Spain Sarria

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  • Day 20

    Day 19 Portomarin

    April 21 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    A 23km day and so far walked 421km. I think I have about 200km to go
    I walked some of the day in the poncho but it was mostly dry. The beginning of the day was quite busy as a whole bunch of new people (most) start here,Sarria,but as I walked more, the mob spread out and it turned out to be a nice walk (no need to elbow people haha SH). You know I keep telling people at home, ah the Camino is doable, just go at your own speed and you'll be fine. BUT those km still need to be walked and most is up or down. Not so much flat and honestly I don't know if everyone can do it. I am tired at the end of the day. I keep thinking of that 78 yrs lady I met that was supposed to do the big climb same day as me...wonder what happened? Did she make it in that weather?? Did she try or just taxi it?
    Horreos are Galician grain storage they used in the old days. They are now all national monuments and you cannot destroy or remove them from your property. The ones with crosses used to belong to the church and of course that 's where's you stored your share to the church. Today since you can't remove them, people use them like a shed to store summer patio furniture..it's true, maybe not your lawn mower since they're pretty high up 😁
    Well I'm blabbing since most people now are not very friendly, no more holas or buen caminos, they just pass you without a word. Only 1 more day then I skip to Santiage on Wednesday. I like this pick and chose Camino😆 Thursday new territory 🙃🙃🙃🤗
    RIP Francis😔
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  • Day 19

    Day 18 Sarria

    April 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Ah the world is back to normal.. Dang what was that yesterday? Crazy! Today only an 18km dry walk cause I'm meeting up with Lucian and Sonny later. Most of the day was in the muddy woods with alot of steep climbs. A Spanish young man was a bit worried and stayed close, often asking if I was ok. So nice🤗. So just waiting for the dryer to stop then heading out to see if there is Easter stuff happening.Read more

  • Portomarin

    April 6 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Despite the sore feet a beautiful day, at least with hundreds of people, seems everyone starts a section of the Camino here.4 people yesterday literally hundreds today. Walked with a couple of great young Americans today with a church group. Great company. Another 24 tomorrow but below a hundred to go.Read more

  • Day 40–41

    Day 36 Sarria to Portomarin

    October 29, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Perfect weather today for a 14 mile hike
    On the last 100 km to Santiago
    Foggy morning then cleared up to blue sky
    Our group has increased to 11, Marty’s wife, daughter, sister and brother in law joined us
    Old Roman church from 11th century
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  • Day 37

    Sarria to Portomarin

    October 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    And now we are four, Sophie has arrived and brought the spirit with her. We will all walk into Santiago together. Beautiful day, walking once again in the mystical early morning fog, which cleared to a very spectacular day. Today has been some of the prettiest scenery we’ve had, green fields, stone walls, incredible fences, we could have been walking through a happy fairytale. Oh, and spectacular butterfly’s, they make it all the more magical. Not long to go now. 🦋🍁🍂Read more

  • Day 12

    Sarria-Portomarin 13 1/2 miles

    October 24, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 54 °F

    I have more complaining to do. My feet fricking hurt. They hurt so bad. This was my only fear before I left. I knew I could handle the Camino physically but I worried about my feet hurting. And they do. They are in agony.

    Okay. That’s it for the complaining.

    We passed a major milestone today. We have less than 100 km to go. When Laura started, she had 767 km to go, so this was a BFD. It was really an honor to be with her when she got to that 100 km marker.

    From here on out, we are required to have two stamps per day in our Credencial del Peregrino to prove we walked the final 100 km (spoiler alert: I’m not going to walk every last km and if the Pope doesn’t like it, well…). Pilgrims get stamps at hotels, albergues, cathedrals, restaurants, even taxi cabs. Laura’s credencial is practically full but I still have plenty of empty boxes, of course. When we get to Santiago, we’ll have to show it to…someone somewhere…in order to receive our compostela but the credencial itself ends up being a really cool souvenir.
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  • Day 11

    Fonfria-Pintin 13 miles

    October 23, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Today was my first psychologically difficult day. I’ve reached the point where my feet are wholly unhappy plus I’m missing my babies and the comforts of home. So I’m feeling a little weepy.

    There were two routes we could take today. One was flatter but 7 km (4+ miles) longer. We opted for shorter. Laura went on ahead while I took a longer break because I really wanted to try to go the full 17 miles today. Then I accidentally took the longer route. Fortunately I figured it out before too long but I didn’t need that extra 1/2 mile on a day like today.

    On our shorter but not-flat route, the ups felt endless and the downs became agonizing. I slowed to practically a crawl out of concern about falling and because walking on the balls of my feet causes me a lot of pain. So I do this slow shuffle where I land on my heels and crouch a little so that my knees don’t take the brunt of it. So my quads were screaming at me too. Every body part would like a word with me, apparently.

    At one point, there were two paths ahead, one that went up and one that went steeply down. I knew that if the descent was the Camino path I’d burst into tears. Thankfully it wasn’t.

    I finally made it to Pintin, a town that had an open restaurant, and I went in, got myself an Orange Aquarius, and asked them to call me a cab to Sarría, where we are staying tonight.

