Almanya
Almanya

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    • Gün 28

      Lübeck

      16 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

      We had breakfast at the hotel at around 8:45am. The original idea was to save time, but it was also very good. Perhaps the best yet, apart from not quite having the personal touch of the people in Bamberg, and having a table of noisy, probably Chinese women. It was a large room, but ignoring them was easier said than done.

      having seen some of the centre of town yesterday, we walked anti-clockwise around the town, starting in the greenery along the river, then we criss-crossed the town just being impressed by all the buildings we found. One large church – St Giles in English – was not touched in WW2, so it still looked as it had in the early 1800s, and largely as it was in the 1600s, and parts might have been similar to the 1400s or even when it was built in brick in the 1200s. At some time in the distant past the inside was whitewashed, and in patches the old wall paintings are visible, but they have left that for future generations. It was one of the lesser churches - but this was in Luebeck, a city powerful enough for its army to defeat the armies of Denmark in a battle in around 1227.

      Then the Cathedral, which was bright and huge. It was started at the same time as Notre Dame in Paris, and is still an engineering challenge. The 115m high towers are not straight. The right tower leans to the right (2m!) and the left to the left (1.8m), and both a bit forward (2m). When one looks at the other towers in the photos, none of them are straight, and it is not an optical illusion. There is no stone in the ground here, so the foundations must sit on clay. It also means they build with bricks and mortar, and the mortar weakens and cracks over time (as do some bricks). There were engineering displays in the Cathedral showing the age of the different area of brick, as well as the angles and cracks. They were almost as grand as the old altars and the 500 yo tombstones underfoot, and the bells at midday. Curiously, the cathedral's towers are not the city's highest, even though it was always the most important building for the pious. One of the other churches has a tower that is slightly higher after some age-old local political power struggle.

      Lunch in a park by the river, then we walked around the other side of the town, saw Germany’s oldest station of the cross (12th C), and at 5:45 we met Wiebke.
      Anne’s (and my) niece, Fiona, has a German partner, Philipp, who grew up in the middle of Germany. On the train yesterday Anne messaged Fiona and mentioned we were heading to Luebeck, as decided 12 hours earlier. It turns out that Philipp’s younger sister, Wiebke, lives in Lubeck, but is going away tomorrow. Many messages later, the arrangements worked and we met in a café at 5:45. It is a small world, as they say. Wiebke is lovely. She speaks wonderful English, having lived in NZ for a year, and being a teacher of English in primary school. It was nice to hear about her family, and all the dirt on her brother Philipp.

      Dinner afterwards in a small Italian restaurant she recommended, and an early night.

      29,471 steps, 23.1km, 6 flights.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 17

      To Cologne: Alarums and Excursions

      16 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Shakespeare’s famous stage direction is an apt introduction to today’s adventures.
      This was our trickiest day. To reach Cologne we must board the TGV ( high speed train) at Strasbourg (France), travel to Mannheim (Germany), unload our bulky luggage, find the correct platform for the second train, board it and get off in time in Cologne before the ICE (German high speed train) shot off to its ultimate destination in Kiel.
      After our scare in Munich, where we found the correct carriage and seats with only minutes to spare, we decided to take no chances. We arrived at Le Gare Strasbourg at 0800. Heaps of time (we thought ) for us to find our first train, due to leave at 0905.
      The minutes ticked by as we paced the gloomy corridors, avoiding hoards of worried looking people on their way to work. Deutche Bahn, the German rail service prides itself on clear explanation, helpful staff and informative signboards so you can find your way around,
      Not the French so-called “Information” office, staffed by a woman whose ancestors surely knitted at the guillotine.
      Neil asked which was the platform for our train.
      Until it arrives I will not know.
      Who can I ask?
      The train manager.
      Where can I find him?
      With the train. You must watch the notices.
      What is the final destination of the Mannheim train?
      (Triumphantly) I don’t know.

