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  • Day924

    Étang d'Incheville Aire

    January 6 in France ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We've treated ourselves to a paying aire. €9.50 gives us 24 hours of electric hookup, fresh water, and all waste disposal facilities including glass and packaging recycling. Through our windscreen we can see Incheville Lake stretching up its small valley. It is wonderfully quiet, no main roads run nearby and grass surrounds the tarmacced parking area that we have all to ourselves.

    Before the light fades we set out on the 3km track around the lake. It is a dull day, with no direct sunshine penetrating the thick cloud layer to highlight winter's colour; the valley's woodlands, fields and few houses appearing as if in sepia. There are many wooden fishing pontoons projecting out from the grassy bank. They appear to be on long term loans to individuals, like allotments. Most have fencing or hedges and a gate shielding them from passers by and many have sheds. We encounter lots of dogs and their walkers enjoying a Sunday stroll and exchange friendly 'bonjour's. We are beginning to be able to enjoy seeing other dogs and be happy for the many wonderful walks we shared with Poppy.

    An unusual feature of Étang d'Incheville is the flocks of fake waterfowl floating on its surface. We've never seen them before, but there must be hundreds on this lake, fanning out in groups of about 30 from anchored buoys. With Geese, Eiders and Mallards, they look very realistic but we can't find any information boards that shed light on why they are there. Is it to encourage migrating birds to land and nest?

    Incheville was a nice spot but there were no shops within walking distance and we were running low on food, so we set off south, hoping to stock up at a supermarket on the way.
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  • Day929

    St Georges-sur-Cher

    January 11 in France ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    The electric heater is humming away happily and our living area is snug and warm. The medium sized, compacted yellow gravel aire at St Georges-sur-Cher provides free electricity, so the leisure batteries are getting a good charge, together with the rest of our electricals. We look out onto an open area of grey gravel and grass where cars park during the day. To our right, the main road is backed by a plantation of skinny poplars and far enough away not to bother us. Close by is the boulangerie, its red sign for 'pain' lighting up at night. An archway, whose christmas decorations are still illuminated, gives access to shop frontages in a small square with a limestone brick church. A fleuriste, boucherie / charcuterie and little supermarket; nothing remarkable, but it feels open and welcoming. One thing we especially love is the token system for the service point. An information board advises that 'jetons' for fresh water are available for free in the shops. It is a great way to foster a good relationship between business owners and the town's temporary residents.

    The day we arrived we had set off promptly in order to try and get Will a fishing licence. The system seems very complicated, with no national permit, but ones obtained from fishing clubs. Regional lines restrict the reach of permits from all clubs, but many have agreements with other regions, allowing licence holders to fish their waters. Will found a club that had agreements with every region but the next hurdle was the online application form. This was so tortuous that following many failed attempts he decided to visit somewhere he could buy it in person, thus the prompt start to the day. The skies were grey and showering Martha with rain. Perfect for travelling, as we didn't feel we were missing out on anything! On the way we saw several gilets jaunes encampments at roundabouts but they caused no trouble.

    The sat nav first took us to a residential street in Tours, which after 15 minutes of searching on foot, we concluded was not concealing anywhere that might sell fishing licenses. Following directions from Google Maps, we drove 4 kilometres accross town, parked and walked half a kilometre to find a somewhere that could feasibly, in the past have sold permits, but was now, most definitely, offices for a graphic design company- grrr! Back on the road and after parking up at St Georges, much persistence and €96, Will finally managed to purchase a fishing permit that would allow him to pursue his pastime throughout France for the coming year. All we've got to do now is find somewhere to print it out! It wouldn't have been worth the time, cost and effort if we were here for a matter of weeks, but we'll potentially be spending a lot of time in the country over the coming months, waiting for and travelling back to medical appointments in the UK.

    We decided to stay longer than usual St Georges-sur-Cher, mainly because of the electric hookup. Will had found a restaurant with good reviews but sadly Vicky's energy levels were very low, so we didn't make it. She stayed in the van while Will explored the town and made use of his new fishing permit and the fishing trousers, stool and bait catapault he got for xmas. On Sunday morning the car park filled up and people made their way through the arch with round, woven grass baskets and bags - it was a Sunday market!

