Portugal Valenza

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  • Day 8

    8.3 Eine große Herausforderung: Rubiães

    May 2 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Immer und immer wieder geht's bergauf 🔼 und bergab 🔽..., mittlerweile über steinigen Untergrund.
    Achtung ‼️ Rutschgefahr ‼️

    Erstmal durchatmen, wenn man die Ebene nach dem Aufstieg 🧗‍♂️erreicht hat, dann die Hoffnung "DAS WAR'S JETZT"...,
    aber die Hoffnung stirbt bekanntlich zuletzt.
    Der gelbe Caminho Pfeil weist den Weg..., und zwar hinauf 🤦.

    Am höchsten Punkt der Etappe zeigt der Höhenmesser 470.
    Wir können bald nicht mehr 🥵.

    Wo's hochgeht, geht's auch wieder runter...

    Nach 19,2 km erreichen wir unsere Unterkunft, die "Casa das Lagas"🤗.
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  • Day 6

    6.3 Fünfte Etappe: Vitorino dos Piäes

    April 30 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Trotz des Regens 🌧️ haben wir KEINE schlechte Laune.
    Allein beim Anblick des kräftigen Grüns der Gräser 💚 oder des sonnigen Gelbs 💛 der Blumen am Straßenrand bleibt es Einem warm ums Herz 💞.
    Dieses Gefühl ist schwer zu beschreiben, muss man wahrscheinlich selbst erleben um zu verstehen ❣️

    Mittlerweile bewegen 🥾 wir uns schon auf der "Rua da Fonte Quente", der Straße auf der sich unsere heutige Unterkunft 💤🛏️💤 befindet.
    Na, wer sagt's denn, das letzte Stück ging ja doch schneller als gedacht.
    Allerdings, muss ich sagen, für mich ist das hier keine Straße, sondern eher ein Feldweg.

    Wir kommen im Landhaus "Casa Rural O Estábulo de Valinhas" unter. Die Pension liegt in einem schönen, alten, renovierten Anwesen direkt am Jakobsweg.
    Beim Einchecken bestellen wir direkt ein Abendessen einschließlich hausgemachten Vinho Verdes (Weißwein). Es gibt Nudeln mit Gemüse und Nudeln mit Hähnchenfleisch, vorweg selbstgemachtes Knoblauchbrot 🥖.
    Sitzen an einer langen Tafel 🍽️ mit den anderen Pilgern 🥾 und genießen das Zusammensein.
    Es wird erzählt 🗣️ und zugehört 👂, solange bis sich letztendlich einer nach dem anderen wegen Bettschwere 🥱 verabschiedet und für den nächsten Tag einen
    "Bom Caminho" wünscht.

    Heute, bei sehr nassem Wetter 🌧️, eine Strecke von 20,9 km zurückgelegt.
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  • Day 27

    Last Day in Portugal

    April 29 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Today I walked from Rubiaeus to Valenca, the last city in Portugal. It is separated from Tui, Spain by the Minho River. The walk was pretty uneventful after our hike yesterday. It was fairly flat with lots of towns with cafes to stop and some bits of forest walking to keep us reminded of the beauty of nature. Portugal truly is a gorgeous country. We met a few people we have met frequently along the way, and it is nice recognizing faces and learning bits about them. The only drawback to the day, in my opinion, was the heat and humidity. It is exhausting to walk in. I do miss the rain.
    When we arrived in Valenca, we found Kenny waiting by the fountain of the town center. He is the last to join our group and will finish the walk to Santiago with us. We are staying within the walls of the Fortress of Valenca. I always love these walled cities, but this one feels special. Maybe it is the 2000 year history of the fortress, or maybe the sentimentality of knowing tomorrow i will say goodbye to country that has welcomed me and supported me on this journey. Or maybe it is just my really comfy bed for the night! Whatever it is, I am very happy and grateful we get to spend the night here.
    Tomorrow we are only walking to the north end of Tui. I have walked carrying my backpack for over somewhere around 255 miles and almost a month now. I am tired. So tomorrow we will only go about 5 miles and just rest a bit. And Noelle and Richard seem to be getting colds so it will probably be good for us all. Oh, and we lose an hour when we cross into Spain.
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  • Day 9–10

    Rubiaes to Valenca

    April 29 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Got on our way at 8 am and walked 11 miles from Rubiães to Valença and finally met Kenny!! Another hot day with cobblestones and beautiful trails. Noelle is now either with cold or allergies.

    Once in our apartment, Noelle, Kenny and I walked back into town to do laundry and a little shopping. After that and finding a restaurant for dinner, ended up walking another 5 miles, my longest mileage day yet.

