woke up! Anyway, the albergue was a bunkhouse attached to a family home. We ate dinner in their home and they brought us breakfast in our bunkhouse. Dinner may have been the best food since arriving in Portugal.tomato and pumpkin soup, bread, olives, cabbage cooked Dutch style, big salad, mashed potatoes and a gravy with mushrooms and small chunks of beef, something good but I am not remembering and fresh fruit for dessert.
    I slept in the top bunk and needed to get up to pee 3 times. Challenging
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