Spain Iria

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  • Day 34–35

    A Salceda to A Lavacolla

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Last night at the albergue I had a wonderful experience. I was sitting in the common area and a lady came in with a big smile on her face and red crazy hair. She sat next to me and for no particular reason, she started laughing. She had this wide, open, contagious laugh that made me and a young pilgrim sitting across from us to also laugh uncontrollably. For about 10 minutes. All three of us strangers, no words having been said. When we finally got our composure, we realized we could not communicate because we had no common language and so, we laughed some more, then went to bed. Her name is Judith, from Austria and that is all she could convey.
    It was sprinkling this morning, but the temperature was nice and the rain held off so nobody got wet.
    There was a good number of pilgrims this morning, including a rambunctious high school student group. I saw them coming out of their albergue and after a km or so on the trail one of the teachers tried to count them. Well, that was just about the one and only time. Pretty soon they were all spread out and the poor teacher just gave up. So, there were a lot of sweatshirts being dragged on the mud, a lot of phones being dropped i. the mud and into the pools of water, some colorful language being used… but for the most part they were lovely.
    Since I walked few miles today (just 18), I arrived at the albergue too early to check in. There was another couple waiting also and so we decided to go have lunch together. They are both recently retired, and hikers from Maine.
    Tomorrow I am planning on having an early start in order to cover the last 10 km to Santiago.
    It will be bitter sweet, since yesterday I learned that Sean, the cowboy from Alabama whom we met at the beginning of our journey will not be able to make it. He can’t walk any more due to an injury. It has been devastating for him and his wife, so close to the finish line.

    A Lavacolla: Stayed at Albergue A Fábrica
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  • Day 19

    Monastary Albergue

    May 10 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    The day started with a boat trip which took us up the estuary of the Ulla river past twelve crosses, allegedly the route St. James took to Padua. The ferry could be called a 'party boat' as there was music, singing and free cake and coffee, so we were in fine form to meet up with friends on arrival. The weather change to rainy skies meant a return to my penguin costume as we walked yet another variant ( remember that means lost!) to the next monastery. Arrival shortly before opening gave us time to snarf our packaged cheese sandwich, knowing that the evening ahead entailed settling in to our bunks, attending a 1 1/2 hr tour of the monastery and church, Mass, a special blessing for us pilgrims complete with certificate and then communal supper at 8:45 pm. The supper included wine and whiskey type liquor after dinner shots!
    Guess that is a hing here. Helps the pilgrims to get a good night's sleep on the paper sheets over plastic mattresses. It worked😂
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  • Day 18

    Leisure day in Santiago and Milladoiro

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Met for dinner with Arlene’s original walking friend Jayme last night near our apartment. It was nice to see her again and as she went her own way once we arrived in Porto.

    Today, Kenny, Arlene and I spent about an hour trying to find a taxi to drive us back the the Cathedral in Santiago trying to avoid the 4.5 mile walk there and finally successful. We were able to get inside the cathedral and appreciate the beauty and be amazed by the artistry and age.

    We lit 4 candles in honor of my dad, my in-laws and my sister-in-law, Sharon with prayers for each of them. We toured the cathedral and saw Tomb of Saint James’ remains.

    Had a wonderful afternoon with Jayme after she and Rich attended Mass. we celebrated with a bottle of bubbly and yummy snacks.

    Tomorrow Kenny and I head to Barcelona. It will not be the same without all my travel companions. I so appreciate the time we’ve been together and all that we have shared. An unforgettable adventure. Thank you ❤️
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  • Day 36

    Day 33 - The end of a journey?

    May 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    “It is good to have an end to journey towards; but it is the journey that matters, in the end.”—-Ursula K. Le Guin

    Today , at 10:30a Santiago time, I completed my Camino. However, they say the real Camino begins when you get home. Time will tell, but I have a feeling they are right.

    I left the Aubergue early this morning and took my time even stopping a few times for a cappuccino. I guess I wanted to prolong the journey. I was surprised I didn’t see many pilgrims on the path; perhaps they all decided to sleep in.

    Arriving in front of the Cathedral was a feeling I can’t explain. I’m 70 freakin’ years old and I did it! I walked from Lisbon to Santiago! The tears flowed and I tried to hold them back as I asked a stranger to take my photo. I connected with people from all around the world. Some just exchanging polite pleasantries and others having deep, meaningful conversations. I witnessed humanity at its finest. I wish more people would travel and really connect with other cultures; perhaps then we could achieve peace on earth.

    I went to mass and was surprised and excited when they used the Botafumeiro, which is not always the case. It was just like in the movie The Way. I’ve attached a video.

