Spain Elciego

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  • Day 9–10

    Los Arcos to Logroño

    April 25 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    As I came around the bend on a steep descent, the small gravelly pieces under my feet were acting like ball bearings. Ahead of me, a woman seemed to be staggering all over the path and appeared in danger of a major fall. I hurried as carefully as possible and drew up to her shoulder. I asked her if she was OK and if she needed anything. She turned to me with a cheery smile and said that she was fine. As it turned out, she is managing a serious personal health situation that makes my sniffles seem so pathetic. If I start whingeing again about my own situation, take me to the woodshed – please!

    As I left Los Arcos, the day was crisp and clear with no wind and a rising sun at my back. I got into stride pretty quickly and made good time to Sansol, the first town for the day. Many pilgrims had decided to stop here for breakfast so all the bars were doing great business. I moved on to Torres del Rio which is about 900 metres further on but separated by a steep, deep chasm. It was also humming. I’m intrigued that two villages developed so close to each other and wonder that in days past, maybe that chasm separated them in more than distance.

    After that, I followed a valley through olive groves and small vineyards and the walking was pretty good. There were some steep inclines along the way today but I’m just dealing with them as they come. Some days are easier than others. About an hour before Viana I came to a food truck at the top of a ridge and it was doing a roaring trade. I stopped for a drink and found my first ‘slushy’ on the Camino. Delicious fresh, icy lemonade (with real lemons) – I had to have two.

    The day was warming up and so I kept going through Viana, which is a very lively town, and then on to Logroño. After a shower and a freshen up, I met Peter for a drink and we were joined by Frank from Belgium and Johann from The Netherlands. They are great guys and I can see us having many drinks and chats along The Way before Santiago.

    Today’s video from Efren sees him join in at Torres del Rio, about 10kms further on from where I started in Los Arcos.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UPZhroqxwzc&amp…

    Distance today: 29 kms
    Total distance travelled so far: 163 kms
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  • Day 16–19

    Logroño

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We had a very rough night last night. One of those that makes you question why we are doing this and why we are subjecting ourselves to sharing rooms and bathrooms with 10 strangers when we could be sleeping in the comfort of our homes…. Or a private room somewhere.
    A gentleman arrived after everyone else was already in bed and the snoring and weird noises coming from his bunk bed were so loud we thought we may have to call an ambulance. I am sure nobody slept last night and I certainly considered packing my bag and leaving with Eric.
    We arrived in Logroño this morning and we took it slowly. The owner of the albergue where I am staying is from Argentina. He will allow me to stay two more nights to see if resting does anything to my foot.
    So, there won’t be much reporting for a couple of days (or nothing at all).
    We did get the chance to take a peak at the old city before Eric boarded the bus to Madrid to catch the plane. I will miss my adventure partner, but Simon needed his pappa back.
    This will be a different type of journey from now on.

    Logrono: Stayed at Albergue Albas
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  • Day 12

    Logroño to navarrete

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    The church here in Navarrete is fancy! Much gold. We had lunch at a bar here in Navarrete that had so many yummy looking items. Lots of locals enjoying the afternoon. Could only try a couple items. And on the way out of Logroño DUCKLINGS!!! So cute!Read more

  • Day 14–15

    Villamayor de Monjardin to Viana

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Another wonderful but challenging day. We witnessed a movie like sunrise, but the road was so muddy, it was impossible to walk at times. The
    mud stuck to our shoes and made us feel we were walking with steel boots. Besides, there was no time to look up to enjoy the landscape because one false step and we would have faced yet another injury.
    We enjoyed the sun up until noon, and then we were met with showers and more mud.
    We managed to cover the 30 km as intended, but I have learned that I cannot continue to walk that far with my injured foot. At 20 km I reach my limit and from then on it’s nothing but pain and agony.
    But we are both keeping our spirits up and there is no complaining, just taking things as they come.
    We will catch a ride tomorrow morning to cover the 10 km to Logrono so that we can have a quiet morning before Eric heads to Madrid to return home.
    I have yet to decide if I will ride back to begin where we left today or just move forward from Logrono. My foot will have the last word.

    We went out for dinner and shared our table with Jesus, a Galician living in Navarra and walking the Camino. Jesus, former military and police, shared wonderful stories of his time in the Pyrenees.

    Villamayor de Monjardin: Stayed at Albergue Villamayor de Monjardin
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  • Day 8

    Logroño - That’s it for 2025

    April 19 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    7 Tage, 162km, 3.450m bergauf, 3.230m bergab. Ich bin Santiago wieder ein Stückchen näher gekommen. 600km fehlen noch bis Santiago oder 700km bis zum Ende der Welt.

    Bisher bin ich 41 Tage auf meinem Jakobsweg unterwegs. Davon 24 Tage mit dem Bike (~2.300km) und 17 Tage zu Fuß (~400km).

    Etwas Wehmut beschleicht mich schon, ob der vielen netten Pilgerbekanntschaften aus der ganzen Welt.

    Aber eins ist klar, beim nächsten Mal geht es hier mit dem Gravelbike weiter.

