Portugal Museu do Brinquedo Português

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  • Day 8

    8.3 Eine große Herausforderung: Rubiães

    May 2 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Immer und immer wieder geht's bergauf 🔼 und bergab 🔽..., mittlerweile über steinigen Untergrund.
    Achtung ‼️ Rutschgefahr ‼️

    Erstmal durchatmen, wenn man die Ebene nach dem Aufstieg 🧗‍♂️erreicht hat, dann die Hoffnung "DAS WAR'S JETZT"...,
    aber die Hoffnung stirbt bekanntlich zuletzt.
    Der gelbe Caminho Pfeil weist den Weg..., und zwar hinauf 🤦.

    Am höchsten Punkt der Etappe zeigt der Höhenmesser 470.
    Wir können bald nicht mehr 🥵.

    Wo's hochgeht, geht's auch wieder runter...

    Nach 19,2 km erreichen wir unsere Unterkunft, die "Casa das Lagas"🤗.
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  • Day 8

    Viana do Castelo

    May 1 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    The final kilometers to Viana de Castelo were exhausting for my feet since they lead me through cobblestone roads most of the time.
    However, after reaching my destination of today, I took some rest and treated me to a nice dinner after mostly living on supermarket stuff and tostadas (😩) the last days. And kook at the last picture...these guys serve white wine from the tap 😂Read more

  • Day 6

    6.3 Fünfte Etappe: Vitorino dos Piäes

    April 30 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Trotz des Regens 🌧️ haben wir KEINE schlechte Laune.
    Allein beim Anblick des kräftigen Grüns der Gräser 💚 oder des sonnigen Gelbs 💛 der Blumen am Straßenrand bleibt es Einem warm ums Herz 💞.
    Dieses Gefühl ist schwer zu beschreiben, muss man wahrscheinlich selbst erleben um zu verstehen ❣️

    Mittlerweile bewegen 🥾 wir uns schon auf der "Rua da Fonte Quente", der Straße auf der sich unsere heutige Unterkunft 💤🛏️💤 befindet.
    Na, wer sagt's denn, das letzte Stück ging ja doch schneller als gedacht.
    Allerdings, muss ich sagen, für mich ist das hier keine Straße, sondern eher ein Feldweg.

    Wir kommen im Landhaus "Casa Rural O Estábulo de Valinhas" unter. Die Pension liegt in einem schönen, alten, renovierten Anwesen direkt am Jakobsweg.
    Beim Einchecken bestellen wir direkt ein Abendessen einschließlich hausgemachten Vinho Verdes (Weißwein). Es gibt Nudeln mit Gemüse und Nudeln mit Hähnchenfleisch, vorweg selbstgemachtes Knoblauchbrot 🥖.
    Sitzen an einer langen Tafel 🍽️ mit den anderen Pilgern 🥾 und genießen das Zusammensein.
    Es wird erzählt 🗣️ und zugehört 👂, solange bis sich letztendlich einer nach dem anderen wegen Bettschwere 🥱 verabschiedet und für den nächsten Tag einen
    "Bom Caminho" wünscht.

    Heute, bei sehr nassem Wetter 🌧️, eine Strecke von 20,9 km zurückgelegt.
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  • Day 8–9

    Back on the grid!

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Noelle and I hiked 13 miles from Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes, Portugal over cobblestones, rocks, streams and steep mountain! Went through rural towns and then the BIG mountain. It was unexpected and seemed never ending. Every opportunity for water fall or fresh water we welcomed and was necessary. We thanked Mother Nature plenty.

    We didn’t realize power was out most of the day until we got to our Albergue, 4 twin beds in one room with private bathroom. Cells are charging again now. Kenny arrived safely and we meet him tomorrow and I can hardly wait 🥰
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  • Day 26

    Day 23 - No power

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    “And God said, 'Let there be light' and there was light, but the Electricity Board said He would have to wait until Thursday to be connected.”—-Spike Milligan

    Since Portugal, Spain, and who knows who else is without power, I thought I’d start off with the humorous quote above. But seriously I come out of a very long walk in the woods and stop at a restaurant to be told no food but they do have warm beer or soft drinks. What happened?

    Today I walked from Sao Roque to Tui. So I am officially in Spain! Only ~116k / 72m to go. Lots of pilgrims were on the road today. And it was hot! That is why I enjoyed the wooded portions of today’s walk.

