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South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands Buxton Glacier

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  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    1
    1
    Day 16

    RWSE Day 7: Gold Harbour Landing

    February 17 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ ☁️ 37 °F

    SGI’s Gold Harbour was known by several names, but the one that stuck — and the one by which we know it today — was the one used by whalers and sealers. Why did they so name this small bay? Not because gold was mined here. Rather because the rising sun bathes Bertrab Glacier in a golden hue. We’ve not had the privilege of seeing that happen, but I like the history behind the name.

    Our days on an expedition generally start early. Today started even earlier … by 8:00a, we were already ashore, receiving our briefing for the landing.

    Remember how I wrote in the previous footprint that we landed here in 2007, too? Well, true enough. Except that this time we landed on the far side of the beach … further from the glacier streaming down the mountainside … but closer to the king penguin breeding colony that is said to be 50,000 strong. The first time around, we visited the penguins around a lake. This time, we actually got to visit the colony.

    This penguin colony ranges from the tussock grass at the foothills of the mountains all the way to the edge of the beach. We had to cross the beach and follow the path laid out amongst the tussac grass to a slightly elevated area overlooking the colony. Sounds easy, right? Except that the grass at times was over five-feet tall … which means that in many places I could barely see over the clumps. And underfoot it was muddy and slippery.

    But that was the easy part as it turns out! On the beach, we had to dodge curious penguins that seemed bound and determined to check us out … often making it difficult to maintain the 5m requirement set by IAATO. Then there were the fur seals wanting to challenge us; elephant seals that were sleeping in a pile … some of the young males play-fighting to sharpen their skills so they can one day become beach masters. And let’s not forget the king penguins at the edge of the colony, screeching and pecking at skuas that were getting too close to their eggs and young chicks. All very distracting … all providing wonderful photo ops.

    Our landing was fantastic. All the more so because we were lucky to be able to land here at all. EL Sara later told us that Gold Harbour was so badly hit by avian flu that it was a mass-casualty site … to the extent that last year they weren’t even allowed to zodiac-cruise along the beachfront if the wind was blowing from the land toward the sea! So glad that avian flu no longer has such a terrible hold on this amazing site … though the epidemic is far from over.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    222
    Day 15

    RWSE Day 6: St Andrews Bay Landing

    February 16 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ ⛅ 39 °F

    St Andrews Bay is more of a bight than a bay. Though it was named in the early 20th century, it is believed that Captain James Cook’s 1775 expedition was the first to sight this scenic bay … rimmed with mountains and glaciers.

    The bay is wide … and open to the elements. So much so that landings here are very much at the mercy of Mother Nature … as we found out in 2007 … when a strong katabatic wind came out of nowhere and we found ourselves “all layered up with nowhere to go.”

    Today, Mother Nature gave us permission to land at the world’s largest king penguin colony … at present 150,000 breeding pairs + chicks + solos. In addition, there are fur and elephant seals, giant petrels, skuas, and a number of other birds here.

    Since the beach that fronts the colony has been taken over by the penguins, we landed at a smaller beach where the surf was more conducive to a wet landing. Then, following the red poles along the inland side of the beach, we began our hike to a ridge that overlooks the main king penguin colony. Of course, there were stops along the way to take photos and shoo off fur seals that wanted to show off.

    Then came a fast-flowing melt-water creek. The water wasn’t particularly deep, but the current was very strong. The two lead dive guides helped us negotiate the creek, and soon, we were hiking up tussac-covered hills … not the easiest feat with the bulky muck boots on our feet. But the sight of over 300,000 penguins all gathered in one place was most definitely worth the effort. What a spectacular place!

    The last zodiac back to the ship was at 7:30p … giving us three hours to explore the site. We were told, however, that anyone who returned to the landing beach before 7:00p would be able to go on a zodiac cruise along the front edge of the colony. So, we timed our return accordingly. A different perspective of the world’s biggest king penguin colony and a fantastic wrap up to our day!    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    21
    Day 15

    RWSE Day 6: Ahoy … St Andrews Bay

    February 16 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ ☁️ 39 °F

    Ortelius made good time while we were at the daily recap, and arrived at its anchorage in St Andrews Bay around 3:00p.

    The expedition team went into action immediately, setting off in the zodiacs to do their usual recon of the landing site … ensuring the landing beach was not crowded with wildlife; setting up a path for us to follow to the main colony; checking for evidence of avian flu.

