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Spain Hornillos del Camino

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  • TravelerCompostelle
    12
    Day 19

    Burgos

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Nous sommes maintenant à Burgos où nous avons visité la superbe cathédrale avec ses chapelles époustouflantes . Une belle ville
    vivante. Nous sommes arrivés sous la pluie et le soleil a fait son apparition en après-midi! Belle journée !Read more

    See translation
  • TravelerCamino De Santiago (Francés)
    211
    Day 26–27

    Hornillos del Camino to Castrojeriz

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    And the rain keeps on coming!!
    The sun made an attempt to come out early this morning but it was quickly shut down by a thunder and lightning storm that gave way to heavy rain and strong winds.
    Jamie and Sean, whom we met on our first day on the Camino, walked the meseta a week ago under full sunshine and hot weather. Jamie was complaining about that, but I would have traded the rain in a second!
    But, we take what we get. Like William Saroyan once said, “I was glad the world was there, so I could be there too”.
    The wind was blowing west to east, meaning the rain was hitting us hard on our faces.
    Half way to Castrojeriz, there is a cafe and it was open! Packed with peregrinos soaking wet and cold, it was difficult to find a place to sit. I shared a table with a young man from Japan, an American living in Valencia, and a priest from San Antonio, Texas who is moving to Baltimore in the summer. What a combination!!! After half an hour or so, it was hard to give up our seats and keep moving so that other pilgrims could warm up.
    It is so difficult to walk without looking down for fear of falling…. But every time I looked up, there it was, the immense beauty of the green fields of the meseta against a relentless dark sky.
    No picture does justice to the landscape.
    I finally arrived in Castrojeriz, visited the church, and checked into the albergue.
    What followed was just the mundane tasks of doing laundry, trying to find ways to dry my boots, talk to pilgrims a little, have dinner, and retreat to my bed to get ready for tomorrow.
    I think I have a hole in the sole of my boot because the water kept crawling in from the heel. In any case, there is no time to get a new pair and break them. I will just continue to get wet.
    If Eric could fly back home with half a sole detached from both his boots, then I can walk with a hole in one of mine.
    By the way, it will also rain tomorrow.

    Castrojeriz: Stayed at Albergue Rosalia    Read more

  • TravelerThe Beauty of Moving Slowly
    1
    Day 15

    Burgos

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Hi Everyone,

    Today was my rest day in Burgos which is a beautiful city to take it easy, walk around, do some people watching, and relax.

    As I mentioned yesterday, it’s May Day here and a public holiday. In the morning I took care of a few housekeeping items that I needed to tick off and then I hit the streets. On my way to the river, I passed the beginnings of a loud and proud crowd of workers, unionists, and an accompanying band of drummers. Everyone was getting in the mood and I got caught up in the celebrations. I asked someone if they could speak English so that I could find out about the marchers. He couldn’t help me but he called his friend Arnie over. Expecting to have a conversation in Spanglish, I was surprised when he spoke to me with a perfect British accent. Turns out Arnie is Spanish and he lives here, but his Mum is British.

    Before long, they were away and I watched them disappear up the main street before I headed back to the river and around to the cathedral through the magnificent 14th century Arco de Santa Maria. The 13th century Catedral de Santa Maria is a world heritage site and it is obvious to see why. It is one of the most impressive and beautiful structures that I have ever seen and I marvelled at the intricated carvings and works around and inside the church. The plaza in front of the cathedral was starting to get busy and the side streets of the square were populated by the locals who were out to enjoy the day.

    As I passed through one of the busy ‘tapas’ streets, I met the band and the marchers coming from the opposite direction. They headed to the main plaza where they held a rally and then everyone headed off to do whatever they had planned.

    As I said, Burgos is a beautiful city to walk around but I’m looking forward to getting out of town and back into the country. Tomorrow will be my first day on the meseta, or plains, section of the Camino. Many people skip this section and catch a train to León but I find it a very contemplative space to spend a week. The first section of the Camino to this point is often described as the physical stage where you get used to walking 25kms each day. This next stage is known by some as the mental stage where you spend a lot of time in your head. I’m looking forward to it.

