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    • Day 5

      Hello Ultramarine

      August 2, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

      Once our flight landed, we were whisked onto the transfer buses for a 30-minute ride to the dock … no immigration; no customs.

      At the dock, a number of expedition team members were waiting for us with zodiacs. Donning life vests, we hopped into one of the boats and off we went on a 3-minute ride to embark Ultramarine … our home away from home for the next two weeks.Read more

      Traveler  Interesting looking ship.


      Two to Travel  It’s a beautiful new expedition ship … purpose-built and in its first real season of use … thanks to COVID-19. Carries 199 pax … but we are only 120 on this trip.


       What a wonderful adventure! Thanks for sharing, Erin. [Diana]

    • Day 9

      Back South to Sisimiut

      August 6, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

      Remember how I said there are only two places around here where we can top off the ship´s fuel tanks? Well, that’s what brought us back south … to Sisimiut, Greenland’s second largest community. Although we’re still north of the Arctic Circle, this town — with a population of little more than 5,000 — is considered the island’s northernmost ice-free harbor in the winter.

      Once Ultramarine was docked — yes, no zodiac landing today — off we went for a wander around Sisimiut. Quark had arranged for a tour with local guides and a “tasting of Greenlandic delicacies” … that included crab and shrimp, but also whale blubber and seal. Since we had done both the tour and the tasting in 2013, Mui and I decided to take off on our own this time.

      (The story of our 2013 visit — in words and images (including the delicacies Mui tasted) — is at this link:….)

      Our wander first took us further into town … to places where the locals live and shop. People were going about their daily business and it just didn’t feel right to take photograph of them doing so. No photos, I’m afraid. I did, nonetheless, get plenty of memory-shots of the colorful houses dotting the landscape. And when the overcast, foggy conditions gave way to short-lived blue skies … well, all bets were off and the phone clicked away, creating new memories.

      We had planned to have coffee and pastries at a cafe recommended by one of our expedition guides. By the time we arrived, however, the place was packed with locals. Nowhere to sit. Plus, we didn’t want to intrude. Time to retrace our steps.

      On our way back to the ship, we stopped at the museum, which we visited in 2013 as well. Quark had once again pre-paid the admission for us, so we wandered around the buildings, checking out the various exhibits.

      Once we returned to Ultramarine, there was a surprise in store for us all. While we watched from the ship, a local man demonstrated his kayak skills … essential to living and hunting in this part of the world. How he did not get a brain freeze as he rolled his kayak over and over again is beyond me. (No video this time, but there is a short gif file in the link I inserted above.)

      An excellent time in Greenland — unexpected in terms of some of the places we visited — has now wrapped up. Ultramarine has been “fed” … the fuel tanks are topped off. Time to head west across the Davis Strait.
      Read more

      Sonia Gelman  So incredibly beautiful! Love the colors of the houses.


      Two to Travel  You should think about going. I know Quark has accommodated people with mobility issues in the past. Or, Hurtigruten might be an option.


       Love the vibrant colors and your sharp artistic eye, Erin. Good to see you and Mui having so much fun! [Diana]

      3 more comments
    • Day 8

      Trekking Along the Icefjord

      August 5, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

      There are four popular trails to hike in Ilulissat … each providing a different perspective of the Ilulissat Icefjord (Ilulissat Kangerlua in Greenlandic).

      The 25-mile long fjord begins at the Greenland Ice Sheet and ends at Disko Bay. Way up at the head of the fjord is Sermeq Kujalleq (aka Jakobshavn Glacier) … a fast moving, active river of ice. It is this glacier — combined with the amazing scenery in the area — that has put the Ilulissat Icefjord on the UNESCO World Heritage Site List.

      There are no views of the glacier from where the town is located … nor from the trails. All the visible ice — for miles and miles and miles — consists of bergs that have calved off the glacier. Some 20 BILLION tons per year according to the Wikipedia article I read. Another mind boggling number from the same source says that some of the icebergs are up to 3,300 feet (1 km) in height! No wonder they are grounded and remain in the fjord until such time as they break up and can free themselves. Due to the way the currents run, it is believed that the iceberg that caused the demise of Titanic came from this fjord.

      When we visited Ilulissat in 2013, we walked through town to the boardwalk that runs down to the Icefjord for views that I still have a hard time comprehending … even after seeing them again today. On that occasion, we returned to town via the blue and red trails … coming across Thule skeletal remains that our historian Laurie pointed out along the way.

