Spain Avilés

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  • Day 2

    Avilés to Villaviciosa

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a fairly intermittent nights sleep I felt it wasn’t worth staying in bed - despite having no need to get up early. So showered and then started to try to sort out my stuff, which is definitely not as organised as last year - yet.
    Checkout from the hotel was 12 so we went out to find coffee and I found a lovely church (StThomas a Becket) where I went to a start of Camino Sunday mass.
    After mass I met Cress in one of Avilés’ wide squares - great coffee, sunshine and church bells followed by a cup of green tea.
    Eventually we stirred our stumps, collected our (far too heavy in my case) bags and navigated back to the bus station to find a bus to Gijón.
    This took a little while as the buses don’t run as frequently on Sundays but eventually one came and it was a fairly swift ride to Gijón.
    Gijón has a fabulous at deco bus station and many other interesting and unusual buildings as well as the sea and more spacious and beautiful squares lined with cafes. This really is a much underrated area of Spain.
    Having bought onward bus tickets for Villaviciosa we walked into the centre of town for an explore. The wide sandy beaches at either end of the port area looked very inviting but we didn’t really have time to take advantage of them (and didn’t want to risk sandy feet in reasonably clean socks) so walked along by the sea and then found a bar for a drink - mineral water in my case. Cress had a beer.
    In the way back to the bus station I bought some pizza at a bakery as was starving - very delicious with loads of vegetables. Then a short bus ride to Villaviciosa. It seems a bit dead here but think the hotel is more in the central area and it is obviously Sunday. We are going out to explore soon, having completed tasks like washing and ballet practice (I’ve got an exam soon after I get back!).
    More later when I’ve been out to explore and found something to eat.
    Wandering round Villaviciosa was a delight once we found the older part. Curving streets of houses dotted with appealing bars and cafes and an 8th century Romanesque church with and exquisite ‘floating’ crucifix - the picture really doesn’t do it justice.
    Villaviciosa is at the centre of the cider making area so there is a huge cider factory and references everywhere to this important industry. Sadly cider makes me feel very unwell so haven’t tried any yet but did have a couple of glasses of a lovely Albariño.
    Dinner was at a very traditional bar - to be honest many places were closed but this was good - grilled vegetables, patatas with three sauces (version of patatas bravas) and some local blue cheese with quince jelly - eclectic combination but very good.
    Now trying to get a reasonably early night in advance of first walk tomorrow - and it’s going to be quite a long one.
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  • Day 1

    London to Aviles

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Just the start - nervous and excited.
    Flight to Asturias was on time and the views during the flight were fab. Flew over Jersey which was looking stunning and then down the coast of France. The Spanish coast was looking beautiful - landed shortly after flying over a deserted white sand beach at the tiny airport of Asturias.
    Then a bus ride to Aviles (about 40k and very reasonable fare of €4.50).
    Hotel La Serrana is fine - had a wander around Aviles looking for food. Many places serving drinks only - some pretty squares and attractive architecture. Eventually found a restaurant where I could eat something (but had to eat fish — which I’m fine with occasionally). Temperature is pleasant- cool but as it is at the moment will be good for walking.
    Stuff is in a bit of a muddle as something leaked a bit in my wash bag so everything had to be rinsed and is now all over the place. Hoping it will dry by the morning.
    No pictures yet - will try to take some tomorrow. Lying in bed watching Eurovision at the moment tho don’t think I’ll make it to the end as it’s already after 11 and nowhere near the end. Actually will as a picture now of feet watching Eurovision!
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  • Day 108

