SibenikNovember 10, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Sibenik old town had been highlighted in The Rough Guide as a 'must see'. Built on a steep hillside, it had a labyrinthine maze of narrow streets and stairways. Brown or green painted wooden shutters dotted the walls and above us telephone wires and washing lines criss crossed between houses.
St James Cathedral was, like most of the religious buildings we've encountered in Croatia, made out of a smooth pale stone. Inside, statues and paintings lined the walls. There was a drying bunch of grapes hanging from the outstretched fingers of the Madonna and Child. Its baptismal font featured centrally within an intimate round room. Cherubs and fine detail around inset arches decorated the walls and ceiling, with an external light providing atmospheric illumination. A single stained glass window lit the length of the prayer hall through a circular peacock fan. While neither of us are religious we could both appreciate the carthedral's charms.
Exploring the lanes we came accross a shrine in a shallow cave, orange and peach trees growing in small gardens and the ubiquitous pussy cats, popping in and out of doorways or preening themselves. The place was quiet and had character aplenty but there was very little in the way of a quick lunch so we headed out of the old town. There was a distinct divide between the historic side presented to tourists and today's city that accomodated most of its population. We'd seen some graffiti previously but many walls were covered with it here and going by the uncared for building facades with crumbling plaster, there was obviously a lot of deprivation.
We came accross a market that was packing up but some peripheral street vendors were still open so we bought the same pasty/pie lunch we had the other day in Pag. We discovered the cheese stuffed one was called a 'Burek Sir' and the meat one 'Burek Meso'.Read more