      We were getting nervous by this stage as I had worked out that there was less than 20 minutes between when the incoming showed up on the signboard and when it left. But Google saved the day; once we learned the first train was going to Frankfurt we at least knew which name ti look for!
      We were later told by a friendly US couple, married 52 years to our 54, and similarly touring the great gothic cathedrals, that French railway personnel hate Eurail passes ( like ours).

      We have now learned to park our heavy suitcases downstairs on two-level trains.we then made our way upstairs to enjoy the endless variety of life on the TGV- a charming young man from Tunisia ( North Africa), who works between Pariis snd Strasbourg ( his super-cute little boy gave us big smiles) . Four young musicians totally focussed on a table covered in musical scores (Ionesco’s Octet).
      The second leg of our journey went more smoothly. But we were relieved to exit correctly, on the right side of the train, onto the modern and well-lit Hauptbahnhof at Cologne.
      And look up, to see the towering twin spires of Cologne Cathedral, at 157m, the tallest twin-spired chuch in the eorkd; Getmany’s most-visited landmark (6 million visitors a year.)
      After dumping our bags with great relief at the hotel, we walked to the Rhine river to rhe famous Hohenzollern railway bridge. (417m). The original three-span bridge was built by Kaiser William II in 1911. Its piers were blown up by the Nazis in 1945 in a vain attempt to halt the Allied advance into Germany.
      It has now been reconstructed as a railway bridge with a separate pedestrian/ cyclist path. The wire fences are covered in padlocks.
      We walked across, looking fown at the huge barges passing underneath, feeling the path vibrate with each passing train.
      Then back to the hotel, just missing a mid-afternoon thunderstorm and heavy downpour.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 27

      Bamberg / Lübeck

      15 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

      We decided not to go out but to have breakfast in the hotel, and it was the best. It was in a huge, bright room with lots of space, with everything set out along one very long wall. One lady was rather shyly extolling the virtue of her home-made fruit quark, and another was plying people with pots of coffee or tea.

      We walked to the station and waited, and waited for the ICE to Hamburg. It was about 15 minutes late when it arrived. It had lots of spaces for luggage, seats weren’t a problem, the wifi was great (but no power points…) and raced along at 230kmph. The speed showed up on a monitor, and on a dedicated ICE computer link that also had all the connecting trains at all the stations, complete with platform numbers and time to get there. At one stage the train was 25 mins behind schedule, but by Hamburg (14:22) it was 1 minute ahead of time. We had to change platform for the regional train to Luebeck, and arrived around 3:15. We are getting to nbe very good at arriving at towns and hotels in the early afternoon. I have never done it before.

      Our hotel in Luebeck (Radisson Park Inn) is on an island between the station and city (5 mins to each). We walked into the city/town, and went up a lift to an observation platform in an old church tower, then walked up to the Rathaus and another huge church. In the 1200s Luebeck was the second largest city in Germany (after Cologne) and, even though not the home of kings or emperors, it was probably the richest, and it stayed that way for centuries, all due to trade. The old buildings were meant to show wealth and power – like the seven enormous steeples in town, and the fortified gates on the roadways. Unlike Bamberg, with its colours and Baroque/Rococo flourishes, Luebeck was austere Calvinistic simplicity, and still is.

      The Dom in Luebeck has two huge cathedral bells in pieces on the floor after a 1942 bombing raid and subsequent fire. It was almost as dramatic seeing them this time as in 1975… except it is the first church we have visited so far that sells tickets at the door. Hardly the dour Protestant approach… or maybe it is.
      Lots of walking around to find a restaurant off the very strong tourist track, but we could not find anything other than kebab shops, so we had dinner by the river with the hordes. It wasn’t bad at all.

