Spain León

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  • Day 2

    Exploring León

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    A shower and a change of clothes felt wonderful after 48 hours of travel! I set out to explore León. I saw my first Camino marker, stopped in at the Basilica San Isidoro, then Katedral León. It is such a beautiful building with so much history.

    Then I had two things on my agenda. Eat something and buy some poles. The lack of sleep made me completely indecisive; so, after wandering aimlessly, I headed back to my hotel and found amazing homemade potato chips, free with a beer 🍺 🍺 (una más, por favor), and a great price for 2 cheerful yellow hiking poles (both places less than a block from my hotel.)

    Now satiated and exhausted, I am heading to bed.
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  • Day 9

    Abstecher nach Leon

    April 7 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Ein sehr guter Tip vom Stefan (ein Freund von meinem Vater) dass wir unbedingt einen Abstecher nach Leon machen sollen. Eine angenehme Stadt, am Abend steppt hier der Bär. Stadtnähe haben wir einen Stellplatz bekommen. 20 Minuten sind wir zu Fuß rein gelaufen. Es gibt es viele Kirchen in der Stadt und ganz viele kleine Straßen wo die Bars sind. Morgen werden wir dann wieder ans Meer fahren.Read more

  • Day 74

    Travel day to Zamora

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 45 °F

    It's kind of a long, boring day of waiting. We packed up and walked in the mix of snow and rain to the train station (about 3/4 of a mile). The temperature was hovering right around freezing.

    We catch our train to Madrid at 3:15 and then another one to Zamora at about 8:20. We are supposed to have a 3 hr layover, but the last two trains from Leon have both been late in leaving. I am glad we have some cushion.

    There are not many photos today, and we get into Zamora after 9 pm. The walk from the train station to our new place isn't too far.
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  • Day 3

    Day 1 - Leon to Oncina

    April 10 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I had SUCH a good sleep! And the hotel provided a filling breakfast. I was in no rush today, so didn’t start to walk until about 10:00.

    Walking out of León was easy but via sidewalks and industrial zones. At one point was a big pedestrian overpass, but it was blocked off. I must have looked confused but a local woman redirected me to an alternative route.

    I walked a bit with a woman from the UK, my first pilgrim contact! I was at the albergue by 1:00, with time for a cerveza.

    The albergue I stayed in tonight was charming and peaceful in a sleepy little town. There were 5 pilgrims, from Germany, New Zealand, and Canada. There was a communal meal which included paella. Very yummy.
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  • Day 67

    Leon Day 1

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    We picked up the Easter program, and it looks like at least 8 of the processions will go almost right by our apartment starting Friday night. There will be one Friday and Saturday. There will be 4 on Palm Sunday and one each on Monday and Tuesday. In Spain, Easter is a major holiday, and there are whole groups or confraternities that are dedicated to its celebration with uniforms, bands, and floats. The processions make their way through the streets, basically telling the story of Easter. I will take some videos and photos. We'll also see similar celebrations in Zamora.

    I am still feeling pretty rough. I took 2 naps today and made a big pot of chicken noodle soup (which helped me feel better.) We did go sit out in the sun a little on the two plaza nearest us the Plaza Mayor (where city hall is located) and Plaza San Martin which is basically a plaza with a ton of bars and restaurants on an open square.

    Apparently, it gets quite lively in this area. Our landlord told us it was perfectly safe to be out and about, but also left us ear plugs as Spanish fiestas (as in celebrating Easter) can go until early morning.

    Our little apartment has a washing machine and a decent kitchen although plates and glassware are not plentiful. I had Phil buy a couple of coffee cups and a vegetable peeler when he went our earlier today.

    I hope tomorrow I will feel well enough to visit some of the sites before the tourists arrive for the weekend.
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  • Day 2

    España 🇪🇸

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Two sleepless nights in a rows is taking a toll! But tonight I have a private room!

    I arrived in Madrid 🛫 about 6:45 a.m. (10:45 p.m. Edmonton time) and made my way to the train 🚆 station.

    Everything went smoothly except for some difficulty activating an eSIM on my phone. But I did have time for a café con leche and a cerveza limón!

    The high speed train to León was lovely and included a full lunch. Then it was a short walk to my hotel with that private room. I’ll start using albergues tomorrow.