    Der Regen kommt bestimmt…

    May 12 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    ….bei strahlendem Sonnenschein habe ich meinen einsamen Übernachtungsplatz am Leuchtturm verlassen. Mein weiterer Weg führte mich entlang der Küste auf der Küstenstraße N623 und 623a die gleichzeitig auch der Jakobsweg ist, sie führt durch eine grüne schöne Landschaft mit vielen alten herrschaftlichen Häusern die aus einer besseren Zeit stammen.
    Überall sieht man auch noch die alten hochgestellten Trockenspeicher in vielen Varianten.
    Kurz vor Aviles holte mich dann der Regen doch noch ein, er war nicht zu stark aber doch lästig. Trotzdem habe ich mit fast 14000 Schritten die Stadt durchstreift , zuerst das Niemeyer Centro mit seinen futuristen Gebäuden-über Architektur lässt sich ja bekanntlich streiten wem es gefällt!
    Der Stadt selbst merkt man stark an, dass ihre Glanzzeit seit längerer Zeit vorbei ist, einige Gebäude und Straßenzügen sind gut erhalten oder restauriert aber ein großer Teil würde sich bestimmt über die Abrissbirne freuen.
    Danach bin ich noch mit einigen fehlleitungen der Navi nach Gijón gefahren“ biegen Sie rechts ab und fahren Sie dann durch den Tunnel“ 😁😤😂siehe Foto.
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  • Day 23

    Gijón to Avilés

    September 25, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    This was an interesting day. Our 15 mile walk turned into 17.3 miles. That was more than I was determined to do again, plus Moriah is still not feeling well. We crashed when we got here and then we went out to eat. After that we stopped at a podiatrist to look at my feet. No, it's not the plantar fasciitis, it's my toenails that are really ugly. I showed him my feet and told him I was on the Camino and we never even sat down. He just took us back to take care of them. They are damaged and infected and if I were not on the Camino he would remove the toenails. Instead, he took a little more conservative approach. Just before leaving, I mentioned in passing that I also had PF! 🤪 Then we went and I bought some shoes.

    Moriah finally found a Camino shell for her backpack in Gijón. In the middle ages people would return home with a shell to prove they had completed their pilgrimage (at least, that's one story.) Now, it is traditional to carry one on the walk. I bought one in Bilbao, but she waited to find a smaller one, and we haven't seen them since... until now.

    Pilgrims greet one another with "Buen Camino" (good walk/way) but it's especially nice when townspeople greet us that way. One older man went on and on in Spanish even after we told him several times we didn't speak Spanish. Then he indicated with gestures that he was praying for us. That communicated!
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  • Day 6

    Oscar Niemeyer à Avilès

    August 8, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Visite du centre culturel d’Oscar Niemeyer datant de 2011, construit sur la ria d’Avilès Le centre est composé d’un auditorium/salle de théâtre, d’une salle de cinéma, de salles d’expositions et de conférences. Pareil que pour le Guggenheim le centre est très beau en vue d’ensemble mais mal fini également ce qui gâche un peu l’expérience de la visite. Par exemple le béton de la coupole semble très réussi mais c’est en fait une toile tendu et collée qui recouvre le béton structurel, c’est dommage.Read more