    We are less than 2 miles from Tui, Spain. A lighter day tomorrow as with so many pilgrims here, hard to find a place to stay.

    Amazing trip so far!
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  • Day 26

    Seeing What Stuff I Am Made Of

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    I left the cutest little town today, Ponte de Limas. It was such a pretty, peaceful walk out of town for our destination of Rubiaeus. Thank goodness I had no idea what lay ahead, or I may never have left! I left town along the river, crossed the ancient pedestrian bridge, and made my way into the fields, then the forest, then the mountain! The fields were fun with stone walkways running just inches from the stream, with water so clear you almost didn't know it was there. The forest starting going uphill almost immediately, but it would be a pretty good inclines and then it would level off for a while so you could catch your breath before the next one. This went on for miles and as the top of the mountain got closer, the steeper the climb got. Amazingly, there were many mountain bikers riding up along side us. It is crazy to see them driving up over the rocks and roots and loose dirt! Then came the unexpected, the unimaginable, indescribable. It was a half mile climb, so steep it was like trying to climb stairs, but with rocks and boulders and rivulets of water running down and trees and roots everywhere, and at points climbing through sections where the twisty turny path was only about 18 inches wide with walls of rock and earth up to your thighs. This was certainly not the "easy" Portuguese Camino i thought i was going to be doing. But, guess what. I made it, unscathed and so full of a sense of accomplishment, I was on cloud nine! I have never in my life challenged myself like this. It was a huge test of strength, stamina, and will power. And, it was a bigger test of challenging and facing my fears. There was a good chance I could get hurt, and if I did, I couldn't just call 911. There was no one coming for me. This is the best I can do to describe how great I felt about this, still do actually. But if you feel anything in my retelling of this adventure, multiply by 100 to imagine how good it felt for me.
    And then, I got to go all the way down the other side! You think this would be easy, but the downside was equally steep and the trail had all loose dirt and pebbles. And it was very long. It was tough on my knees and I felt like gravity was pulling my 14 lbs backpack and my body along with it, all the way to the bottom.
    Once we got to the bottom and back into civilization, we discovered the power outage in Portugal and Spain. While on the mountain we were too busy to realize we had no service. But once down, when we all were trying to get cold drinks and food, we discovered the problem. There were no restaurants or cafes open, but we were able to find a few provisions in a tiny market and we're able to make pasta with red sauce, zucchini and olives. Lucky for us our albergue had a gas stove. But not going out to a dinner made and served to us by restaurant staff somehow seemed to be the perfect end to this wonderously hard day. We were once again proving we were capable and creative and able to overcome hardship.
    I really am as strong as I think I am!
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  • Day 8–9

    Back on the grid!

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Noelle and I hiked 13 miles from Ponte de Lima to Rubiaes, Portugal over cobblestones, rocks, streams and steep mountain! Went through rural towns and then the BIG mountain. It was unexpected and seemed never ending. Every opportunity for water fall or fresh water we welcomed and was necessary. We thanked Mother Nature plenty.

    We didn’t realize power was out most of the day until we got to our Albergue, 4 twin beds in one room with private bathroom. Cells are charging again now. Kenny arrived safely and we meet him tomorrow and I can hardly wait 🥰
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  • Day 26

    Day 23 - No power

    April 28 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    “And God said, 'Let there be light' and there was light, but the Electricity Board said He would have to wait until Thursday to be connected.”—-Spike Milligan

    Since Portugal, Spain, and who knows who else is without power, I thought I’d start off with the humorous quote above. But seriously I come out of a very long walk in the woods and stop at a restaurant to be told no food but they do have warm beer or soft drinks. What happened?

    Today I walked from Sao Roque to Tui. So I am officially in Spain! Only ~116k / 72m to go. Lots of pilgrims were on the road today. And it was hot! That is why I enjoyed the wooded portions of today’s walk.

    Sitting in dark hotel room and I did treat myself to the Paradore. A little luxury before I begin the last part of my journey which has some steep hills (ugh)

    So adieu, going to get an early start tomorrow
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  • Day 6

    Day 6 Valença to O Porriño, 20 km

    April 16 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Woke up to more serious rain. No one at the albergue was running out the door. Yoghurt and muesli and fruit for the albergue breakfast. Deluxe!

    I left about 8:00. It was cool walking out of the fortress town, under arches, through a tunnel, across what could have been a moat. As soon as you leave, the arrows direct you to the bridge that crosses over to Spain. Did it take 5 minutes to walk across? The rain was magnificent. My shoes were filling with water from the top down. I think that is a new one for me! On the Tui side I walked past a building with a covered stone porch - there were about ten pilgrims trying to wait out the weather. I walked another block and did my waiting in a cafe. Had a long coffee break with a cyclist from Suffolk in the UK who told me about volunteering for an organization that is building a replica of a Viking (?) long ship that was found in the UK. They are making it with the methods used to build the original They have a hard time getting wood because there are so few big trees left.