    Sitting in dark hotel room and I did treat myself to the Paradore. A little luxury before I begin the last part of my journey which has some steep hills (ugh)

    So adieu, going to get an early start tomorrow
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  • Day 7–8

    Central route now in Ponte de Lima

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    First night in albergue and got to use my silk bed liner, blanket and microfiber towel finally and all worked great! We rented a Bolt vehicle driver to take us about 40 miles inland to catch the Camino Central Route and he dropped us off in town of Vitorino where we had a light breakfast before we began walking.

    Terrain very different here from ocean breeze and boardwalks to cobblestones, hills, rural countryside and sunshine and heat. Nice to know I can fit my extra layers in the backpack!!

    Saw lots of sheep, chickens, roosters, few horses, flowers, vineyards, vegetable gardens and farms along with many pilgrims and bicyclists in route.

    We had a lighter walking day of about 8 miles and in early as we have an 11 mile day planned North to Rubiaes in the morning getting us closer to where we will meet Kenny on Tuesday and can’t wait to see him again ❤️
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  • Day 25

    Its been a while

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    I have been sick but struggling to continue my walk. But, that hasn't left me with the energy to write my posts. I have been crashing each night. Though I have much more recuperating to go, I do feel better. A short day today helped also. We switched from the coastal to the central route, and took a car to span them. It would have been about a 30 mile walk and we don't have time for that. But we did walk about 8 miles today after we got to the Central.
    We left Porto on Thursday morning. Jayme headed on the Central path and the rest of us took the coastal. The first three days along the coast were a mixture of things. We walked miles and miles of boardwalk, through small towns and on a couple trails. The terrain was pretty flat, but it seemed we were either being battered by the wind and sea soray or burnt to a crisp by the unrelenting sun. But the coast is beautiful and wild and I am so happy we did it. It truly reminded me of the Maine coast. Along the way we stayed a night in Perafita in an old woman's house with rooms that had decks facing the ocean and listened to the waves crash all night. Next we stayed in a 2 bedroom apartment right in the middle of old town Vila do Conde, a very nice place. And last night we stayed in private rooms at the Albergue Santiago de Coste in Apulia. We stayed in the private rooms because it only cost 5 euro more than the dorm bunks with 14 other people. And tonight we are in a private apartment with 3 bedrooms, 2 baths, kitchen, living room, and dining, balcony around 2 sides of the apartment, and some strange 4th bedroom that is the size of a cell and has no windows. Lucky we don't need that room. But the place is huge, quite nice and only .5 miles from downtown, all for 106,14 euro!
    The path has become so much more populated since leaving Porto. It is getting difficult to pop behind a bush for a quick pee because there is always someone coming along to see you. But, everyone is friendly and happy and there is a good energy. And the locals have all been wonderful. When leaving Porto we net a man named Francisco who spoke with Noelle in Spanish in Portuguese. He asked where she learned to speak Pirtuguese and was greatly amused when she said "you tube"! He was so proud of his city and the park we were walking in. He gave us a history of how it was built. And, he made my day when he was awed that I. Had been walking since Lisbon.
    Sorry this is just a quick recap. We are out at 6:30 tomorrow morning. Wee have a lot of miles and thhe majority a straight uphill. I need rest for what is ahead. And in case you don't hear from me, I will be in bed sleeping, I am sure
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  • Day 25

    Day 22 - Faces

    April 27 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 52 °F

    “The face is the mirror of the mind, and eyes without speaking confess the secrets of the heart.”—-St. Jerome

    Today I went from Vitorino dos Piaes to Sao Rogue. During this whole trip I have seen so many interesting faces. Faces that hold many stories; you can see it in their eyes and in each line on their face.

    At first I was hesitant to ask to take their photo, but during my walk today I started to ask a few people. No one said no and they all liked seeing the photo I took. So moving forward you will see more pics of faces. I also imagine you may be bored with the landscapes, woods, churches, etc but be forewarned, you’ll still see plenty of those too.

    Tonight I am staying at a country house, Quinta Da Granda. Isabela and her husband own the property. She shared that there once was a baron who went broke. He couldn’t pay his workers, so he gave them some of his assets. Among his most loyal workers was her husband’s mother or father (Isabela’s English is limited) and they were gifted this house and land. It’s very pretty and they are very accommodating hosts. The rooms are private and have en suites.