    While they were doing their thing, we got into our ‘landing layers’ … including our muck boots, parkas, and zodiac life vests. Then, we went on deck … not only so we didn’t overheat while we waited for the zodiac ops to begin, but also to see what we could see of the world’s largest king penguin colony.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    1
    Day 15

    RWSE Day 6: Grytviken … Whaling Station

    February 16 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ 🌧 39 °F

    As I previously mentioned, South Georgia Island was a hub of the whaling industry. During that time, 175,000+ whales were hunted and processed at several whaling stations along the coastline.

    Established in 1904 by Carl Anton Larsen, Grytviken was the site of the first permanent whaling station on SGI. The whalers weren’t the first to work out of here, however. During the 19th century, sealers operated from Grytviken … which, in Swedish, means Pot Bay … a reference to the old try-pots found here that were used to render oil from blubber.

    Historic records indicate that during the course of the 60 years that the Grytviken station operated, over 54,000 whales were processed here … one of them a nearly 112-foot long blue whale that was caught in 1912 … the largest on record.

    The station ruins at Grytviken were cleaned up between 2005-2007. Once the hazardous materials were removed, visitors were welcomed. That timing makes us one of the first to visit the station when we made a landing here in January 2007.

    Today, we came ashore on a beach near the rusty hulls of the Dias and Albatros … both having served here first as whalers and later as sealers. As we wandered around the ruins of the station, making our way to the cemetery, we recognized several station artifacts from our previous visit. Others were new-to-us … perhaps because our attention in 2007 had been captured by the critters. The rusted out condition of the artifacts, however, signaled that they had been here for quite some time and born the brunt of the storms that batter SGI on a regular basis.

    The cemetery is one of the must-visit sites in Grytviken. On the outskirts of the former station, it is here that Shackleton was interred after his death in 1922 … on his last Antarctic quest … he did not make it beyond SGI that time. He was buried here at the request of his wife.

    In 2007, we toasted the ‘Boss’ with vodka … we were on a Russian ship after all. This time the toast was made with whiskey, and Tennessee, our expedition historian and a Shackleton buff, read a passage honoring the life of the explorer.

    Another must-visit site is the church, which is located behind the whaling station … near the foothills of the jagged mountains. Constructed by the Norwegians in 1913, it was pre-fabricated in Norway and erected by the whalers here in Grytviken. Our timing was perfect as we got to hear Carolyn, a fellow-passenger, singing in the church. In addition to being a place of worship, the church was at times used as a library, a movie theater, and a store.

    By the time we walked out of the church, it was time to make our way to the landing beach … the last zodiac back to the ship was about to leave.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    4
    Day 15

    RWSE Day 6: Grytviken … SG Museum

    February 16 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    We received a 100% rating!

    The effort put in by the passengers, the expedition team, and the ships’ crew and staff to comply with SGI’s biosecurity measures paid off. With zero infractions, we received the stamp of approval and a letter authorizing us to go ashore not just at Grytviken, but at other SGI landing sites as well. Two thumbs up!

    Ferried ashore by zodiacs, we had a number of things that we could do in Grytviken. When we visited in 2007, we were so enamored of the wildlife that we did not have time to pay much attention to either the museum or the station itself. Our goal this time was to reverse what we did last time and head to the museum first.

    The South Georgia Museum, housed in what was once the villa of the manager of the Grytviken whaling station, opened in 1992. There is also a post office, but we had no need to go there, so we skipped it.

    At the museum, we wandered around the exhibits about the history of the island — before, during, and after the whaling period; checked out some of the taxidermied species … of which the albatross that died from natural causes on Bird Island is probably the most popular; read about life here when it was a hamlet; and refreshed our memory with respect to Antarctic explorer Sir Ernest Shackleton’s connection to the island … not the least of which is the fact that he is buried here in Grytviken.

    Entirely new to us this time was an adjunct building in which we found a replica of the James Caird, the small boat that was taken off Shackleton’s ship, the Endurance, before it was crushed in the ice. The boat played an important role in the Endurance saga … carrying Shackleton and five other men some 800 miles across the Southern Ocean to then mount the rescue of the men left on Elephant Island.

    (If you are not familiar with all this about Shackleton and Endurance … I have a slide show of sorts from our 2007 visit at this link … https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Antarctica/Falklands…).

