Norfolk Island Norfolk Island

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  • Dag 6

    Markets, golf and murder mystery dinner

    17. november 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    A fairly relaxed day. Went to the markets where I bought a timber pot stand/s in the shape of interlocking spirals. Did a bit of window shopping (pretty much all shops are closed on Sunday). Drove to an area of the island we had not already visited with the crystal pool.
    After lunch the boys went to play a game of golf while Heidi and I watched a movie (DVD). They enjoyed the golf although it was very windy.
    In the evening, we went to a Murder mystery dinner, we were all given a character, dressed up, and had to try and work out who committed the murder. I played the teenage daughter of an American captain of a whaling vessel who was engaged to the son of one of the local mutineers (this was Brad's character). A fun night trying to work out who the murderer was .... and the biggest surprise... it was me!
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  • Dag 7

    Summit Walk and Commandant’s Dinner

    31. juli 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Started the day with a walk from Mt Pitt to Mt Bates. I had originally planned to do this on Saturday but couldn’t find the start of the walk. Discovered today I did actually find the beginning of the walk, I just thought it had a different name. I thought I’d have great views but it was more glimpses as the vegetation was quite dense. Still a good walk though.

    I’ve finished all the food I had bought to cook at home so went into town for lunch. Cute little cafe with a lovely fish dish that had lemon tomato butter as a sauce. I don’t think I’ve ever had this sauce before, definitely never cooked it but will be making it at some point in the future.

    Wednesday seems to be early closing on Norfolk Island so instead of visiting some of the shops I went back to Kingston. I had intended to go through the Commissariat this afternoon but it was closed due to unexpected circumstances. So I went down to the cemetery. It’s one of the few places where convicts were buried alongside settlers and military. Lots of interesting headstones, the cemetery is still in use today.
    I also visited one half of the duplex on Quality Row. It’s basically a ruin that they’ve put a roof on and windows in. Like a lot of places here it wasn’t locked, just signs asking you to shut the door.
    I had another go at visiting the eastern side of the island, there aren’t many roads at there and a couple I found were really tracks.

    This evening I went to The Commandant’s Dinner. It was a dinner and show. Three commandants were present: Philip Ridley King who was the first commandant, James Morisett a very harsh commandant and Alexander Maconochie who was a reformer.
    It was really well done, if a little bawdy. Each of the actors joined us at the table throughout the meal. One mentioned when they started it was a lot more serious but they realised they needed to add some humour as the subject matter is quite grim.
    I sat with a nice group of people, we all swapped travel stories. Some had just arrived on the island, others like me are about to leave.
    The room we were in was the Sirius room and had some great paintings telling the Bounty story.
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  • Dag 5

    Cargo, Convicts and Culture

    29. juli 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Very wet and dreary today. 1mm of rain was forecast but we got much more than that. Apparently the rain usually falls overnight, not today. However it is July so I can’t expect a holiday without any rain.

    I went down to Kingston Pier to see what was happening with the unloading of the boat. There was quite a crowd. One couple who were on the orientation tour had timed their trip to coincide with the boat as they have a container shipping company in Brisbane and pack the containers for this boat.
    They had unloaded one vehicle when I got there, someone wearing a bio security jacket was going over the vehicle very carefully. I got to observe two more vehicles being unloaded. The barges don’t look big enough to hold a vehicle but they are. According to different people the unloading can take 3 hours, 3 days or 10 days depending on the cargo and the weather. The boat will apparently stay offshore for a couple of weeks as it’s not due in Australia until then and there is no charge to anchor off Norfolk Island but there is off Australia.

    I did a tour of the Commissariat and No 10 Quality Row. This was a tag a long tour where we drove, following the tour guide. I had parked further away as I’d been watching the unloading and by the time I got back to my car everyone else had disappeared. The guide had mentioned something about going the back way and I eventually found them all behind the commissariat which was the store house during the second convict settlement. There have been four main settlements on Norfolk Island: Polynesian, first settlement with colonists and convicts, second settlement as a penal colony and then the Pitcairners.
    There was information on all settlements but very much a focus on the penal settlement. As Norfolk Island was used as a deterrent for prisoners in other colonies it was an extremely harsh system.
    The 2nd and 3rd floors were converted into a church. Evensong is held there once a month but unfortunately not the weekend I’m here.
    Quality row is where the officers houses were and many of the houses still stand and are used by government workers today (the Pitcairners resided in them until about 1905 but they had fallen into disrepair as they didn’t know how to maintain them so the government took them back).
    I took a look at some of the other buildings in the area as there is so much information around all the buildings.

