Portugal Condeixa-a-Nova

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  • Day 13

    Roman Ruins at Conímbriga

    May 6 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Before checking in at my albergue I visited the Roman ruins at Conímbriga. The mosaic floors were amazing.

    Here's more about the site:
    https://www.coimbraportugaltourism.com/guide/co…
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  • Day 13

    Day 9 - Trust the Plan

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    I am often reminded that I am not in control. Although someone I once knew had a saying - if you are not in control, you are out of control. And, if you are out of control, you are not in control. He was massively always in control, until he wasn’t. May he rest in peace.

    Who actually believed I would simply Uber to the next town to attend mass? And not walk The Camino.

    God has a way of reminding me to trust! It was an hour walk to mass this morning. I had late breakfast at 9 and headed out. 30 minutes into my walk, I happened upon The Camino. So, I decided to forego mass and stay on the camino for the day. The Camino took me directly past the church just after mass started. Of course, I stopped in - prayed for everyone and got communion. After mass, a festival started with a procession through traffic. What a great way to start the day.

    The Camino took me through beautiful countryside and over foothills to Conteixa Nova, which is known for Roman ruins. Of course, I had to finish off the day with an Italian meal - a place with a 4.9 rating! The pizza was magnificent, and the pasta was even better. Homemade Italian sausage hit the spot.

    Met several pilgrims today - Mark, Mark and Cathy from Canada. I loved Marks hat - it was red with white lettering saying Canada is not for sale! Hah! We criss crossed paths all day, taking breaks along The Way. I met a fellow pilgrim - Rachel - who booked through Tee Travel and pretty much has the same itinerary up porto. She is traveling with Tammy but is on separate itineraries with differing stopovers. It is good to see a familiar face after a long day of walking/hiking.

    What is it with those chemtrails? I could literally see them forming into clouds.
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  • Day 15

    Day 12 - Coimbra!

    April 17 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    “One of the great things about travel is that you find out how many good, kind people there are.” – Edith Wharton.

    This morning we bid adieu to our friend Jan, while he was also going to Coimbra, he got an earlier start than us. The day was not quite as rainy as the past few days, but rain plagued us nevertheless. Degree wise it was a little warmer but walking in the rain the last 3 days has given me a sore throat and slight cold, so happy to have a rest day in Coimbra tomorrow.

    Due to rain didn’t take many pictures today. But while walking through Condeixa-A-Velha, we met a kind older gentleman named Anthony. He yelled at us to stop and hurriedly crossed the street with his walker to talk to us. He spoke a little English but wanted to know where we were from and if we were going to Santiago. He was so happy that we were walking the Camino and kissed each of our hands and cheeks while wishing us a Buen Camino and good journey in life.

    Had lunch in a small cafe in Cernache. When we asked the delightful owner if he served lunch, he said of course and fixed us a ham, cheese, and butter sandwich. I think that is all they eat for lunch, but I admit they are quite tasty when taking a break during a day of walking.

    We have rented a small 2br/2ba apartment in Coimbra. It is quite lovely and in the old town area with several cafes and restaurants that we can walk to. However, the first place we went was to the laundromat.

    Tonight we had dinner at a little Portuguese restaurant that only seats 10 and is located up the street from our rental. I don’t think I’ve had one bad meal in Portugal, all the food has been tasty, and tonight was one of the best meals so far. The other thing I find interesting is how inexpensive food is here.

    Tomorrow I’ll explore Coimbra and hope to see a ‘Procession of the dead Lord’ tomorrow on Good Friday. Saturday we will resume our trek to Porto to meet Arlene’s husband, sister, and sister-in-law and then continue on to Santiago.
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  • Day 14–18

    Birth

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Forty nine years ago today, I gave birth to my first son, Jeffrey. I remember every moment of that day as if it were yesterday. It was a day that not only changed the course of my life, but changed me as a person. It wasn't only Jeff being born that day, a new version of Arlene was born. I remember thinking the pain was something I could never imagine doing again, and yet I was somehow able to forget it after all and remember only the good that came into my life, this wonderful person who entered my life, but also this newer improved person I had become.
    As I walk this Camino, putting myself through all this pain , purposely walking and climbing further than it feels my body can endure, I cannot imagine ever doing this again. And yet, like after childbirth, each night i remember I was in pain but I forget what it actually felt like. What stays with me is the pride I feel for being able to do this, the new appreciation I feel for all they beauty in this world, both in nature and people, the overwhelming gratitude i feel to be able to enjoy this. And there is something else that I cannot quite name growing in me and changing me. And instinctively, i know whatever this thing is, I will cherish it as much as I do my role as mother. There is a reason people have been doing this walk for centuries, some people multiple times. I am beginning to understand why. We all forget the physical pain and only remember the wonder.

    Tonight I am in Cominbriga after yet another day of hills and rain. But today was maybe the most beautiful day on the Camino so far. I walked with a sense of peace and serenity that I cannot remember ever feeling before. I also experienced my first donativo. A donativo is a gift someone makes to a pilgrim to support them on their way. If the pilgrim can make a donation to help support future giving, he can. If he cannot, he doesn't. The donativo i came across offered water coffee or tea, cookies and fruit, and a shelter and chairs to rest for a bit. There were also little shrines and places to meditate or pray. It was lovely, and every pilgrim I met there, with the exception of the pilgrim running the donativo, I had already met and recognized. Tonight I am sleeping in a dorm with 8 other people and I have a bottom bunk. Jayme and I went to dinner with a man from the Netherlands, the only other English speaker in the dorm. We ate at Tenesee's, burgers and wings! I am looking forward to Porto and some fish. It is all meat here in south!
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  • Day 13