    The ‘Botafumeiro’ is the famous giant thurible or censer in the Santiago de Compostela cathedral. It has been used since the Middle Ages, originally to clean the air when crowds of pilgrims, having completed the Camino de Santiago, arrived in Santiago de Compostela after their long journey

    The current ‘Botafumeiro’ dates back to 1851, and it’s made of silver-plated brass, weighing 53kgs when empty and up to 10 kgs more when full. Eight men, called ‘Tiraboleiros’, are required to operate the ‘Botafumeiro’. It was quite the sight!

    Afterwards I received my official compostela and then met my friends, the Genovese gang to celebrate.

    This afternoon, after a short nap, I also went thru Santiago’s Holy Door which is open only during Jubilee years and received an additional, special, compostela. As I was leaving the church bells were ringing throughout the city. A new Pope had been selected, an American Pope! The Catholics I spoke to were quite happy with the choice.

    Then this evening I found the perfect restaurant to have a celebratory dinner for one, the name of the restaurant was ‘Restaurant San Jaime’. I decided to refrain from telling them they spelled Jayme wrong. The food was excellent, worth every euro.

    Tomorrow Rich, Arlene, and I have foot massages booked. We will explore the city some more before we go our separate ways: me to Madrid then home and they to Paris.

    Thank you for following my journey!
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  • Day 17–20

    Made it to Santiago!

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Easy trek into Santiago today less than 5 miles from our apartment. I was surprised with so many pilgrims in route with us and how populated the center was. A very warm day and as excited to get to the finish line. The cathedral was incredible and massive!! The grounds were clean and well populated and saw few tour groups and kids school trips. Such a feeling of celebration and I was asked often to take group photos.

    We were able to reunite with Jayme for dinner tonight who started this pilgrimage with Arlene back in Lisbon.

    It has been a great experience and one I’m very proud of. I feel blessed to spend these weeks with my family and honestly impressed with my physical and mental strength. Still dealing with this cold and hoping for some slower days to recoup.

    Arlene, Rich, Kenny and I are staying an extra night in Santiago tomorrow night. Noelle leaves in the morning to Fisterra and Arlene and Rich leave Friday to Paris and Kenny and I leave Friday to Barcelona for a few days. It has been wonderful to all be together for this journey. ❤️
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  • Day 35

    Day 32 - Love, Hope, & Protection

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 52 °F

    “Those we love don’t go away. They walk beside us every day. Unseen, unheard, but always near. Still loved, still”― Alex MacLean

    I arrived in O Milladoiro this afternoon; I’m just a few short miles from Santiago and will complete my journey tomorrow.

    When I left the comforts of my home, I carried with me tokens of love, hope, and protection. LOVE: my parents’ cremation tags; I wanted to have them in some way accompany me on this journey. HOPE: my peace sign; a visual prayer for the world and my children. PROTECTION: While not catholic a dear friend gave me a rosary blessed by the late pope to protect me on my journey; it did its job Paul, thank you.

    This has been quite the journey and I have met so many wonderful people from different countries and walks of life. This morning I ran into Dorka from Hungary, who I shared some wine with last night. She said she made some special bracelets to give out to people she met on the Camino and gave me one. What a lovely gesture. I’ve attached a photo of it and you’ll also notice how dark my hands are. I have a 3-tier farmers tan: my hands are very dark, the forearms a little lighter tan, and the upper part of my arms are pale 🤣🤣🤣

    Today my friends Arlene, Rich, Deb, Kenny, and Noel made it to Santiago. However, their apartment for the night is in the town I’m in so we all went out to dinner. It was great catching up and sharing our stories since we diverged on different paths out of Porto (they did the Coastal and Spiritual while I stayed on the Central route).

    Tomorrow the journey will end, but I will spend Thursday and Friday in Santiago. Saturday I fly to Madrid and then I fly home on Sunday.
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  • Day 16–18

    In O Milladoiro now

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Short walk from port of Vilanova this morning to 2 hour boat ride transfer to Padron, another old town with historic sites. It was quite chilly and I wondered why my backpack was lighter today and realized I was wearing 6 layered tops and still cold!!

    Kenny, Arlene and I walked 9 miles today along countryside, beautiful maze like town, highways and hills and weather did warm up and was able to shed several layers. We were looking for a taxi towards the end and Kenny found one which saved us last 2 mile. I’m still fighting this cold and Arlene and Kenny now are sick so we were thankful to get here and take a nap.

    Had a small mishap where Arlene left her cell phone in taxi and by sheer luck and perseverance we were able to reunite her with it. We say The Camino provides and it did for us today.

    Noelle found this lovely 3 bedroom apartment in town and were able to pick up pizza, calzones and salad for dinner and treat of ice cream for dessert.

