Slovakia Slovakia

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  • Day 17

    Vienna to Esztergom (Hungary)

    May 13 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    One more day to complete our journey to Budapest. Weather was warming up only to get a 25kph cool crosswind to bring us back to 15 degree highs.
    For 3 days, we've been crossing to and fro from Hungary to Slovakia as the border is the river. Hungary looks like it could do with a few more Euros from what we've seen. Farm machinery is mostly basic and very old. (Think Zetor.) I saw a brand new mower yesterday: a sicklebar! A bit of money in the cities but quite poor buildings and folk otherwise.
    Apparently, rough sleeping is illegal. There are plenty of abandoned buildings around, though.
    Slovakia seems a little better off. We heard several announcements while riding through their villages. Public address systems for announcement of e.g. sporting events, deaths, lotteries, and even lost keys!
    In two weeks on the Danube, we've only encountered 1 English speaking couple (Aussies from Brisbane) who we encounter on the trail daily and compare stories. Just as well, we're still talking to each other.
    I felt quite homesick today... I saw my first road cone in 2 weeks.
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  • Day 3–4

    Vollgas, Wien , Bratislava

    May 2 in Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Was für ein Tag! Auf dem Weg nach Písek habe ich zufällig eine Rennstrecke entdeckt – und klar, da konnte ich nicht widerstehen. Mit meinen 28 PS 🏍️ habe ich jede Kurve ausgekostet und bin tatsächlich als Erster durchs Ziel geschossen. Der Beweis? Im Video festgehalten! 🥇

    Die Nacht verbrachte ich in einem kleinen, aber besonderen Hotel direkt am ⚽ Fußballplatz. Mein Zimmer ging auf eine Terrasse hinaus – und direkt weiter zu den VIP-Plätzen. Die Spieler trainierten quasi vor der Tür. Zum Glück begann der Spielbetrieb nicht allzu früh, sodass ich in Ruhe Energie für die Weiterfahrt tanken konnte. 50 Euronen für eine Übernachtung mit Frühstück, fand ich mehr als angemessen.

    Písek selbst war ruhig und charmant. Für russischsprachige Reisende bietet die Stadt noch ein ganz besonderes Highlight – ein Blick auf die Beschriftungen bei Google Maps reicht, um lauthals loszulachen 😆😁😄

    Weiter ging’s Richtung Bratislava, mit einem spontanen Schlenker über Wien. Die Stadt ist zweifellos beeindruckend – prachtvolle Bauten, lebendiges Zentrum –, aber völlig überlaufen. Touristenmassen überall, Straßen voll, keine Chance auf entspanntes Ankommen. Und dann die Hotelpreise: Ab 300 Euro pro Nacht 🙀 für ein Zwei-Sterne-Zimmer! Ich hab mir beim Vorbeifahren einen ersten Eindruck verschafft und beschlossen: Wien ist nichts für den schnellen Abstecher. Das muss ich mir in Ruhe anschauen – mit dem Zug, und mit mindestens zwei, drei Tagen Zeit.

    Also weiter nach Bratislava – und hier kam sofort Stimmung auf! 💃Die Stadt empfing mich mit einem Rockkonzert mitten im Zentrum, voller Bars und Restaurants, überall freundliche Gesichter, gute Laune in der Luft. Die Sprache klang auf den ersten Eindruck fast verständlich – als würde ich alles verstehen. Doch beim genauen Hinhören wurde klar: zwar ähnlich wie Russisch, aber Sinn ergibt’s trotzdem kaum. Egal! Jetzt heißt’s: marsch – mal sehen, was die Nacht noch so bringt...
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  • Day 30

    Nove Zamky

    May 29, 2024 in Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Nove Zamky, mal ein anderes Städtchen. Nicht so alt, sondern mit Gebäuden aus den 60 – 80 ziger Jahren oder auch noch etwas früher. Ein schöner Park in der Mitte und natürlich auch ein Cafe.
    Mein Stellplatz heute ist auf dem Stadt-Parkplatz. Die Stunde kosten 50 Cent bis 18.00 Uhr, die Nacht ist dafür frei.
    Gleich nebenan gibt es einen Vietnamesen, mein Abendessen heute.
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  • Day 275–278

