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  • Day 94

    Day 94: Exploring Cornwall

    May 20, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Awoke fairly early to the typical farm sounds of animals and wandered upstairs for a nice simple breakfast laid on by our host. She wasn't around, having warned us the night before she'd likely be off in the fields somewhere in the morning. But don't lock the door when we go out, as she doesn't have a key! Apparently she doesn't even lock it when she goes on holiday, the area is that safe.

    Today was about exploring more of Cornwall and the UNESCO World Heritage site in the area, so we made our first stop at the ruins of Botallack Mine, perched precariously on the cliffs above crashing seas. There's not much left to see here other than ruined buildings, but we had a good look around still. The most interesting part is two old pumping houses right on the cliff edge, where their engines would drive the huge mining operations taking place under the sea. This is also where the BBC series Poldark was filmed, at least in part - or so I'm told, anyway; I've never watched it.

    Next up we headed south to the little town of Mousehole (pronounced Muzzel or Mao-zel by the locals). It's a tiny little fishing village, perched prettily around a tiny harbour and with a few very narrow streets and cute shops. Quite enchanting, though there were a good number of tourists about. I shudder to think of what it's like during the summer months! We had lunch in a small cafe here before wandering up and down most of the streets in town.

    Last stop for the day was over on the southern coast of Cornwall, at a place called St Michael's Mount. This is a large rock sticking out of the sea, where a castle and church were built during the medieval era, along with a few other buildings. Access is only via walking across at low tide; other times the causeway is underwater in the bay! It's quite similar to Mont-San-Michel in France, though not quite as dramatic or impressive.

    It was about halfway between high and low tides when we arrived, so there was no chance of walking out to the rock (it's a few hundred metres offshore). Parking was also a comical 7 pounds flat rate so we took a few photos in the dull overcast light and headed back to the farmhouse.

    Spent a couple of hours relaxing before we headed out for dinner. This time we headed east from Morvah (last night we'd gone west). The first pub we stopped at was more of a gastropub and quite fancy, and booked out if you can believe that! The second pub had much more space and was more homely, so we ended up eating there. Took ages though, as something malfunctioned with their computer system and our order disappeared! Other people's meals were coming out quite slowly so we didn't think much of it, but after we'd been waiting for an hour and the adjacent couple had received their meals within 20 minutes of arriving and ordering, we asked the kitchen. Alas! At least we got a free round of drinks and a free bowl of fries as well.

    Back to the farmhouse in the dark which was a bit interesting (especially after two pints!), but by now I knew most of the bumps in the road and we arrived home safely. Early to bed ahead of a long drive tomorrow!
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