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    • ResenärWalking France and Spain, 2024
      Dag 21

      A great walk from San Juan de Ortega

      30 april, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

      We had planned right from the start of this trip that today, unless it was teeming with rain, we would walk from San Juan de Ortega into Burgos, the walk we would have done last year except we got a taxi to the hospital instead. It is the third time we have walked into Burgos, in 2013 and 2018 we tried to walk an alternate route along the river into the city, thus avoiding the long boring walk through the industrial area. And twice we failed to find the turnoff…so we really wanted to succeed this time and have a last chance of getting it right! And finally we did!!

      Rachel and Richard were also keen, and we got a taxi back and set off walking from there at 9am. When almost at San Juan the taxi was hailed by a man, obviously in distress - he was a walker, but his wife was in trouble, and he needed a taxi to take her to the hospital…they were having trouble communicating, and we realised he was French and his Spanish was bad, so Amr stepped in as translator and the taxi driver confirmed that he would drop us off, and come back in 5 minutes to pick them up….what luck for everyone!

      San Juan was lovely in the morning light, totally quiet, as everyone staying there last night had already left, and the next wave wouldn’t arrive till afternoon. It was cold, but cloudless and perfect walking weather. I had forgotten how beautiful this section was, and we hadn’t seen it in spring with all the green fields and bright green new spring leaves.

      We walked comfortably, at a leisurely pace, taking breaks when we felt like it, and having a wonderful time. And studying the Book closely, and Rachel’s maps on her iPhone, we took the right turns, and entered Burgos by the river route…hallelujah! It was a long walk - about 26kms, but Amr’s watch says 28 - and there was a long stretch around the airport, and when we got to the river part, there was still a couple of hours of walking - but we were by then feeling triumphant and knew the end was in sight. And maybe it is after our warm up walking in France, we feel fabulous!!

      Then after a bit of abluting and downtime, we set off into the town for a small wander before meeting R and R in the cathedral square and went with them to the 7.30 mass in a very fancy chapel in the cathedral…it was a pilgrim mass and we all got a cathedral postcard blessing. As we left the promised storm broke, but we had umbrellas and quickly made our way to a nearby restaurant and had good dinner, then back to hotel where Amr spotted the woman who had been so kind to him last when he was there for a week, and she remembered him and great excitement, and we all had a drink in the bar - 2 ColaCao with baileys, 1 baileys on ice, one red wine, one espresso all for €8…(maybe she was giving Amr a special price…? (The breakfast man remembered him too, quite a celebrity round here!). Anyway, a fab night, and tomorrow we set off on the official camino to Hornillos del Camino, about 21 kms…      Läs mer

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    • naturweltenbummlerIberischer Frühling 😎
      4
      Dag 15

      Madrid #03

      30 april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Unser dritter Tag hier in Madrid hat es wirklich in sich gehabt. So kunstbeflissen waren wir schon lange nicht!
      Begonnen haben wir beim Königspalast. Den haben wir zwar nur nochmals von außen besichtigt - die Schlange für den Eintritt war gefühlt 1 Kilometer lang - aber wir haben ausgiebig die schöne Catedral de la Almudena besichtigt.
      Danach sind wir zum Templo de Debod, einem kleinen Ägyptischen Tempel gewandert. Dafür mussten wir unzählige Stufen bezwingen. Dafür hat man von dort oben eine tolle Aussicht in Richtung Königspalast.
      Nach so einer schweißtreibenden Wanderung war Stärkung angesagt. Da war ein super gutes Steak gerade das Richtige, auch Thomas hat es gut vertragen. 🥰
      Nach einem gemütlichen Kaffee waren wir eigentlich schon ziemlich müde, aber nix da, es fehlte ja noch was in unserer Madridsammlung…
      Richtig! Das Museo Nacional del Prado!
      Und so wurde das riesige, sehr beeindruckende Museum mit seinen unzähligen Gemälden unser letzter Sightseeing Stop.
      Schön war’s in Madrid und das Wetter hat auch recht brav mitgespielt.      Läs mer

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    • Laurie ReynoldsVía Serrana and El Invierno
      131
      Dag 20

      To Quiroga in the rain (28 km and 700 m)

      30 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      It wasn’t a totally rainy day, but there were several long-ish periods, so my shoes and feet were soaked most of the day. This is a very nice stage even when it’s raining, way up high with four other paths paralleling below — the river, the train tracks, the national highway, and the local highway. And there I was on top of all of it! The Sil River is dark green, blending in with the greenery all around. With the grey sky, the color palette was fairly reduced—except for billions of bright yellow flower bushes (gorse or broom, I’ve been told they’re called).

