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  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    2
    7212
    Dag 73

    Actividades 3

    16 augustus 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    I decided to bus/walk to Ranch Primicio, a giant tortoise reserve on private land, to save the taxi fare. Over 2 hours later, I arrived having wished I had spent the $15 on a taxi. I walked through some lava tunnels which were quietly spectacular. Big, solid, beautiful, echo-y, cool, and dark with water droplets coming through the cracks. Lava tunnels are where the surface lava in an eruption cools and solidifies in contact with the air, whilst the molten lava continues to flow beneath. Eventually the molten lava flows away, leaving these empty cave-like tunnels. I had a little sing to test the echos as I was the only one there. The giant tortoises living their best lives on the reserve were either eating, sleeping or laying in mud to warm up or cool down, I can't remember which!! They were majestic but not the most good looking of animals, it has to be said!

    Las Grietas is a strip of sea water in a narrow space created when 2 tectonic plates separated, quite a while ago. Because of all the rubble below the sea level, no large marine life lives there... Just fish. Being there without the crowds, is like being in an underwater adventure movie.

    I visited some more lava tunnels, los Túneles de Bellavista 1km long. I walked there too and followed a group of tourists on mountain bikes. Luckily I asked one slow coach where they were going. But it was a salt mine which didn't float my boat, nor was it where I was going and so I stopped following them. Smart, you are thinking. A random horse was galloping down the road alone. I asked the workmen in the street if that was normal, they said yes. I said, but it's dangerous....cars, roads, accidents. They agreed it was dangerous and laughed. I do wander what gets lost in translation, sometimes.

    I went to Los Gemelos, two giant sink holes formed ages ago (probably millions of years) .... As I understand it, there was a hot spot under the lava tunnels which destabilised the structure and they collapsed. In and around this geological feature, is an extensive and rare forest of scalasia trees, covered in wispy, moss..... Which I think is not a good thing. But maybe it is. Do you get a picture of how I don't do my research thoroughly, or indeed, at all?

    Another day boat trip was to Isla Pinzon. Two snorkeling spots where I saw sting rays, a white tip shark, barracuda, trumpet fish, parrot fish too name but a few. Visibility was amazing here and it felt like I was swimming in an aquarium. We had a fair few playful sea lions who wanted to swim amongst us and as long as we avoided the bulls, it's safe and fun. (No touching of course) .    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    1113
    Dag 71

    Actividades 2

    14 augustus 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Tortuga Bay is stunningly beautiful with white sand and turquoise water. The marine iguanas do a great job of laying around doing a lot of nothing. I went with Gloria and Johanna and we had a great time splashing around like sea lions.

    Garrapatera Beach, also gorgeous. A long drive there through the Highlands and lowlands. That's where the beauty ended. It was really rocky and both Gloria and I got injured and bitten by flies. Gloria also got a wasp sting because she was flailing her arms around, like Nick Hawkesby does around any wasp he sees. Sorry, I meant Frank Spencer ..... Same difference....:-)

    A day boat trip to Isla Floreana started off with severe sea sickness on the 2 hour bumpy boat ride over there. But it was worth it as the beaches were unspoilt and the
    snorkeling was good with great visibility for the tropical fish and sea turtles. The second beach was a volcanic beach with black sand and strong current, so I looked like a sea lion myself thrown about in the waves, wearing my wetsuit. From the shore, we watched a mother and youngster humpback whale play in the sea.

    We hiked to the Highlands which looked similar, but more wild to the area around the dog sanctuary on Santa Cruz. This island was used by pirates for its fresh water supply and turtle meat - which is why turtles were extinct here at one point. We saw the pirates hideaway caves, carved out of the lava rock, including fire ovens! We visited a semi-wild tortoise sanctuary where they get fed 3 times a week and also fend for themselves. They are trying to help the population along after the pirates decimated the numbers.The return bumpy boat ride was somewhat easier and we were escorted by a small pod of dolphins.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    2
    Dag 70

    Actividades

    13 augustus 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    I landed over a month ago on Santa Cruz island, also known as Indefatigable (you can't get tired of it). It's the most populated and most developed island.... And therefore not quite as pretty and charming but with more action.