    Bratislava stopover for castles and beer

    April 26 in Slovakia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    As Bratislava is on the way from Budapest to Vienna we decided to stop off and explore the capital of Slovakia, located on the Danube River just 2 hours by train. Similar to the other medieval towns we have seen, it is charming and very walkable. Slovakia is known for having over 100 castles which made us want to visit a few so we took a great day tour to see three of them and a traditional village. Meanwhile back in old town just outside our door was a great brewery that had delicious Hazy IPA’s with the higher alcohol levels ensuring we had a good nights sleep. We went to the Bratislava castle on the hill and the UFO bar on the bridge to get a birds eye view of the city. We left Bratislava by Twin City liner hydrofoil boat (90 min) to Vienna.Read more

  • Day 7

    Bratislava

    April 8 in Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Bei Sonnenschein und pünktlich in Bratislava angekommen, aber auch hier weht ein kalter Wind.
    Die Altstadt ist sehr überschaubar und touristisch hergerichtet mit vielen schönen Palästen, Fußgängerzonen und Plätzen.
    Mit dem Buss 90 zu einem absoluten Highlight - zum Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, auf einer Donauhalbinsel gelegen, cirka 20 km südlich der Stadt gelegen. Diesmal ein Museum mit viel zeitgenössischer Kunst, vor allem slowakischer Künstler. Das Gebäude soll ein „von Rudern fortbewegtes Schiff“ darstellen - Architekt ist Peter Zalmann. Vielfältige Raumsequenzen mit Ausblicken auf die Donau - erinnert in Treilen an Louisiana…
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  • Day 3–4

    Kosice

    October 19, 2024 in Slovakia ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Our next planned overnight stay was supposed to be in Satu Mare, Romania. However, due to a change of plans and on Farhan's suggestion, we decided to stay in Košice for the night. Košice was originally included in our itinerary for sightseeing on our way to Satu Mare. The city itself doesn't offer much in terms of sightseeing compared to other cities in Eastern Europe. Farhan was interested in experiencing the nightlife and trying the cheap beer (1€). However, after going around in search of a lively place, we had no luck. It's a quiet city with very few people around in Pub.

    ***On our way to Košice, we had two near-collisions with red deer. Luckily, my reflexes were sharp 😉😅. The red deer in Slovakia are massive, taller than our car.
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  • Day 39

    Bratislava: Konditorei Kormuth

    October 16, 2024 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    What is a konditorei? Wikipedia says that it is “a business that typically offers a wide variety of pastries and typically also serves as a café.”

    In the case of Kormuth, it is a konditorei that blends Renaissance-style frescoes with pastries, coffees, and more. The website describes the place as a confectionary that “… brings you experiential gastronomy by combining exceptional flavors and elegance with an impressive interior that will captivate you with its magical atmosphere. …” It certainly delivered on those words.

    I’m not sure if Kormuth is indeed in a 400-year-old building as I read on one website. But the place has apparently been the hangout for artists, writers, and locals, and has been around long enough to witness the changes wrought by changing political climes.

    But … on to my story.

    When Silvia, our guide, stopped in front of what looked like an unassuming building near Hlavne Namestie, the main square in Old Town, it was just for a minute or two. But that was enough time for me to glimpse an amazing interior. Walls and ceilings covered with frescoes. puppet-chefs baking and decorating cakes in one window. A mannequin wearing a Renaissance-style gown in another window.

    My “shutter finger” started twitching. I needed to get inside. It wasn’t quite 10:00a, however, and though there were people scurrying about inside, the door was locked. So, Mui and I — and as it turns out, several of our shipmates — decided to return after our tour ended.

    When we arrived back at Kormuth around 10:15a, the door was still closed. As we approached, the door opened, one of the two couples waiting outside entered, and the door closed. Turns out that the entry — lined with tables on one side and a display case filled with cakes and cookies on the other side — is quite narrow. So patrons form a queue outside and are seated one party at a time. After seeing the interior, I think they also do this because the place would otherwise be overrun by people walking in from the street just to take photos and selfies.

    Anyway, we got in line behind the couple perusing the menu. Almost immediately a long line had formed behind us. Because it was early, our wait wasn’t a long one … just a few minutes.