    Easy day tomorrow as we are less than 5 miles to Santiago where we will enjoy the day leisurely and hope for extra rest. What a journey!!
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  • Day 34

    Day 31 - Laurent continues!

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    “It's funny how, in this journey of life, even though we may begin at different times and places, our paths cross with others so that we may share our love, compassion, observations, and hope.” ― Steve Maraboli

    Today I went from Pontecesures to A Escravitude; it wasn’t the prettiest walk. Much of it followed a busy road but there were some small quaint villages.

    Outside of Padrón I stopped at a cafe for a morning cappuccino and who should be there? But Laurent and his family. Last I saw Laurent he told me he had to quit the Camino because of a bad fall in the shower and his family would continue on without him. But it appears his family had a ‘no man left behind attitude’ and after a day’s rest, convinced Laurent to keep on the journey; that they would go slower. That it was important to them to all finish together. Such support! And I know that even though Laurent had done other Caminos that this one was special to him because he was doing it with his family.

    At lunch I met an older woman, perhaps in her 80’s, who was also doing shorter walks this last week. Like me, she is walking to O Milladoiro tomorrow which then will give her a very short walk into Santiago on Thursday.

    The Aubergue I am at tonight is very modern and I did upgrade to have a private room and bath. There were no restaurants around so I had a salad that the kitchen offered for sale and shared some wine with Dorka, a young lady from Hungary. She also is stretching out these last few days and plans to do the short walk on Thursday to Santiago.

    It’s hard to believe I’ve been walking for a month and 1 day! It’s been quite the experience: Physically, mentally, and emotionally challenging. I am so happy with my choice to do the Camino.
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  • Day 15–16

    In Vilanova de Arousa now

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Noelle hooked us up with a larger taxi for all 5 of us to get back on The Camino from our rural albergue. Beautiful and fairly easy walk today just under 9 miles.

    Stopped for the best breakfast along the water with the most varied choices and we stayed well over an hour, kept ordering more food and coffees and I needed up with a little heart shaped spoon…..the cutest thing ever!

    Fairly quiet day and didn’t see many pilgrims or locals. Made it to Villanova area and Kenny and I found a local outdoor public family friendly playground pub where we enjoyed a few beers and waited for all of us to convene. Noelle met a pilgrim from Amsterdam on a bike trip who joined us which was great.

    We have an early start tomorrow as we are taking a 1.5 hour boat trip along the spiritual variant route getting us closer to Santiago.
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  • Day 33

    Day 30 - Camino tears

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    “Those who do not weep, do not see.” – Victor Hugo

    Today I walked from Caldas de Reis to Pontecesures and experienced a bad case of ‘Camino Tears’. Camino tears are not necessarily tears of sadness and they can strike when least expected.

    On the path today, in the distance I saw two young gentlemen walking with an elderly person in between them. They shielded the elder from the mid-day sun with an umbrella and walked slowly. I caught up with them as they stopped once they reached the woods to put away the umbrella. It was a father and his two sons; they were of Asian decent. I asked if I could take their photo and they eagerly agreed and asked if I could also take one with their camera.

    As I walked away that’s when the Camino Tears hit me. I was sobbing like a baby at the love they showed their father. In my mind I imagined that this must be one of his wishes to walk the Camino. The scene conjured up thoughts of my parents who are long gone and the tears intensified. There were few pilgrims on the path at this time, but I didn’t care if anyone saw me crying. Finally, I got the crying under control

    Since I am doing shorter walks I take frequent breaks to enjoy the scenery. I found a lovely sheltered bench on a bridge over a flowing creek and decided it was the perfect spot for a long leisurely break and snack.

    Who should show up a few minutes later but the 2 sons and their father. I found out that they were from the Philippines. The father, Jesus, was 85 years old. In 2016 he had walked from Sarria to Santiago on the French Way. He said this was his last Camino, they had started in Tui, and it was his wish that his sons, Roger and Michael, join him. He said he had some things (emotional) that he wanted to unburden himself of and to establish his legacy before he died. His sons smiled and looked adoringly at their father.

    And then those darn Camino Tears started flowing again. I explained they were not tears of sadness but that I was touched by the love and compassion they had for each other. I told them how I started crying soon after taking their photo. The father looked at me and said ‘the Camino has a way of touching us deep in our soul. Whether it is to be humbled by nature’s beauty or the people we meet, it is the Camino speaking to you’. (This was not helping the tear situation). I finally gained my composure and we chatted for a few more minutes and then they went along their way.

    Today was definitely cathartic. Perhaps emotions are running high because it will soon be over or perhaps it was the Camino’s way of touching my soul.
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