    My spare time activities have included:

    The Charles Darwin Research Station which was like a science museum about the history, evolution and current protective projects in place. The guided tour around the captive breeding program for giant tortoises was engaging and culminated in a visit to Lonesome George - the last giant tortoise (of his breed) on this island. Lonesome George lived alone for many years and was given the nickname as a result after being categorised as the loneliest animal in the planet. I did wonder why he was kept separate from the other tortoises who now live here. Turns out, he died sometime back, and we were visiting an embalmed chap.

    Two small, local beaches (Estación and Rapatora afford easy, access snorkeling with a fair show of tropical fish. Playa los Perros is a pretty beach, but like most, you can't swim there. Playa de los Alemanes, accessible by water taxi is idyllic and has one calm, luxury hotel and spa with stray ducks drinking from and swimming in the pool. It's just enough away from all the town bustle, so you feel like you are on holiday. Whilst there are sea lions, crabs, iguanas, turtles and tropical fish everywhere, I did spot some sharks in this beach whilst alone and it's exciting, exhilarating and little bit scary all at the same time.

    I have mentioned my admiration and respect for Gloria and that was before knowing she has survived a tsunami, 2 volcanic eruptions - one whilst pregnant, another with a 5 year old and lost her first born son at age 17. After all that, she takes life in her stride, can handle anything, values the time with her children over everything and is so kind and positive. Well, I think she is, my Spanish still a bit crap to be sure 😃    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    11
    Dag 69

    Where has the time gone?

    12 augustus 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    And in a blink of an eye, I have gone from arriving and wondering WTF I had got myself into to actually saying farewell to a group of people who have been my family for 6 weeks. I am still processing how I feel about that especially because the chance of me ever seeing them again is miniscule. This last week will be strange as I play out my daily role as if I am not going to disappear out of their lives on Friday early morning.

    We had a birthday party for Gloria which was really wholesome and fun, food, music, dogs and cards, although I did leave when the booze came out. Last time I drank it here, I got a hangover whilst still drinking. God knows what it is, but it's strong.

    I have managed to injure my foot on a rock so currently limping with a swollen, purple toe that won't bend. (Update: it's not fractured/broken but just can't use my flippers for now).

    One evening, while strolling with yet another solo traveller I met online (Vanessa), just happened across a group of feeding black tip sharks, with the odd playful sea lion joining in. Watched for about half an hour, mesmerised and reminded that I am somewhere special. As I went to buy some eggs on the way home, I discovered there are no more eggs for sale on the island, until the next boat delivery, which no-one knows when it is.

    It's part of the general election here, the first round, and it's interesting how engaged the public is, far from voter apathy. Gloria and her family are not voting because they are registered on the mainland and it costs $50 per person to get their ID cards updated. Disenfranchised due to poverty; another reminder how lucky we are in the UK to have the right to vote according to our conscience, without cost (or fear of harm).

    Drinking water comes from plastic bottles, shipped in from the mainland, and delivered to your door if the delivery man sees your empty bottles in front of your house. We often run out of water, and drink from the tap, boiling it first. This week, Gloria had cause to look into the giant water tank, to discover that, as it was not covered, it was a dark colour, with algae, moss, mosquitoes, cockroaches and dead rats floating around. She immediately said no more consumption from the tap. Having run out of drinking water, and the delivery man nowhere to be seen, we had 24 hours without drinking water, luckily the dairy farmer next door supplied us with milk to stay hydrated. Gloria then said she had to clean and drain the tank and would I help. Of course, I said....soon to back track when I realised she meant standing in that water with no waterproofs/skin protection. I got inside and scrubbed the walls from the safety of a step ladder. I still got splashed and covered in this horrible liquid (THAT WE HAD BEEN DRINKING!!!) and when it went in my eye, I called it quits. Having drained the tank, Gloria then realises we have got no water to the house for showers, toilets, hand washing, dogs etc ooops!! This house is supplied solely by train water, there is no external plumbing. Having decided that we couldn't wait for rain to fill up the tank, the management agreed it would pay for a tank load of water only to discover, there are no large quantities of water on the island until it is delivered from the mainland by boat!