    Now, I have an Efron announcement for y’all. I have discovered that, like any great entrepreneur, Efron has now cut off public access to his videos of the Camino. You can subscribe to his channel if you like but I do have a replacement for your entertainment over your morning coffee and I’ll provide a link to the first one from Hornillos tomorrow. In the meantime, here is one last blast from Efren. It includes a retrospective of what you are familiar with to this point, as well as a hint of what is to come.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b_kJIneRJAI&amp…

    Thanks for joining me so far and Buen Camino everyone.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago (Francés)
    4
    Day 25–26

    Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    It’s hard to believe I was back on the Camino today!!! Not without some challenges though.
    I decided to start early and left the hostel at 6:30. But given the fact that I am sense-of-direction challenged, I spent the first half hour lost in Burgos trying to find the way. So much for an early start. Then, after almost a week of blue skies and sunshine, it was raining this morning! Hard at times! It definitely tested my gear, which almost failed me after 6 hours on the trail.
    But not all were challenges. Just outside Rabe the la Calzada, on the way to Hornillos del Camino, there is a tiny hermitage, Hermita de la Virgen del Monasterio.
    The doors were open so I decided to go in. I was greeted by two nuns at the door. It only took one second for me to step inside to break down crying uncontrollably. They asked for my name and gave me a hug.
    I noticed that other pilgrims were crying too. There was something about them and the place that I cannot explain.
    I stayed for a while. Before every pilgrim leaves, they give them a special blessing and a little image of the virgin to protect them on the Camino.
    The open the hermitage every day so that pilgrims can find strength and respite.
    They asked me if I wanted to say something for their Facebook page, and I agreed. I am not so sure they will post it because I was crying so hard, it was difficult to decipher which language I was using.
    I finally arrived at Hornillos de la Calzada with a whole afternoon to relax and recover.
    I have another 20 km planned for tomorrow.

    Hornillos de la Calzada: Stayed at Albergue Casa del Abuelo.    Read more

  • TravelerThe Beauty of Moving Slowly
    112
    Day 14–16

    San Juan to Burgos

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This morning involved an early start for a couple of reasons. First, the place where I stayed did not offer breakfast until 9:00am which is too late to hit the Camino. Second, and because they didn’t serve breakfast, they did provide a small pack of fruit, juice and sandwich for the road. In addition, I didn’t sleep well so I was awake anyway. I waited until early light as the sun struggled to shine through the fog that surrounded the village.

    It was a foggy, crisp start to the day and the walk through the early morning mist was invigorating. The villages of Agés and Atapuerca came along quickly and I was making good time. As I came out of Agés, I crossed a small bridge built by San Juan de Ortega. There are a few bridges on the Camino that were built by San Juan and, apparently, they were built for pilgrims and are still in use today.

    Near Atapuerca there is a UNESCO archaeological site where the earliest remains of humans in Europe, dating back almost one million years, have been found. Unfortunately, the site is some way from the Camino and I am on a schedule. The climb out of Atapuerca is not a long one, certainly compared with the one out of Villafranca, but it is very rocky and it made walking really difficult.

    After that, it was all downhill to Burgos and I was particularly looking forward to the river walk that avoids the long passage of Burgos’ industrial parks and factories. As it turned out, I met Lucky Sakamoto and was in conversation with him about how he needed to book ahead with his accommodation. As a result, I missed the river walk turnoff and was consigned to ten kilometres of pavement, traffic and factories. Not the most attractive entry to Burgos but it was a reminder to me to pay attention.
    I finally made it to my accommodation which is big-city comfortable and, after showering, I headed for the local laundromat to catch up on some washing. Tonight, I ventured out to a nearby bar for an early dinner. When I came out of the café there were people everywhere and the night was just getting started. Tomorrow is Labor Day here in Spain so I’m expecting crowds of kids and families out enjoying the public holiday while others join in protests and marches. Apparently the Anarchists might make an appearance as well so who knows how it might turn out.

    It's a rest day for me tomorrow here in Burgos so I’m not sure if I’ll be posting or not.

    In the meantime, “Buen Camino” everyone.

