Spain

Interesting day today – a day of contrasts in many different ways.

First, despite the chilly morning temperatures that I have experienced so far, I left Sarria in a balmy 11 degrees and had ‘delayered’ within the first five minutes. I was down to my walking shirt and shorts for the first time on my Camino before I had even left the city limits.

Second, and as expected, there were many more pilgrims leaving Sarria this morning but for the last ten or twelve kms I was unusually alone. I don’t know where they all went but it happens as everyone sorts themselves into their own rhythm.

Third, I found the walk really beautiful today and felt as though I had spent most of my time on quiet woodland paths. However, when I checked my guidebook, I had spent half my time on back roads that had very little traffic. Whatever the nature of the path, I found it very calming today.

Next, because I was largely by myself for the day, and despite the busy-ness of increased pilgrim traffic in the early stages, I was deeper in thought today than at any time since leaving St Jean four weeks ago. I have usually had those times across the meseta but I guess you never know when the moment will grab you. I don’t think I resolved anything, but I enjoyed the therapy.

Finally, I passed two blind Spanish pilgrims early in today’s walk. One was using two walking canes, and the other was accompanied by a guide dog. I tried not to be too obvious in my observations but there might have been a sighted pilgrim assisting them as well. Even so, to consider what they are doing out here just filled me with awe. On the other side of the coin, I encountered my first bus load of Camino ‘tourists’. These are people who are transported to a site where they can get a stamp for their credenciale. They then get back on the bus and go to the next stop to get another stamp, and so on. No walking involved, just a bunch of stamp collectors. They then go to the Pilgrims’ Office in Santiago and say they have completed the Camino in order to get their Compostela. I’m trying not to be judgemental, especially after passing the two Spanish pilgrims earlier in the day – but I am challenged.

On the approach to Portomarin, there is a stairway that makes you think that someone is having a joke with you after a 20+km walk. Anyway, as I climbed up towards the town, I could hear guitar music that played and then stopped. As my head appeared, the music started again and there was a girl playing “We Are The Champions” to herald my arrival. I acknowledged her playing but didn’t have the strength or motivation to do anything more in the way of a tip. As I passed by, she stopped playing. I had my answer.

Tonight, I am in Portomarin which is situated on the banks of the Belesar reservoir. The original Portomarin now lies beneath the surface of the lake and several buildings were re-located up to the new Portomarin, brick-by-brick and stone-by-stone. The main church, with links to the knights of St John, is one of those buildings and is a huge example of a place of worship and defence. I found a couple of stones that are numbered, I believe as a means of identifying them during the move.

In other news, I found the best ice-cream shop on the Camino – so far – in Portomarin and, in terms of weight loss, I’ve undone all the good I did during the day.

Today’s clip below takes you from Sarria to Portomarin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=05SewU5yu6s&amp…

Thanks for following along, nearly there. Today, I passed the 100kms to go marker.

Distance today: 23 kms
Total distance travelled so far: 671 kmsRead more