Primitivo (I think)
  • Day22

    Soldiers, stained glass and a concert

    May 8, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Today we found our way to the Lobkowicz Palace, part of Prague Castle. I found it fascinating, with a one hour concert first (piano, flute and viola), then an audio guide and tour that tells a far more personal and intimate story than is usual in historic monuments. The Haymakers by Bruegel the Elder and two fabulous views of London by Canaletto, and (for me) the highlight - Handle’s score of The Messiah marked up and rearranged by Mozart. And several of Beethoven’s original symphony scores , I also loved the coffee and cake on the Palace verandah! In the sun and with a fabulous view of Prague. Next some stunning art nouveau stained glass windows in St Vitnius Cathedral. We were then totally culture stuffed so walked down to the town square to watch a lot of people watching the astronomical clock strike the hour.Read more

  • Day21

    Coffee, cake and lochs

    May 7, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Arrived in Prague after riding on the motorway - a frustrating experience with many delays due to roadworks. Very cold still, and a sprinkle of rain just as we entered the city. We’re staying in a hotel a few kilometres from the centre. Now we are on a motorbike getting secure parking becomes a hotel priority, and that’s not easy in a crowded old city. But the chosen hotel has it, is very good, cheaper than in town, and minutes walk from a tram stop that takes us straight to the centre. Today we walked a bit, did a reconnoiter, ate a delicious lunch and late afternoon tea in gracious old coffee houses, and watched a loch open and close.Read more

  • Day20

    Riding in the snow

    May 6, 2019 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    A fun ride from Passau to Česky Krumlov. Cold, but exhilarating. Just before we hit the Czech border the snow flakes started coming down. Only light and not for long. I was very glad we’d stopped in Passau to pick up a waterproof coat to go over my leather jacket. We were surprisingly comfortable - except for my hands. I tried to sit on them, because my seat is well heated!
    Česky Krumlov is just gorgeous. The Gold Hotel where we stayed perfectly located and gave the bike a perfect secure spot in the entrance courtyard. Great food too! I’d like the recipe for the mushroom and dill soup.
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  • Day19


    May 5, 2019 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    A lovely respite with Zuzana, Philipp and Boubou. Their home is fabulous, and Ian was suitably impressed by the high tech features. Including the “garden house” - a luxurious shelter for his bike. A trip to the beer festival, scenic views of Passau, “the town of three rivers” (interesting to see the confluence and mix of water colour), St Stephens Cathedral (“the Dome”), and a simply delicious lunch.Read more

  • Day18


    May 4, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Took off from Santiago de Compostela airport (Lavacola) at dawn, a quick stop in Madrid, and on to Munich. Ian arrived on his new motorbike - yum! But our friend Philipp was also there in his car and it was decided that I would travel with him, in comfort, while Ian had his first ride on his new motorbike solo. Which seemed pretty sensible to me - when it started raining. We are staying with Zuzana and Philipp in their absolutely fabulous high tech house in Passau.Read more

  • Day17

    Walk on

    May 3, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A long walk (for me) from Arzua to just past Lavacola, I think about 30km. But I made it - and it was a great and enjoyable walk. I really love the walking along this section of the Camino Francés, before hitting the outskirts of Santiago..
    After much WhatsApp discussion with Ian, and checking of airfares, I’m finishing my walk here, and very early tomorrow will fly to Munich, where Ian is waiting - with my motorbike gear and his lovely new (2nd hand) bike.
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  • Day16

    The fiesta del Camino

    May 2, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Joined the flocks winging their way to Santiago. Yes, it is a crowd, and yes, many have only joined at Sarria, but what a pleasure to have joyful Spaniards join together singing! As they all did, spontaneously, when a popular song came on the radio in one of the bars. I find these new pilgrims bring a freshness and excitement to an old path.
    On the outskirts of Melide is the beautiful Romanesque Igrexa de Santa María de Melide, dating from the 12th Century. A perfect place for me to stop and light candles of hope for some special people.
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  • Day15

    Gentle rolling hills

    May 1, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Walked into Melide after a nice 20km stroll, through the pretty village of As Seixas, up along a ridgeline with wind turbines and a view, Melide beckoning from afar. Everywhere the sound of songbirds tweeting their spring songs, wild gorse and heather on the hills, then deep green lanes, beech trees and eucalypts . Constantly small streams and little waterfalls - it is Galicia!Read more

  • Day14

    Roman bridge, casa of delights

    April 30, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    A long 28km slog from Lugo to Ferreira. Lovely, but long. I was going to stay at San Román, but the albergue there convinced me I could do the extra 8km. I can cope with simple, but not dirt. My feet did pay the price, although nothing that a few painkillers and some red wine could not fix! I stayed at a simply lovely renovated old stone house, beside the old Roman bridge at Ferreira. A very superior B&B - lovely people, good food, and a comfortable private room.Read more

  • Day13


    April 29, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A slog into Lugo. Hot. Blisters. No water, and even worse, no coffee! Was so glad to crawl into town. Had a personalised tour of the cathedral by a very earnest young nun - Lugo is a pilgrimage site because”the blessed Host is always present in the Cathedral”. What I find amazing is the Roman roots of Lugo, founded by the successor of Julius Caesar and the most remarkable Roman walls, still standing and encircling the inner city. We lucked out with a great 3 bedroom apartment, nicely situated right over a fabulous pastry shop/cafe, and within easy walking distance of the main tapas area. We ate well!Read more