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  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    2
    4372241125
    Day 37

    Galápagos Baby

    July 11, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The Galápagos islands are known to be expensive. Most tourists stay 5, 7 or 10 days. Volunteering is permitted but my host for the dog rescue wouldn't let me declare I would be helping her. (I don't know why). So, I came up with a story to explain my 60 day trip which surely any half-arsed Immigration officer would ask. In Spanish, I memorised mending a broken heart, relaxing in nature and writing a book. My immigration control lady was gossiping so much with her colleague that she wasn't even a quarter-arsed and waved me through with a mere raised eyebrow.

    Wake up on time. Check.
    Get taxi to airport without being robbed. Check.
    Pass immigration control. Check.
    Drop off oversized baggage without being charged extra. Check.
    Sitting in cafe with an hour to spare, relaxed. Check.

    Then I heard my name being called over the tannoy. Damn, I thought, Miss Slackass's boss has double checked and determined I need further investigation. How do I say 'broken heart' again??

    But no, instead I was escorted for a 'random' baggage extra security check in the bowels of the airport before the bags are actually loaded into the plane. Except it wasn't random. They had clocked my aerosols in my bag, deodorant, mosquito and cockroach spray. I always fly with these. I have never heard of someone's deodorants getting confiscated. I explained this to them in now panicked and broken Spanglish. Then he got a bit of paper out and I shut up thinking I was about to get fined. Luckily, just confiscated, no fine.

    In San Cristobal island (Galapagos, Baby!) baggage handlers unloaded the luggage and sent sniffer dogs around it all in front of us, before letting us get hold of our bags. The dog did not look particularly focused on the task which was quite amusing.

    I walked from the airport to my Airbnb accommodation The third Ecuadorian airport that is in walking distance to towns. My room is above a juice bar run by a nice couple who play the TV from 7am to 10pm very, very loudly. I went for a stroll and in less that 4 minutes I saw sea lions, lava lizards, jumbo dragonflies and red crabs called Sally Go Lightly.

    The little town, Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, is the capital of the Galápagos Islands (which are part of Ecuador). It is clean, pretty, calm, safe and looks like a lot of coastal Mediterranean holiday spots, with a promenade, bars and cafes etc. It's hot and humid.

    Beyond the chatter of voices, music from the bar, sound of the waves is the constant, smile-inducing sound of sea lions talking to each other.

    I went on to a little beach with sea lions on; avoiding them (2: meter rule), I almost tripped on a baby seal. Apparently, the locals keep clear of sea lions as they can be unpredictable. Only the tourists get close enough to be hurt :-)

    I saw a young boy about 6 years old, in his own, with a 10 inch fat, orange fish in his hands. Quite an intricate fish with fancy gills and bits coming out of its head.
    Is it real? Yes, he said.
    Is it dead? Yes
    What are you going to do with it? Cook it for dinner, of course! Dummy!

    He didn't say 'dummy' but pretty sure that's what he was thinking.    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    2
    Day 34

    Adios Cuenca :-(

    July 8, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    I am not really a museum person but Mueseo Pumapungo was highly rated, so off I went, more to tick it off the list. But I was not expecting a large, expanse of very well maintained Inca ruins and a random exotic bird collection. A nice surprise. Inside the museum, which was adjacent to the Central Bank of Ecuador, was a whole floor dedicated to the history of money. There were also 3D model displays of indigenous people and their tribal practices. Good for people like myself who don't want to just look at old pottery or read too much!

    On the way back, I bumped into a Gay Pride procession, which was colourful, lively and well supported. I had a little cry thinking about how far we (the world) have come in terms of acceptance and respect of LGBTQ+ rights....(not everywhere, obvs).

    Another day, I donned my Lycra went in search of free bikes to rent, along the River Tomebamba cycle path. As I couldn't find the free bikes (out-of-date information, thank you Google)....I went for a walk and discovered Paradise Park with boating lake, pedalos, go-karting (pedal power) and outdoor gym equipment. Now, I could have been in the UK. Cuenca had a lot of retired Americans and expat remote workers which is partly why it is so expensive, well maintained and modern.

