We're taking a gentle walk from Porto to Santiago de Compostela (well, it may not be very gentle at times!), walking along the North Atlantic coast as far as possible before turning inland to SdC. Read more
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  • Day 2

    Day 2, but really day 1, except..

    May 9 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Except tomorrow is really day 3 or day 1 - of walking!
    Yesterday was 12 hours of travel, from Hampshire to Porto, via Basingstoke, Clapham Junction and Gatwick Airport. It didn't help the usual travel anxiety (like, have I packed everything, forgotten anything, booked accommodation accurately) when the trains were on strike or having overtime bans. It also didn't help that I'd already left the house and was merrily on my way to the station when I realised I'd forgotten my bumbag (with passport, money, cards and phone!) so had to rush back to collect it 🙄😂. Then it didn't help that I couldn't remember if I'd locked the front door after myself! Dear me! (I had, happily confirmed by my neighbour 😄).
    Anyway, trains were running and I managed to get to Basingstoke, where I was meeting Julie, who was having her own problems with packed trains - she wasn't sure she'd be able to get on one at Winchester. But she did, and I joined her for a standing room only journey to Clapham Junction, where we took the Gatwick train and cracked open the Fizz and the Freddos. We know how to live!
    We lunched at Gatwick (a very nice healthy salad and a not so healthy glass of white each) and tipped our waiter generously as he'd called us beautiful and lovely 😀. Doesn't take much!
    Time flew, and, eventually, so did we. It was a good flight and our bags arrived shortly after we did, thank goodness!
    There followed a trip on the metro and a bus to our accommodation, 6km outside of Porto centre. It's just one room with a small shower room and a fish tank! Seems we're responsible for keeping loads of little neons or some such alive. We have to feed them tonight 😱😂. So after a late evening meal of a WHSmith pasta dish, it was time for bed.
    Portugal is on UK time so we woke up at our usual times and spent a leisurely couple of hours or so playing with our packs, taping our toes and/or feet, and eating yesterday's WHSmith dessert of yoghurt. A good start to the day.
    We left our room at 0900 and headed for the river, just a couple of hundred metres away. Keeping the Duoro to our right, we headed into Porto, and not even I could get lost! It's all flat and was a lovely walk - we're used to a mighty wind and rain in this area (last couple of caminos here) but it was wonderful. A bit of an uphill helped us make the decision to stop at a cafe for cake/coke/coffee (our second breakfast) and we headed off to the cathedral. Well, okay, if we'd have taken my route, we'd have got lost but, fortunately, I had Julie to turn me 180 degrees whereupon I found the cathedral!😂
    We had our credentials stamped with our first sello and wandered around the cathedral, inside and out and up a tower, took some photos, and decided to find lunch. We couldn't find a sandwich shop with actual sandwiches so the Spar it was🙄. But - we found delicious sandwiches there and lovely juicy tomatoes, so were very happy sitting at the waterfront munching away.
    A lovely bimble back along the waterfront, this time keeping the Duoro to our left (see, I know where I'm going 😂) and we arrived at a very convenient small bar selling beer - our first camino beer, but not our last! Even Sid joined in.
    It just remains for us to find somewhere or something for supper and repack our backpacks ready for tomorrow, our first proper day of walking. We've already knocked 6km off, so it should just be 18km. It should... I'll let you know!
    (Other posts won't be 2 days long, don't worry!)
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  • Day 3