    Rats are one of the invasive species brought by man to the Galápagos which threaten the survival and thrival of many species of plants and animals. So, they are everywhere. I actually watched this rat about twice the size of a squirrel casually eat from one of our dog food troughs. From a distance, I was able to admire it's audacity and felt let down by the pit bull who was clearly off duty.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    12
    Dag 64

    Bedroom pets update:

    7 augustus 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    I am cohabiting with my bedbugs. My cleaning effort dampened their numbers but not eliminated, so nights are still itchy. They are now the least of my problems :-)

    The dogs love to chase rats (which are an invasive species, brought here by humans, and one of the biggest threats to wildlife in the Galápagos). They chase, bark, then they all start barking through excitement. This is a regular thing about 4am. I usually have to get out of bed and throw water at them to shut them up. One morning, as I returned to bed, I dozed and dreamt that the rats invaded my room and jumped on my bed. When I awoke from the nightmare, I thought and later said, I hope it's just a nightmare and not a premonition

    However, I now realise I am witch as that very night, I had 4 rats in my bedroom one of which landed on my bed while I was on it. Currently sleeping with the light on.

     2 days later, my BED was visited by a large, flying cockroach, similar to the one in my food cupboard. I have a phobia of cockroaches but the was no-one to help me in the middle of the night, and I successfully despatched it to cockroach heaven.

    I have tried to use the house dogs to catch the rats but ours are lazy. Only the refuge dogs chase rats, it appears.

    Apparently, the light is attracting them. So, light on or off, I can't win. It's lights on for me, so I can see the enemy.

    I have invited couple of dogs to my room. The Schizophrenic self-harmer and the little underdog who gets picked on by the big boys. Hygiene will be resumed at some future date.

    BUT staying here with this lovely family is a really valuable and cherished experience. They love each other, laugh together and are so caring it's really a privilege to witness it.... And their overall positive attitude to life, despite the financial challenges.

    They have embraced me wholeheartedly, patiently and even laugh at my jokes.    Meer informatie

    Zie vertaling
  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    21
    Dag 48

    Life of a volunteer

    22 juli 2023, Ecuador

    I am in my third week, volunteering at the dog rescue and there is a gentle flow and structure to the days and weeks. Usually, the agreement is 4-6 hours work in exchange for 3 meals a day and accommodation, including laundry. Here, food is not included and the washing machine is broken.

    I am woken up by dogs from 6.30am onwards and start at 8am. My hours can be changed at short notice. Most days, after work, I hang with the dogs or go to the town for shopping, laundry or see a friend for dinner.

    I was invited to a birthday party the first weekend which involved hanging around all day, not knowing what was happening. All the guests had to go for food shopping in the afternoon and cook for the party in the evening. Eventually the party started and involved cocktails, dancing and tortoises - it was held at a tortoise sanctuary. I got a taxi back to the refuge on my own and no-one answered the gate, so I scaled the 12 foot fence, like a Ninja, in the pitch black without incident or injury.

    At the party, I met a German girl called Joanna who was volunteering there and we hit it off. For the next 2 weeks we socialised a bit which would make a nice change from the mud and dirt of the dogs. We had some fantastic, fresh empanadas at a street fiesta one eve, watched a beach sunset with the sea lions and had a drink for her birthday.

    I do a fair bit of hand washing but when I do go to the laundromat, I apologise in advance for the stinky/filthy clothes. You can't use the machines yourself, it is a service.