    Kimberly and I went to a famous chocolate makers cafe, to write our blogs. Three hours later, not a word was written as we talked so much. I was a bit jealous that she has no return ticket so can stay as long as she likes, without having to fit things into a time framework.

    We had another nightly city stroll for more Nutella ice cream....I have eaten more ice cream in the last few weeks than I have in the last 10 years. It would be rude not to.

    My last night in Cuenca was chilling with a group of randoms (watching Japanese reality TV!!!) - we all enjoyed each others' company for a few days but likely will never see each other again.

    I packed up for Guayaquil, my last stop to get the flight to Galapagos. Guayaquil has a dangerous reputation, for general crime and hang crime. I decided to go to a hostel close to the airport and stay indoors. I got nervous because recently a cab driver robbed his own tourist passenger from the same place I was going. My extra anxiety is that I am carrying a lot of cash as in Galapagos there are only a few ATMs which charge a lot and sometimes don't even work. Most places don't accept card payment, and those that do, have extortionate fees. Luckily, my taxi driver didn't rob me so I tipped him generously by way of a thank you (for not robbing me).    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    2
    Day 32

    Cuenca continued

    July 6, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After 2 days spoilt in an empty dorm room, I asked if I could stay on for a discount. No. So I moved to an 8 bed mixed dormitory. Cue no sleep. The beds are comfy, but everything makes a noise, late arrivals, snoring, party animals and early risers. But a good old bunch and we got along so well, easily my best dormitory experience ever.

    I was going to the Mirador de Turi, which is a high up viewpoint to see the city -best done at night because of the lights. A 20 year old Costa Rican girl asked to join me. I am the same age as her Mum :-) my plan was to walk there 1 hour, and taxi back in the dark. We stolled along, talking in English, Spanish and French. The hilarious thing was we had to climb up the hill, and this did her in. To return, we had to walk to a safe place to get a taxi. But she refused to walk and hailed a taxi on a busy 50 mile an hour road. One did stop and I practically flew through the window to get in quickly. Note to self: I avoided doing anything involving walking with her again.

    The quiet hostel overnight filled up, and we were all socialising in the common area. I had some serious chats with young men, wise beyond their years and was, the centre of attention that night, with funny stories and one liners. It felt really good, like a younger version of myself was back at the helm.

    Not everyone is looking term backpacking, there are some professionals who are making the most of their annual leave allowance. To be identified by those with bigger budgets and nicer clothes :-)

    I convinced Kimberly and Mike to come to a thermal spa with me, Piedra del Agua on the outskirts of town. There were outdoor pools of different temperatures, then we were guided through a circuit of a red mud bath, a blue mud bath, a very hot pool and freezing one (obviously I didn't bother with that one!) In an underground cave, then a Cajon bath (steam box)* Photo is not us.... Followed by a much needed nap on a sun lounger. Needless to say, we enjoyed it immensely but didn't have our phones so no evidence of how great we looked covered in mud.    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    13221
    Day 29

    Welcome to Cuenca

    July 3, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Some of you may have appreciated the break from my relentless posts; others checked in to ask why the time gap. Ha ha simply because I have been in the beautiful city of Cuenca having a wonderful time. The combination of the city's beauty, the quality of the hostel, interesting activities and entertaining backpackers made this my best week yet.

    I checked into a hostel recommended for solo female travellers due to its safety. I immediately bumped into Firenza, who I met in Baños. She was just leaving but connected me with her room mate, Saba, who wanted to go hiking the next day.

    The Guillerminas Boutique hostel was by the famous cathedral Iglesia del Sagrario and Parque Calderón. The magnificent domes are lit up blue at night and the park is alive with streetmusic, dancing, people strolling with ice cream, restaurants and bars.

    I instantly fell in love with this place. And felt so safe too. There are four different types of police here, and you can't walk more than 5 minutes without seeing armed police or guards. It's reassuring. And it is in fact safe because of that visible police presence.