    A quick wander amongst the whaling artifacts on the lawn was next … from try-pots used to render oil from blubber obtained from seals to a steam-driven bone saw … amongst which fur seals played. Then we headed off to explore the ruins of the old whaling station. More on that in the next footprint.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Day 15

    RWSE Day 6: Grytviken … Heritage Trust

    February 16 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ 🌧 37 °F

    “Human effort is not futile, but man fights against the giant force of nature in a spirit of humility.” ~~ Sir Ernest Shackleton ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    We arrived at our anchorage in Cumberland Bay during breakfast. Grytviken — once a whaling station and now the government seat, if you will, for the British Overseas Territory of South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands — was off in the distance. The morning was misty. Snow was spitting. Those conditions, however, would be changing soon enough.

    While the Captain and our Expedition Leader [EL] Sara dealt with the formalities that would allow us to go ashore, we gathered in the bar for a presentation by a member of the South Georgia Heritage Trust.

    The mission of the Trust is twofold … as described on its website …

    “ To help efforts to conserve and protect those species of indigenous fauna and flora that breed and grow on South Georgia or in the surrounding seas and to raise awareness of South Georgia’s threatened species;

    * To assist efforts to preserve the historical heritage of South Georgia, including selected historical sites of importance, and increase international awareness of the human history of the island through the South Georgia Museum.”

    An interesting glimpse into projects — past, present, and future — in which the Trust is involved.    Read more

  • TravelerAntarctica and Patagonia
    Day 12

    South Georgia - Jason Harbour/Grytviken

    February 7 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ 🌫 4 °C

    After 2 1/2 days at sea we woke this morning at South Georgia Island - "discovered" by Captain Cook and claimed by England it became a major sealing and whaling outpost as well a major stationing point for Antarctica expeditions for the likes of Scott and Shackelton - the last settlement before the South Pole.
    It was a misty, wet and cold morning as we alighted at Jason Harbour to be greeted by multitudes of southern fur seals - cavorting in the water, harrumphing at us on the beach and occasionally trying to get a little to close for comfort. The was a huddle of King Penguins on the beach as well showing signs of moulting which they do each year. Most impressive though were the female elephant seals lolling about on the beach and up in the tussock grass - the thought of them dragging those big bodies up into the grass is exhausting!
    We got well and truly soaked by the time we got back on the boat for a hot shower despite our wet weather gear.
    Next stop was the old whaling station at Grytviken - a Norwegian company with Argentinian backing and whalers from Scotland and Scandinavia - they used to process 30 -50 whales a day here. 400 men worked here at it's peak. This is one of three whaling stations left relatively intact - the other two being Albany in WA and one in the Faroe Islands. There was a lovely museum, and historic walking tour amongst the blubber, muscle and bone boilers used to extract oil and a visit to Ernest Shackelton's grave in the cemetery - he died here from a heart attack in 1922 whilst about to embark on an expedition to circumnavigate Antarctica.    Read more

  • TravelerFalklands & South Georgia
    2
    Day 12

    Hiding with a view

    January 13 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ 🌬 5 °C

    Today was, sadly, all about hiding from the storm. We didn’t leave the ship—I took one picture, recorded a single video, and borrowed one.

    Over the last few days, the major storm mentioned earlier has been building up over the Southern Ocean. Yesterday, the center of the storm was the size of Australia! Only one ship ventured into it—a long technical explanation exists for why they could while the rest of us couldn’t—but their guests certainly paid the price for it 🤢🤮. I received a video from the bridge of that ship and added it here. It looks fairly harmless, but they faced waves over 11 meters tall by midday today 🫣🌊.

    We stayed in. I worked most of the day, trying to create a plan for the many guests who will miss Antarctica and arrive back in Argentina (Ushuaia) three days too soon. It’s been a lot of insurance and rebooking discussions today, with even more to handle tomorrow.

    There was also a lecture about wind :) and the molding processes for various animals. After dinner, the guides organized a quiz game: “How Big Is It? - The Game Where Size Matters.” You can really tell we’re far away from HR policies out here 😂. It was a simple, fun competition where we guessed the lengths of different animals.

    Now, the cabin is storm-secured, and I’m mentally preparing to leave this gorgeous place and face the waves. The captain said today: “The first 20 hours are going to be really tough.” More on that tomorrow 😅.    Read more

  • TravelerFalklands & South Georgia
    Day 11

    Grytviken - where the whales died..

    January 12 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We spent the entire day in the beautiful little bay of Grytviken! There was light rain in the morning, almost no wind, and rumors of sunny weather in the forecast—which later turned out to be true!

    We began the day with a landing at the graveyard (for humans), where young men, primarily whalers, have been buried over the years. Most of them died due to tragic work accidents or natural causes. The majority of the names are Nordic, and most of these men passed away before the age of 25. Among some of the older people that lies here, is Sir Ernest Shackleton I wrote about yesterday, buried here in 1922 after he died of a heart attack during yet another Antarctic expedition. The last person interred here was a young Argentinian sailor who died in 1982 during Britain’s recapture of the territory in the Falklands War.

