Spain Boadilla del Camino

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  • Day 17

    D17 Formista (Total 366KM)

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The story of the day was hills, headwinds, beat the rain and battle of the blisters. The hill out of Castrojeriz was quite something but after this the day was more or less a flat (147M of climb). The weather could not have been more contrasting with yesterday, with headwinds and a few spots of rain but actually cold v yesterday's 27 degrees. Battle of the blisters has been won, we seem to have this under control😁. Many other Pilgrims were on the path today, it was very busy.. We are told it's a battle for the bunk due to the volume of Pilgrims. We do not have this issue as all rooms are booked💪💪🤞🤞🤞. Unfortunately it's Monday night and almost all restaurants are closed.. So we plan an early invasion (German style) to secure a table given the village is full😬. The last 4 days we have walked over 100KM..💪💪💪.. Hard going but fab❤️Read more

  • Day 23

    Carrion de los Condes to Ledigos

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    What a gorgeous day! The sun quickly chased away the morning chill and it was a great day for walking. The morning was a very long walk without any little towns, but a well-positioned food truck gave me a chance for a snack and to connect with Keith and Mag as Philippa and Sean walked on. It's amazing how paths keep crossing.

    This afternoon the path turned uphill and as it did a cuckoo bird started sounding in the shrubs beside me. I'd never actually heard one, but it sounds just like the clock! It kept alongside me, singing its heart out, all the way up the incline. At the top, the shrubs gave way, and its voice drifted off. What a welcome companion!

    Tonight's Albergue was a little oasis with the most welcoming lawn. I had the Pilgrims' dinner with Anya and Andy, an adorable couple who met on the Camino in 2018 and are walking it again. I also reconnected with Kathleen from Canada and Ilene. Pathes just keep crossing...

    Steps: 37,953
    Distance: 16.51 miles
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  • Day 20

    Day 17 - Flat earth

    May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Boadilla del Camino to Carrión de los Condes
    26.3km
    Accumulated distance 414.7km
    Last nights communal dinner was great, lentil soup, chicken, ice cream, and red wine.
    This morning, after the usual bread, jam, coffee, orange juice breakfast I head off at 8 into a drizzly morning.
    Today was characterised by flat terrain, the paths were easy going, and apart from small undulations there was not a hill in sight. Flat earth country for sure.
    It was on and off drizzle for a few hours, and even spent an hour or so walking alongside a canal up to the lock at Fromista.
    Despite the easy walking, my blisters were really bad today, but it was all worthwhile getting to Revenga de Compos where I’d calculated my 400km mark. The official 400km is still a couple of days away, it shows how much extra walking I’ve been doing.
    More stunning scenery and waving wheat fields, then a lunch stop at Villalcázar de Sirga, where I also had a look at the Church of Santa Maria La Blanca. We were even treated to a procession from the church.
    After lunch the last stretch was spent speaking to Roz from Melbourne who had fallen behind husband John and friends Martin and Sue who I’d met some days ago. Fortunately the conversation was good and the last 6km flew by to the relief of my feet.
    I nice 2 star hotel tonight complete with kitchen, so a home cooked meal for a change.
    Moment of the day was achieving the 400km milestone, despite the blister pain it felt good!
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  • Day 21

    Castrojeriz to Boadilla del Camino

    May 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    I left this morning in a misty rain that turned into a steady rain as the morning went on. We had quite a climb to start the day, but the views were absolutely breathtaking! It's hard to miss the immensity of God's power when it stretches out before you like this! Most of us walked in silence and solitude, intent on the muddy road before us. The mud covered my shoes and flicked up onto my legs and pants - eventually drying into crusty chunks that fell into my socks. But the silence and stillness was so peaceful...

    Today it was 12 kilometers of walking before there was a stop for a hearty meal. Most mornings start with fruit and bread to get you to the first town with a bar offering coffee and soft drinks, hearty croissants and my favorite, the tortilla, a frittata with potatoes and onions. It's a welcome boost of protein and carbs to get you on down the road.