    Good to be back in Spain. Clocks change at the border. New e-sim installed. I managed to find a few Spanish words.

    The big rain eventually stopped and the rest of the day was like yesterday - with alternating rain, sun, drizzle in the morning and more or less sun and cloud in the afternoon. Today’s new development was the water levels of the creeks and streams. At one point the stepping stones that are meant to help you during high water were totally covered. My feet were still wet from the rain, and so I just rolled up my pants and walked over. Standing on the stones, the water came well up my shins. Cyclists with heavy e-bikes were behind me, what did they do?

    Big wide, engineered Galician paths through gorgeous woods. I saw a deer! About 5 km before O Porriño the path splits. Original version goes along the road through industrial area. The alternate spends a good while in the woods where
    I crossed paths with someone who works for? with? the Camino Association. He took credit for getting the alternate route built. He also carried a sello in his bag!

    I’m staying at another private albergue. More curtains. This one is almost but not quite full. There is heat! And my clothes finally got washed! After the shower and chores I walked across the small square where the albergue sits to a bar/cafe/tapas place where they were serving food after 4 pm! It was full of pilgrims. With lots more passing by.

    I walked around the town a bit. Bought kefir for breakfast (which I later ate and then had to go buy more!) and then came back to fuss with the drying clothes and the damp things from the pack. The albergue was super quiet.

    I’m writing this at 10:45 pm. The park outside in the square is still full of kids!

    I had thought tomorrow was 22 km but it is only 15!!! That’s a long lazy afternoon! I’m going to Redondela. I booked my room on Easter Monday in Santiago and then sorted the rest of the days after that. Let’s just say the stages are not that even! Maybe tomorrow I’ll get to have a decent afternoon meal!
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  • Day 5

    Day 5 Rubiães to Valença, 18 km

    April 15 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Short, easy, often pretty day with terrifically inaccurate weather reports! I was the last one out of the albergue this morning. Despite their late hours and the many empty wine bottles in the kitchen - everyone else was out by 8:00. Almost all of us were doing short days so I’m not sure what the rush was!

    My weather app promised clouds but no rain. Excellent! But I walked out the door into light rain that quickly turned into a downpour. Squelching shoes, ridiculously soaked gloves, damp everything. After 45 minutes or so the sun came out. I spent most of the next sunny hour warming up in a cafe. By the time I left it was spitting again. I tried not to think too much about my good waterproof gloves at home.

    Not much to report from the walk. It was pleasant - in and out of forests, small hamlets, fields, tiny hills. There were some raging streams and serious puddles. The sky was capricious all day. When the sun was out even the unexciting bits of the Camino felt spectacular.

    Best part of the walk was running into Florence and Yuning while I was stopped for second coffee in a kind of obscure bar. A tiny camino miracle. We had not seen each other yesterday or the day before. The terrace of the bar was not visible from the path and it didn’t really look like a normal place to stop. But I went in and they came along about 20 minutes later. They’ve gone on ahead and so I probably won’t see them again. There were lots of other peregrinos today, but no one I had met before.

    I’m staying in Valença in a new private albergue inside the walled part of the town. I’m writing this from inside a kind of plywood bunk pod! Each bunk has curtains. The mattresses are a bit wider than normal and quite decent. The place is nice but it is also full and very loud right now. One woman in the lounge upstairs has been holding forth (on religion, philosophy, camino etiquette and hygiene, wartime gender politics and I’m not sure what else.
    I had a great dinner at a restaurant about ten minutes walk south of the town walls. Fish, potatoes, salad. It’s the first salad I’ve found! Then ice cream in a very warm cafe!. And then it started to rain on my dry nighttime clothes so I just came back here!

    Tomorrow I’m going to Porriño to another private albergue with curtains. Spain!
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  • Day 9

    9.3 Achte Etappe: Valenca

    May 3 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Einen Besuch der Altstadt von Valenca lassen wir uns nicht nehmen.

    Was für ein Flair 🤩 ..., von historischen Festungsmauern 🪨🧱 🪨umschlossen.

    OHNE WORTE ❣️

    Von der Festung 🏰 aus werfen wir einen Blick auf den Grenzfluss "Miño", auf die "Internationale Brücke", sowie die benachbarte Stadt "Tui".

    DER BLICK NACH SPANIEN ❣️
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