Mayotte Mayotte

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  • Day 74

    Dolphins Always Smile

    September 22, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    I sure like sea mammals.

    As we were approaching the southern tip of the island, Kimi and I were saying: this was a perfect sail, now we just need dolphins! And a few minutes later (might have been an hour, time does funny things while sailing) we saw some splishes off to starboard and happily welcomed our welcome committee.

    They danced along our bow for a little while, cavorting effortlessly, and watching us as much as we were watching them, I suspect.

    I hope to always feel this childlike sense of wonder upon seeing these marvelous animals.
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  • Day 293

    Französische Komoren - Mayotte

    May 25, 2024 in Mayotte ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    Heute legen wir schon ganz früh in Mayotte an. Dies ist eine Insel der französischen Komoren in Afrika. Wir sind also im südlichsten Zipfel der EU. Hier wird wieder rechts gefahren und man zahlt mit Euro.
    Vom Schiff aus sehen wir viele große und kleine Felsen und unbewohnte Inseln. Auf Mayotte ragt ein markanter kegelförmiger Berg heraus. Es ist der 593m hohe Vulkan Choungui. Vom Schiff aus kann ich auch den dichten Wald mit vielen Palmen und Bananenbäumen sehen.

    Wir werden wieder mit einheimischem Tanz und Musik begrüßt. Es ist Samstag früh 7.30 Uhr. Leider schläft Mayotte noch. Es ist kein Geschäft oder Cafe geöffnet. Wir treffen Schiffskameraden welche gebau wie wir planlos durch die Stadt laufen. Einer schlägt vor, uns anzuschließen eine Runde zu laufen und dann ein Taxi zu teilen.
    Wir halten als erstes an einem Strand mit dunklem, ja fast schwarzem Sand. Hier steht ein großer uralter Baobab - ein Affenbrotbaum. Sie können 400 Jahre alt und 10 - 20m hoch werden! Weil die Bäume aussehen als würden sie auf dem Kopf stehen nennt man sie auch upside-down-tree. Sie speichern in der Regenzeit 140.000 Liter Wasser! Weil alle seine Teile genutzt werden - z. B. für Medizin, Nahrung, Hygiene- und Haushaltsartikel - nennen ihn die Leute hier Zauberbaum. Nach dem kurzen Zwischenstopp geht die Fahrt weiter zu einem Aussichtspunkt, von dem aus man einen schönen Blick auf den Mont Choungui und auf eine Bucht hat. Der nächste Strand den wir besuchen ist der Plage de N'Gouja. Ich nenn ihn einfach Zebrastrand wegen seiner ungewöhnlichen Musterung. Dort soll es Schildkröten geben. Leider sehen wir keine und können auch nicht lange bleiben, weil das Schiff schon wieder wartet. Jetzt heißt es "Ab nach Hause ohne Pause!"
    Wir kommen rechtzeitig an der Ablegestelle.
    Zum Abendbrot überrascht uns ein großer roter Mond, dessen Aufgang wir vom Terassencafe bewundern können. Nun liegen 2 Seetage und wieder ein Zeitzonenwechsel vor uns bis wir in Mosambik ankommen.
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  • Day 72

    Karma (re)Joins the Crew

    September 20, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Olivier's dog, Karma, came back from the pet sitter last night.

    So now we are three aboard the Mabaï, and of course I am happy as any dog lover at having the extra canine energy around.

    Also notable- I went to the airport to pass immigration, easy peasy; got a delicious croissant & cafe; had a real, land-based shower; and enjoyed some time among the fine folks at ACHM - the yacht club /sailing school of Mayotte.Read more

  • Day 45

    Mayotte

    January 2, 2024 in Mayotte ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    was a bit off colour so I delayed my trip until the afternoon Went into Mamoudzou on tender. Had a look around there was a large covered market but no WiFi. Mayotte is a very poor country.
    We had a long wait in the heat to get on the catermaran. It was a good trip to the lagoon which was in the sea. Then we went to a beach where I swam and borrowed a snorkel. I did not go very far out but saw some bright blue fish and others.Read more

  • Day 92

    Travel Is Fun! ... half truth?

    October 10, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Nah
    It's fun. :)

    This morning was exciting. Olivier volunteers with the local equivalent of sorta-coast-sorta-life guards. Pretty rad: he gets to zoom around in a ~40ft rib with twin 300HP engines. 40kts sounds like a hoot.

    And so at 3AM he got up and out to go offload a malaria-sick Russian sailor from a 600ft cargo ship in bucking waves. I sorta slept through it and was only slightly concerned about his getting back in time to get me to the airport. A plan B was in place but was not needed.

    I enjoyed a cloudy sunrise and some coffee then he returned and I packed up my backpack (this should be faster! I've packed so. many. times) and we headed off for one last delicious pain au chocolat et cafe elaongee. Ah... I will miss France (erm, Mayotte).

    We cut things a wee bit close on getting me to the airport. It's a tiny airport and only runs a couple flights per day.

