Greenland

Greenland

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16 travelers at this place:

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  • Day16

    Whenever I get back into civilization from a long hike, I have this strange feeling of disappointment for a short while. I understand that most people love getting back, finally able to sleep in a warm big bed, taking showers and eating fresh foods. Actually, I do usually go straight to a grocery store to stock up on carrots and fruits :) and it's not that I don't like hot showers and large comfy beds. I think I just enjoy the outdoors so much more and have learned to keep myself happy, warm, clean and well-fed when on an adventure.

    But there's of course wonderful perks to civilization - a cozy AirBnb with views over the ocean (whales included in the view! ;) ), meeting people and learning about the local life, chai lattes in cafes, and of course internet access to call the people I love and miss!

    And so we filled our days with some laziness, some exploring and (for me) starting to get back into work - which I really enjoy these days :) We also went fishing for a delicious cod, saw the sky filled with northern lights on 2 nights, and made great new friends. One of my favorites was a day hike, on which three local sled dogs tagged along for the adventure and followed me around almost 8 hours up steep mountains, crossing rivers (they had to swim), and taking breaks for some puppy cuddle time :) Sisimiut is a small town with much less activities than the guys from day 2 made it sound, but filled with lots of beauty and adventure to be discovered.

    Johanne, thanks for an amazing time, I'm sure this was not our last adventure together!
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  • Day11

    We made it to Sisimiut! Quite a few days earlier than we thought, but there are much worse problems one could have ;)

    Our last day was another sunny hike full of beauty and adventure. We crossed a wide fjell, covered in snow and really enjoyed the views of the fjord and the mountains. We had a few more river crossings and both were tricked by all the snow and ice up here. I stepped on a stone that was covered in (to me) invisible ice and slipping, I banged my knee against a boulder. Johanne slipped while crossing snowy rocks and found herself standing in the river, the boots completely covered in ice water. So since we were so close to town, we decided to just hike all the way and not camp on the way as we had planned. I would have loved to stay a few more days, but am also very happy I get to clean more clothes, and take a hot shower in town :)

    It's been a really beautiful journey with lots of fun, adventures and time for talks, reading and to think about some of the stuff that might fall aside in busy every day life.

    Oh, most importantly here are our three favorite recurring jokes of the trail:
    1. "In Sisimiut, there are SO MANY ACTIVITIES."
    This one started on the bus back from the ice cap, where I sat with three proud Greenlandic guys talking about their beautiful country. It was nice to learn from them. I asked what I should do or see in Sisimiut (their hometown), and they replied there would be SO MANY ACTIVITIES. I asked for an example and they became still and then eventually said "you'll see when you get there". So we stayed in much anticipation and excitement to see ALL the exciting things to do and see in the small city of Sisimiut - once we get there!
    2. "Water is life"
    This recurring joke was just a constant reminder not to get frustrated with all the water in the trail. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it might have made Johanne only more annoyed, but most time it was a fun joke to laugh about many times a day ;)
    3. "Huh - have you guys tasted the water from this big lake?"
    This one was added to our repertory on one of our last days. We were near the fjord and talking to the Belgians when they had just cooked dinner and one girl noticed something tasted funny. "Have you guys tried the water from this lake? It tastes weird" "No, we carried water in from the river. Because this lake is a really big lake, called the Atlantic ocean..." ;)
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  • Day2

    We've had such a good first day! The hiking is a bit boring because for the most part, we're walking on a gravel road to the ice cap. I very much prefer trails, but there's an exciting part - it's the longest road in all of Greenland from Kangerlussuaq to the eternal ice!

    The weather has been wildly mixed, we got everything from sun to rain and some hail. And the closer we get to this massive body of ice (an area covering almost 5 times the area of Germany), the colder the air is getting. We set up camp in the late afternoon by a small lake, protected from the icy wind coming from the east. After I took a short nap, we walked up to Russell glacier to explore the enormous mass of ice and later enjoy one of the most magical sunsets. The twilight let the fall-colored bushes and heather glow red and yellow, while the Ice shone in piercing bright white.

    We also made friends with Frank (picture 3), a proud Greenlandic musk ox, with such long hair and short legs, it looked extremely entertaining to watch him run across the Arctic tundra :)
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  • Day3

    We were so impressed and taken by the ice cap, we decided to stick around another day and hike further north and up on same level with the ice. It was going to be a long hike and towards freezing winds, but we were lucky to have sun all day and enjoyed all the different views we got, following the giant glacier northward. Around 3pm, I was standing on the ice cap :) I didn't go far and Johanne decided to stay on terra firma, but it was so exciting to see the endless amount of ice and more and more ice, as far as the horizon goes.