    I texted with my friend Donna from Charlottesville, whom I haven’t seen since last Thursday, because I knew she was in Sarría tonight too. Turns out she’s staying across town. We laughed about the fact that it’s easier to drive three hours to Charlottesville than it is to walk 20 minutes after a day like today. We won’t see each other again most likely—at least not in Spain. But I’m grateful that she was one of the wonderful friends I made on the Camino.
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  • Day 45–46

    Sarria to Portomarin

    October 14, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Yesterday we past the 100km threshold so not far to go now. It was Monday yesterday & we were joined by many school groups of young people Ed’s age walking out of Sarria. Soo different. Many people on the path and in the cafes. Was nice to see Ed quietly observing. Last night Ed was sitting outside our albergue on his phone for ages, which is in incredible location over looking the river, kids were going down to the river & breaking bottles 😊. teens similar the world over. We are no longer in the high mountains but still a bit of up & down walking and lush green farming country. Yesterday we saw a dog and an old farmer asleep in the sun on the side of a field having siesta. It seemed intrusive to take a photo. I’m tired and even though not far to go the km’s feel heavy. We have been on the road for 6 weeks, will be 7 by the time we finish, this is longer than most people. I’m feeling a bit on my own carrying both our discomforts and negotiating our different preferences & not having familiar faces with us & path friends. Last night we stayed in quite comfortable place but they gave us 2 separate top bunks. I nearly cried & a young man with bottom bunk next to us noticed and offered to go in a top bunk so we could share a bunk. I was so grateful, one that he noticed & also to be able to sort our stuff together and not have to climb up and down. It’s hard organising all our stuff, harder from top bunk when we are not together. Then I had a chat with a Swedish woman & i saw her again at breakfast so that felt good. She could see how much effort it is to be with a teen who doesn’t see me. I had a good sleep & we have short day today thankfully. Only 17km to eirexe. We have couple of over 20km days this week then I planned a short day into Santiago as walking into cities can be long and hard with the traffic etc.Read more

  • Day 44–46

    Filoval to Sarria

    October 12, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Hola, we have at last arrived in Sarria which feels like the beginning of the end. Just one week to go now. This is the place where many pilgrims start and do the 100km to Santiago & get the Compostella certificate. I have mixed feelings as we near the end. We are having a rest day today in our first private room with our own bathroom & actual towels. It feels incredible luxury. The sun is shining in the window, we will do washing & have clean dry clothes. The previous night was worst albergue of the trip. I came in drenched & cold and stayed that way. My trousers were still not quite dry in the morning. The night before that I thought I was in heaven perched on top of a mountain with friends & warm fire and incredible beauty. There were also cows and farming. I find that I’m soothed by the fertile lush land where the villages seem to be prosperous. The weather changes quickly. I couldn’t see out the window this morning so much cloud and now it’s beautiful sunny. Goes from rain to sun too. The days have been so full. Walking is slower in the rain and getting dry and clean takes time and energy. That is part of the beauty of it, walk, find a place to sleep, wash, eat. Repeat.Read more

  • Day 27

    Sarria

    September 30, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    I don’t know what got into me, but I think I have wings! I flew today! My legs feel strong, body too, and I was passing by people like nothing. I should be strong by now. There is only 100km to go. Now or never. Sarria is where tons of people enter the trail with suitcases being transported from town to town. If you walk at least the last 100km you get a Compostela in Santiago certifying your journey. Doesn’t matter if you haven’t walked the whole way, you still get one as long as you collect 2 stamps per day for the next 5 or 6 days (or as long as you want to take to complete the last 100km). It’s fine with me. I used to get a little pissy about the ‘tourogrinos’ who join it at the end with their pretty shoes, makeup, perfume, etc and then waltz into Santiago, taking a seat at the limited seating at the pilgrims mass just to see the huge botafumerio swing. Not anymore. To each their own. Maybe they have health issues preventing them from completing the whole 500 miles, maybe they can only take a week off from work, maybe they don’t have the money, maybe they are caring for someone at home and don’t have the time…and just maybe they do the last 100km for a taste of this sweet, amazing, journey and decide to return for the whole thing another year. It’s not my business, I will greet them as if they have been walking from France or Portugal like many have. It’s a beautiful thing and I know the last days will go so fast as they usually do so I won’t wast my time concerning myself with that. I’m grateful I have had this opportunity.
    About today. I saw so many beautiful landscapes, cows and goats pasturing, moss growing on everything, a beautiful labyrinth, mountain trails that tried to break me, downs that tested my knees, and going several kilometers without a coffee stop (poor Tammy!!). I lost Holly for awhile too. Ugh. I got ahead of her but thought hey we’ve been doing this for hundreds of miles and she knows how to follow yellow arrows and the several who are walking this trail, she even has the app this year. I had faith in her. Well apparently she followed a silver arrow downhill to someone’s farm! Another pilgrim whistled 3 times before she realized no one around here whistles for their dog THREE times (they turnaround after one!) so she turned back to see another pilgrim trying to tell her she was going the wrong way! We had talked about our break spot earlier, so I stopped at the first one I saw to use the restroom and get a coffee. I sat there for about 15 minutes thinking no way was I that far ahead of her. When I turned off to the cafe I looked back saw a pink shirt like hers and hair like hers so I was certain she saw me turn off into the cafe. When I came out of the bathroom there was a woman in a pink shirt, hair like Hollys, but not the same pants. Shit it wasn’t her. So I downed my coffee and got back on the trail. A few Km ahead there was another cafe and there she was with her cute orange backpack yelling “hey you, I’m here!!!!” She had asked most people in the cafe if they’d seen me and one person had at the last stop. Sylvia, Brian, Susie, Brad, Bianca…she had them all involved. That’s Holly, my little networker 😂. She finished her tea and we were off to finish the last 5 Km TOGETHER! We arrived in Sarria by 1pm, showered, went and did our laundry, and then off to have some great Italian food at a restaurant that had amazing reviews. I had the lasagna and it was the best I’ve had, ever. Brad and Susie showed up and we had a great visit, learned more about their lives in Australia and came back ‘home’ to pack up for tomorrow into Portomarin. We have about 23km to walk and a 50% chance of rain. Let’s hope it either does it tonight or after we arrive at our destination tomorrow!? Time for sleep, more tomorrow! ❤️😘
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