    Who'd have thought it?🙄😂

    May 10 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Last night, after a short trip to the local mercado, where we purchased bread, tomatoes, salad leaves, Philly, peaches, yoghurts and a large bag of crisps (oh, and a beer each) we very happily made our way back to our room and ate a simple, but hearty supper! After showering and repacking ready for our next day, our first camino day, we were flat out by 2200 (well, I was, Julie, not so 😴).
    We left our room at 0900 this morning as we didn't have to be at our next stop in Labruge until 1500, and with only 18km to walk (ahem), that was tons of time! Our walk was fabulous and we strolled along for about 6km until we reached Matosinhos, where we stopped for our second breakfast, the first being yesterday's yoghurt and a bread roll. My second was some sort of thing with ham and chorizo inside and a caffeine kick with a coke zero, Julie's was a cake and coffee 😋. Sid and Mog managed to get stuck in, as well! Then it was back on the sidewalk and a stamp at the information office, where we came upon the mourning ladies, fantastic bronze sculptures remembering a tragic storm when 152 crew lost their lives leaving 72 widows and 152 orphans 😥. We met a couple of Swiss German ladies on bikes who wanted to know how to get to the bridge that took us over the rio Leça and, between us, and using English, my basic school girl German and Google maps, we managed to show them the way! We continued walking over the bridge and through Matosinhos until we found a lovely little chapel where we stopped again for a drink and a look out to sea, and another bilingual chat with the ladies. We watched a couple of divers and were a little worried about one who seemed to be being washed by the waves a little too close to the rocks! He obviously wasn't worried, though, so we left him to his snorkelling and joined the boardwalk, the start of a great walk to Labruge on bouncy planks of wood that were good for the knees 😄. Timing was good and we were on track to arrive at our accommodation by 1500ish, so we stopped for another coke and an ice cream - much needed!
    We also passed some gorgeous little fisherman's cottages and, if you look closely, you can see the cat nestled amongst the nets😂.
    Continuing on our way, we reached the turn off for Labruge so I switched on the Airbnb message for directions. BIG MISTAKE!😂😂😂 It took us inland for a few kilometres, that was fine, but then directed us across fields of some crop or other🙄. Hmm... what to do? Actually, using Google maps was a good idea and brought us to our night's accommodation, with just an extra 3+ kms walked 🙄😂. Should have known😂.
    Our room is very nice, and we've managed to handwash some smelly clothes (not easy when there's no plug in the sink!) and it's so warm it's already nearly dry 👏. I must admit to walking most of the way today with yesterday's wet knickers pinned to the back of my rucksack. You can take the girl out of Liverpool...😂
    We were very sensible and stocked up on provisions before we reached our room, and have enjoyed tuna, tomatoes, bread and an orange for supper. With, of course, a beer. Wouldn't be a camino otherwise, would it?
    The little village we're in is lovely, surrounded by farmland (and don't we know it - tractors and smells...😱😄) but has a lovely church and an unusually large cemetery which seems to be having a makeover by the church commitee ladies. Fresh flower arrangements were being laid on graves and the whole place was being swept clean. Wonder what for?
    We've planned our route for tomorrow. Just 22kms... Yeh, right 😂😂😂
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  • Day 4

    The perfect diet...🤔😂

    May 11 in Portugal ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    We'd decided to leave a little earlier today as we had beds booked at the albergue in Aguçadoura which would be released if we weren't there by 1500. As today's walk equalled yesterday's (22km), we reckoned 5 or so hours of walking at a gentle pace, plus 2 for rest stops, would be just about right. So we left our lovely accommodation in Labruge at 0800 and, rather than heading back to the coast, joined the route just 100m from the accommodation. Confusingly, that was the coastal route, even though it wasn't on the coast! We're actually walking as much as we can on the Littoral route, i.e. right next to the North Atlantic. Hope that makes sense!
    A quick visit to the church to light a candle for Nigel (well, at the feet of St James on the mini roundabout!), miss him and think some happy thoughts about him, and we were on our way. The sun was out, but it wasn't hot, and was really good walking weather. The road surface was cobbles for much of the first part of our walk, and we passed lots of farmland, but we kept up a good pace and were looking forward to a first/second breakfast (I'd already had a bread roll from last night's supper) when a very nice man (a very very nice man!) asked us if we'd like some bread! He was the travelling bread van man and wanted to treat us 🤗. How could we say no?!! So we chose a bread roll each, thanked him profusely, and nibbled (scoffed in my case!) our lovely, freshly baked rolls as we walked into Mindello, where we stopped for a coffee/coke. We couldn't face a second/third breakfast so, apart from a good rest for our feet, that was it, and we were off towards Vila do Condo. We'd got thoroughly lost here 5 years ago so it was good to be able to point some other pilgrims in the right direction 😂. We stopped for a coke at a posh cocktail bar, Sid tried to dive headfirst into mine, and then we were off again. It's great being able to stop whenever you please, but today we were aware that we had to be at our destination by 1500, or we'd be stuffed!😂
    From VdC we walked uphill and inland for a bit, then back down to the seaside at Povoa de Varzim where we stopped for 'lunch' - our first proper gelato - and a large one at that. It was delicious, of course, and hopefully the first of many.
    From here, we walked the Littoral route all the way to Aguçadoura. As well as being next to the sea, it was incredibly windy! Amazingly so. But at least it wasn't raining.
    We found our accommodation at the albergue with about 10 minutes to spare 👏👏👏 which was good as we saw a few pilgrims turned away! After a shower and some sock washing, it was time for a bimble around Aguçadoura and a trip to the church which, for such a small town, is absolutely massive. The obligatory Camino beer followed, then a trip to the mercardo for tonight's supper - sardines 😋😂. So our diet today has been varied and not really very healthy, but delicious all the same!😄
    We climbed into our (top) bunks - ouch - at 1935 and will be here until the snorers, farters and/or coughers wake us up. Either that or the early risers! Well, unless we're the guilty ones...
    23km tomorrow and hoping not to get wet, although we will be headfirst into that blinkin' wind!
    Oh, and I have a blister. A BIG one (not).😱 Where's our Jan when you need her?😂😂
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  • Day 5