    She drove myself and 3 other pilgrims to a restaurant that was pilgrim central. There had to be at least 40 pilgrims dining there. Many had passed me on the road today and I saw a couple of my German friends from last night. Dined with my housemates, 2 of the Germans, a girl from Italy, and a girl from Latvia. My housemates are a mother and daughter from Rhode Island, and a young man from Luxembourg

    My goal is to reach Tui tomorrow which will allow me to have shorter walk days into Santiago since some of the hills will be steep.
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  • Day 5

    Day 5 Rubiães to Valença, 18 km

    April 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Short, easy, often pretty day with terrifically inaccurate weather reports! I was the last one out of the albergue this morning. Despite their late hours and the many empty wine bottles in the kitchen - everyone else was out by 8:00. Almost all of us were doing short days so I’m not sure what the rush was!

    My weather app promised clouds but no rain. Excellent! But I walked out the door into light rain that quickly turned into a downpour. Squelching shoes, ridiculously soaked gloves, damp everything. After 45 minutes or so the sun came out. I spent most of the next sunny hour warming up in a cafe. By the time I left it was spitting again. I tried not to think too much about my good waterproof gloves at home.

    Not much to report from the walk. It was pleasant - in and out of forests, small hamlets, fields, tiny hills. There were some raging streams and serious puddles. The sky was capricious all day. When the sun was out even the unexciting bits of the Camino felt spectacular.

    Best part of the walk was running into Florence and Yuning while I was stopped for second coffee in a kind of obscure bar. A tiny camino miracle. We had not seen each other yesterday or the day before. The terrace of the bar was not visible from the path and it didn’t really look like a normal place to stop. But I went in and they came along about 20 minutes later. They’ve gone on ahead and so I probably won’t see them again. There were lots of other peregrinos today, but no one I had met before.

    I’m staying in Valença in a new private albergue inside the walled part of the town. I’m writing this from inside a kind of plywood bunk pod! Each bunk has curtains. The mattresses are a bit wider than normal and quite decent. The place is nice but it is also full and very loud right now. One woman in the lounge upstairs has been holding forth (on religion, philosophy, camino etiquette and hygiene, wartime gender politics and I’m not sure what else.
    I had a great dinner at a restaurant about ten minutes walk south of the town walls. Fish, potatoes, salad. It’s the first salad I’ve found! Then ice cream in a very warm cafe!. And then it started to rain on my dry nighttime clothes so I just came back here!

    Tomorrow I’m going to Porriño to another private albergue with curtains. Spain!
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  • Day 4

    Day 4 Ponte de Lima to Rubiães, 18 km

    April 14 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Short, wet day but finally in full countryside. And so many pilgrims! On their own, in groups, parents with their young adult children, another group of sisters, several groups of women, and probably more young walkers than I have ever seen before. There were not many chances for coffee today, and so everyone funnelled into the same places. A chair opens up, a new person sits down.

    The morning started with drizzle, but I lolled about in my room long enough that the rain had stopped by the time I got started. The exit from Ponte de Lima goes through a semi-natural park where I would want to walk the dog. Then it followed, on an elevated stone pathway, a small stream to the first real mud of the trip! From the weather report, which is predicting rain every day until I leave, I expect it won’t be the last. Towards the end of the day there were two places where the Camino is the best place for water to run. At this point it was mostly possible to keep from getting a soaker, but after even another day or two I would think not.

    One big hill with a trail full of rocks felt like hiking at home. Very thankful,as always, for my poles!

    It rained off and on all day. Hood on, hood off. Eventually it poured. Then it stopped. Then it drizzled. Etc. It’s so great to know the day will not end with me in a wet tent!

    Tonight I am staying at a very communal private albergue. When I arrived, I opened the door to a table of about ten people drinking wine. Marlene, the woman who owns it, was not here, so a Portuguese man( who is also staying here) showed me where the free beds were and I ended up with a private room. Big bonus! I guess there were supposed to be more people staying, but they did not all show up. I’m happy with that! It sounds like there is a lot of conviviality going on in the part of the house where the other beds are!

    Very nice communal meal. I can’t imagine cooking for 15 or 20 people every night. Lots of food, lots of vinho verde and port. Married Ukrainian couple, 2 friends from Czech Republic, a Dutch man, a guy from Montreal, a woman from Quebec who lives in BC, 3 German men, two together, one alone, a woman from Japan, who is married to a Swiss-Canadian, travels on a Swiss passport but now has citizenship in Spain, a Portuguese man and his son (who is studying sport science and will be taking sport history and sport sociology next year), a young Portuguese woman, one man at the far end of the table whom I did not meet, and me. And a cute little scruffy dog.

    I still have small blisters - I think they would’ve gone away today if I had worn my sandals, but that did not seem like a good idea in the rain. But they’re not too bad.

    Tomorrow a short day to Valença.
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