    I like being the only volunteer as I have my own room but I keep getting 'threatened' by new people coming. Also, the boss doesn't l want volunteers to use the warm shower, just cold water. That would be my boundary and trigger an early departure, not just because of the fact I hate cold water, but also the principle of denying access (unnecessarily) especially considering the type of dirty work we do.

    I do have bed bugs and have been unable to wash the mattress because it won't dry here as it's so damp. I think I would rather have fleas! Nights are quite itchy!

    I have a cockroach in my kitchen cupboard. I knock on the cupboard door and wait 3 seconds for him/her/they 😄 to run off to the adjacent cupboard so I can access my food in peace. He is a big, black, hairy one and there is no way I can attempt to kill him - fear in case I miss and he goes airborne.

    The electricity situation is precarious at best, and recently, the workmen exposing our spaghetti junction household wires to the rain made me slightly nervous about the safety element. Although my friend, Sue, in the UK reassured me you can't die from 110Volts. I like my reassurance in the form of waterproof casing :-)

    I haven't been out sightseeing that much but will make sure I do everything I want to before I leave.

    Gloria is quite chilled with me, her boys are polite but understandably don't bother with me too much and all-in-all, I am quite present and happy to be here for the time being.    Meer informatie

    Zie vertaling
  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    2112111
    Dag 45

    Santa Cruz - an abrupt change of scenery

    19 juli 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    'Baptism of fire' is the expression I feel suits this week the best.... which is also the reason I have taken this long to update you. I needed to process my situation.

    After the gentle, touristic introduction to Galapagos on San Cristobal island, I have come to Santa Cruz, far away from the tourists, living with the locals in poor conditions, with daily damp/wetness.... wondering why...
    The only thing I know at the moment is my name. Everything else is guesswork.

    I arrived at the ferry port expecting to be collected by my host. My new phone rang for the first time and I answered it to a jibber/jabber of Spanish. Turns out it was a taxi driver, not prepared for a Turki who definitely can't speak a word of Spanish under pressure. Let's just say, I am not sure who stressed each other out the most. They speak with a different accent here, as well. I then took a bus, in the dark (6.30pm) not knowing where to get off. By fluke, a neighbour was on the bus and assisted. At the dog refuge, I was given a warm welcome by my host family. I didn't know I would be staying with a host family (which is something I generally try to avoid as I value my own space). They are warm and friendly and patient but a couple of hours of Spanish chatter fried my brain. I went to my room laughing at how out of my depth and comfort zone I am. I would say I am operating at 10% Spanish and 90% body language.

    The refuge is in the Highlands which has a distinct (wet) climate from the coast, which is enviably warm and sunny.

    A leisurely approach to hygiene and health and safety is my tactful description of the living conditions and I am doing the best I can, on both those fronts, to maintain some standards... And not get avoidably sick or injured.

    My host Gloria is 45 and we get on really well. Her 2 boys live in the house and her daughter/granddaughter close enough to come over daily. They are a lovely, close family who talk and laugh a lot despite the hardships. I have been to the daughter and cousin's house, where I was randomly gifted popcorn and a coconut.

    Milk comes from a local cow but otherwise there is nothing nearby. I can get a bus to town, 5 run a day, God knows when :-) ..... Not everything is on Google, apparently :-)

    Wild giant turtles roam but we need to keep them out, away from the dogs who bark at anything, at any time but most especially at night!!!    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    1
    15
    Dag 45

    This post is just about dogs

    19 juli 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    So, of course, I settled in pretty quickly. No-one can understand a word I say but who cares, I am good with the dogs and not a nuisance. Actually, I am quite relaxed here, despite the dodgy electrics, cold showers and cockroaches.

    The dog refuge is called Juanchito Al Rescate. The dogs have either been abandoned or mistreated but without exception they all just want affection and attention. (Which means I am covered in scratches as they jump up with their long claws).