    We joined the flow of people and saw a dozen or so stalls selling oysters and other seafood, veg and plants, roasting chickens, Chinese street food and honey. Vicky didn't make it round but was able to sit on a bench and watch the comings and goings while Will queued at the busy stands and picked up some produce we liked the look of, including a white petalled kalanchoe from the florists to cheer her up. There were a few people going into the little church and as we passed the open door we saw them huddled around a large candle at the end of the aisle, crystal chandeliers shedding their soft golden glow on the chestnut coloured wooden pews, while daylight shone in through the stained glass window, picking out its indigos and blues.

    Knowing the boulanger would be closed the following day we went in to pick up a loaf and decided to get one of the delcious looking (if a little expensive) puff pastry tarts that had filled shelves in several towns we'd visited. When cutting it open we found a ceramic tile inside. Puzzled and curious, Will took it back to the baker to ask what it was. The baker explained it was a traditional 'fève' (a bean). The tile had a moral inscribed on it which translated as "doing well is better than saying well"; actions speak louder than words. With a little research we discovered the tart was a Galette de Roi (King's Cake), eaten from epiphany / the 12th night onwards. The person who finds the fève becomes king or queen for the day, with special privilages. Will even got to wear a paper crown supplied with the galette. We love discovering new things and learning while travelling!

    Out of a maximum allowed stay of 7 nights, at Saint Georges-sur-Cher we stopped a total of 4. We'd begun getting itchy feet after 2 but it was good to just spend time relaxing and 'Being' in a place, instead of just passing through (especially as it came with free electricity!)
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  • Day921

    Wissant, France

    January 3 in France ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    We've made it to France and have found a spot in the popular free aire at Wissant, 30km south of Calais. The crossing was fine, the ferry's Christmas deccies still in place, having not yet reached 12th night. Rainy downpours greeted us as Martha's wheels touched down on French tarmac but our hearts lifted a little as we left the razor wire and dour high rises of Calais behind to wind our way through rolling green fields toward the distant blue cleft where the Channel met a changeable sky.

    The van parking at Wissant is surrounded by a thick screen of small trees, their bare winter branches providing a good network of perches for robins and little brown birds. It is quiet, save for a little road noise and occasional squawks and screeches of waterfowl somewhere in the distance. It doesn't have fresh water but it does have bins, glass recycling, grey and black water emptying facilities. A slightly muddy footpath leads between the gardens of nearby houses and small streets provide passage into town.

    We arrived mid afternoon on Thursday but didn't leave the van until late Friday morning. The cloud of Poppy's absence still hangs over us, dampening the excitement we would usually feel embarking on a brand new tour. It always takes some adjusting from staying with friends and family to being by ourselves, but being without Poppy is making it all the more difficult. Our moods swing, as one moment we feel like doing something radical (for us), such as leaving the van and taking a flight somewhere and the next moment we have a strong urge to shut the world out and do absolutely nothing. We know time heals and are just trying to focus on the good memories we have.

    A cockrel's crows heralded Friday's eventual dawn. France is an hour ahead of the UK so it isn't light until after 8:30am. Vicky blogged while Will used the leftover cream from Christmas Day to make butter (as you do!?), then we slowly meandered through the streets toward the beach. Will needs to be careful not to overdo things since his operation, but we made it to the soft yellow sands and gentle rolling waves of the English Channel. High dunes topped with tufts of maram grass divided coast from countryside as people milled around, taking in the sights. Walking back through the quaint town of Wissant, with its cream or white facades, terracotta rooves and splashes of colour on the woodwork, we passed signs for a summer oyster and champagne bar, as well as plenty of seafront restaurants. We can imagine the place would be heaving in high season. After picking up a few necessities at a small Spar we saw a sign advertising direct sales from 'the boat'. A small shop, open to the outdoors on one side, had an iced counter with a selection of fish and seafood on offer. We treated ourselves to half a dozen oysters and a cooked crab that we enjoyed for lunch back at the van with bread and salad - MmmMmm!