    The afternoon passed quickly through waving fields of grain that changed from greens to yellows as the wind tossed it. Wildflowers in purples, yellows, and reds lined the fields with brilliant color. It's humbling to be such a tiny speck in such vast beauty. And it puts my little worries into glorious perspective, I pray I can keep this sense of my place in the universe when this journey is over.

    Tonight promises another wonderful shared meal with fellow pilgrims. And tomorrow will be a longer day of walking.

    Steps: 31,372
    Distance: 13.34 miles
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  • Day 24–25

    Villalcázar - Calzadilla Cueza

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    The church in Villalcázar was amazing. An absolute fortress built between the 11 and 13 centuries. Glad we were able to take a look.
    Everything was closed when we got up and the next town, Carrión was about 5 km so off we went on a rainy and cool start of the day.
    Found a cafe as we arrived in the city filled with lots of locals and pilgrims. Got fueled up as there wasn’t any towns between breakfast and our destination which was about 17km away.
    The rain stopped but was still overcast and cool. Great weather for walking the mostly flat, open country and thankfully not muddy path.
    It was was a long day but a few miles before reaching Calzadilla we spotted spanish lavender growing along the roadsides - Lorna’s favorite. That, along with all the other beautiful wildflowers contrasted by the green fields was enough to lift spirits and finish those final miles.
    Found our Hostel, checked in and took a well deserved break in the now sunny day with a couple of beers and some olives.
    Bonus: we got to FaceTime with Lula and Campbell and Whitney & Patrick for a few minutes which, was a best part of the day. 😎
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  • Day 19

    Day 16 - Views forever

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 10 °C

    Castrojirez to Boadilla del Camino
    19.8km
    Accumulated distance 388.4km
    A casual time out the door of the very Italian-esque Jacobus hotel after breakfast. Unsure what the weather holds, about 8deg to start and a forecast for rain.
    We continue on good walking tracks, nicely graded and in good condition but proud standing stones still keep finding my blisters. I had a new blister develop on the outside of my left foot with my new sandals yesterday, I called her Gullston - came out of nowhere, nasty, and angry.
    First challenge of the day about an hr out of town, a very steep climb up to the Mirador del Alto de Monstelares, about 140m elevation gain. It was hard work but quite satisfying overtaking the cyclist who had passed me earlier in the valley. The views from the top were breathtaking, back to town with low lying cloud and mist, and forwards over the Meseta where it felt like we could see forever.
    I bumped into Brendan and Karen coming down the other side and we spent the rest of the morning together.
    The rest of the day was continuing through the expansive wheat fields with lots of great views.
    Picnic lunch stop in Itero de la Vega where I parted with my walking buddies.
    The rest of the route was good going making good time to get into Boadilla del Camino by 2.30 to check into the hotel and a good few hours ahead of the thunder and rain.
    Moment of the day was powering past the walking cyclist up Alto de Monstelares, and the few times coming over a little rise to a new view opening up over the fields.
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  • Day 24–25

    Frómista - Villalcázar

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ 🌩️ 50 °F

    A beautiful sunrise greeted us this morning through our window as we repacked backpacks before breakfast at Hotel Don Pablo. Yesterday’s 27 km (about 17 miles) day with it’s steep start and steep descent to the slogfest through a mile or two of slippery mud had pretty much taken all we had so the solid nights rest after a great pilgrims meal shared with new friends from the Netherlands was exactly what was needed. Knowing we had a short day today of 14km we weren’t in a rush to take the first steps.
    A couple of miles in we crossed a small river that was swollen from recent rains and playing its gentle sounds across rocks and its banks as it flowed along which, reminded me of yet another perfect soundtrack for the day.
    Listen here:
    https://youtu.be/Mjeg6YIUgdU?si=9EeDgIfRhUYXhcHD
    This song was on one of the first albums I ever bought for myself as a 14 year old and has resonated with me ever since.
    It was a beautiful day for the 9ish miles to our next stop at Albergue Don Camino in Villalcázar - home to one of the most beautiful churches (so we’re told) on the Camino.
    More about that tomorrow if we can get in to see it.