    To be honest, walking on the long gravel road was not the most fun and on the way back, we both had very unhappy feet. But the views were incredible and it was all worth it, plus we were going to get on the trails once back in Kangerlussuaq. But then heaven (I call it Marvin) sent along an empty tour bus and two Danish guides who gave us a ride back to our tent :)

    While packing up and getting ready to hike for at least a few more hours before sunset, Johanne had a small breakdown, which I've had plenty when traveling or hiking in a new place. Sometimes the long and physically demanding journey ahead or all the unknown places or just new challenges can just get overwhelming. I know these moments very well and just as I told Johanne about a "what the h am I doing here" moment I had earlier this year and said "...and as soon as you decide to just keep going anyways, usually something amazing an beautiful follows your doubts". The second I finished the sentence, another tourbus (the second of only two that day) came around the corner. I start running just to catch it in time for them to pick us up, get us all the way back to Kangerlussuaq and up our spirits with free refreshments and a delicious giant dinner sandwich, which we enjoyed at our campsite just outside of town. Thanks, Marvin!
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  • Day4

    8/24 Day 1. Flight leaving Copenhagen, took 4 hours to connect at Kangerlussuaq on the west side of Greenland and flew another 45 min to Ilulissat. Kangerlussuag airport has 2 gates only. Wine at the Duty Free store would save you at least 30% than the local stores. High in 54F, Low in 35F.

  • Day4

    8/24 Day 1 afternoon. Arrived in the afternoon. Rented a house from Airbnb. It turned out to be a great choice because it's among the local residences with great views. Went grocery shopping. With population of 4000+, Ilulissat has a school, two museums, a sports facility with even badminton courts. The outdoor soccer field is where local boys love to hang out. Recycling is pretty serious in this little town.Read more

  • Day4

    8/24 Evening. After shopping and quick tour of the town, we had dinner with frozen food and some vegetable with congee. It was too late to get fresh fish from the fishing boats. Since the sun is still up, we decided to hike on the short Yellow Trail which is about 2.6 km. Spectacular view along the way. Ilulissat Icefjord is UNESCO World Heritage Site. The orange poles on top of the hills carris UNESCO cairn. Just got off the track before sunset at about 11pm.Read more

  • Day6

    8/26 Hiking the Blue Trail today. 6.9 km took us about 6 hours with a 6 yr old. One side of the trail is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The trail started with an easy decked path for about 1 km. Both of the trail head and tail were surrounded by the dog park. Greenlandic sledge dogs were chained here for the whole summer. The breed is half wolf half dog so they howl most of the time. It's prohibited to approach and pat the dog. They could break loose the chain and attack people. There are thousands of such dog in this area. After the hike, we had the best sashimi ever, with noodle soup made with fish bone and head. Then we had second round of dinner an hour later for seared Halibut fillet. Yum.....Read more

  • Day7

    8/27 Raining. Everything is foggy so we decided to walk around the town and check out their museums and shops. Ilulissat museum was informative about the history, the people, the dogs, and some art work. The arts museum is smaller that has mostly local artists' work. After couple hours of walking in the rain and brainstorming the town, we chose HongKong Cafe as THE restaurant to try. Boy how disappointing we were. We end up getting 4 bowl of Ramon noodles costing about $8 each. So, we had to make it up at dinner time. Atlantic Redfish was the main dish. Battered with bread crumb and fry it to crispy. Still so tender and juicy inside. A house with no TV, no clock and no WIFI, we had a great time playing poke and sharing jokes.Read more

  • Day8

    8/28 Private boat rental through IceCap in the afternoon. Breath taking scenes and a lot of close up play with two humpback whales. Dinner with grilled halibut, corn cream soap, chicken wings, and tomato stir fry egg. Can never tired of delicious halibut.

You might also know this place by the following names:

Greenland, Grönland, Groenland, Greenman, ግሪንላንድ, غرينلاند, Qrinland, Грэнландыя, Гренландия, Gɔrɔhenelandi, গ্রীনল্যান্ড, Greunland, Grenland, Grenlàndia, Grónsko, Yr Ynys Las, Grønland, Grinland nutome, Γροιλανδία, Gronlando, Groenlandia, Gröönimaa, گرینلاند, Gorwendland, Grönlanti, An Ghraonlainn, Grenlandia, ગ્રીનલેન્ડ, Grinlan, גרינלנד, ग्रीनलैण्ड, Grinlandia, Grænland, グリーンランド, გრენლანდია, Grinlandi, Kalaallit Nunaat, ಗ್ರೀನ್‌ಲ್ಯಾಂಡ್, 그린랜드, Gurenelandi, Gowelande, Grenlandija, Ngowelande, Grenlande, Гренланд, ഗ്രീന്‍ലാന്‍റ്, ग्रीनलंड, Grinlandja, ဂရင်းလန်း, Gröönland, ग्रिनल्याण्ड, ଗ୍ରୀନଲ୍ୟାଣ୍ଡ, Gronelândia, Grönlanda, Gurunilandi, Groenlanda, Gorolânde, ග්‍රීන්ලන්තය, கிரீன்லாந்து, గ్రీన్లేండ్, กรีนแลนด์, Kulinileni, Ґренландія, گرین لینڈ, Băng Đảo, Orílẹ́ède Gerelandi, 格陵兰, i-Greenland

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