    We found ourselves needing to run the engine for a while in the afternoon because the leisure batteries were getting so low. We really could have done with that solar panel! With Will's post op appointment in mid February, we've decided to stay in France for the next 6 weeks instead of venturing further afield. What we hadn't decided on was where in this very large country we were going to go. Well, we still haven't exactly decided but on the final evening at Wissant we booked a ferry from Santander to Portsmouth, a few days before the appointment. We've only ever brought Martha Motorhome over the channel because all other routes would have required Poppy to go into onboard kennels. This 27 hour crossing from Spain us a little more costly than we are used to (£420) but it allows us to meander south at our own pace and enjoy the winter sun when we are there instead of worrying about when to start making our way north again.
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  • Day928

    Châteaudun, Centre-Val de Loire

    January 10 in France ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We are sitting in the shadow of the impressive Château de Châteaudun (well, we would be if there were any sunshine). Its grey brick walls rise to a neck-craning height, just over the road from the parking de camping cars. It's lower sections are built into the rock and covered in green lichen. They have but a few small inlets guarded by rusting iron bars; the dungeons perhaps? Upper storeys are mostly free from growth and punctuated by tall rectangular windows, some framed in archways and decorated with demure carvings. Impressive as it is, it looks in need of a little TLC. Over the other side of our car park the brown River Loire runs through an artificial basin. A canoe clubhouse perches on the bank and slalom poles hang in place, ready for when the weather warms.

    Like its castle, Châteaudun appears slightly run down; plaster flaking from the sides of buildings. On the way in we passed several houses, originally built into the cliff but now dilapidated beyond habitation. We also drove by the entrance to the Grottes du Foulon; a cave system renowned for its geodes (hollow rocks containing crystalline formations). In the case of the Foulon caves, they contain quartz and chalcedony; a microcrystal such as onyx. If we'd have been staying longer we would have visited. We'll have to put it on the 'return to' list!

    With Vicky feeling weak, Will set off to explore Châteaudun on his own. It is split into a lower and an upper town. Both are inhabited but the lower is the more modern and busy, with garages and noisy traffic driving through its streets. The upper is more touristy, its main square offering charcuteries and chocolatiers, its old quarter a pocket of history, with characterful, timber framed buildings and high sided stone walls. Cars are absent from the cobbled lanes and a well signed 'circuit touristique' leads you past the domineering historical buildings of the château, a hotel, the old town hall and more. Being the kind hearted bloke he is, Will decided to pay a little back to Châteaudun by having a beer at its old town café - well done Will! 😂 Before leaving, Vicky managed to make it up the steep stone steps and take in some of the sights. The streets were quiet in the feeble light of early morning and a delicate drizzle added to the olde worlde atmosphere.
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  • Day923

    Campagne-lés-Hesdin Lav'car + laverie

    January 5 in France ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Our hands are red and stinging with cold but Martha Motorhome is shiny white again! The aire at Campagne-lés-Hesdin is part of a 'Lav'car'. It has a special high, van washing hose and even a platform you can climb to reach your roof! Our mud and salt splattered home was well overdue a good scrub so we donned unflattering waterproof trousers, braved the chill and got on with it. How the locals manage to look so well dressed while they do this is beyond us!

    We chose the coastal route to get here, the journey taking us through soft dunes and towns comprising of holiday developments and run down local housing, before turning eastwards to bypass the built up suburbia of Boulogne. We passed numerous friteries along the way and at midday our resolve finally crumbled when we saw a group of people queuing outside a catering trailer. Two large and delicious portions later, we were on the road again and pulling up at the aire before too long. Vicky made use of the on site laverie to do a couple of loads of clothes washing and we treated the batteries to 6 hours of electric hookup for €3, plugging in our phones, laptops, power packs electric heater and anything else electronic we could find to take advantage of the mains supply!

    It wasn't a peaceful place to stay, with drivers washing their vehicles well into the night. If we had been holidaying we would almost certainly have moved on, but we are full timing and the services were more important than a bit of peace and quiet or scenery for one night. We liked the van wash so much that the following morning Vicky got up onto the roof to scrub the hard to reach areas before we gave the whole van another going over with the pressure washers, focussing on the areas we'd missed. It was a useful exercise as she found a puncture in the roof, probably caused by a tree branch, that she was able to cover with a blob of silicone. We've simply not found these facilities in the UK so we hope you'll forgive us for getting a little over excited at this one!
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  • Day927

    Nonancourt aire

    January 9 in France ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Nonancourt feels very familiar to both of us but we've never stayed in its free aire before. It offers 6 places near the Town Hall, looking out onto the tall trees and lawns that make up its grounds. We are alone here to start with and it is quiet, the only cars that pass, crawl slowly to the small Town Hall car park. Sadly the fresh water tap and electric points are turned off but we can survive without them.

