Armenteira

Oh my goodness - what to say besides “it rained. A lot.” Yellow rain warnings today for this part of Galicia. This morning it was the kind of rain that bounces off the ground, turns paths into streams and streams into torrents. I spent half the morning thinking about fancier rain gear or the kind of yellow rubber coats that people wear on boats. Needless to say my jacket, bought as much for weight and price as for function, did not perform well. Similar story with the rain pants. But my kitchen dishwashing gloves were great until I had to take them off, my hands got wet, and I could not get them back on. Ponchos of all shapes and sizes seem to be the rain gear of choice. Some with sleeves. Some that go right down to a person’s shins.

Everyone walking with their hoods up. One of today’s games was trying to guess what the person would be like when I could actually see them. Harder than it sounds!

There were some big sweaty hills today that, I imagine, would bring impressive views over the water on a clear day. There were also a couple of roadside trucks selling food and drinks, and tables with shells or other small Camino souvenirs for sale. About 70 or 80% of the route was on roads, but that actually seemed like the best option given the circumstances.

Feet were more or less good despite being soaked!

It’s Good Friday and the pastelerias had amazing things in their windows. I can’t believe there were any processions outdoors. But, who knows? I saw no evidence of Easter beyond the cakes and breads.

Two coffee stops - and an inordinate amount of time thinking about coffee stops. The first just before Arcade, after 8 km, in a cafe with shiny floors on which wet pilgrims and their things were leaving puddles. The second just before Pontevedra. It looked just like a regular bar from the street. A few tables out front and then five or six tables in a front room. But there was also a covered terrace off the back. At any given time there were 20 to 30 people back there - along with the 8 or 10 in the front room and the 8 or so on the front terrace. It was huge and hopping. It was the first bar on the Camino after about 8 very wet kilometres. The owners were run off their feet.

I had my coffee and a little chocolate palmier cookie with two older Norwegian men walking their first Camino. They had good rain gear! The shirts under their jackets were dry!

After that it was only about 3 km to the fancy private albergue where I am staying. It’s expensive for a hostel - about $50, same as I paid last night for a single room. But the rooms are small, the beds are super comfortable, and towels, bed linen, washer and dryer, and (apparently very good) breakfast included.

There are 3 other women in my room. One I had met a few days ago. The beds have lights, plugs, charging ports, a small table that pulls out of the wall, curtains, and a decorative throw pillow (!). There are two labeled hooks for everyone. A drawer under the bed and two big bureaus that have two more drawers for each bed. And a hairdryer. The place seems new-ish and super clean. I’m writing this in the style-y breakfast room.

I was the first one here. And got the first shower, which is always a nice thing. And I got to dry my clothes right away and sort the damp things in my pack. But that meant I missed lunchtime. At 4 pm the options were burgers or pizza. I took burgers.

By the time I was done it was pouring again. When it calmed down a bit, I just came back here to read and nap. A low key but dry evening.

More rain promised for tomorrow, but it should be less emphatic.Read more