    When we were welcomed inside, we were escorted to a room just off the entry and given a menu to peruse. But I could not focus on the words. My eyes kept traveling around the room, darting from one colorful fresco to another, taking in the antique furnishings, and smiling at the mismatched porcelain place settings on neighboring tables. Our waiter smiled … used to this reaction. Eventually, we gave him our order.

    Service was prompt and soon we were digging into our sweet treats and sipping our hot beverages. Mui was so pleased with his coffee that he ordered seconds. My Valrhona hot chocolate was incredible … rich and thick … nearly the consistency of melted chocolate … and served with a chaser of fresh whipped cream that I spooned in to my heart’s delight. OMG … it was fantastic, but one cup was enough.

    All the while, we ruminated over the waiter’s cryptic comment when he delivered our order … “don’t miss the toilets!”

    We dawdled over our sweet treats, took photos, and eventually I went downstairs to see what was so special about the toilets! Well, there was more than the toilets to check out … stained glass windows, a staircase decorated with murals, a dungeon-like private room complete with a “man in a not-so-shiny armor.” All eminently photographable.

    And then I came to the ladies room. Let me just say that I’m not in the habit of photographing commodes and such, but these I could not resist. I even sent Mui down to the men’s room later to take a photo or two of the urinals.

    But enough words. I’ll just let the photos tell the story of what charmed us at Konditorei Kormuth. And yes, the cakes were indeed as good as we were told they would be.
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  • Day 39

    Bratislava: Highlights Stroll

    October 16, 2024 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    At 9:00a, our QuietVox headsets set to the channel designated by Silvia, our guide for this morning’s included tour, we set off on a stroll around Bratislava. Described as one of Europe’s “most intimate capitals,” Bratislava was, for a period of time at least, the Coronation City of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. As a matter of fact, our meandering walk — designed to take in the highlights of Old Town — followed, in part, the Coronation Route … marked with brass crown medallions set into the pavement.

    The two-hour tour was fast-paced, but Silvia made enough stops for photos and commentary that it was also an easy one. The only building we entered was St Martin’s Cathedral … and that was just a relatively quick look-see. This was definitely more of a “quantity over quality” tour vs our preferred “quality over quantity” DIY tours. To be expected I suppose since we had no more than three hours in Bratislava … the last hour of which was free time.

    Our feet first carried us to the Opera House … housed in aHabsburg-era Neo-Renaissance style building that dates back to 1886. Then, we walked the length of Hviezdoslav Square ... named for a Slovak poet, dramatist, translator, and briefly a member of the Czechoslovak parliament. Here we found what seemed like an oddity to us … a statue honoring Hans Christensen Andersen. When we asked Silvia about the author’s connection to the city, all she could say was that he had visited Bratislava in 1841. But she was able to point out the “most photographed naked man in Slovakia” … an etching on the back of the Andersen statue depicting the naked emperor in the author’s story, “The Emperor’s New Clothes.” 😄

    As we continued our walk toward the Cathedral, we passed two memorials. The first was the Plague Memorial … an ornate column erected in the aftermath of the devastating plague that struck Bratislava — indeed much of Europe — in the 17th century.

    Next came the Holocaust Memorial, erected in 1996 to mark the spot of the Neolog Synagogue, which was demolished by the Communist government in 1969 to make way for the highway connection for the “UFO” Bridge. A single word — “Pamätaj,” which means “remember” in the Slovak language — is mirrored at the other edge of the pedestal with the Hebrew word that carries the same meaning. The words are intended as a reminder not to forget the 105,000 Slovak victims of the Holocaust.

    With the memorial located in the same square as the cathedral, it was a quick walk to St Martin’s. It was crowded inside … several groups from the Rinda; as many or more groups from land-based bus tours; independent travelers here and there as well. The present church was consecrated in 1452 and named for Bratislava’s patron saint. It was here — after the Ottomans conquered Hungary — that ten kings (and seven wives) and one queen were crowned Imperial rulers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Since there would be no free time for photos, I wandered around a bit as I listened to Silvia on the QuietVox describing the equestrian statue group that depicts St Martin, in typical Hungarian hussar dress, dividing his cloak to give part of it to a beggar as protection from the cold.