    Snatches of sunshine light an otherwise overcast day so when the clouds part at around 1:30pm we go exploring. Unfortunately the lunch time closing catches us out and most shops are shut but we enjoy gazing up at Nonancourt's higgldy piggldy houses, leaning this way and that. Timber frames of brown and black preside and lead down to the central square, where a cheese seller is just packing up their van. It looks as if there might have been a market on in the morning. We cross the two channels of the little River Avre that runs an artificially straight course through the lower end of town. High sided houses rise out of the water and many have private bridges, a little larger than gangplanks, that lead from their back doors, over the Avre to the street.

    Nonancourt is obviously on a popular route because back at Martha Motorhome, as the daylight faded, we were joined by 3 other vans, all with GB plates. Now, it is customary for those in motorhomes to give each other a friendly wave when passing on the road and to at least acknowledge each other with a nod when pulling up in an aire. Our neighbour, who resembled Mr Smithers from The Simpsons, studiously avoided all eye contact, then proceeded to fill his bucket at the river and use a long handled brush and mop to give the outside of his van a full wash, in direct defiance of the signs forbidding it. At least one other left their waste pipe open to dribble grey water over the tarmac. No, it wasn't the end of the world, but it was disrespectful and made us ashamed to be associated with them by way of our nationality.

    After a frosty night Vicky got up, did Pilates then went to fetch freshly baked croissants and a baguette from the boulanger on Grande Rue, whose information board promised they would be open at 6:45am. At 8:15am there was no signs of life but fortunately the lights of the artisan boulanger next to the grey stone Église Saint-Martin were spilling out onto the main square and had croissants aplenty that we enjoyed for breakfast.

    Before finally departing Nonancourt, we returned once again to the cobbled alleys and timber framed buildings to pick up a few groceries, then a couple of hyacinths from the florist's to brighten up the van.
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  • Day935

    Moulins, River Allier

    January 17 in France ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    We've passed into the Auvergne Region and settled ourselves for a few days under big old Plane trees, overlooking the wide River Allier
    at Moulins' aire. Winds have blown brittle brown leaves and heaped them into piles against the chainmail fence enclosing our grassy site. We've chosen a spot where we can see the arched, red sandstone Pont Régemortes crossing the water a little way downstream and giving vehicles access to the town, with its two, double spired churches.

    We set off this morning with the aim of getting a good number of kilometres under our belts but several things got in the way. We spotted a Netto, so stopped for supplies. Not much further on we saw signs for a Decathlon that would undoubtedly sell the fishing gear Will wanted for his birthday, in a few day's time. Will had fun choosing, but Vicky started to feel unwell and by the time he returned to the van she wasn't up to travelling far. A quick search of Park4Night came up with the Moulins aire, just 5 miles away. It had all the facilities and whilst not free, it was very affordable at just 10 cents an hour, costing only €4.50 for our two nights.

    Once Will worked out how to enter our details into the ticket machine, the barrier rose and we were in. It was a lovely quiet spot with plenty of space. There was a definate chill in the air so we took advantage of the electric hookup costing €2 for 4 hours and got the fan heater working away. When the sun came out, Will wrapped up and took his fishing gear down to the river bank. He managed to make it back in before the hailstones!

    The following day he made a couple of trips into Moulins' commercial centre. On the way he passed an art installation of cows painted by different artists and found a great shop selling organic foods, so filled our fridge with goodies for his upcoming birthday celebrations.