    The hostel provided breakfast which was probably one of the nicest meals I have had since I arrived in Ecuador and it made the slightly higher price of the room worth every penny.... Or cent.

    Saba, mysel plus one other girl set off to hike in the Cajas National Park. I informed and warned them repeatedly how slow I was going downhill. Can you see where this is going....? It's a stunning landscape and the girls be wanted to get to the top. I am fairly fit but no match for superfit youngsters, and in order to keep up, I was puffing and panting for 3 hours solid. The girls didn't even break a sweat.

    Luckily for me these young fit girls were a bit cocky and we had set off without consulting the map of various hikes. After 3 attempts to find the skyward trail, we were forced to abandon the plan for to safety. The photo of me meditating on a rock is me thanking God that the hike was over. But I had a good time and wouldn't have done it on my own, so again, grateful for the way the traveling community accept each other how easy it is to pick up 'friends' for the day.

    The following day, I did a Walking Tour of the historic part of the town, which was so interesting, I kept sharing the titbits of info to others bank in the hostel. The inside of the cathedral was one of the most beautiful buildings I have ever seen and my photos don't do it justice. There are 84 churches in this city and they are all used daily.

    The hat man was making personalized Panama hats to order. You choose the size, colour, band, beading and he makes them with his bare hands, glue and an iron.    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    Day 29

    Feminist graffiti - Boys , look away now

    July 3, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    This tickled me. Am going to translate (roughly) in order of photos.

    1) I didn't come from your rib, you came out of my vagina.

    2) Why do people say, "Grow balls". Balls are weak and sensitive. If you want to be hard, grow a vagina. Those things can really take a beating.

    3) If you obey all the rules, you will miss out on all the fun!

    4) History of Vaginas - book your ticket at the second hand bookshop...
    A woman without a man is like a fish without a bicycle.

    5) In a relationship the man is the boss....he that sends flowers, gifts and chocolates.

    6)
    If I don't have curves, I am fat; if I lose weight, I become sick
    If I wear makeup, I'm not natural; if I don't, I look like Jada (Pinkett Smith??)
    If I say what I think, I'm rude; if I don't say it, I'm a hypocrite
    If I defend myself, I'm feisty; if I don't, I'm submissive
    If I laugh I take it all as a joke, if not I'm bitter

    Whatever you do, someone will always criticise you... And what do I care!!!!

    7) Closed minds, open mouths    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    2
    21
    Day 29

    Devil's Nose Hike aka Condor Hike

    July 3, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This hike deserves its own, standalone footprint!

    The hostel manager told the next people to check-in that Billy No Mates over here, wanted to do a hike to Devils Nose but not alone. They agreed to let me join them the next day (a German couple called Esther and Alex). I was a bit nervous of the hike (strenuous), holding them back - them being younger and fitter and more serious hikers (they had fancy hiking poles which indicates their commitment).

    We aimed to get to a point called The Condor, which we thought was in the top of the mountain called Devil's Nose.

    I had said that I might turn back as long as I could find my own way back. They spoke English and we got off to a great start. Decent place, perfect weather, Alex in charge of directions. After 90 minutes, I realised I had to return or commit to staying with them for the duration as I would no longer be able to find my way back. All was well so I pressed on with them.

    The path was difficult as the decline in tourists meant it was not well trodden. I tried going down on my bum but got thorns in it. I had to ask Alex for one of his 2 poles.

    We went off piste to avoid some very large grazing cows (mummy, daddy and baby) who were tied to the narrow path. It involved some rock climbing skills I didn't know how I had.

    We arrive at a toll booth, locked, unmanned. So we climbed over barb wire, with a steep drop, to break in. We didn't come this far to be hindered by a chain and padlock.

    We eventually arrive at The Condor, which appears to be a giant condor sculpture. Stunning views, fresh air, just us. Wow! I was pleased to have made it this far and knew I could manage the walk back.

    Within 20 minutes, the place was filled with a large group of very fit-looking, Lycra-clad hikers. Unusual because they looked more like a running club than hikers.