    Got it right this time!

    May 12 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Well, we said 23km, and it was!👏👏👏
    We left the albergue at about 0730 (you're usually chucked out at 0800 anyway) after a very humid night's sleep in a dorm for 6. We were all ladies so you'd have thought there wouldn't be too much snoring... hands up the guilty parties 🖐🖐. Notice I said parties! It was Julie and me🙄😂😂. But it still wasn't a bad night's sleep, and my blister had dried out a bit so a covering of melanin and we were raring to go! Connie at the albergue had reassured me that there was a café after about 15 minutes, so we didn't consider eating a first breakfast before we left. However... you guessed it, the café was closed 🙄😂. I knew there was nothing until Fão (unless some enterprising person had worked out there was a real need for a snack bar) so a Snickers for a first breakfast it was 😋.
    Our walk took us along boardwalks, past golf clubs and allotments, then changing from boardwalk to cobbles (ouch!) until we reached Apúlia. However, there was nothing there because we were away from the seaside. Not by far, but we'd have added over a km to our walk by trying to find something open on a Sunday morning. So when we reached Fão we fell into the first open café we found and devoured some very nice cake 😋. It was a good rest, and I removed my foot covering - too soon 😂 - two minutes later, back on it went! But we set a good pace and continued walking over the bridge at Fão and on to Esposende, where we stopped for lunch. We were very healthy and ate a salmon salad, with no dessert! The sun was shining, but there was a lovely, gentle breeze to keep us cool. There were a few pilgrims (one carrying a guitar - we were hoping they'd be staying with us to provide a bit of entertainment 😀) and the way was well signposted.
    The rest of our walk took us through some lovely hilly areas with great houses, but no gelaterias or cafés to be found 😫😂. We eventually found our lovely accommodation and, after a shower and a clothes wash, bimbled out for our beer 👏👏👏. We then ordered a pizza each for supper with, of course, a beer!
    Tomorrow (and the days afterwards) are due to be very wet indeed, so we'll be packing up extra carefully in the morning. Everything will be triple protected. We hope...
    Ooohhh, and just listen to those 🐸s 😂😂😂
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  • Day 6

    We've developed webbed feet!