    Zum Nachwandern (Zusammenfassung):
    https://www.komoot.com/de-DE/tour/2173684182?re…
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  • Day 10

    From Vendosa to Cirueña

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Die letzten 2 Tage war ich etwas neben den klassischen Übernachtungsorten in kleineren Dörfern Ventosa und Cirueña. Heute ist es kälter und windig jedoch ohne Regen! Ich treffe immer wieder nette Menschen am weg! Heute unter anderem den Weltmeister im Arschbomben 🤣! Kein Witz!!Read more

  • Day 14

    Walking solo

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    So, the profound difference between walking with someone and walking alone is really coming into focus. Today I found myself in a good conversation with a guy from Germany that probably lasted about an hour, but that is very much the exception, so far. Several people along the way have spoken very strongly of the benefit of walking alone and how much they prefer it after doing both.

    I am not inclined to compare them that way. My first Camino was so amazing - I would not change a single thing about it. I remember worrying early on that the amount of social interaction I was having was going to detract from the experience somehow, only to learn that for me it was a needed corrective, and ultimately a great source of joy.

    Now I’m having the Camino I imagined then. I’m only nine days in so maybe there are some bigger social connections ahead for me, but my growing sense right now is that there will not be, and I’m good with that. It’s early days but the - how do I even express it - the interior space that begins to - unfold? open? deepen? is more and more felt. I’m probably trying to talk about it too soon, hence the word finding trouble, but it’s what I’ve been walking with today.

    On a more down to earth level, I had a fairly long walk today that went well. Hi again though! Tomorrow is longer, and the last third is mostly uphill, but it’s supposed to be about 10 degrees cooler, so that will be nice.

    Today I revisited a church in a town famous for a story from the Middle Ages that involving a young man falsely accused of theft and hung during the pilgrimage. He was walking with his parents who continued on, brokenhearted. On their return they found him still hanging but miraculously alive. They ran to the town official and told him this. He was about to eat his roast chicken dinner and he told them their boy was as dead as the chicken on his plate, at which point the chicken leapt to its feet. The boy was cut down and released, and to this day two chickens are always housed in the Cathedral. See video evidence below.

    Tonight I am in a smaller albergue with exactly one other person, an Italian guy. Seems nice, not creepy at all, but if I disappear, his name is Duelio. Kidding! Not actually worried at all. It’s very nice to be in such a as quiet space for a change. And dinner was great!
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  • Day 13

    Longest day yet!

    April 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    I planned to walk to Nájera today, which is the standard stage. But I’d really like to get onto the Meseta, on the other side of Burgos, ahead of Santa Semana. That’s the week of Easter, and along with all the Holy Week celebrations, which I am looking forward to, it is also a week off for Spanish school kids and many families have a tradition of spending the week walking a stage of the Camino. Which is wonderful, but also it gets busy, and challenging to find a bed, or do I’ve been told. I’m thinking it may be quieter in the small towns of the Meseta. So I added one more town to my walk today and went about 35-36K, or about 21.5 miles.

    It went well! I mean, it was hot, I got tired, but I was not miserable! I think I’m really getting my legs under me.

    The sign thing is interesting. Absolutely crickets so far. I’ll keep putting it out, because who knows, but maybe it’s just a little too weird for people? It seems like a potentially great fit for the Camino to me, but maybe not? The upside is I really have been loving my days walking alone. Plenty of chats in diner stops and at the albergues. This kind of time and space to just be is an amazing gift.

    I stopped at a place offering “English breakfast “ today. Yes please!

    Also walked through a great area with a lake, lots of birds, including the two in the picture, and squirrels the general size and shape of our grays but a really pretty red.

    I’m in the Rioja region now. Lots and lots of vineyards, looking very different from my first Camino, when they were loaded with grapes. Also lots of olive trees.
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  • Day 48

    Wein & Tapas / Logroño 🍷🍘

    April 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    zum Apero wollten wir zur LAN Degustation. Auf der Homepage war alles schön beschrieben und tönte sehr einladend. Ernst freute sich wie gestern 😉. Wir fuhren km weit durch Rebbergen. Der Rioja Alta zb hat gerade 587 Hektaren Reben (bei uns ein mittlerer Winzer ca 20 Hektaren). Angekommen standen wir erstmals vor verschlossenem Tor und nach mehrmaligem Klingeln wurden wir unfreundlich empfangen 🥴 kein Weintasting nur kaufen , zahlen und gehen. Das taten wir dann auch. Sehr schade! 🥺
    Weiter gings dann nach Logroño zur bekannten Strasse Calle del Laurel. Da haben wir ganz schön zugeschlagen 😋
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  • Day 47

    Wenn Männerherzen höher schlagen 🍇

    April 3 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    auch Männer haben Träume… 😉 nur etwas anders als Frauen 😜 ich träume vom Tierschutz und er vom Wein ❤️ für mich passt beides! Heute im Tal des Rioja‘s. Wunderschön zu sehen wo unsere Lieblingsweine (unter anderem 🤭) wachsen dürfen. Der Bezug dazu ist nun etwas spezielles 🍷 wenn man Geschichte und Leute kennenlernen durfte.Read more

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