    We got chatting. They were doing the 20km loop to the Devil's Nose. (The distance may not sound much until you appreciate the steepness).

    Oh, we said ...Are we not already on the Devil's Nose?
    Hahaha No, you are at the viewing point of Devil's Nose.

    Cue my German buddies deliberating for 20 minutes whether they should do the full loop, ... For the pictures, for the view of the zig zag railway track, for the kudos of doing it.

    I stayed quiet. I'm a tagalong. I can't dictate what route we go and I won't use my lack of ability to get in the way of them doing what they want. Inside, I am desperate and forlorn. I know it will be hell for me. I am slower downhill as I have a mental block over falling, as people that walk with me know. These fitties are t telling my Germans it's a 40 minute descent. That's not Turki time. I know I can't go back alone as I will surely get lost.

    I then saw 4 other individuals going back in the direction I had come. My Germans were not making a decision, so I said a hasty Goodbye and ran after the 4 randoms. They were also going a longer route back (but not as steep) so I joined their gang of Spanish and Polish backpackers.

    Back in town, I met with the Germans for lunch and said thank you and goodbye. I had had a lovely walk thanks to them and felt really good. I had a late afternoon nap to recover 💤    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    1131
    Day 27

    San Pedro de Alausi

    July 1, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Alausi is a very small town at the bottom of a mountain. The bus driver there deserves a medal. The narrow, winding, steep, untamacced roads made for a 45 minute thrill-seekers joy ride. It was hairy and scary at the same time, with sheer drops less than a foot away from the tyres at times.

    The scenery and landscape reminded me of Bududa, Uganda.... And another tragic similarity, Alausi experienced a devastating and fatal landslide 3 months ago. The people are pushing ahead, but there is no vibrancy in the air. A community in mourning. Today was meant to be their annual fiesta but no one wants to party.

    I strolled around, went to the San Pedro statue landmark, from there it was easy to see we were in the crater of a volcano, long ago expired. I met friendly, chatty boy called Roger who was determined to help my find the best and most touristy photo, happy to share his knowledge and talk to a foreigner while his Dad tried to figure out how to get his kite to stay up in the air.

    I walked past a church with beautiful music pouring outside. I like to visit places of worship in different countries to see how they do things. I sat down at the back of the congregation, with the priest doing stuff up front. I looked around. The music touched my soul. I looked around some more. This was no church service; I was at a man's funeral! I made a quick getaway with only one quizzical look from a mourner.
    Church/funeral

    The other reason the town was so quiet is that it's main tourist attraction closed in COVID and has not reopened. The Devil's Nose train. A steep, terrifying, zigzagging train that has stunning views for people that don't want to do the 25km hike. The town's economy is decimated and the government has walked away from its responsibility. I bought an overpriced, fake alpaca jumper to contribute to the economy.

    And still the people get you and each other on the street, are kind and gentle and helpful. ❤️

    No tours were running for all the aforementioned reasons. I wasn't prepared to spend on a private tour, which are always available.    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    3114
    Day 26

    Riobamba

    June 30, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    My disinterest in research sometimes back fires. I travelled to Riobamba, a must-see beautiful place. Well, it's a large town and did indeed have some nice parts. There is colonial architecture across the country which gives otherwise run down places an air of grandeur. There are a lot of public parks and statues and cleaner than some countries I have been to. The towns are generally on grid systems so quite easy to navigate once you recognise the street names. Upon arrival, I discover the reason tourists come here. It is the gateway to several mountain and volcano hikes, of the 2-3 day variety. After my experience in Cotapaxi (difficulty breathing due to altitude) and my general casual attitude to hiking, this is not for me. No worries, the hostel is interesting, art deco meets museum meets art gallery.

    I also managed to find a bank that doesn't charge $5 to withdraw cash. Whilst in the bank, using my phone maps to work out directions, the armed guard let me know that phone use is forbidden in banks.

    I forgot to mention that when I was in Quito there was a 5.5 earthquake but to be honest, I didn't feel it.