    Leaving St Martin’s through a back door, we continued toward the center of Old Town. We peeked into narrow, alley-like streets for photo-ops that included the Bratislava Castle and Michalská Gate, the only one of the original four gates into the city that has been preserved. We also learned about the traditional pastry called bajgel, aka the Bratislava rozky. Ooops! Forgot to sample the pastry, but we made up for that oversight at Konditorei Kormuth … which I will write about separately.

    Eventually, we arrived at Hlavne Namestie, the main square in the heart of Old Town … home to three of the city’s landmarks … with two others nearby. There was no time then to go into the Old Town Hall, which dates back to the 13th century. But Mui and I managed a quick look-see later when we passed by the square again on our way back to the ship.

    Silvia used the time here to talk about the Roland Fountain in the square, which was installed in 1572. Many believe that the statue atop the column depicts King Maximilian. Makes sense since he commissioned it. Thus, that is another name by which the fountain is known. But the most popular moniker is the “Peeing Boys Fountain” … for the statues of four young boys that are seemingly “taking a wee.” I’m not sure if the ‘boys’ were part of the original fountain, or a later addition, but these statues — two of which are holding hands — caused quite a stir amongst the residents in 1794 and were removed. Fear not, the boys are back! They were restored to the fountain following the 2019 reconstruction of the landmark.

    While Silvia was answering questions, Mui and I went to check out one of the three quirky statues that my research had suggested we keep an eye out for. Installed in front of the French Embassy, the statue depicts a French army soldier, bent from the waist, his arms resting on the back of a bench. Is it Napoleon mooning the French Embassy? Or is it Hubert … a soldier who fell in love with a local girl, stayed behind when the French army left, and started producing a sparkling wine named Hubert that has since become one of the most popular brands in the country. There doesn’t seem to be a consensus on which story is real, so I’ll let you decide which one you prefer.

    We came across the two other quirky statues after we left Hlavne Namestie. First, right around the corner, we found “Schöne Náci,” a famous local dandy … with a whimsical personality and impeccable attire … dedicated to spreading joy and warmth around Bratislava. The story goes that he had a habit of greeting women with a kiss and handing out flowers.

    The last statue was a little further down the road … “Čumil, Man at Work.” Čumil, is the Slovak word for “watcher.” The reason for the name becomes apparent when you realize the statue depicts a man partially poking out of a manhole, his head resting on his folded arms. He’s a peeping Tom of sorts! In fact, the smile on his face is attributed to the fact that he is looking under the skirts of passing women! Apparently Čumil was being run over by drivers. He is, after all, rather low-to-the ground. The solution was to add a“Man at Work” sign … which simply served to increase the statue’s popularity with both the locals and visitors.

    Thus, we wrapped up the tour. Silvia bid us farewell and set us free … reminding us not to be late returning to the Rinda. We had an hour to spare before all aboard … which we put to good use with a bit more sightseeing, but more importantly, with relax-time at Konditorei Kormuth. But that story is for the next footprint.
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  • Day 39

    Welcome to Bratislava, Slovakia

    October 16, 2024 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Following a quiet overnight cruise from Vienna, Rinda arrived in Bratislava … the capital and largest city of the Slovak Republic, and also the fourth largest city on the River Danube.

    As night gave way to a colorful sunrise, we enjoyed our breakfast, fueling up for the first included ship’s tour of our river cruise.

    By the time daylight broke, Rinda was at its berth at the Propeller … formerly a ferry terminal for the vessels that used to cross from one side of the Danube to the other. The pontoons along the shore were all empty; Rinda was tied up at the one smack dab in front of the main thoroughfare leading into Old Town … a perfect spot from which to launch our walking tour of Bratislava.
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  • Day 39

    Tatra-Nationalpark

    September 2, 2024 in Slovakia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Vormittags haben wir eine Wanderung zu einem Bergsee im Tatra-Nationalpark gemacht. Auf dem Weg dorthin, hat uns eine sehr schöne Eisenbahnlinie begleitet, die wir öfters auch gekreuzt haben. Am See angekommen, haben wir etwas gegessen und mussten einen sehr starken Regenschauer aussitzen. Den Rückweg haben wir dann schnell in einer Regenpause angetreten 🏞Read more

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