Portugal Tamel

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  • Day 9

    Apúlia

    May 2 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Also for tonight, I had already pre-booked my accommodation so I knew exactly where my way would lead me today. I actually intended to start early and to kill as many kilometers as I can seeing that rain is expected from the early afternoon onwards.
    However, I preferred to sleep and I still felt a bit weak from yesterday's walk so I needed to stop in a café to drink my remedy ☕️.
    After that, it all went way smoother and I especially liked that the indications in "my" directions were pretty good (blue arrows).
    However, the second half of today's leg was again pretty heavy since I mostly walked on cobblestone again 😩
    However, I arrived to my pilgrims hostel at some point, and again it is a very cosy place to stay. Fingers crossed that all the snorers chose different accommodations 🤭
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  • Day 8

    Viana do Castelo

    May 1 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The final kilometers to Viana de Castelo were exhausting for my feet since they lead me through cobblestone roads most of the time.
    However, after reaching my destination of today, I took some rest and treated me to a nice dinner after mostly living on supermarket stuff and tostadas (😩) the last days. And kook at the last picture...these guys serve white wine from the tap 😂Read more

  • Day 8

    Vila Praia de Âncora & Afife

    May 1 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Within 10 minutes, the ferry crossed Rio Miño which is the border between Spain and Portugal. And within 10 minutes, I gained 60 minutes since there is 1 hour time difference between the 2 countries.

    I felt a bit sad to leave Spain and honestly, I had a hard time today to not speak Spanish to the people here 😂 I got so used to it during the last weeks 🥲
    On the other hand, I was curious to see Portugal for the very first time in my life!
    Definitely, Portugal made some impression on me on the very first kilometers! After passing the first city and its suburbs with luxurious houses, I followed a path along the sea which is - you will know already - the most beautiful facet of the pilgrimage for me!
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  • Day 5

    5.4 Weiter geht's nach Barcelos 🐓

    April 29 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Barcelos ist bekannt durch die Keramikarbeiten🀄 und die Pilgergeschichte 📖 um einen gebratenen Hahn 🐓, der zu einem bekannten Symbol für Portugal geworden ist.

    Und hier die Geschichte 📖 vom Hahn von Barcelos 🐓:
    Ein Jakobspilger 🥾 aus Galicien soll fälschlicherweise eines Verbrechens beschuldigt worden sein. Trotz seiner Unschuldsbeteuerungen 🙏 wurde er zum Tode durch Erhängen ➰ verurteilt 👩‍⚖️.
    Dem Richter 👩‍⚖️, der gerade beim Festmahl saß, versicherte der verurteilte Pilger in seiner letzten Anhörung: "Es ist so sicher, dass ich unschuldig bin, wie dieser Hahn 🐓 (nämlich der, den der Richter auf dem Teller liegen hatte) krähen wird, wenn man mich hängt".
    Als man den Pilger hängte ➰, stand der Hahn 🐓 wie vorhergesagt auf und krähte.
    Der Richter 👩‍⚖️ ließ den Pilger abhängen, der dank einer zu locker gebundenen Schlinge ➰ überlebt hatte.
    Der Pilger 🥾 verließ umgehend und ohne Blessuren die Stadt. Er kehrte aber nach langer Zeit zurück, aus Dankbarkeit 🙏 für den Schutz durch die heilige Jungfrau
    Maria 😇, der er seine Rettung zuschrieb und errichtete ein Kreuz ✝️.

    Interessant, oder...?

    Und nun von der Legende zur Realität..., werfen mal einen Blick auf 👀 und um 👀 Barcelos.

    Wir laufen zunächst Richtung Fluß, später dann in die Innenstadt. Weil wir schon vorhin beim Überqueren der Brücke die mit Lichterketten 💡geschmückten Straßen 🎋 und Häuser gesehen haben, werden wir bis zur Dämmerung oder sogar bis zum Abend ⭐✨⭐ ausharren.
    Da ist doch was im Gange...🫢

    Und tatsächlich findet in der Zeit vom 30. April bis 05. Mai das "Festa das Cruzes" (Fest der Kreuze), eine große Wallfahrt in Barcelos statt.
    In der Altstadt ist eine Kirmes aufgebaut 🎠. Hier holen wir uns erstmal was zu essen. Für mich wird's heute Abend ein Kebab 🥙. Mmhh..., sieht nicht nur lecker 🤤 aus, schmeckt tatsächlich auch 😋.