    If anyone is wondering :
    Lula and Campbell are our little granddaughters in Oregon. At dinner time Mom, dad and the girls share what the best part of their day was so we’re joining their tradition. 😉

    L&C :
    Best part of our day was a big breakfast, sunny skies, and a short hike!
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  • Day 18

    Day 15 - Into the Meseta

    May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Estapar to Castrojirez
    26.2km
    Accumulated distance 368.6km
    It was drizzling when I left Estapar, a few hours of navigation ahead of me to get back to the Camino route. Some of the route was on roads which had pros and cons, good to make up time, but a hard surface and have to watch for cars.
    The morning views were nice, and I started getting a sense that I was entering the Meseta with the flatter landscape, big sky views, and huge wheat fields.
    It took about 3 hrs to get back onto the Camino route and finally saw some people again.
    Nice break and lunch in Hontanas, then back onto the path again. Apart from the sticky mud, the walking was generally good underfoot, with some unevenness that hurt my blisters and gave me a new one.
    Bumped into Brendan and Karen again at the ruins of the Convent of San Antón, they are also in Castrojirez tonight.
    Nice looking hotel, I rather enjoyed the relaxation rather than exploring town.
    Moment of the day was just before Castrojirez where I passed a wheat field dotted with red poppy heads, it looked great.
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  • Day 23–24

    Castrojeriz - Frómista

    May 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    The 1st song I heard this morning as we were about to start our day was ‘Imagine’ by John Lennon. What a perfect way to begin!
    It rained most of the night and was still spitting rain out of darkened skies the first steps of the day.
    The climb out of Castrojeriz back on to the Meseta is a tough one.
    12% uphill grade with an almost 600 ft elevation gain in about a mile. Good way to warm up. 😵‍💫
    Thankfully, the ground under foot was solid and no lightning. Little did we know that we would be slogging through miles of gooey mud and doing a dance to keep from loosing footing.
    Five miles in we came upon a fellow in his camper van setup at a wide spot next to an asphalt road that we would be walking on selling snacks, fruit, and coffee. Bonus: there were cement picnic tables that had dried in the sun and we could get off our feet a moment. So needed!! The Camino provides.
    Had a couple more stops in actual towns for snacks/coffee - snacks/beer. They were not as close together as we’ve had in the past.
    Met a man and his daughter who was celebrating her 10th birthday today on the Camino! They started 200 miles back just as we did and plan on finishing in Santiago. Oh the stories she will have for the rest of her life! We sang her an impromptu happy birthday. 😊
    Today was quite a long one, clocking 26 km with the mud making if feel more like 46.
    We were grateful to arrive at Hotel san Martin in Frómista for the night about 1600. Great room, great pilgrim meal, all in the shadow of a thousand year old church. Also found a pharmacy here that knew exactly what we needed for sore muscles, a blister or two and the nagging Plantar Fasciitis that’s been a constant pain in my left foot from the start.
    Again, the Camino will provide.
    Life is good!
    L & C: the best part of the day was NOT slipping and falling into the mud and the sun coming out to help dry everything out!
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  • Day 23

    Carrión de los Condes

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Une autres belle journée pour la marche . Il fait quand même froid ces jours-ci. Nous avons traversé quatre villages et en avons profité pour manger des patates bravas légèrement épicées! Miam!
    Nous songeons à sauter quelques km de marche pour s’avancer un peu de notre retard! Les européens font leur chemin sur plusieurs années faisant une partie à chaque année. Un concept que nous trouvons intéressant !! Nous avons parcouru 300km jusqu’à maintenant.
    Ce soir nous dormons dans un monastère à Carrión de los Condes..magnifique !
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