Spain Auritz

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  • Day 2

    Tag 2 - Der Esel bin ich…

    May 7 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Ein weiser Australier (also eigentlich der Australier von gestern im Transportbus) hat mal gesagt:
    Jedem passiert auf dem Weg irgendetwas. JEDEM!
    Okay, aber doch nicht gleich am ersten Tag, oder? Tja, mir offenbar doch. Dann hab ich’s ja jetzt wenigstens schon hinter mir.

    Heute Morgen hab ich mir beim Packen extra Zeit gelassen. Ab 9:00 Uhr wollte ich meinen Koffer im Transportbüro abgeben – der sollte nämlich direkt nach Santiago de Compostela geschickt werden. Da sind ein paar Sachen drin, die ich jetzt nicht brauche. Beziehungsweise: Dort dann schon. Nach fünf Wochen will ja selbst ich Modemuffel mal was anderes anziehen.
    Um 9:15 Uhr stand ich also vor dem Büro von „Express Bourricot“. Witzigerweise heißt das übersetzt so viel wie „Esel-Express“. Der Esel war aber eindeutig ich. Das Büro öffnet nämlich nicht, wie ich mir im Vorfeld notiert hatte, um 9:00 Uhr – es SCHLIESST um 9:00 Uhr. Geöffnet ist von 7:00 bis 9:00 Uhr. Und natürlich: Niemand mehr da.
    Das ist wieder typisch ich. Da plane ich alles minutiös und stehe dann wie der sprichwörtliche Esel vor der geschlossenen Tür. Was nun? Die Nummer, die am Büro klebte, habe ich angerufen – keine Antwort. Klar, draußen hörte ich das Telefon zwar klingeln, aber drinnen war ja nun niemand mehr da, der hätte abnehmen können.
    Zurück in die Pension konnte ich den Koffer auch nicht bringen. Erstens, weil die Pension komplett kontaktlos funktioniert – Türen per Code, nie jemanden gesehen, keiner da. Und zweitens, weil mein Zugangscode schon gelöscht war.
    Ich kürze das Drama mal ab: Ich bin tatsächlich die erste Etappe mit meinem zwölf Kilo Rucksack auf dem Rücken UND einem acht Kilo Kabinen-Trolley in der Hand gelaufen. Am Anfang kam ich mir schon ziemlich bescheuert vor, aber hier auf dem Camino gibt’s echt nichts, was die Leute nicht schon hundertmal gesehen hätten. Wahrscheinlich sogar einen bekloppten Deutschen, der mit Rucksack UND Koffer den Jakobsweg läuft.
    Mit dem Koffer durch den Ort zu laufen, war noch okay. Aber dann wechselte der Weg. Sagen wir mal so: Schotterwege, Waldwege, Wiesen und Berge – alles nicht gerade die natürliche Umgebung für Kofferrollen. Wenn ich jetzt darüber nachdenke, wie ich ausgesehen haben muss, muss ich echt lachen.
    Also: Tragen. Ich wusste nicht, wie schwer acht Kilo werden können. Spoiler: Sehr, sehr schwer!
    Lange Rede, kurzer Sinn: Ich bin jetzt in Valcarlos in einer ziemlich netten Pension angekommen – und dank der Hilfe von Alejandra, meiner bezaubernden Herbergsmutter, wird der Koffer morgen endlich abgeholt.
    Meinen allerersten Camino-Tag hatte ich mir irgendwie anders vorgestellt. Aber egal, dann ist morgen eben Tag 1b…

    Fazit des Tages: Australier haben immer recht.

    Ach so, ich bin übrigens jetzt in Spanien. ¡HOLA!
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  • Day 4

    Camino D4 Zubiri (Total 47KM)

    May 6 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A very cold and wet start.. Real feel - 1 degree, so we layered up with me wearing most layers as I was not prep'd for such cold weather. A tough day today with a steep, slippery and very difficult descent, into Zubiri. We were duly warned by the Pilgrim Office to be ccareful. Apart from a small slip/skid by yours truly we were safely down and more than a little muddy at the end. Ended the day in Bar Valentin for a great late lunch.. Ribs for lynee and Schnitzel for me with loads of salad😋. BTW we tried to visit a namesake church of St. Peter in Viscarret-Guerendiain, Navarra, one small village enroute. Seems church was closed as the grass was overgrown, shame. We will try to find another namesake church on our adventure🙏.Read more