    There are only 18 dogs which don't take long to feed, clean and cuddle in the morning. There is one special needs dog that needs constant attention. He has a neurological disorder and he barks at invisible things then starts self harming, having bitten down his paws and tail. We have a couple of grumpy, smelly old farts, living in the house because they have cancer. They are the most likely biters - update one did bite the 2 year old child today. We have a Pitbull who is dangerous to other dogs, some terriers, a lot of cross-breeds, a fat dumpling, a youngster who has adopted me and batters any dog who gets in between us :-)

    There is quite a bit of DIY needed as the shelter is being built from scratch using recycled materials. Gloria is a strong, no-nonsense, just-get-it-done type of woman. She laughs at me because I wear gloves to hold up rusty aluminium sheeting and drag the giant poo bags around.

    Due to El Niño season, it is raining, all day, every day, which makes some outdoor work challenging. It's so damp, it's impossible to dry anything and clothes/bedding etc all smells damp all the time. I smell like the dogs!

    I joined in with an Adoption fair where we paraded 11 dogs on a street fiesta to try and get them adopted. 2 were :-). We drove there in a pickup truck ...1 driver, 1 with a toddler sucking on her breast, and another with hand injuries so he can't hold anything... And Gloria and I....4 puppies in a box....and 7 over excited, over stimulated, scared dogs....trying to not let them kill each other or jump out the truck for the half hour journey. Then it started raining. Mayhem. Carnage. I laughed because I wasn't responsible.

    We had washed the dogs earlier in the day; for some it was their first ever bath. One managed to escape us, then break out of the secure (!!) garden, into the neighbours garden with a load of loose chickens. I am screaming Ayuda, Ayuda (help).... Not even for the first or last time that day.

    I walk the dogs as well although it is only up and down the Santa Cruz Highway because there is nowhere else we can get to without our own vehicle. Apart from the odd giant tortoise lounging around, we don't see much but it's exercise, lead walking practice and a bit of variety. Interesting how some of the lairy dogs can be so timid outside. To be fair, in the pouring rain, I am not sure how much they are enjoying it. However, I feel very virtuous as I convince myself it's good for them!

    There is a lot of barking as you can imagine, normal communication... Plus the extra you get in a kennel environment where one barks and they all start, even though they don't know why. We got building work on two sides at the moment so it's pretty much non stop. One of my jobs is to stop them from excessive barking. However, they all start when they see or hear me.... So that is a big, fat fail on my part, so far.

    I spend my free time just hanging with the dogs. What's not to love.    Meer informatie

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  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    1
    11211
    Dag 42

    San Cristobal - still here

    16 juli 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    It's hard being me :-)

    Another freebie beach, another arduous hike, to be met with another practically deserted (stunning) beach - Playa Baquerizo. I saw frigate birds here, locally known as scissors ✂️ birds because their tails look like opening/closing scissors as they fly. I swam amongst a shoal of giant rainbow/unicorn coloured fish with an inner big grin. (If I smile, water seeps into my mask).

    Today is National Ice Cream Day. I kid you not. But, to be fair, no one here could consume more ice cream than they usually do. I wouldn't be surprised if it featured on its own line in the GDP summary (Gross Domestic Product).

    I ventured out onto the once daily public bus on a Sunday to the other side of the island. Beach. Check. Walk. Check. Man-made turtle breeding centre...check. Not really required anymore because they did such a great job of reviving the turtle population in the wild. It was after lunch, so the turtles were napping and hard to spot. Finally, got to El Junco, a freshwater lagoon in a volcano crater. It had been raining and a fog descended. Visibility was maximum 10 metres. Climbed to top of volcano and saw nothing. Doesn't matter because I have seen a photo and know what it looks like :-)

    One man joked his wife could push him off the top and inherit the life insurance. I think she was considering it.

    There are tsunami escape routes signposted everywhere. Not unique, of course, but very different to signage in Folkestone and Plymouth :-)

    Apparently, you can't own a car here unless it is a taxi or for work (eg the fishermen have vehicles). People use mopeds a lot.