      The Camino goes through several little villages— all have at least a few inhabitants, a few renovated homes, and the great majority falling apart. I can’t imagine that there is anything that will bring these places back to life, but maybe the Camino will do it!

      One of my two favorite Sil River horseshoe curves is on this stage, and luckily it wasn’t raining when I got to that spot! I sat and had a few handfuls of trail mix and soaked it in — then the rain started and I really soaked it in.

      I am in a nice place in Quiroga— hair dryer and heat! Now my shoes will dry for sure.

      Looks like rain for the next few days.      Läs mer

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    • Caminho Português
      2
      11311
      Dag 20

      Santiago de Compostela

      30 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      An 8km final day, mainly up hill! We started late to avoid the drizzle and were partially successful. Our ponchos did get an outing. While short, the walk was quite hard. Final few kms through the suburbs of Santiago as we sought a glimpse of the Cathedral, then we arrived via the alley ways of the central city. Lots of fellow pilgrims arriving. Photos then off to get our official parchment of completion, a proud possession. Found our rather cosy room nearby, then a quick visit to the Cathedral to embrace the Apostle James and light some candles. A late lunch and celebratory libation. We’ll attend the Pilgrim Mass at 7.30pm.Läs mer

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    • Camino
      1
      11
      Dag 16

      Chasing adventures

      30 april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Adventures abound! 🌍 From extraordinary food to breathtaking vistas, every moment is a treasure. The chilly air can't dim the vibrant blue skies above us. Challenges? Oh, they've been there, weaving into our journey, urging contemplation and growth. 🤔 #AdventureTime #WanderlustLäs mer

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    • Marokko und zurück (en moto)
      2
      Dag 25

      “Give someone the right shoes …

      29 april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

      … and they can conquer the world.” Das ist das Motto der “Cordwainers”, einer 750 Jahre alten Schuhmachergilde aus England. Auf deren “Master” John Peal treffen wir zufällig in einer Tapasbar in Sevilla. Er ist mit seiner Frau Elena (“Elly”) einige Tage in Spanien, was besonderen Sinn ergibt, denn aus der Nähe, genauer aus Córdoba, stammt historisch das besonders feine Ziegenleder, aus dem die handwerklich gefertigten Schuhe seit jeher gemacht werden. Heute unterstützt die Vereinigung junge Schuhdesigner und hält traditionelle Kleidung hoch (“livery”). Die beiden sind ein bezauberndes Paar, ausgestattet mit der großartigen britischen Höflichkeit, diesem unnachahmlichen feinen Sinn für Humor und einer Lust am Plaudern, die ihresgleichen sucht. Wir sprechen über Motorradreisen (insgeheim ist John ein Biker, er verweist auf die englische Reisedoku “Long Way Round”), über Fashion und Schuhe, über Jeremy Clarkson und seine Farm, über den VW-Diesel-Skandal, über die “door bell” für Fische in Utrecht und noch so einiges mehr. Im Nu sind zwei Stunden verflogen. Wie gut, dass alle Tapasbars in Sevilla so überfüllt sind, dass Elly und John - nach kurzem Zögern - unserer Einladung folgen und sich zu uns an den Tisch setzen. Hey, Elly and John, Ihr Engländer seid großartig, wann kommt Ihr nach Europa zurück? … In Sevilla selbst steht die gothische Kathedrale im Mittelpunkt, sie wird als die größte ihrer Art angegeben, aber ganz ehrlich: Der Kölner Dom ist beeindruckender. So viel Lokalpatriotismus muss sein. Sehr wohl beeindruckend ist allerdings, wie elegant Sevilla ist. Hier leben wirklich schöne Menschen, die sich zudem sehr schön anziehen. Da fallen wir deutlich ab. … Was das Fahren anbelangt: Um 5.30 geht der Wecker, denn um 6:30 Uhr müssen wir die Fähre Tangar - Tarifa erwischen. Wir haben die letzten Plätze ergattert, denn (anders als bei der Hinfahrt) sind die Fähren nun sehr gut gebucht. Von Tarifa aus sind es gut 200 km bis Sevilla. Wir versuchen im “Parque Natural Los Alcornocales” eine möglichst schlechte Straße zu finden, um uns nicht zu abrupt von den marokkanischen Verhältnissen zu entwöhnen. Das gelingt uns mühelos. Norbert verspeist mittags in der “Venta del Puerto de Galis” ein Wildschwein. Schlechte Straßen machen hungrig.Läs mer

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    • ResenärCamino de Santiago
      1
      1
      Dag 36

      Tears, paperwork, and backtracking

      27 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Before I knew it, we were in the city outskirts then the historic centre outskirts and then we were there. End of the line. I've had 33 days to get ready for this and I wasn't.