    May 13 in Portugal ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    After a really good night's sleep, despite the crowing of the cockrel at 0400 and the clucking of the chickens at 0600, we looked out to see it wasn't actually raining that much! The weather forecast was for heavy rain but we thought maybe it'd passed us by. So, still togged up for rain in our wet weather gear, we set off at 0800 for Carreço, 25km away. Our Antas host had said there was a café 15 minutes away, so we were heading there for our first breakfast. However, we got chatting to a bloke from the Lake District who was walking apace and completely missed it. Oh no!😱😂.
    Part of the path today led us through a fabulous wooded area so we slowed down and he carried on striding - not sure he'd be appreciating his surroundings at that speed, but we all enjoy different caminos. It really was a few kilometres in which to slow down and just enjoy our surroundings (not least of all because we were likely to take a tumble if we didn't look where we were placing our feet!) We made a short stop to light a candle for Nigel, knowing he'd have really appreciated this place🥰🥰🥰.
    It was definitely raining, but we were sheltered because of the trees, and it wasn't that bad. Julie found a new friend outside an albergue, obviously dressed in lost property 😂 and we finally found a café at Castelo do Neiva, just 150m off route, where we made the most of our first breakfasts 😋.
    When we left the café, the rain had definitely increased and we were pleased we'd kept our waterproofs on. In fact, it was 'orrible! We just had to keep our heads down and head into it. Not massively pleasant, especially as we couldn't enjoy what was around us or take time to wander, for example, when we passed the Mosterio de São Romão de Neiva, which looked rather interesting! Never mind😂.
    Our route had been very Camino Frances-ish at this point. It continued to take us uphill towards Chafé, where we knew there was another café. We passed a small stall selling all sorts of paraphernalia but Chafé was our destination! (we'd decided to stop every 5km or so to rest our feet and take our soaked jackets off.) As we were climbing we found a small stall selling homemade fridge magnets, which we both took advantage of (it meant we had a few minutes rest, as well). The café in Chafé served us our lunch - we both ordered a mixed omelette and a drink. As time went by we noticed others being served who'd arrived after us. We'd been forgotten 😱. Still, the plates we saw being served were filled with chips, too, so we'd forgive them 😂. By the time they realised they hadn't fed us, though, our dishes turned into straightforward omelette 😥. No chips 😫😂😂. No tip!!!
    We headed straight out into more rain and continued up up up until we reached the top (not sure what of, but it was high enough!). The downward journey took next to no time but, of course, we still couldn't enjoy our surroundings because every time we lifted our heads we just got wetter and wetter! Before we knew it, we were striding across a very long bridge into Viana do Castelo (the bridge also managed to go up up up before going down down down 🙄) and straight to a café for a well-deserved cake 🎂. We'd already agreed to find a different sort of transport to our final destination and we managed to find the train station to take us there! Our accommodation was just a few hundred metres from the station, where we were met with hugs and kisses from Tatania and Marcus, as if we were long-lost friends! We both admitted to being a bit taken aback by the OTT welcome and a bit worried that we were the only 2 guests that evening 😂. All's been good up to now, though!🙏😂
    An evening meal at a local restaurant, where we shared a menu because it was so big, was delicious and great value for money. And Sid started acting up, too!!! "Just call me Jonah!" he said. 😂😂😂
    Tomorrow, we lose an hour as we're walking (no, sailing!) into Spain! Marcel is very excited to be making an appearance at last!😂😂😂
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  • Day 7

    Oh, What a Day...

    May 14 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    With apologies to The Four Seasons!
    We started the day, ready to leave Tatania and Marcus's amazing house, at 0730. We crept down the stairs as quietly as we could - Tatania was quite an ebullient character, and we'd rather not have encountered her at such an early hour! It was a great stay, but one night was enough😂. A short walk took us to the local café for our first breakfast, which was delicious - sort of a turbo charged cinnamon bun 😋. Absolutely gorgeous and it kept us going for hours!
    We walked towards the coast (not far) and picked up the route, which took us through some beautiful woodland. It was quite amazing - we had the sound of birds all around us, and the crashing waves of the North Atlantic to our left. A wonderful walk 🤗🤗🤗.
    We ambled onwards towards Vila Praia de Ãncora, where we stopped for lunch. This was some 10km on from our starting point, and we'd added a couple of kilometres finding the right path, so we were 12km up by the time we fell into a café. Menu del dia (not sure what it is in Portuguese) was pork shoulder, rice, salad and chips 😋. I'd been craving chips, so I was made up! It was very tasty but I just couldn't finish it 🙄 although I did have a good go at the chocolate mousse for dessert!😄
    A stop at Moledo for a very special, personal Pilgrim's passport stamp from Gary (who brought out his whole Beatles Collection to show us, and asked me if I'd ever met Paul McCartney...) took us into Caminha, where we stopped for a cold drink before finding the water taxi from Portugal to A Guarda in Spain. The salesman had his patter down to a T and, as soon as there were 5 of us, led us down to the beach and the boat. Nothing massive, just a thing with an engine, that sped us to the opposite side in about 5 minutes. Marcel was very happy to be making an appearance and readily took control of the crossing 😂😂😂.
    As we'd gained an hour in just 5 minutes, we decided to get a taxi to our accommodation. No such luck, despite our efforts, so we had to walk about 4km, up up and up (or so it seemed), through lovely eucalyptus woods, and into A Guarda. We were shattered! We'd ended up walking 26km, often through driving rain and wind, but we were there, albeit 40 minutes too late for check in🙄. A pretty difficult telephone call later, neither of us being able to fully understand the other - where's our Jan when you need her? - and we were in our room. There were other pilgrims in the apartment so we went to explore and meet them.
    Time to shower now, then find something to eat, so back to our room we went... the door being as close as we got to our belongings because we couldn't open it!😱🙄😂 What to do??? A call and a few messages to our host (try again, she said, like we hadn't been doing that for 10 minutes!) and she promised she was on her way, but it'd take 30 minutes. 45 minutes later... approximately 60 minutes later she and her husband arrived. By this time, everyone had had a go - the blokes probably wondering what all the fuss was about 😂.
    "Sternest Headteacher faces when they arrive, Julie," says I! But, of course, they were lovely and apologetic, all in Spanish, of course, but still they couldn't open our door! Phew! Long story short, they managed to bodge it so our door opened, but there was no way we were ever shutting it, so we slept with it jammed open! But what a night! What a day, actually! It ended with a small snack and a beer, so all's well that ends well!
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  • Day 8