    Wir sehnen die Dunkelheit ✨🌟✨ herbei..., plötzlich fangen sämtliche Lichterketten 💡an zu leuchten.
    Mei Gott..., was für ein Zauber 🧚.

    Sehr mitgerissen von dieser bezaubernden Beleuchtung 🪄 beschließen Birgit und ich unsere
    Heia aufzusuchen 😔💤🛏️💤😔, denn

    WENN ES AM SCHÖNSTEN IST, DANN SOLL MAN GEHEN!
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  • Day 5

    5.1 Weiter geht's nach Barcelos 🐓

    April 29 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Der Strom 🔌💡und auch die Internetverbindungen 📳 sind über Nacht zurückgekehrt 🙏.
    Prima, die Sorge, dass keine Internetverbindung 🛜 auf unserer Wanderung 🥾 nach Barcelos besteht, sind wir los.
    Zum Frühstück gibt's Kaffee ☕, frische Brötchen, Marmelade 🫙 und Honig 🍯. Wir treffen auf drei weitere Pilger 🥾 mit denen wir gestern schon ein paar Worte 🗣️ gewechselt haben.
    Jetzt am Frühstückstisch 🥐☕ findet ein reger und fröhlicher Austausch statt.
    Alle laufen heute bis Barcelos, sind gespannt, wen wir später wiedertreffen 🫂.

    Gegen 9.00 Uhr 🕘 geht's los, sind tatsächlich im Vergleich zu den Tagen davor, spät gestartet.
    ABER..., WIR SIND NICHT AUF DER FLUCHT 😜.

    Wir verlassen das Dorf 🏘️ und es geht bergauf 🔼 und bergab 🔽 über Wald- und Feldwege, überqueren Landstraßen und laufen entlang verschiedener Ortsstraßen.
    Hier und da Monolithen mit Kilometerangabe darüber, wie weit es noch nach Santiago de Compostela ✝️ ist.
    Wir entscheiden uns, einen Schlenker über die Anhöhe zur Kirche "Santa da Franqueira" zu machen.
    Es geht entlang einer Straße steil ⬆️ bergauf durch Waldgebiet 🌳🌳. Der Ginster leuchtet in grellem Gelb 💛und sein Duft..., betörend.

    Gleich haben wir's geschafft..., die Anhöhe über 282 Meter (laut Wanderführer) 🫡.
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  • Day 6

    Signs and symbols

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    What an amazing day! We walked 24+k, from Vila Cha to Esposende. We left last night's pension called siglas y runas. All the decor was dedicated to the history of fishers in Portugal. Again the ocean was our morning companion and we were grateful there was no headwind today, just beautiful sunshine. By lunchtime we were heading inland and began to see the changes to rural farmland and then eucalyptus forests. Wild olive trees and so much jasmine...the air a wonderful and fresh mix.
    It is essential to always be looking for sign markers that show the way and the Camino is such a deep part of the the culture here that the residents say 'Buen Camino peregrino' as you pass by.
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  • Day 7–8

    Central route now in Ponte de Lima

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    First night in albergue and got to use my silk bed liner, blanket and microfiber towel finally and all worked great! We rented a Bolt vehicle driver to take us about 40 miles inland to catch the Camino Central Route and he dropped us off in town of Vitorino where we had a light breakfast before we began walking.

    Terrain very different here from ocean breeze and boardwalks to cobblestones, hills, rural countryside and sunshine and heat. Nice to know I can fit my extra layers in the backpack!!

    Saw lots of sheep, chickens, roosters, few horses, flowers, vineyards, vegetable gardens and farms along with many pilgrims and bicyclists in route.