    Also, something nice to mention, is that every where people are wearing their traditional clothes. In the big towns and cities, it's more the older people but in smaller towns it's everywhere. I don't really have photos because I believe it's rude to take photos of people going about their daily business. Black hats, black block heel shoes, knee high socks, velvet knee length skirts with highly decorated 15 cm hems, embroidered white blouses, alpaca ponchos... For the ladies. And in general, the people are much shorter than westerners by at least a foot or more.

    The next day, I left.... Back on the public bus....hearing chirping/whining from a box. I asked the lady what was in the box. It sounded like a puppy.....but no, it was 3 day old chicks. They were so cute.    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    1111
    Day 24

    Swings and waterfalls

    June 28, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    I made my way to Casa del arbol (a tree house) famous for its swings on top of the world. Instagram famous because good photography makes it appear you are swinging over a canyon. You are high, but not canyon high !! It's a park with swings. I went at the same time as a tour bus of American kids. Which meant I got a much needed push on the swings, someone I challenge me to walk across a pond on a tree trunk and a zip line buddy. I didn't get good photos as didn't want to risk losing my phone. But swinging up at the height of the clouds was breathtaking and exhilarating.

    At Firenza's suggestion, another day, I made my way in cheap and convenient public transport to Rio Verde, a sleepy village hosting el Pailon del Diablo, the Devil's Cauldron waterfall. As I got off the bus, the conductor said what I thought was $5 which I knew was way too much. I gave him 50 cents and got off the bus. I then realised he was kindly telling me that it was 5 minutes more to my stop. DOH!!

    I walked to the waterfall not planning to get too close and wet but it's so powerful and majestic, I was magnetised to get close and went under the rocks, crouched down to access the platform behind the waterfall. Soaked but no regrets.    Read more

  • TravelerTurtles and cowboys
    121
    Day 23

    Cheese on ice cream & random connections

    June 27, 2023 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    In Quito, on every street corner, is an ice cream seller...with cheese. At first, I assumed my Spanish was so bad, that I was misunderstanding. But apparently it's a thing. Like salted caramel - sweet/savoury flavour combo. Whilst strolling around Baños, I come across a particularly clean looking ice cream shop. I was staring at the menu with pictures for far too long, trying to work out how important it was for to sample this weird mix. A young man called Wilson popped out offering me an English menu. I said I was scared to try this crazy concoction so he sprung into action, creating me a generous sample of passion fruit ice, frozen cream and grated mozzarella (like) cheese. Mmmm yes, people, it was delicious 😋. Of course, I was obliged to buy some and had a lovely half hour chatting to Wilson, in Spanish, as he patiently waited for me to get a sentence out, one slow word at a time.

    I left there to visit a tourist attraction, a magical chocolate factory. I thought I could benefit from being educated on the processing process :-). I got chatting to a young Venezuelan man with perfect English, called Luis. Aged 24, financially supporting his parents, sister and niece back home. We had a lovely connection and enjoyed a chat for almost an hour before he had to get back to work (I kept saying 'Don't get yourself in trouble'. He gave me an assortment of milk chocolates because I explained us Brits are used to (and enjoy!!) low grade milk choc :-)

    Another day, I started a solo mini hike. I had had to withdraw cash and walked around a bit to make sure no one following me. Anyway I start on the empty, uphill, path behind the town. Very soon, a man and his dog join me. I let him go ahead (do I can see him). It's steep, he stops for breaths; me too - making sure I can keep him in my sights. Eventually, he rests in a hut. He keeps looking at me, turning round. To be honest, he may well have thought I was acting strange but I didn't feel safe and reluctantly retreated. But I bump into a young English boy and ask if I can walk back up with him. I puff and pant keeping up with this 20 something year old and very pleased to get to the top.

    He runs off to go to a further summit. This nearly 50 year old body tells me I am high enough :-). I then randomly meet an American girl who I am calling Firenza because I can't remember her name. We chatted, took photos of each other, walked down and went out to eat. Shwarma and mojito cocktail in a restaurant called Gardens of Babylon and decorated accordingly. Really lush!!    Read more

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