    Click below to get your daily fix of Efren Gonzalez. Efren walked from Agés which is slightly closer to Burgos than San Juan.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iBx0F7iGLEw&amp…

    Distance today: 26 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 285 kms    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago (Francés)
    Day 24–25

    Burgos

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    After the black out and the chaos that followed, after the train cancellation, the rush to secure a bus ticket and a 9-hour-overnight ride, I arrived in Burgos this morning.
    I visited the Cathedral, took a little train ride, had lunch soaking some sun on a bench at El Espolón , and checked into my hostel.
    Burgos is a mix of old and new, but it is packed with history and amazing architecture. It is also the place where El Cid Campeador is celebrated. The weather has been perfect for wondering around and discovering hidden gems.
    Tomorrow will be a tryout to see how my foot does. I was planning on having the backpack transported, but so far, I have not been able to secure a room at my next stop. I guess that will be the next challenge: sleep under the stars on the front steps of a church.
    Good luck to me!!!

    Burgos: Stayed at Hostel Catedral Burgos    Read more

  • TravelerChris’s Camino
    21
    Day 18

    Burgos - ghost town on a Sunday morning

    April 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    The city sure changed. For several minutes, before 8, the only human I saw was a maintenance person. Took a while, and found a bakery with the most beautiful items. I got an extra one for later in the day.

    Later, I did see a few pilgrims starting their journey for the day. One French pilgrim, I had recognized from other days, took my picture and I took hers in the deserted front of the cathedral.    Read more

  • TravelerPeregrina Romana
    2
    21
    Day 15

    Von Riopico nach Burgos

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Gespannt starte ich in den heutigen Tag! Es ist saukalt, bloss 8 Grad aber ich werde heute nach Burgos kommen. Eine Grössere Stadt und zentraler Punkt auf dem Pilgerweg. V.a. die Kathedrale hats in sich!Read more

    See translation
  • Camino De Santiago
    1
    1
    Day 20–24

    Belorado - Ages - Burgos

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    12th in Belorado
    13th in Ages
    14th and 15th in Burgos

    This is the day that the Lord has made. Let us rejoice and be glad in it.

    These days were remarkable. Into Belorado? I wasn't certain I could continue this journey. Self doubt, fear, and pain in every single inch of my body warned me that I should stop. I went to sleep trying to come up with a way to tell Ken that I was going to quit. Ken...on the other hand, went to bed thinking of alternatives that would treat my health better. In the morning, I told him I was not going to quit, that my commitment to gratitude for God was stronger than my doubts and the pain. Ken answered that he thought of many alternatives that could help me if I needed them. I.e. a taxi to the next town where I could check in and rest until he arrived. But my mind was made up. I was forging ahead.

    The next day, on our way to Ages...it was my turn to lead us ahead. Torrential rain, deep red mud, rocks, a mountain with an 11% grade, freezing cold, dark day. At the base of the hill, Ken was ready to quit. Nope, we've got this...and I trudged up the mountain in my socks and toe- friendly Teva sandals. YUCK. What a mess. But at the end of the mountain??? Glorious sunshine! Ken dancing to. and a herd of horses and cows with no fence, just a dog guarding them. What a joyous end to our hike. AND...our hostel had PIZZA and a laundry room! Ahhhhh. Here are some pictures. Hope you enjoy them. :)    Read more

  • TravelerSpring 2025 Camino
    231
    Day 18

    Castrojeriz

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Last night I was blessed, along with a group of other pilgrims, by the sweetest group of nuns, and given a Miracle Medal to wear. So nice! Then went straight to the bar and chanted with a German guy, a Croatian guy and a woman from Turkey. Why didn’t I think to get a picture?? They were talking about relations between the three countries, and it was really interesting. The Turkish woman and I agreed that her president sucks but not nearly as much as mine does.

    This morning began in rain. It never got hard, or windy, and eventually it cleared off. I launched into the Meseta, and it was as wonderful as I remembered. Put me in a haiku frame of mind:

    Step by step - simple.
    Soft rain a benediction
    On my red poncho

    Again, and again,
    Just keep unwrapping this gift
    is the lesson learned.

    Chatter behind Me -
    up off the bench and go, feet!
    I prefer quiet.

    Bashō I am not, but it kept me entertained.

    Saw what must be a salamander of some sort - tiny little legs I could barely see. Anybody able to ID it?

    Arriving in Castrojeriz I of course note the ruins of a castle high on the hill above. Last time Morgan and Olly egged me on and we climbed up, in wicked heat, and explored. I gave it a friendly wave this time and called it good.    Read more

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