      16,000 steps, 12.1km and 7 flights.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 16

      Nachtessen … 😋

      15 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

      Günzburger Rad-Bier (passt doch … 😉)
      Salat ab Buffet mit Orangen-Joghurt-Dressing
      Angus-Haus-Teller mit Spätzli
      Hauskaffee - warmer Kaffee mit Stracciatella-Eis und Baileys

      Gute Nacht - es war wieder ein fantastischer Tag - ohne Regen … 😎Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 15

      Stürtzelberg - Ostroy

      14 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

      La première panne est arrivée aujourdhui: la soudure de la sacoche de Flo a lachée. Heureusement, nous nous trouvons toujours dans la région des grandes villes (entre Cologne/Leverkusen/Düsseldorf/Duisburg/Essen/Krefeld/Wuppertal etc. on peut vite se perdre...) et du coup, au troisième magasin de vélo nous avons trouvée une nouvelle saccoche - de plus en superpromo 🤩

      Le b-mol de ce fait: notre veloroute suivait souvent les grandes routes - bien securisées, mais assez bruiantes et monotones et avec plein de feux rouges.

      Le soir nous avons trouvées un petit paradis: chez Annette et Go, warmshower hosts, a Orsoy nous avons passées une super belle soirée dans leur jardin avec un delicieux repas et beau échange humain.
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 26

      Bamberg

      14 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      We wandered down the street to have breakfast in a café, but not until 9am. It was a fantastic, warm spring day. We went around the town a little and up to the Catherdral and another church up on the high side of town. The biggest church is closed for renovations, and we have seen the many city buildings severeal times before. When Bamberg was a regional powerhouse the administrators had the high side and churches, while the people had the low side and businesses, with the town hall on the very border. It was the burghers saying their admin was as good as that of the lords and nobles.

      We met Max on the Rathaus bridge at 11:30, walked around, then had a coffee before he had to head home to see Jens, who was not well. His is not the easiest of lives.

      The afternoon was spent wandering around bits of Bamberg we had seen before, but only ever in winter (seeing Karl Orff's house again, the flying fox again, the cricket ground (for us) again, the river, the Rathaus etc), then going to Ilke’s flute practice for 40 mins. It was in the same street as the laundromat from the day before, so we knew exactly where to go. She really is good, and her teacher was delighted we came. Ilke also ha a favour to ask of us, which was on a secret English project we had to keep hidden from Max.

      Anne had mapped out dinner – two of Bamberg’s eight breweries were in the same street as the music lesson, so we tried the first one. It was simple Bavarian (or Frankish) pub life at its best, in a brewery that opened in 1649. It was crowded with non-tourists playing cards, talking and ordering very large (750ml?) glasses of beer. Dinner was simple pub food, but in massive amounts, and very good beer. After that we walked back through the town by going over a different bridge, from where we could see a SUP paddle-boarder on a very flat and still river, then back to the centre of town while the light was still so good.

      Tomorrow is a train to... drum roll... Luebeck, but not until 9:42am.

      19,124 steps, 14.5km and 6 flights…
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 25

      Paris / Bamberg

      13 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

      We were on the metro at 6:07 and at Gare de l'Est by 6:40 to catch the 7:25 train to Bamberg... a trip of 865 or so km. I had wanted to buy a Eurail pass for all our trains, but Anne thought it better to book and buy them individually, and she was right. Seats had to be reserved in any case on many of them, and for us they ran like clockwork.

      It was two trains together, so the walk along the platform to find our carriage was 250m +. It streaked to Strasbourg, then crawled to Karlsruhe and then Frankfurt at 11 (or a few minutes late). We changed platforms for the Regional train for the last bit. It left soon enough (11:30) but stuttered along, stopping everywhere (even where there were no stations) so it reached Bamberg at 14:32... plenty of time to look around.

      Bamberg is quite something. It is called the Frankish Rome, is built where two rivers meet, was first mentioned around 900AD, and is on the UNESCO world heritage list. It also has something like 8 breweries in the centre of the town. We have been here three times before, but always in winter, so summer was a new experience. The days are longer and the colours brighter... although it also brought lots of (mainly German) tourists. We stopped at a laundromat on the way, so did not check in at the hotel (Hotel Messerschmidt Weinhaus) until 3:30. It seems an odd name, but it is the building where Wily Messerschmitt (of Messerschmitt aircraft fame) was born and opened his first aircraft manufacturing business in 1923.