    Now I’m off to see the Cathedral and a few other places. And maybe find tapas. 🍷🇪🇸⛪️
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  • Day 27

    Leon we Rest

    October 18, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Day 25. First rest day. 2 nights in the same place. Luxury. The room is ginormous, there’s a lovely view of a park like space. Very nice indeed. Leon is all about the Cathedral for me. Love the windy streets in the old town and the views of the Cathedral as you walk. The old town is surrounded also by high walls which is interesting. Ventured out to visit a physio for a much needed massage again this year. Javier was happy to see us again. Maximising the rest day this afternoon before mass at the Cathedral this evening. Tomorrow we push on to a private room in an albergue and a communal dinner in house.Read more

  • Day 32–34

    Reliegos to Leon

    September 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Leon was amazing. We took a rest day here. Leon is my dad’s name & it felt like coming home when I arrived, i felt my dad’s presence and it made it more special. The walks into & out of the cities are long and hard though. It takes a long time to cover the kms on the outskirts of a city. Lots of waiting to cross roads and traffic and industrial areas and shitty outer neighbourhoods. Was beautiful in the morning though. Ed again got late start & sat in cafe and got a taxi the final part of the journey as it was getting late and pretty shitty laborious walking so I suggested he get a taxi… we stayed at a fantastic hostel with little light filled balconies jutting out from the building looking out over cafes and street life, just metres from incredible gothic cathedral. We had such a lovely couple of days, together and alone and with new friends. We ate pizza and churros dipped in chocolate and ice cream and baked cheese cake. I’ve been eating huge amounts of food with all the walking. I think I’ve put on a bit of weight which feels good. We’re well over halfway now… ✌🏾Read more

  • Day 24

    El Burgo Ranero to Leon

    September 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today we made it to Leon. Sadly it is our last day of walking. We walked 20km today on a great trail that was representative of our trip. We had flat roads, hills , lots of rain, magical forests, rivers and bridges and then one last reunion with our Camino Familia. We didn't think we would see everyone again but our Familia walked or took trains 67 km in two days to be with us one last time. We are incredibly sad to be ending our Camino walk but this has truly been the most enriching experience of our lives. This path has taught us patience, perseverance, to let go of control, to be more respectful of eachother and of ourselves , to cherish each step that we take and to realize that everybody has a sad story to tell but we have all become stronger because of it and because of eachother.
    We will start again from Leon next September but nothing will ever be the same as this. Magical moments in time where fate and circumstance have brought us together.
    Today's Camino is brought to you by....one more hill, free hierbas, hidden doors, fate, familia, full hearts and hating goodbyes.
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  • Day 18

    Day 15: Kings of Leon

    September 15, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Paulus Minimus came up with a great plan to have two rest nights in the wonderful city of Leon. Paul Maximus thought this was the best idea ever as we were both knackered.

    Today has been spent very casually with the purpose of resting our bodies. We got up late (not the usual 6:30 am), had a late breakfast and then shifted into a new digs down the road as current booking had no rooms for second night. Now staying in what appears to be a former Franciscan friary, converted into smart twin bed rooms for pilgrims. Church next door if anyone has the compulsion to attend a pilgrims mass at 17:30.

    Afternoon spent wandering around the congested eating streets of Leon. Popped into the Basilica of a San Isidore (thanks Antonio!), which is located on the site of an ancient Roman temple. Its Christian roots can be traced back to the early 10th century when a monastery for Saint John the Baptist was erected on the grounds.

    Next we tried to get into the Musea de Leon for the exhibits on the Camino, but being a Monday in Spain, it was closed! So what now awaits us is a visit to the premier Leon Cathedral, which opens at 4 pm. Meanwhile, I have retreated from the intense 28 degree afternoon heat and just had a siesta in our room. I think I could fit easily into the relaxed Spanish lifestyle, obligatory afternoon siesta, followed by late evening socialising. All complemented by great food, drink and conversation.

    Small Paul is still out there, taking it all in and tolerating the heat. He loves soaking in the atmosphere of a place; noticing how locals do things and where a good inexpensive bar is located.

    We head out to tomorrow by bus to Hospital de Orbigo to avoid walking through industrial Leon. We plan to walk 15 km to Astorga, from where we will make our final push to Santiago de Compestela over the next 12 days.

    Buen Camino everyone!
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