Cheney Reservoir

Mon 10, Tue 11, Wed 12 Feb
After seeing our last iceberg on the evening of 9 Feb we began the 2 day re-crossing of Drake Passage. This time the ship moved a little more. Wind was around 30-45 knots from the SW, so coming from our (favourable) port quarter. The swell was about 4m. With the stabilisers in full operation Oosterdam was fairly stable, although we could feel some movement. Enough to make you think about balance while walking. Never enough to ever look like capsizing a wineglass, nor spill a drop.
Prior to our next 2 destinations, Ushuaia and Punta Arenas, there are briefings, “Your day in …..”, by Ed the cruise entertainment director. He is originally from Costa Rica and gives us an excellent outline of what to expect in these 2 southern cities.
After a couple of typically comfortable (luxurious?) cruising days across the Passage we need to pick up our Chilean pilot. Then we proceed to Cape Horn. Contrary to our former ignorance, Cape Horn is on a small island, Isla Hornos. Yes, it is the most southern tip of the South American continent. Spectacular scenery. The ship comes quite close and we do the usual “doughnut” turns (as Captain Kevin describes them).
Then after crossing what looks like open sea we start to thread our way into the Beagle Channel. Part of the Chile/Argentina border is down the middle of this waterway. We reach Ushuaia next morning. It has strong claims to be the world’s most southern city with a population of a little over 82,000. Not quite as big as Launceston. Ushuaia is in Tierra del Fuego which Tony had never realised is an island. About the size of Ireland (or Tasmania). The southern part of South America is not solid land. There are lots of islands with big navigable channels between them. Such as the Straits of Magellan.
We moor alongside in Ushuaia so it is easy to disembark then walk to our catamaran for the cruise on the Beagle Channel. This is another of the shore excursions we booked in early January.
We spent a very pleasant 2 hours on the cruise, seated near a group of Canadians. We had an extremely close look at colonies of imperial cormorants and (the best) several groups of sea lions. Previously, we had thought penguins smelt badly, but this was worse. Downwind is not the place to be.
We found a very nice café for our morning coffee with Rob and Trevor. Then we had time to walk around this town. There is a narrow flat strip near the water and everything else is on the side of a hill. Interesting housing. Found some penguin-based souvenirs to take home.
This evening we are going for a cruise through Glacier Alley.Read more