    I made my way back to Burnt Pine for a cultural tour with one of the tour companies. We went to a private home and did some weaving of a flax leaf while the host spoke of the Tahitian traditions that have been passed down. Her first language is Norfuk and she only learnt English when she started school.
    We made a simple decoration and I found the weaving relatively easy. Quarantine means we can’t bring them back to Australia although if we were here long enough for them to completely dry they would be allowed in.
    We finished up with an afternoon tea of local foods. Most people garden here as imported fruit and veg is very expensive. They also have chooks and pigs or cows. Dairy production more or less stopped with the introduction of pasteurisation laws as no one had the electricity to do it so the cows are all beef cattle. The butchers have their own meat rooms to process animals. We had pumpkin and rocket frittata and fish cakes served with avocado, beetroot relish and green tomato relish. The avocados have all cross pollinated and it’s estimated there are around 40 different varieties on the island.
    Finished up with a banana.
    A great day with a lot of variety.
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  • Dag 3

    Exploring the Island

    27. juli 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Started the day by visiting the Farmers/Produce market. It was very small but had a variety of fruit and veg as well as condiments. I picked up some homemade tomato sauce.
    An orientation tour was included with my accommodation. Run by Baunti tours our driver was a sixth generation descendant of Matthew Quintal, one of the mutineers.
    We concentrated on the east and south of the island from Cascade bay down to Kingston and long to the south west corner. The driver was very informative and I really enjoyed the tour.
    I learnt all kids of interesting information. I’d been marvelling at how small all the cars and trucks (I use that term loosely, they are 1/2 the size of a hilux) were. Turns out fuel is $2.88/L so nearly everyone has a fuel efficient vehicle. I did see at least one electric vehicle. There are a lot of solar panels on the island, they have a storage battery and can power the island for 7 hours a day on the stored power. There are plans to install another battery and run the island on the stored solar energy full time with the diesel generator as a back up.
    I’ve been keeping an eye on the number plates and so far the lowest number I’ve seen is 67.

    Back to the cottage for lunch. I’ve decided I’m technologically unintuitive. I’ve no oven but have a microwave/convection oven. Unfortunately the instructions are for a different model and despite having the convection oven for about 15 mins the sausages were still cold. So I gave up and cooked them in a frying pan. And set off the fire alarm. Fortunately there didn’t seem to be anyone else on the property as it was loud and the usual trick of waving a tea towel under the alarm did not work. However it did eventually turn off.

    I decided to explore the north east of the island this afternoon. I went up to Mt Pitt which had fantastic views of the entire island.
    This was followed by a maze. I managed the kids one okay but struggled with the adult one. I did eventually find the middle, twice! Then found my way out of a different entrance.
    From there I went to the bird breeding bounds lookout and Captain Cook lookout. Gorgeous views of the coastline and ocean.

    Back home for dinner then out for the tour I booked yesterday: 1856 the untold story. There was only 6 of us on the tour. We went down to Kingston and listened to a recording of the landing of the Pitcairners on Norfolk and their first few months and years. It was interesting, each tour guide so far has added their own bit about the Pitcairners. When I made the booking the agent said it focussed on the Pitcairners, not colonisation. I haven’t heard a lot about the time Norfolk was a penal colony but plan to go down to Kingston Monday and Tuesday.

    No firm plans for tomorrow. Church probably, I have 7 to choose from but will probably go to St Barnabas which is a church we visited this morning and Anglican.
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  • Dag 1

    Norfolk Island

    25. juli 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    After a long day of travel starting last night I got into Norfolk Island about 3pm.
    Getting here was interesting. As far as I can tell Norfolk Island is an Australian territory. I didn’t need my passport but was advised to bring it as my photo ID.
    The flight to the island left from the Brisbane International Airport and I had to go through immigration to get airside.
    The scanner didn’t accept my passport so I was directed to an officer. She was surprised to see someone going to Norfolk Island and mentioned they’d have to open the flight “already”. To be fair this was about 5:45am and the flight was scheduled for 11:40am.
    I had a long wait in the Qantas lounge with a bit of a doze.
    The flight here was around two hours. I sat next to a lady who had retired here from the Gold Coast. We had a nice chat about fostering cats and dogs and she told me a bit about her experience during covid in 2020 as they only moved here in 2019. They had around 150 cases towards the end of 2020.