    Tens of thousands of whales were shot, brought to Grytviken, and slaughtered to be processed into oil. The site operated as a whaling station until 1935. Some of the buildings, along with a couple of the old whaling boats, still stand today as reminders of a grim past—thankfully behind us when it comes to whales, though overfishing remains a current issue (a topic for another day).

    The whalers worked 12-hour shifts every day, seven days a week. Most were Norwegians, and while the base was busiest in summer, nearly 100 workers remained during the winter. A small wooden church, built in Norway (Tønsberg) and shipped to Grytviken, was assembled here. Despite the whalers’ limited interest in religion, they appreciated Christmas celebrations in the church—and the fact that it also housed a library, which still stands today and is filled with Norwegian books.

    We had time to explore the factory buildings, old ships, a wonderful little museum, and the post office. Grytviken is also home to the official British government building and administration for South Georgia, located at King Edward Point, a bit further out in the bay and not open to the public.

    After a sunny and historically fascinating morning, we returned to the Ocean Albatros for a stunning BBQ on the sundeck—an impressive effort by the ship's staff!

    In the afternoon, I joined a small group of guests and hotel staff for a kayaking trip. It was truly amazing to spend a few hours on the water, observing wildlife from a different perspective. The chill sensation of gliding through the 2°C water, surrounded by breathtaking scenery, was unforgettable.

    Now, the hunt for a safe harbor for the coming days is underway. A giant storm is raging in the Southern Ocean right now, with wind speeds expected to reach up to 74 knots (150 km/h) in the next 24 hours.
    Tomorrow will likely be a day spent aboard the ship!    Read more

  • TravelerFalklands & South Georgia
    22
    Day 9

    South Georgia Galore!

    January 10 in South Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    After a scary and less-than-pleasant day yesterday—and with still some disappointed guests at breakfast—the view from the windows gave hope for a magical day in the stunning South Georgia.

    We landed on the beach at Fortuna Bay. There were a few waves, and sadly, some dead seals along the shoreline. South Georgia has been heavily affected by bird flu, which originated in Asia years ago and has since spread worldwide. Some birds get sick while others don’t, but unfortunately, quite a few mammals succumb to it, with seals suffering particularly badly.

    Despite the carcasses—which some of nature's “cleaners,” like Southern Giant Petrels, treated as a buffet—the place is breathtakingly beautiful. It's the perfect combination of mountains, glaciers, beaches, wildlife, greenery, and raw, untamed beauty. I was incredibly impressed. Though I haven’t seen New Zealand yet, guests who have been there said it compares to this.

    We encountered large groups of King Penguins—so incredibly beautiful! Just enjoy the pictures :) There were also seals, fur seals, elephant seals, and the aforementioned "cleaners" like petrels. A lot of fur seal pups were running around on the beach, super curious about the funny-looking animals (us)! I took plenty of photos but also gave myself time to just soak in the scenery. The sheer beauty of this place is truly moving.

    After lunch, we repositioned the vessel to the neighboring bay, Stromness, where a couple of old whaling stations still stand as ruins—a haunting reminder of a dark time. In this remote corner of the world, 175,000 whales were slaughtered, and their fat (blubber) was boiled down into whale oil. The stations, mainly manned by Norwegians, were in operation until 1935.

    Despite its grim history, the place is astonishing. I thought the morning had been fantastic, but this just topped it. The beauty here is impossible to capture fully in pictures—you simply have to visit!

    We walked a bit inland to see a small Gentoo Penguin colony. The penguins were super cute, and the chicks were chasing their parents for food. However, as soon as a Brown Skua (which preys on small penguins) appeared in the air, the chicks huddled together in a tight group, making it harder for the skuas to grab any of them. It was adorable and impressive to see their survival instincts in action.

    We also spotted the elusive South Georgia Pintail Duck, the world’s only carnivorous duck.

    A final detail worth mentioning is that Stromness is most famous as the whaling station where Sir Ernest Shackleton and his two men arrived after being lost and presumed dead for two years. Their epic survival story, and rescue of their 21 friends stuck on elephant island is one you must read about—or wait for me to tell you another day :) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ernest_Shackleton
    
Today was an amazing day! Plus, with a few flu-stricken guides out of commission, I had the chance to step in as a proper expedition guide 🥳    Read more

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