      (The story of our 2013 hike — in words and images — is at this link …….)

      This time, we wanted to do something different. So, we opted for the yellow route. Instead of taking the shuttle arranged by Quark to the newly constructed Ice Center at the junction of the trails, we decided to hike the path in reverse by walking through town …. thanks, Fabrice, for showing us the short cut.

      The downside to our plan was that we dawdled so much on the trail that we never had time to go into the Ice Center. On the other hand, had we gone to the center by starting at that end of the trail, we might not have managed to complete the hike. Definitely a dilemma.

      It wasn’t so much the distance that delayed us — about 2.5 miles with the walk to the trailhead near the power plant tacked on. Nor was the rocky terrain that had us crawling over and around boulders and rocks a problem. Even the elevation gain was a non-issue. It was the jaw-dropping scenery that kept stopping our forward progress!

      We’re back on the ship now. But our day is not over yet …
      Read more

      Sonia Gelman  It is amazing!


      Traveler  on i80 toward Salt Lake I can finally see the photos!


      Two to Travel  Yay!

      4 more comments
    • Day 9

      Die "Yellow Route"

      August 19, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

      Am letzen Tag wollten wir noch mal wandern gehen. Zunächst die „YELLOW ROUTE“ und zum Center, dann mal schauen.
      Es gibt in Ilulissat los, runter zum Kraftwerk und dann der Küste lang. Immer die großen Eisberge vor uns.
      Beim letzten Abstieg zum UNESCO Fjörd konnten wir schon die Wale hören. Sie waren wieder da. Und wie! Bei der Tour gestern konnten wir in dem Gebiet einige sehen, jetzt von Land mit aller Zeit und keine Nebengeräusche war das noch mal von ganz anderer Qualität. Ein Traum.
      Lust zu einem Caffe hat uns dann doch ins Icefjord Center getrieben. Wir sind dann aber wieder zurück zu den Walen.
      Das war der krönende Abschluss einer unglaublichen Reise.
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      Traveler  sehr sehr schön


      Traveler  tolles Foto

    • Day 3


      August 13, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

      Ankunft in Ilulissat war problemlos. Unser Gepäck kam an, es kam dann auch gleich ein Bus, der uns zu unserem Hotel gebracht hatte. Unser Zimmer war noch noch nicht fertig und haben uns noch etwas die Füße vertreten.
      Atemberaubend! Die Eisberge fahren hier einfach vorbei. Wir sind begeistert! Das Wetter ist komisch. In der Sonne ist es gleich sehr warm, sonst doch frisch.
      Read more

      Traveler  Ist es bei Euch auch so heiss?


      Traveler  Es braucht einfach Sonnenschutz in diesen Zeiten.


      Traveler  Das kühlt beim Hinschauen schön ab.

    • Day 3


      August 13, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

      Mir war das gar nicht so bewusst. Aber das Highlight unserer Reise liegt ja quasi um die Ecke von Ilulissat.

      Der Ilulissat-Eisfjord ist der Kanal, durch welchen das vom Ilulissat-Gletscher (Sermeq Kujalleq auf Grönländisch) kalbende Eis das Meer erreicht. Der Ilulissat-Gletscher ist einer der aktivsten und sich am schnellsten bewegenden Gletscher der Welt und wird seit über 250 Jahren von Wissenschaftlern untersucht, um dabei zu helfen, den Klimawandel besser zu verstehen.

      Und ist einfach wunderschön!
      Read more

      Traveler  Das ist ein toller Kontrast.


      Traveler  Wahnsinns-Bilder!!

    • Day 4

      Unser erster Wal

      August 14, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

      Nach einer Stunde auf Bord kam der Aufschrei „ whale ahead“. Tatsächlich war gleich neben dem Schiff ein kleiner Buckelwal zu sehen. Er schwom dann Steuerbord in Richtung der Disko-Insel zwischen den treibenden Eisberge davon.
      Wale erzeugen doch immer einen mystischen Moment.
      Read more

      Traveler  Einen Wal vor der Linse! Wahnsinn!!


      Traveler  Ist aber nur ein Platzhalterfoto … :-)

    • Day 5

      We’re On Our Way!

      August 2, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

      Our checked bags and the provisions that came with us on the flight to supplement the ship’s commissary have been barged to Ultramarine in the wake of our arrival by zodiac.

      The muster drill is complete … and we are on our way. We’ve postponed settling into our cabin until after dinner so we can enjoy a bit of the sail away.