    Cute: Postbox holds postcards written by tourists, addressed without stamps. The idea is other tourists take the cards they can post or hand deliver in their own county. I looked through but decided against it as I won't be in England for a while.

    My last night here, I am sitting at a cafe and a girl I met in Cuenca recognised me. My Prisoner Cell Block H hair style still making me instantly recognisable. We had a good chat for a couple of hours which was nice after a few days of no company.

    Off on the notorious Seasick Ferry tomorrow to Santa Cruz Island, to be collected by the animal rescue manager, ready to start work on Tuesday morning. Wish me luck, with my Spanish, I'm gonna need it.    Meer informatie

    Zie vertaling
  • ReizigerTurtles and cowboys
    2
    Dag 40

    San Cristobal where sea lions rule

    14 juli 2023, Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The Galápagos Islands are known to be expensive; from getting here, accommodation, food and tours. Mainly tours. As 95% is National Park and no-one is allowed in the National Park without a Government-trained guide, it makes sense that it's expensive.

    Observation 1) The National Park does an amazing job at protecting its spaces from tourists. 2) I have no idea where all the tourist money is going. When you enter, each adult paid $100 fee to the National Park. Excellent. But the cost of the tours is crazy. Someone is getting rich but the local people don't appear to be.
    And the cost of food is beyond belief...£4 for a tin of tuna. £1.75 for 1 bread roll. They don't even bother to put prices on items. Ha ha Some rude person once (a long time ago) said to me, If you have to ask the price, you can't afford it. He may have a point!

    So, I need to find the balance between not spending excessively and not being so cautious with money, that I leave with regrets. After all, in all likelihood, I won't return.

    Luckily, because I am going to be here for 2 months, I don't have to rush such decisions. So, for this first week on San Cristobal Island, I did one tour and the rest of the time found the free places I could go.

    I started on a high with a tour to Kicker Rock aka the Sleeping Lion. If you have a vivid imagination but overall it looks like a giant rock sticking out of the sea. 250ft high and another 250ft below the water mark.

    We arrived on Playa Cerro Brujo and it felt like I had landed in Paradise, with more sea lions, black crabs, blue footed boobies, marine iguanas and one random Pelican who made a very big splash, dive bombing very close to me.

    On the tour boat, I teamed up with 2 American ladies, and we snorkeled together, seeing about 100 sea turtles and, of course, lots of tropical fish which can get very attractive and very big. I did see one black tip shark no more than 2 metres long which swam below me - I could see it clearly but it went a little too fast for me to get scared.

    The next few days have been local beaches, all which require a little trek to get to. Playa Mann, aka sunset beach, with even more chilled out sea lions and Darwin's finches. Later in the day, Playa Carola for less crowded action. Now the further the walk to get to a beach, the more isolated :-)

    So, one finch made it here from God knows where. Over time, it morphed into 13 different species, with different diets depending on what was available and different beaks, depending on the diet.

    Watching the sea lions bed down in the sunset is hilarious. They vye for their places, babies look for the right mamas, the bulls roar at the pesky babies who climb across them.

    The sea at La Loberia beach was quite rough but went in anyway, staying fairly shallow (being really conscious that there is no-one to report me missing!). I had 3 snorkeling sessions because... Well why not? I remember the last time I snorkeled years ago, thinking that this really is me. And that feeling was back. I kept bumping into sea lions and doing an about turn, quick smart, after my first guide warned us they were unpredictable. I saw more sea turtles which surprised me as I was so shallow, probably maximum 3-4 meters depth.

    I did a hike across lava rock in sandals. I moved across sideways, on all fours, 🦀 crab like, as I was terrified to slip. Saw many land iguanas basking on the rocks.

    Friday night is street fiesta night; music, dancing, street stalls - the locals come out to play and the street population more than doubles. Pretty sure everyone is happy to be here.    Meer informatie

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