      I stood there in the graduating crowd and felt around in the dark for an emotion. I couldn't get hold of one, they were too slippery. Myths and murmurs of long processing times at the pilgrim office made me scurry down there after a few minutes.

      How it goes from here is this:

      You go online and pre-fill your name, route, start date and location, and whether or not you did this for religious reasons. I did this last night, but lots were doing it on the street. This form spit out a QR code. You show this code to the security guard (I'm not making any of this up) who lets you into the foyer.

      You scan the QR code and it gives you a ticket. You wait (not even a minute… those liars) until the screen shows your ticket and a desk number. You go to that desk. You hand over your credential and scan the QR code again. They inspect your credential, stamp it, and, if it is to their satisfaction, issue your Compostela, look at you, and say congratulations.

      You shake their hand. You walk through the gift shop (still not kidding) and buy a little cardboard tube to keep it safe. She rolls it, seals it, takes your money. You walk out the door, find the closest bench, and collapse. You burst into tears and let out the cry you have been carrying for 945km.

      You go back up to the Cathedral, find and fall into the arms of pilgrims you know. You laugh. You hold people as they have their turn to cry. You exchange Instagrams, cheek kisses, international number codes.

      You walk 4km back out of town to find a bed. You have a beer. You tell some people what you've done. You sleep.      Läs mer

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    • Camino Frances 2024
      1
      111
      Dag 21–22

      Day 18 FromistaDay 19 CarrionDeLosCondes

      28 april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

      On Day 18 we woke up to a surprise ascent that reminded us of the Pyrenees. A 26 km day that included a walk by the old canal into Fromista. Alot of churches have stork nests on their steeples, I've only seen that here in N.Spain.
      Day 19 was a flat 20 km straight line day that had us checking into our church municipal hostel run by the Sisters of Charity - it will be a warm sleep as the sisters won't shut the heat at 10pm🙏      Läs mer

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    • naturweltenbummlerIberischer Frühling 😎
      221
      Dag 14

      Madrid #02

      29 april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Heute war ein recht gemütlicher Tag.
      Unser erster Spaziergang ging quer durch den Ritero Park, am Ende sind wir vor dem Museo del Prado gelandet. Da wir heute keine Lust auf stundenlange Museumsbesuche hatten, ging’s gemütlich durch kleine Gassen zum Mercado. 😋😋
      Danach haben wir von der Aussichtsplattform des Cortes Ingles eine Blick über die Stadt geworfen.
      Zum Abschluss sind wir noch über die Gran Via geschlendert und in einige Geschäfte gefallen. 😊 Frau hat wieder einige Kleinigkeiten erstanden.
      Da ja einkaufen bekanntlich müde macht, ging’s nach den Einkäufen retour zum Campingplatz.
      Morgen wir der Rest von Madrid erkundet.      Läs mer

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    • Camino de Santiago
      1
      Dag 16–17

      Entering the Meseta

      29 april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      Burgos to Hornillos del Camino
      The Meseta is widely considered the “Mind” section of the Camino Frances, due to the long stretches with little distraction. It is about 220km long between Burgos and Leon, and can take 9 days to trek across. The Meseta is a high plateau in central Spain that's mostly treeless and covered in grain and vegetable fields. Most people either love it or hate it. We shall see which camp we fall into… 🌾🌾🌾 We completely lucked out and arrived into Hornillos after a long 22k day to grab the last few beds at an awesome albergue. Aimee is still recovering from a head cold & I’m fighting a bit of a stomach bug, so it felt like an extra hard day for both of us. A wonderful community Paella dinner was the perfect end to the day! ☀️We met new friends today from the UK, Spain, California, New Zeland, Australia, Italy & Germany. ❤️☮️Läs mer

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