  • Day 18

    Aviles to Muros de Nalon, Spain

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Today started out like an Easter egg hunt again, finding the arrows and shells leading us out of town. We came across a beautiful church where mass was about to begin. We stepped in, said a quick prayer, and got back to finding those arrows. After about a half an hour of working our way out of town, I looked at my app and realized that it wasn’t on the ‘blue line’ we normally follow, but we kept following the yellow arrows and ended up bypassing a couple towns and shaving off 1.4km. Finally migrating off the blue line worked in our favor! We had a little rain about an hour into our walk, but it was cool so wearing the Packa (a zip up poncho) wasn’t like cooking inside a sauna. Amen. I found myself getting very negative and anxious when I had to pull that sauna thing out. You know by now, I can’t stand walking in the rain. I couldn’t tell if it was going to keep going all day or if it was just a gentle reminder that it’s part of this lovely adventure. As I walked along dirt tracks I asked myself why I got so much anxiety over the rain. I think most would prefer not to walk 15 miles in it, but it felt different. Like more than how others might react. Then it hit me. Montana. 21 day survival trip my parents sent me on when I was 15. It rained 7 of the 21 days. I still remember exactly how many days it rained. How there was no washer/dryer (of course), how everything stayed wet and damp most of the trip, ill fitting boots, one change of clothes, and how I was sent there and had no way out of it. There it was. My resentment, fear, frustration, and just plain anger over that. I was put in the middle of Montana for sneaking out my bedroom window and smoking cigarettes. I wasn’t told about this plan until the day my parents drove me over to Spokane and dropped me off. I was with about 7 others who were a couple years older than me hooked on cocaine, smoking pot, ripping off their employers, and running with gangs. They were rich kids from New York, LA, and one from Florida. I didn’t feel my crime fit the punishment. I was stuck with these ‘bad kids’ and it was an absolute nightmare. I cried as I recanted that memory. Why did my mom go along with my dads militant idea he read about in the Spokesman Review newspaper? Why not just parent me? Why ship me off? Wasn’t the last time I was shipped off either. Why didn’t my step sister have to go? My step brother? They did the same stuff and worse. Because their mother wouldn’t have allowed it. I felt unprotected then and it surfaced today. In the rain, and again, I felt like I had no way out and no one had my back. Didn’t expect to be processing this today. But, I guess it was time! Gotta love the Camino and how it pulls out those little bits of my childhood that were highly disturbing, unforgettable, and so fricking unfair. Not feeling like a victim. Please don’t think that, victim mentality has never been my thing. Just working it out so it doesn’t stay inside and fester anymore. I have choices now. I have a say-so in my life. If I want to walk through the rain, I can. If I want to hail a cab, I can. Today I hung with it because I chose to. And it was just fine. Before long the Packa was being put away in the backpack and I was strolling through beautiful forests in the cooler weather. Felt really cleansed and blessed.
    Holly and I walked within sight, but with space, with no talking, and it was so peaceful. This is whėt I needed. She probably did to. We aren’t here to drink all the wine in Spain or be a tourist. The remainder of the day I didn’t force anything to surface, I just surrendered to what the Camino wanted to show me, and maybe that was plenty for the day.
    My legs felt good, my feet kept stepping and I completely enjoyed the rest of my day of walking. It felt like a short day being only 14 miles. Never thought I’d say that haha!! So much better that those 20 mile days. We had time to get clothes washed and hang them on the line to dry. Dinner is at SEVEN! Not 8!!Yay!! The albergue we are staying at is really nice and clean. The lady runs a tight ship, but she’s super friendly. There is a big lawn with a teepee, horreo (converted to sleeping quarters) and lots of tables and chairs to relax in. Nothing in this town to explore, so it’s a perfect oasis to just be and truly rest our bodies. The next few days are easy breezy. Only 10-12 miles. But, we still have a couple big ones left on the itinerary. We are inching our way closer to Santiago! It doesn’t seem so far away now, but still a couple of weeks. My phone is about dead, need to charge, it’s the device getting us from point A to point B every day, so it gets a good workout!! Time for both the phone and I to recharge. Love you all, peace be with you, and for myself, remembering that every single storm runs out of rain.
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  • Day 2

    Hallo, ist da irgendjemand?

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Nach dem wunderschönen Abschnitt mitten in der Natur, lief ich allmählich in Aviles ein. Das zweite große Industriegebiet war vor mir. Dieser Ausblick mit kilometerlangen Marsch auf der Landstraße war dann doch etwas demotivierend. Also machte ich mir Musik ins Ohr. Dann hieß es durchhalten. Es war bereits mittags und ich zweifelte allmählich, ob ich auf dem Jakobsweg war. Ich hatte noch nicht einen Pilgerer gesehen. 2019 hatte es keine Stunde gedauert.

    Kurz vor Aviles begegnete ich schließlich doch einem Pilgerer, welcher hinter mir auftauchte. Wir begrüßten uns nur kurz mit einem „Buon Camino“ und kämpften uns getrennt weiter die schier endlose Straße entlang.
    Die ersten Wohnhäuser tauchten auf. Mein voreiliges Fazit: „So eine hässliche Stadt“.