    The night was properly cold at -3°C, but the frosted sights we woke to were gorgeous, with ice crystals forming on tree branches and fronds of grass. Inevitably our waste water tank had frozen shut so we weren't able to empty, but the Flot Bleu service stands provided by the aire were heated and insulated, meaning we could still fill up with fresh water for a couple of euros.
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  • Day925

    Poses, La Seine

    January 7 in France ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We've crossed into Normandy and have found a spot aside the Seine. It's a wet and potholed layby off a dead end side track but there is a lovely view out of our front and side windows. The river is wide, but it is only when we look at the map that we realise the opposite bank is actually that of an island; one of several in this large meander loop. Further channels flow around the tree topped isles and occasionally huge transport barges can be seen ploughing their way upstream before disappearing behind the landmasses. Accross the water, rural hills rise up and a couple of outcrops of bare chalk stand prominently, one of which has been carved out to house a gun emplacement, presumably last used in the world wars.

    Before leaving our lakeside aire this morning we bit the bullet and sorted out the van insurance, which was up for renewal at the end of the month. Since Will turned 50 (nearly 15 years ago now) we have been using SAGA. Unlike most policies, theirs allowed us to spend as much time as we liked in Europe, but the premium rose to nearly £1000 last year after Vicky scraped a parked car and this year's quote was more than half again at £1529 because the company had not yet resolved the case of someone driving into the back of us in July in Denmark, despite 20 years protected no claims bonus. It was a big price hike so after ascertaining that they couldn't reduce it, we looked into other insurers. Adrian Flux would insure us for under £800 but restricted our roamings to 270 days a year, however, Comfort has a specialist full timers policy for £1300 whose only restriction was that you couldn't spend more than 6 months in any one foreign country each year. The thing that swung it for us was the unlimited mileage. Saga's quote restricted us to 16,000 miles and we'd always made travel plans with this in mind. So, Comfort has taken a big chunk of money from our credit card this month, but lifted a big weight from our minds.

    Insurance done and dusted, we set off this morning towards an Intermarché Will had found on the sat nav and were disappointed to find it closed. Several other supermarkets we passed were also shut but after a hunch and a small detour, Will found an open Super U. Vicky was feeling weak so let him go in by himself. After a long wait she began to think she'd made a mistake; we haven't done a 'big shop' for months and Will does tend to get a bit carried away. She wasn't reassured when he came out with a trolley full of purchases and a faux innocent look on his face!

    Once we'd squeezed the trolley load into our little cupboards and tucked into the french stick for lunch, we set off once again through the region's wide open fields and outcrops of barren winter trees. Passing by Rouen we managed to spot the island we'd stayed on and canoed round several years ago when we visited France in our old motorhome with Poppy and our ancient chocolate lab, Bronwyn. Today we were looking for somewhere out of the way, so followed the Seine to Poses.

    Upon arriving, Vicky was unsure about staying so close to the campsite that our road runs adjacent to, but it was closed for winter so we stopped for 2 peaceful nights, having agreed to slow down our travels. Giving ourselves more time at each place is good for getting things done and Will was feeling very productive. He fixed his broken clothes drawer, sewed up the hole in his trousers and attached the tape lights Vicky had got for Christmas, to the van's electrics via a switch he'd bought at Super U. Vicky carefully positioned them above the rotating driver and passenger seats and peeled back the cover from the self adhesive tape, sticking them into place. She'd chosen a warm white light and we were both surprised at how bright they are. We'd previously strung battery operated fairy lights around the cab but they didn't output much light into this previously dull area of the van. We are really pleased with the tape lights, we just hope the glue holds!

    It wasn't all work, when we saw the sun peaking out we set off downriver and managed to make it to a huge wier that had a footbridge, where you could stand and look down on the rushing water. Temperatires are still in single figures but it was good to get out, especially as Will is continuing to improve after his hospital visits. The route took us through woodland corridors and past a range of old and expensive looking detached houses set within their own grounds. Many had private terraces over the water and one even had a swimming pool in the back garden. Away from the homes were guest moorings for large boats, and a few permanent ones that looked like livaboards.

    On the last morning Vicky went for a walk through the village's quiet streets and emerged between two lakes just in time to catch the sun rising over Lac du Mesnil. All in all Poses was a good place to wild camp for a couple of nights.
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  • Day933

    Sancions, Canal du Berry

    January 15 in France ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We are parked up in Sancions' scenic aire, sandwiched between the Aubois river, which is narrow, grotty and thankfully out of sight, and the Canal du Berry, which is only a couple of metres outside the van door and a lot cleaner and prettier to look at. The sun is setting, casting its golden rays off the water surface and producing colourful reflections of the little grey stone bridge, steely sky and a small collection of buildings, their wooden shutters closed to the sight.