  • Day 3

    Camino D3 Burguete

    May 5 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Huntto hotel breakfast unfortunately lived up to our expectation😢 only bread n jam n coffee. Not the best food prep for a Monster day with an ascent upto 1400 plus metres in the cold, wet/damp, as we were mostly walking in the low cloud line. Sorry very few amazing views. Total distance of 23.5km. It was a great day, tough but fun non the less. Met many pilgrims on the road..most were staying the night at the Monastery note with 118 beds in one room😬😬😬. We are very proud of ourselves as this was a real physical challenge.. We made it💪💪 no blisters or injuries.Read more

  • Day 7

    Camino Day 2

    May 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today started as a lovely walk from Orisson to Roncesvalles, 18.3km and 835m elevation over the Pyrenees and across the Spanish boarder. Although, the day quickly took a turn with 4 degree Celsius fast winds and thunder storms. I was still having a great time skipping along and listening to music but there were some very unhappy pilgrims. I even wondered off path a couple of time to take some piccies of some beautiful waterfalls and views. I ran ahead to check in but ended up spending 1.45hrs in line for check in. Having missed lunch we went on a mission for food but somehow ended up in the pub with mates for some sneaky beersRead more

  • Day 3

    Day 5 Casa Batit Viscarret

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    I left Roncesvalles this morning and walked throughout undulating beautiful spring weather. Took many photos and chatted to pilgrimages from many countries.
    Of note were Canadians, Americans and of special note were 2 Queensland ladies. In both the Ozzie and Americans, our conversations pointedly got to why the Camino. Before parting they and I took photos of the 3 of us. Today is a national holiday. Some restaurants are closed. Luckily a Spanish couple found one opening at 6 pm.Read more

  • Day 7

    Zubiri to Pamplona

    May 1 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Today was another long and arduous, although beautiful, day. They say that the first third of the Camino is a physical challenge, as your body adjusts to the mountainous terrain. The second third, through the hot and flat meseta, is said to be a mental challenge. And the final, more populated and industrial third, is said to be a spiritual challenge. So far that's right.

    Today's path was through beautiful woods with the river running alongside, the sound of the water a soothing melody. Little waterfalls and areas of rushing whitewater added to the music. We passed through charming little towns with their narrow streets and stone homes set up on the hills. Flowers are starting to bloom everywhere in yellows and purples, and farmers are busy repairing fences and tending the fields.

    A bright spot was the riverside cafe in Zuriain, almost 13 km past Zubiri and the first food of the day, since my albergue didn't offer breakfast. I had freshly squeezed orange juice, which was delicious. A hundred or more pilgrims congregated here, enjoying the music and chatting together.

    Terry, Vanessa, and I turned down the spinach tortilla to hold out for pizza cooked in the outdoor pizza oven in Iratz, just another km further. But it was May Day, a major holiday throughout the EU, and he was closed. Many businesses were closed, with families gathered in parks where the men grilled the food and women and children chatted and played in the grass. In the towns, people thronged to the bars, laughing and talking over drinks.

    Just as I thought I couldn't walk another step, Pamplona appeared in the distance. We came to the wall of the ancient fortified city and crossed over a drawbridge with its huge gears to enter. May Day celebrations were in full force in the crowded streets. I was too exhausted to explore, instead making my way straight to my hotel.

    After a long, hot shower and a little rest, I headed to the bar next door. The glass case was full of pinxtos, small plates of the most amazing food. First I had roasted artichoke hearts on a bed of mustard sauce with crisp, salty ham on top. Still hungry, I chose a skewer of shrimp and octopus with peppers and onions and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. It was a heavenly end to a long, hard day. Now for a day of rest and planning!
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  • Day 2

    Roncesvalles and ...

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Apologies for the lack of postings ...
    My setting up my Orange eSIM got mixed up and my phone stubbornly blocked.
    St Saint Jean Pied de Port, Orange dealer was not helpful.
    Now, 2 days later, if I use WiFi all is good.
    Thanks for the knee wishes. Today all good and I walked 15+Kms up 700+ mtrs to Roncesvalles. The Pyrenees is said to be the hardest part of the Camino Frances... we will see.
    Albergues: you love some, as I did in Saint Jean. Tonight I'm in the Peregrine Roncesvalles. Holds well over 200 Pilgrims. 2 different dinner times. I had agreed to enjoy dinner with 2 Scandinavian ladies, but lucked out, 7pm, mine 8:30.
    Lights out at 10pm and all lights on at 6am with Churchly voices singing.
    The accommodation is new and run by Ditch Volunteers. Very clean and efficient. Please note the above doesn't sound positive. I'm a happy Brucee and am meeting great pilgrimages 🤣
    Tomorrow a short walk and a smaller Albergue.
    Photos today show yours truly leaving my wonderful Saint Jean Pied de Port Albergue)2 night🤗) and starting the Camino Frances.
    spring time in the Pyrenees.
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  • Day 26