    Mit dem Einlauf ins Stadtzentrum musste ich meinen voreiligen Entschluss revidieren. Eine wunderschöne Altstadt erwartete mich. Ich ging ins Touristenbüro, holte meinen Stempel, schlenderte ein wenig durch die Stadt und setzte mich in ein Café, direkt auf dem Marktplatz. Die Sonne schien und der frisch gebrühte Café con Lećhe schmeckte hervorragend.

    Kurzzeitig überlegte ich in Aviles zu bleiben und mein gebuchtes Hotel zu stornieren, aber dann entschloß ich mich doch noch 7km weiter zu laufen. Diese Strecke war wunderschön und es machte trotz, dass ich schon 25km gelaufen bin, einfach Spaß. Nach 32km und 39.000 Schritt kam ich in Piadres Blancas in einem wunderschönen Hotel an.
    Auf der ganzen Strecke ist mir heute nur ein Pilger begegnet.

    Im Hotel ging ich unter Schmerzen in die Badewanne und gönnte mir danach auf der vorgelagerten Terrasse noch etwas zutrinken.
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  • Day 19

    Avilés

    April 9 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Feeling good today 🌞
    Finally a good night of sleep.
    Finally a guest house that I can leave whenever I want without taking the (sorry) useless breakfast consisting of baguette, jam, cookies and cereals (but no milk...wtf?!). These things make me feel starved again after a few steps of walking.
    Instead, today I slept until 8 and directly got on the road. It is so good to have the prospect of a fat Pintxo de Tortilla, a strong coffee and today my beloved "Palmera" (resembles the German Schweinsohr 😁) as motivation to kill the first 10K in the morning.
    The camino to Avilés was quite desolate, leading through industrial zones and along a busy street. Later it became way more appealing and I again saw really well-built cycle paths (@Mom&Dad).
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  • Day 17

    Gijon -> Avilés

    March 29 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Nach dem schönen Tag in Gijon musste es heute wohl Kontrastprogramm geben. Die Strecke war nicht nur sehr lang - 28km, sondern einfach schrecklich. Die ersten 2 Stunden ging es durch die hässlichen Vororte und dann übergangslos ins Industriegebiet.

    Zwischendurch mal ein bisschen Auenland, bevor ich quasi in Mordor angekommen bin. Gut das verstehen jetzt nur die „ Herr der Ringe“-Leser. Aber bevor ich dann ins beschauliche Avilés komme, wieder nur Kilometer lang entlang der riesigen Schwerindustrie.

    Das Highlight war eine Sonnenbrille, die ich auf dem Weg gefunden habe und hoffte sie in der Herberge seinem Besitzer zurück geben zu können. Nun ist sie in mein Eigentum eingezogen.

    Deshalb bleibt es wohl sehr überschaubar mit Bildern heute.

    Dafür konnte aber die feudale Herberge mit einer Öffnungszeit von 16 - 20 Uhr überraschen. Also bei Ankunft um 15:00 macht das eine Wartezeit von 1 Stunde oder umgerechnet 3 Bier
    Und nach 20:00 nicht mehr reinkommen bedeutet einkaufen im Supermarkt und selbst kochen.

    Der Schlafsaal umfasst 58 Betten in einem Raum. Heute mit 5 Personen belegt. Aber wie viele hier im Sommer schon erstickt sind weiß wohl keiner.
    Ach übrigens, was mir auch neu war - es gibt Stockbetten als Doppelbett. Also oben zwei und unten zwei … 🫣
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  • Day 22

    Aviles

    August 31, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Le Chemin semble vouloir arriver dans Avilès comme il a quitté Gijón, à travers les zones industrielles, mais un tracé aménagé le long de la rivière le rend acceptable. Avilès est une jolie ville active et gaie.Read more

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