    We had a lighter walking day of about 8 miles and in early as we have an 11 mile day planned North to Rubiaes in the morning getting us closer to where we will meet Kenny on Tuesday and can’t wait to see him again ❤️
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  • Day 25

    Its been a while

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I have been sick but struggling to continue my walk. But, that hasn't left me with the energy to write my posts. I have been crashing each night. Though I have much more recuperating to go, I do feel better. A short day today helped also. We switched from the coastal to the central route, and took a car to span them. It would have been about a 30 mile walk and we don't have time for that. But we did walk about 8 miles today after we got to the Central.
    We left Porto on Thursday morning. Jayme headed on the Central path and the rest of us took the coastal. The first three days along the coast were a mixture of things. We walked miles and miles of boardwalk, through small towns and on a couple trails. The terrain was pretty flat, but it seemed we were either being battered by the wind and sea soray or burnt to a crisp by the unrelenting sun. But the coast is beautiful and wild and I am so happy we did it. It truly reminded me of the Maine coast. Along the way we stayed a night in Perafita in an old woman's house with rooms that had decks facing the ocean and listened to the waves crash all night. Next we stayed in a 2 bedroom apartment right in the middle of old town Vila do Conde, a very nice place. And last night we stayed in private rooms at the Albergue Santiago de Coste in Apulia. We stayed in the private rooms because it only cost 5 euro more than the dorm bunks with 14 other people. And tonight we are in a private apartment with 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, kitchen, living room, and dining, balcony around 2 sides of the apartment, and some strange 4th bedroom that is the size of a cell and has no windows. Lucky we don't need that room. But the place is huge, quite nice and only .5 miles from downtown, all for 106,14 euro!
    The path has become so much more populated since leaving Porto. It is getting difficult to pop behind a bush for a quick pee because there is always someone coming along to see you. But, everyone is friendly and happy and there is a good energy. And the locals have all been wonderful. When leaving Porto we net a man named Francisco who spoke with Noelle in Spanish in Portuguese. He asked where she learned to speak Pirtuguese and was greatly amused when she said "you tube"! He was so proud of his city and the park we were walking in. He gave us a history of how it was built. And, he made my day when he was awed that I. Had been walking since Lisbon.
    Sorry this is just a quick recap. We are out at 6:30 tomorrow morning. Wee have a lot of miles and thhe majority a straight uphill. I need rest for what is ahead. And in case you don't hear from me, I will be in bed sleeping, I am sure
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  • Day 25

    Day 22 - Faces

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    “The face is the mirror of the mind, and eyes without speaking confess the secrets of the heart.”—-St. Jerome

    Today I went from Vitorino dos Piaes to Sao Rogue. During this whole trip I have seen so many interesting faces. Faces that hold many stories; you can see it in their eyes and in each line on their face.

    At first I was hesitant to ask to take their photo, but during my walk today I started to ask a few people. No one said no and they all liked seeing the photo I took. So moving forward you will see more pics of faces. I also imagine you may be bored with the landscapes, woods, churches, etc but be forewarned, you’ll still see plenty of those too.

    Tonight I am staying at a country house, Quinta Da Granda. Isabela and her husband own the property. She shared that there once was a baron who went broke. He couldn’t pay his workers, so he gave them some of his assets. Among his most loyal workers was her husband’s mother or father (Isabela’s English is limited) and they were gifted this house and land. It’s very pretty and they are very accommodating hosts. The rooms are private and have en suites.

    She drove myself and 3 other pilgrims to a restaurant that was pilgrim central. There had to be at least 40 pilgrims dining there. Many had passed me on the road today and I saw a couple of my German friends from last night. Dined with my housemates, 2 of the Germans, a girl from Italy, and a girl from Latvia. My housemates are a mother and daughter from Rhode Island, and a young man from Luxembourg

    My goal is to reach Tui tomorrow which will allow me to have shorter walk days into Santiago since some of the hills will be steep.
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  • Day 6

    Walk to Apulia

    April 26 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Saw several pretty flowers and sites along the 10.5 mile walk to Apulia. Winds were quite strong and constant and lots of boardwalks and I was thankful for layers of clothing, hat and hood. I am proud of Arlene who has been so sick and has not let that stop her one bit. She has trekked from Lisbon since 4/3 and I’m amazed at her determination and strength as she has walked over 200 miles thus far!! Once boardwalk ended, cute little rest stop for a drink and protein bar with grapevine trellis. Heard from albergue owner that this one is not typical as usually 10-20 beds line up in large space so feel fortunate to have shared room with Noelle. Tomorrow taking car about 30 minutes to Camino central route to Balugaes and then walking to Ponte de Lima about 11 miles.Read more

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