    After filling and emptying tanks and bins this morning we covered about 160 kilometres, taking us to the south eastern edge of the Centre-Val de Loire region. On the way we managed to buy LPG, diesel and even use the petrol station's laverie (launderette) for €4 when we stopped for lunch. We weren't sure whether to be reassured or worried at the availability of anti-mite detergent for 50c a dose, but the place seemed immaculately clean.

    We avoided the motorways and passed through many little French towns, interspersed by large tracts of agricultural land. We felt so welcome due to the number of van parking and service signs we saw along the way. There were yet more groups of gilets jaunes dotted here and there. The day had begun with an insipid light filtering through the usual covering of white cloud, but gradually this intensified until the sun was strong, the green fields vibrant and the sky steely blue. It was in these conditions we spotted a large group of birds in a ploughed field, that turned out to be Common Cranes; huge creatures with long legs and long necks, whose wingspans are 2m on average! Sorry we didn't get a photo, we were a bit too gobsmacked to see them standing there!

    Arriving at Sancions, Will made the most of the late afternoon sun by wrapping up and having a fish in the canal. There was only one other van when we pulled in, but one more drove in after us and started up its generator, keeping it running until nearly 10pm. We hope the noise didn't travel to any of the town's residents.

    Night time temperatures plummeted and we woke to a layer of frost. Thankfully we had plenty of LPG and Martha was nice and toasty inside! Taking the short walk into town at midday, it became apparent that we'd missed the morning market, quite a big one by the looks of it. Never mind, we were on the lookout for somewhere to eat out. We skirted the main square and delved a little way into side streets, reading menus displayed on the walls of cafés, hotels and bistros. Despite the attractive looking exteriors, the soft stone walls often clad in vines with painted shutters covering upper storey windows, nothing quite seemed right until we came to the unassuming Petite Auberge. We wouldn't have recognised it as an eatery if not for the chalkboard outside, advertising set meals.

    Vicky has been thinking a lot about her food consumption in terms of the environment and animal welfare and has decided to adopt a mostly pescitarian diet when buying food herself. She will continue to eat organic meat on special occasions such as birthdays, have 'sustainable' fish occasionally and generally cut down even further on animal products. This makes things more difficult when eating out and she'll not get to sample many of a country's signature dishes, but we'll see how it goes.

    We asked the waitress at La Petite Auberge whether they had a vegetarian meal and accepted the offer of 'une grande salade'. Will had the set menu of terrine, followed by chicken and mash with a flavourfull sauce, accompanied of course by a basket of french bread. We both enjoyed a slice of chocolate cake before Will finished with an espresso and Vicky with a glass of Ricard; a pastis she had read was popular in France. We shared the dining room with 2 other couples and a group of 3 and soaked in the relaxed atmosphere and french conversation.

    Afterwards, we felt the need to walk off our indulgences. The sun was out as we strolled along the grassy canal towpath, the tall Plane trees casting long shadows accross the water. After a while Vicky spotted a strange little bird flitting up and down the length of the canal, dipping occasionally to touch the surface. We soon realised it was a bat, out in bright daylight! Further along we saw a buzzard picking at something up ahead in the long grass. We got to within 50 metres before the wary bird of prey flew off, leaving what turned out to be a long deceased badger. We were on the periphery of town, so it was a real pleasure to see so much wildlife!
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  • Day2

    Paris Airport

    November 28, 2018 in France ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I could spend a lot of time in the Paris airport! There’s so much to do! Video games, Chanel, Gucci, Burberry, etc. It feels really spacious in here as well. The bathrooms were comforting as well! 🙌🏾😂 I had a struggle setting up my universal plug converter.. finally got it figured out with a lady who works in one of the electronic stores here. It’s 9:32 am here and I’m wide awake. My body has no idea what it’s in for. One more 8 hr flight and then I’ll be in Nairobi!!Read more

You might also know this place by the following names:

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