      We have a lovely bright room, and it is almost right in the old town. We organised ourselves, discussed our options for Wednesday /Thursday (still tbd), walked around the town hall just to re-acquaint ourselves, then headed off to meet Max at 6:30 at a restaurant/brewery near his new house.

      When I was an exchange student in 1975, I lived in Neumuenster (NMS), which is between Hamburg and Kiel. I lived with Max's family for perhaps half the year. Much of the other 6 months were spent with two other families, whom we will visit on Friday and Saturday when we are there. Max is a few years younger than me, but we got on well and keep in touch. Max moved to Bamberg perhaps 40 years ago, and began a website design business that did well. He married quite late (say 18 years ago) and has two children (13 and 11). Max was immortalised in the Great Bamberg Snowball Fight of January 2003, when Nico (in his first professional snowfight) was out-manouvered and hit by his own handfuls of snow, while Alistair picked everyone off because no-one could match his range. That was before we all had dinner in a brewery that made smoked beer.

      Tragically, Max's wife died about 15 months ago. Dinner with us had to fit in with school and flute lessons, since Max is now Mr Dad, and it was always going to be a bit tentative, I thought. In reality, it was fantastic. We were bowled along by the unstoppable enthusiasm of 11 yo Jens, who has taught himself English by watching Mr Beast on Youtube, and was speaking excellent English at 120 words a minute. We were stunned - but not nearly as much as his father! His sister Ilka was shyer to start with, but she was soon in control, and the two of them talked to us in English until they had to go home at 8:30. We had seen Ilka as a baby...before she won last year’s Bavarian State Championship for Flautist for her age. The three clearly get on well, but on all of them it must be so hard.

      The plan is to see Max again tomorrow so he can get more than the odd word in, maybe listen to Ilka's flute practice if the teacher allows and it is possible, and wander more through the town. We are also considering one of Max's suggestions for Wed/Thurs: Leipzig.

      The Messerschmidt hotel is excellent. 1. Feels like a traditional European hotel, not American. 2. Big, bright, quiet and clean room, with excellent wifi. 3. Right in the town. 4. Windows that open and small balcony. 5. No tea or coffee, but that's about the only flaw. 6. Jumping ahead, but breakfast (when we had it) was great.

      14,188 steps, 10.9km and 1 flight (which has to be wrong after the ups and downs at the stations...)
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 14

      Köln - Stürzelberg

      13 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      Petite etape aujourd hui, car c etait une journee sous le signe de la plage!
      Plage a midi, et plage ce soir!
      On a donc pris notre temps sur le sable fin 😎⛱️⚓🦆 et toujours avec ce festival de peniches sous nos yeux, notre television quotidienne 😜

      Ce matin nous avons fait un crochet par la vieille ville de Cologne pour admirer le Dom!!
      La Gigantesque Cathedrale (2 eme ayant la plus haute fleche du monde!!!

      Et nous voilà au camping a 30 km de ce matin😅, bon si nous devions compter toutes ces deviations quotidiennes, on doublerait les km !😜😘
      Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 14

      Kloster - Spaziergang

      13 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      … hier ist alles grösser und weiter - der Empfang in einem Haus - die Schlafzimmer in einem weiteren - und der Speisesaal zieht sich weit ins Freie - mal schauen was das Wetter morgen beim Frühstücken zulässt … 🥹Okumaya devam et

    • Gün 28

      Day 29: Berlin

      11 Mayıs, Almanya ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

      We smashed this city in one day seeing all the sites we wanted to and more. The Brandenburg gates; checkpoint Charlie; the Berlin Wall. But by for the monument and museum to the murdered Jews of Europe was an emotional three hours.Okumaya devam et

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