    Rain, Rain

    March 28, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    It was a rainy 22 km's again today. When I arrived at Conimbriga, most of my stuff was very damp. At the hostel tonight, many of the people that I have met on and off were all at the same place tinight. Skyler from the USA, the girl from germany, Karen from Holland, and Alex from the Ukraine are all here. Since everybody had wet stuff, Alex found a drycleaners near us. We all put our stuff together and took it there. They washed everything and dryed it for 8.00 euro! So we all will have dry socks for the morning! Skyler was set on getting an american style burger from a restaurant that he had heard about. We all went and had burgers. So everything clean and dry tonight in this cozy albergue. Tomorrow Coimbra!Read more

  • Day 16

    Condeixa-a-Velha

    May 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Thinking that today's leg is rather short, I really took my time and only started walking around 2pm.
    Today, I finally felt the 'Camino-magic' again! My hike lead me through beautiful small villages, along apricot and mandarin trees. I could marvel at cottages with gardens laid out with love!
    When reaching the city of Condeixa-a-Velha, I passed the Ruínas de Conímbriga and started my final section of today.
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  • Day 20

    Conimbriga

    May 6, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Conímbriga ist eine seit der Kupferzeit gegründete Siedlung, die während der Römischen Republik ein wichtiges Zentrum war und mindestens bis zum 9. Jh. bewohnt war . 
    Von Coimbra aus dort hinzukommen, geht def.
    leicht mit Auto oder Wohnwagen. Es gibt keinen Zug direkt dorthin, nur 2x am Tag einen Bus der FA. Trandev , konnte ich nur im Internet recherchieren, aber nicht die Uhrzeit und von wo genau. So begab ich mich in aller Früh zum Bahnhof Coimbra, nicht Coimbra B und fragte mich dort bei den Bussen durch. Nicht mal die eigenen Fahrer wissen das, bis ich einen traf, der mir den Typ gab, zw. 8 Uhr und 8:30 gegenüber dem Taxistand. Und dieser Bus ist mit Condeixa / Condeixa-a-Nova als Ziel gekennzeichnet. Der Fahrer sagte mir dann, der Bus zurück kommt um ca 13 Uhr 20. Also blieb mir nicht soviel Zeit, obwohl man dort sicher einen ganzen Tag verbringen kann.
    Es war voll interessant und dann ging's nach Porto, obwohl ich nur vorhatte, nach Mealhada zu fahren und von dort weiterzugehen bis Lendiosa. Dort gibt es ein Hostel. Auf dem Weg dorthin, kamen mir schon arg viele Pilger in Gruppen entgegen, OK die kommen aus der anderen Richtung.
    Aber leider war das Hostel und alle anderen in der Umgebung auch belegt. Warum, klar v. 4. bis 10.5. machen die Spanier den Fatimaweg und haben wieder alles reserviert als Gruppe. Also wieder zurück nach Mealhada, eine Station bis Pampilhosa und von dort nach Porto. Dort hatte ich schon Hostel reserviert. Lag super gleich 2 min von Metro entfernt, mit der ich nur 2 Stationen fahren musste.
    Ein ereignisreicher Tag, aber wunderschön und vor allem sonnig und warm.
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  • Day 4

    Roman Ruins, old University & Fado Music

    March 6, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Our hotel tonight (Conimbriga Hotel do Paço) was once the Almadas Palace, a royal residence dating back to the 14th century. It underwent extensive renovation 30 years ago to turn it into an historic hotel.

    This morning we had a short drive to the Roman ruins of Conímbriga. The site is one of the largest Roman settlements identified in Portugal. To date, less than 20% has been excavated. Romans occupied the site from the 1st century BC until the mid-5th century when they were pushed out by Germanic armies. The wall outlines of a few homes had been excavated, and some nice mosaic floor tiles were reconstructed, but most impressive was the Casa dos Repuxos (house of fountains). This was an aristocratic residence dating from the 2nd century AD, which was built with a complex lead-pipe hydraulic system that fed several fountains and ornamental pools. The house also has a rich set of mosaics depicting mythological, geometric and plant scenes.

    We continued with an exploration of Coimbra, the first capital city of Portugal. There we toured the oldest university in Portugal, the University of Coimbra. The site was a former royal palace until 1290 when the king realized he needed to start a university to stem the brain drain of students attending foreign universities (on Portuguese funding) and then not returning home. We visited the university prison (for naughty students!), the library, chapel, and other palace rooms converted for academic use.

    We then walked over to a local fado house for a performance of this traditional music of Portugal. This expressive, often melancholic Portuguese folk music tradition, is sometimes referred to as “Lisbon blues” because “fado” means “fate” and songs are often nostalgic or sad. Coimbra has their own take on this genre, using it for wooing lovers, and some of the songs were definitely on the more upbeat side. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to take videos to share with you.
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  • Day 5

    Partenza! Giorno 5

    May 8, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Partiamo verso le 7.30.
    Facciamo un percorso alternativo. Il cammino passa dai campi, ma noi, essendo pellegrini atipici, preferiamo puntare verso il centro del paese, ed esattamente alla pastelleria per fare colazione.
    Il caldo si sente già, quindi dopo poco cambiamo assetto vestiario e ci spalmiamo di crema solare.
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  • Day 4

    Principia il culturale

    May 7, 2024 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Finisce il ricreativo, principia il culturale!
    Approfittiamo per andare a vedere i resti della città di Conimbriga, la città romana meglio conservata della penisola Iberica.
    Notevoli i mosaici.
    Siamo però abbastanza lessi… quindi dopo la visita, cerveja al bar del museo e rientro in ostello per riposarci prima di cena!
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