    Noch ein Wort zu den Bars

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Was in Norwegen die Fjorde sind, sind in Spanien die Bars. Sie lohnen alle Mühen. Und retten einen in jeder Situation. Egal ob wir verbrutzelt, pitschnass und durchgefroren oder einfach nur total platt waren. Immer tat sich irgendwo eine Bar auf. Es gibt dort excellenten Café und Tapas zu Spottpreisen. Und es gibt dort die lokale Bevölkerung. Ich würde gern verstehen, was die Spanier die ganze Zeit reden. Selbst ein Tisch mit drei Opas und dem Tresenpersonal erfüllt den ganzen Raum mit lebhaftem Gespräch. Die besten Bars gab es in den einsamen Gegenden. Manchmal kamen wir uns vor, als wären wir gerade mitten in Dreharbeiten eines Films gestolpert. Stets bekamen ruckzuck einen tipptopp Café con Leche, Bier und Tapas serviert. Wir wunderten uns, dass sich die anderen über uns nicht wundern und fuhren beschwingt von dannen. Ich finde die spanischen Bars sollten zum UNESCO Kulturerbe ernannt werden.Read more

  • Day 6

    Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    April 30 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 48 °F

    Another day of hills and valleys, although nowhere near as tough as the last two days. " Today was mostly on beautiful paths though the woods witwe ended the day in Zubiri.h fields of grazing sheep, cattle, and horses. Every few miles we'd open up into a charming little village with places for food, drinks, and restrooms. I walked with my priest friends Terry and Vanessa, which made the miles pass more quickly.

    In Biskaretta we stopped for lunch of delicious pizza. We got stamps that the bartender told us held the key to the Camino. Cynthia translated the Latin to say, "The kernel is this: we are not born for ourselves only." There certainly is a spirit of camaraderie on the Camino that is rare.

    We ended the day in Zubiri. We entered the city by crossing the Puenta del Rabia, the Rabies Bridge. It's said that any animal who crosses the bridge three times will never get Rabies. I felt daring and only crossed it once!

    After a amazing dinner of salad, and egg and rice patty in tomato sauce, zucchini soup, cod with peppers in tomato sauce, and tiramisu with plentiful red wine, I'm ready for a good night's sleep. And to do it all again tomorrow!

    Steps: 38,609
    Distance:16.29 miles
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  • Day 5

    Borda to Roncesvalles

    April 29 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    Today was long and hard but stunning. By the time the shuttle got me to Borda to begin, it was 9:30 - really late to be starting today's long trek. The first nine miles or so were straight uphill. The wind was brutal, making it impossible to stand upright. And it was blowing against us the whole way up. Just when I thought I couldn't go on, there appeared a little oasis - a food truck with a charming proprietor in a jaunty French beret. Everyone passing by stopped to rest and recharge. A little ways on a stone cross marked the turn off the roadway and up a mud and rock path. The wind got stronger the higher we climbed and it got harder to fight forward against it. A grassy hillside was a welcome rest stop, and I reached it just as two French ladies got up from showing their rears to the mountains and cursing the Pyranees!

    Finally I reached the Col de Lepoeder, which the French claim as the highest point on the Camino (the Spanish beg to differ). The views were truly magnificent and serene, seeing God's handiwork stretch out for miles in every direction.

    But then came the long walk back down out of the Pyranees. I'm not gonna lie, the downhill part almost did me in. But Ikept getting glimpses of the monastery where I'd be staying tonight, and that kept me going. I sure was exhausted when I got here!

    I met up again with Vanessa and Terry, the Episcopal priests, a nice volunteer washed and dried my filthy clothes, and I had a fun dinner with Claire and her mother from Australia, Gabby from Germany, and a bunch of rowdy Frenchmen.

    I ended the day with the Pilgrims' Mass, a beautiful service at which the priest blessed us all. I'm exhausted but ready to do it again tomorrow!

    Steps: 34,565
    Miles: 14.63
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