      Once we leave Kangerlussuaq Fjord, Ultramarine will head south along the Greenland coast for our first planned activities tomorrow … a tundra hike and a community visit.
      Read more

      Traveler  What an adventure! For some reason, I don't get notifications of your posts, so I'm happy you commented on our blog so that I could discover what you're up to this time. You two are amazing!


      Two to Travel  Looks like notification settings are based on whether you are viewing on the app or the web ... here's the link to the…. I’ve set up another account to see if I get notifications via email when I post something to Two to Travel.


      Two to Travel  Not sure why that is … could they be going to spam? I’ll run a test with Mui on my end.

    • Day 6

      Tundra Hike: Inussuit Tasersuat

      August 3, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      We’re still far enough south — a little below the Arctic Circle — that we had a bit of darkness last night … and a bit of sunrise color this morning. That will change soon enough.

      Our plan of activities for today called for a tundra hike to a lake in the Greenland wilderness. In the briefing last night, the hike was described as fairly easy. When we got ashore, Christian, our Expedition Leader, had a revised description for us … rocky terrain with some steep sections … and patches of boggy, wet soil. “Team members will be positioned along the way to give you a hand up,” he said.

      This was a perimeter hike. Meaning that “bear guards” were positioned at high points. Within that perimeter, we could climb the path at our own pace ... being careful to stay on the rough trail as much as possible in order to protect the tundra. Alrighty then. Onward we went, taking it slow and easy … primarily to take photos and enjoy the remote tundra setting, but also to catch our breath periodically.

      Once we reached the lake, we clambered down the rocky terrain to the lake’s edge to take our photos. Then back up again for Labrador tea (made from a local plant) and bannock … prepared by one of the locals from Maniitsoq, the community we planned to visit in the afternoon.

      A great first outing of our expedition.
      Read more

      Traveler  Wow!! What an incredible adventure! You two are such intrepid travelers. That landscape is gorgeous.

    • Day 7

      Eqip Sermia: Caught Some Calvings

      August 4, 2022 in Greenland ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

      With Ultramarine at a standstill in front of Eqip Sermia, there was no doubt in my mind that we would be enjoying views of this river of ice from our veranda once we were back on board. Mui even picked up some cookies and hot chocolate from the self-serve coffee bar in the Panorama Lounge on deck 7 forward. Can you say “snack with a view?”

      The bonus of spending time on the veranda? I caught a snippet of some of the smaller calvings that were shedding ice from the terminus. Granted, such was the ship’s distance to the glacier that the calvings were not visible to the naked eye. But I got lucky because they were happening in the background of a video I was shooting of a zodiac cruising along the face of the ice.

      (See video #2 … look towards the right side where the glacier meets the water.)

      On the matter of Eqip Sermia’s retreat, I annotated a panorama I took from the veranda to show the ridge we climbed to in 2013 … and the area that was filled with ice at the time.
      Read more

      Traveler  the ice is truly jaw dropping as you said in another photo.


    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Greenland, Grönland, Groenland, Greenman, ግሪንላንድ, غرينلاند, Qrinland, Грэнландыя, Гренландия, Gɔrɔhenelandi, গ্রীনল্যান্ড, Greunland, Grenland, Grenlàndia, Grónsko, Yr Ynys Las, Grønland, Grinland nutome, Γροιλανδία, Gronlando, Groenlandia, Gröönimaa, گرینلاند, Gorwendland, Grönlanti, An Ghraonlainn, Grenlandia, ગ્રીનલેન્ડ, Grinlan, גרינלנד, ग्रीनलैण्ड, Grinlandia, Grænland, グリーンランド, გრენლანდია, Grinlandi, Kalaallit Nunaat, ಗ್ರೀನ್‌ಲ್ಯಾಂಡ್, 그린랜드, Gurenelandi, Gowelande, Grenlandija, Ngowelande, Grenlande, Гренланд, ഗ്രീന്‍ലാന്‍റ്, ग्रीनलंड, Grinlandja, ဂရင်းလန်း, Gröönland, ग्रिनल्याण्ड, ଗ୍ରୀନଲ୍ୟାଣ୍ଡ, Gronelândia, Grönlanda, Gurunilandi, Groenlanda, Gorolânde, ග්‍රීන්ලන්තය, கிரீன்லாந்து, గ్రీన్లేండ్, กรีนแลนด์, Kulinileni, Ґренландія, گرین لینڈ, Băng Đảo, Orílẹ́ède Gerelandi, 格陵兰, i-Greenland

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