    Interestingly.... It seems that two or three of today's flights are basically now. How efficient of them! And what a tremendous amount of disorganization!

    The highlight of my travel day is going to be hard to pinpoint... But the first very exciting moment was the check-in agent telling me that it is not possible to board *To Madagascar* unless one has a return/exit ticket *From Madagascar*. This regulation is not unusual, per se, but discovering it a week after buying my ticket while trying to board was very exciting. Finding out that I had five minutes to resolve the situation or I'd miss my flight? Oh, boy! What fun.

    At this point I want to express my profound appreciation and gratitude for having a credit card and a USA passport.

    So I trotted over to the ticket counter and asked about a refundable ticket to anywhere (while humming a Journey tune). My eyes jus barely remained within my noggin when the lovely young woman told me it was 4,970 euros. Laughing, I said "that's refundable if I change the ticket, right?" She said yes. I rephrased and re-asked the question to ensure no language barrier. One cannot be too thorough in these matters!

    And so I bit the bullet and bought the ticket.

    To my tremendous relief, it was €497.
    Sometimes losing a zero is quite a relief despite being nothing.

    And while doing this the gate agent came over to tell me that carry-on is limited to 6kg (less than 15lbs) and I have to check my backpack. So I reluctantly left my passport with ticket lady and followed gate lady to check my bag. It merits mention that I am on the plan now with dozens of people who have roller bags that are very clearly more than 5kg.... But no matter.

    Oops: spoiler. I made the flight.

    Ok
    So checked in and booked onward, I got into the immigration/security line at about 7:30, for an 8:00am flight. This is never a great thing and recent missed-by-minutes flights have me feeling less than optimistic about tight timelines.

    In the glacial immigration line I managed to relax into whatever is coming next. What choice is there? When two people cut in front of me for passport control I laughed out loud... And the person behind me called out something to them, which apparently shamed them into stopping and letting me go. So sometimes laughter *is* the best medicine!

    Security was remarkably thorough for a 50 minute puddle jumper flight in a turboprop. What the hell am I going to do hijacking *this* plane?!?

    And so I hustled through.... To wait.

    They took our tickets then had us walk down a flight of stairs to the tarmac, where we waited fifteen minutes. For a bus. That didn't work. Then one that does. To drive.... 26 seconds at 5mph to the plane. Ha!!

    The gate agent walked past us after we boarded the bus and got to the plane 20 meters away before we did. What a remarkable example of following rules. Good for another chuckle.

    And so finally at 8:46 we are taxiing. For a flight for which I was urgently rushed through boarding at 7:00.

    Sigh. Travel *is* fun, but sometimes ya gotta look for the joy in the absurdity. A lot like life, no?

    And that refundable ticket? It says no refunds in the fine print.
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  • Day 91

    So Long ACHM

    October 9, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ 🌙 79 °F

    I've enjoyed Mayotte.

    Great people, great reefs, great weather, great doggos.

    We had a send off dinner of sorts. Yachties don't go too nuts with goodbyes as they're highly itinerant folks to begin with.

    I'll miss the waggly tails and French lessons. I might even find myself reminiscing and mentally editing out the painfully slow internet and fast mosquitos.

    Now it's off to new adventures and Karma reminds me:

    Wag More.
    Follow your whimsy. Embrace your joy.

    Be excited about what you're doing or do something else because life is both excruciatingly short and interminably long, depending entirely on our ability to enjoy it.
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  • Day 90

    Expectations and Warm Bread

    October 8, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Going to a bakery when you're hungry...
    The smell of bread fresh from the oven...
    I'll take three.

    Life is good.

    Simple Pleasures

    I'd do a shot of steam rising from the hot delicious loaf except it's in the high 70s (mid 20s) and 90% humid.... no steam can persist within this steamy weather.

    Still tastes amazing.

    Also I get the chance to see just how much my French has improved. I can now order food with minimal "what on earth are you saying?" Looks from the friendly gal behind the counter. A big step forward vs the 1st time I was here. When was that? Feels like yesterda-lastmonth.

    I'm glad that my meanders brought me to where I am. I certainly didn't expect to be here, scooting to a French bakery on an African isle. If someone had asked me even two months ago, there is zero % chance I'd have accurately described anything about today except: pet some dogs, eat some pain au chocolat, sip some coffee*. Life is fun that way.

    *Ok, also: I'll be wearing graying shorts and a blue shirt. Because _that_ happens dang near every day.
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  • Day 86

    Starter Saga (Conclusion?)

    October 4, 2023 in Mayotte ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Olivier has a buddy who is a Yanmar "expert" and has rebuilt the starter. After popping it open to take a look.... I am lukewarm about long-term expectations.

    He did replace a part.

    There are various parts that are still greatly exceeding spec for "worn the hell out"

    But, hey! it worked!! Twice!

    I'm glad to see Olivier is also shopping for a new starter and plans to keep this one as a spare.

    I can now R&R a Yanmar starter in about 5 minutes.
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