    I had to complete an immigration card and show my passport again.
    I was met by the very friendly hire car representative.
    The numbers plates are just numbers. Apparently there are some single digit plates around.
    After literally driving across the road to my accommodation I went into the main st to get a SIM card as Australian carriers don’t work here, not even international roaming. Although I’d been told there were 4 places that sold the tourist sim there’s only one and it was closed.
    I picked up some groceries and after dropping them off went for a drive. Without the internet Google maps wasn’t terribly accurate but I found the ocean and some Norfolk Island pines.
    Decided to have dinner out in the hopes they’d have wifi. Which they do!
    Early to bed tonight I think. I’ve not had nearly enough sleep over the last 24 hours.
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  • Dag 6

    More Musuems and a Fish Fry

    30. juli 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Started the day with another museum tag a long tour. This time it was the Sirius Museum and the Pier Store Museum. The Sirius was one of the first fleet vessels and was wrecked off Norfolk Island in 1790. They’ve retrieved a lot from the wreckage, it just off the beach Kingston.
    The Pier Store Museum focuses on Norfolk Island after the arrival of the Pitcairners. I spent quite a while looking through a document that traced the descendants of the original mutineers. It was all very interesting.
    I also took a look at the presumed site of the Polynesian settlement. It’s estimated 1000 people lived at the settlement but they don’t know why they left.

    I came home via Rocky Pool Reserve. It road was quite rough and I decided not to follow it all the way to the end. It was very windy up there.

    Home for lunch and a some time to read my book before heading out for an early dinner. The fish fry was held on the west coast of the island and should have been accompanied by a gorgeous sunset but the clouds got in the way.
    The fish fry was a great experience. When I got my name ticked off the host insisted I sit with the only other woman on her own. I’m not sure that she was looking for company but neither of us really had much choice and it was nice to share the experience.

    The entertainment was great. The MC/singer was a Christian descendant who grew up on Pitcairn Island. He’s descended from one of the families who returned from Norfolk Island soon after the settlement there. He played a couple of songs in Pitkern/Norfuk and then lots of hits from the 50s and 60s. We also had 4 dancers from the Tahitian dance troupe perform for us.

    I got to sample some traditional foods: pilhi - a savoury banana slice; ana - sweet potato mash with coconut cream and curry powder; coconut bread; and a coconut pie for dessert. It was all nice although I confirmed I definitely prefer savoury coconut over sweet coconut.
    A thoroughly enjoyable evening.
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  • Dag 4

    Quiet Sunday

    28. juli 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    A quiet day today. I don’t always attend church when I’m away but when it works out I’m glad I did it. I had a choice of Anglican, Catholic, Seventh Day Adventist (although their service was yesterday), Living Faith Church (a Pentecostal church), Uniting Church and the Norfolk Island Community Church.
    Generally when I travel and there’s a choice I choose an Anglican service. The Anglican services here are held at the St Barnabas Chapel which we visited yesterday. It’s a beautiful stone church that was built for the Micronesian Mission in the island and left behind when the mission left the island.
    It was a very different service to what I am used to. We started with a prayer the last mutineer John Adams, wrote. There was only an organist to accompany the hymns and we used hymn books. There were about 40 people in attendance and I was made to feel welcome.
    I did overhear a conversation in Norfuk, the language of the Pitcairners. Until today I’d only heard a few words.

    I then went down to the Botanical Gardens and did several of the walks there. The gardens were started to grow some of the plants/trees that were endemic to the island and in danger of extinction due to the clearing of land.
    It was a cool day anyway and quite cold in the gardens.

    From there I went down to the Cascade Pier. There are two piers on the island, Cascade is on the east side, Kingston on the south. The weather and tides dictate which pier is used. It was high tide when I was down there and quite rough.

    Sometimes I find the journey is more interesting than the destination and that was the case with the Cockpit Waterfall. It was a nice drive along Prince Philip Dr but I realised I had gone past where the fall should have been with no sign of the falls. I’d been using a paper map as I didn’t seem to have an internet connection after losing it at the botanical garden and the map didn’t have a definite road to the falls. I backtracked a bit and took a very minor road that wasn’t on the map to end up in a paddock. A short walk led me to the falls and they were underwhelming to say the least. Apparently they are better after rain.
    Still it was a nice drive and walk.

    From there I explored a few different roads and then went down to Kingston pier. One of the tour drivers yesterday had said the supply boat was due today. They thought it would come to Cascade Pier but it was anchored off Kingston Pier. It’s apparently the MV Norfolk and is due tomorrow. The ship can’t come to the pier, everything is loaded onto barges and brought to the pier. There was nothing happening today and as the due date is tomorrow I’m thinking it will be unloaded then. Tomorrow’s plan is to explore Kingston so hopefully I’ll see something.

    Home then for a very late lunch and then sat down to catch up with the Olympics, read my book and have a nap.
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  • Dag 2

    Bounty and a Boat Tour

    26. juli 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I was exhausted last night and slept 12 hours. Felt much more refreshed this morning.
    First port of call was the tourist centre to get a SIM card. From there I walked up the main stop in Burnt Pine, which despite Kingston being the capital, appears to be the main settlement. Lots of interesting little shops to look in.
    The place I’ve booked most of my tours through ask that you check in with them when you arrive. I thought that that one of the reasons may have been to sell more tours. I was right and they were successful. I added a night tour of Kingston for tomorrow night.
    I usually like doing my own thing but watching all my friend Cathrine did while on a bus tour in Europe inspired me to book these tours or experiences. I’ve got at least one every day except Sunday and Wednesday and some days have two.

    I had a quick lunch in town and then went to the Fletcher’s Mutiny Cyclorama. No photos from inside as we were requested not to take any. It was great, the artists put in a lot of detail. It told the story of The Bounty from the UK through to Tahiti, the Mutiny and Pitcairn Island. It was very informative and well done. I did learn the purpose of the Bounty’s trip was to source breadfruit plants which were to be planted in the Caribbean and used as a cheap food source for slaves.
    From there I went down to Emily Bay for a glass bottom boat experience. I got there early and had a walk along the beach which was gorgeous.
    The tour operator is a seventh generation descendant of Fletchers Christian and he was very well informed and had a lovely manner. Saw lots of coral and various species of wrasse. I’m sure there were other species but wrasse dominated.
    As we got back to the beach about 3:30pm people were coming down to swim. It was quite cool but the water temperature is about 20 degrees year round.
    It started to rain so I cut my explorations of the head out past the lone pine short.
    Back to my cottage to read my book before coming out for tea. I always try and have one nice dinner when I travel and tonight is it. I’m at The Homestead which have a homemade charcoal grill out the back.
    The drive out was a bit dicey and I’m still trying to work out how to swap from high to low beam when I meet an oncoming car. Should be simple but it seems to go from high beam to low beam and then back to high beam in the one motion. I spent quite a bit of time last night trying to figure out how to turn the lights on in the first place. I eventually found the dial on the dash.
    Dinner was delicious and I’m looking forward to another early night as I’ve a tour at 8:30am.
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  • Dag 2

    Life on The Island

    9. februar, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    Well so far so good. A few new spieces and lovely company.
    Paul & Kate have been my chauffeurs. We went to the Botanic Gardens (most of it was closed for repairs) got the Gerygone & Slender-billed White-eye. Went to the National Park & nearly wore ourselves out. The tracks are very hilly! Got the NI Robin, & the Black-winged Peterals.
    The King Quails are around, so not impossible to find.
    Went on a tour this morning. It wasn't a good as I had hoped. The guide was excellent with the flora & fauna. Saw another little Tern sitting on a branch.
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  • Dag 4

    Museum visit part 1

    15. november 2024, Norfolk Island ⋅ 🌙 22 °C

    We purchased a museum pass which gave us unlimited access to 4 museums plus 2 tag along tours which was a guide taking us through 2 of the museums, giving us an overview before the museums opened at 11am. The Kingston area is known as the capital of Norfolk Island but the main business and shopping area is in Burnt Pine. Kingston is where the museums are as it was the original settlement was. Today we visited the Commissariat (government store) and 9 Quality Row (period house of the time). Interesting stories. We will join another tour tomorrow morning for the other museums.
    After our museum visits we headed down the road to bloody bridge. The story goes that while the convicts were building the bridge, they killed the guard and buried him in the bridge. His body was discovered because blood was oozing out between the stones. This may or may not have happened, but it makes a good story anyway.
    We wandered through the cemetery - the oldest headstone from 1798. As mentioned before, burials are free on Norfolk Island.
    As it was a nice day, we headed up to Mt Pitt for some fantastic views of the island and finished the day with a swim in Emily Bay - very safe, very clear water.
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