    Hi di hi!

    May 15 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We slept for an extra hour, having lost it yesterday, and so left later than usual. Today was a 20km day, most definitely! After a lovely Spanish breakfast (freshly squeezed orange juice and tostada with jamon and queso), we got on our way. It was already quite late, but it didn't matter, it was only 20km!
    A walk up and out of A Guarda took us to a rocky headland, which was absolutely stunning. The waves were pretty fierce but the sun was shining and we were doing well. Neither of us had worn our waterproof trousers, but had them handy, just in case... (yesterday's 'light' showers were far from it😱). Well, the time came to put them on, and thank goodness we did - the rain lashed down and the wind blew. We had a great time trying to get our trousers on without the wind blowing them, or us, away 😂. Honestly, it was amazing and absolutely spectacular, but a massive pain to walk in! Still, we soldiered on and on and on... there was almost nothing to stop for until we reached Oia, 15km away. No wonder our feet were killing us! We'd had no option but to carry on walking because there was nowhere to stop in the rain. Not the nicest day for walking!
    We stopped at the small Ermita de San Sebastian, just before Oia, and Julie lit a candle for Nigel 🥰. It was good to take the weight off our feet and sit quietly, remembering.
    It had started raining again then, so we walked as quickly as our poor little feet could carry us into Oia, where we found a sandwich for lunch.
    It didn't take long for us to convince ourselves that a bus or taxi to our accommodation at Mougas Camping was a pretty good idea. It was only supposed to be 6.5km... well, after a taxi ride of at least 10km, we finally arrived. No, we're not camping! We have a small room with a balcony and the most amazing view!
    Vigo tomorrow, but that's nearly 40km and I think I'd cry if I had to do that, so we're walking as far as we want (probably to Nigrán, about 20km away) and taking a bus.
    The boys arrive tomorrow and I don't know who's in for the greatest shock...😱😂😘
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  • Day 9

    At last! Some sun 🌞

    May 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We had a really good night's sleep at the campsite, sharing our room with Maria from Peru (although she's lived in Germany for over 20 years). Half way through the night we were woken by howling wind and rain - all good because we were snug in our beds and hopefully that was the weather front passing, leaving us with lots of dry weather when we woke up!
    We weren't disappointed because the sky was blue and it was beautiful walking weather - we still had the breeze from the Atlantic but the sun glasses were on 👏.
    After about half an hour of roadside walking, we took a right turn up into some amazing woodland. The path became large (and small) boulders, grass and mud, but it was such beautiful countryside, albeit quite steep in places, that nothing mattered. We wandered through small hamlets, past sheep and a couple of goats, but no pop-up stalls for a drink stop in the sunshine. Still, it didn't seem long before we reached Baiona, a seaside town, where we stopped at a café for our first tortilla of this camino, and were we disappointed? Yes!🙄😂 It was very dry, but that didn't stop us eating it! Sid had a good go, too!
    We found the Tourist Information for a stamp in our Pilgrim Passports and were off again, on the lookout for a Gelato shop. But there were none to be found 😫 until, according to Google maps, Playa America, close to Nigrán, so we headed there! Were we disappointed? Yes!🙄😂 It was closed... But we found a small café/restaurant place and stopped there for a cold drink.
    We'd already decided this was as far as we were walking and were ready to take the bus into Vigo. We used our phones to find the closest bus stop to Vigo, found the timetable, and took ourselves off. The bus stop wasn't signed but we were definitely there, so when the bus arrived, and drove straight past us, with the driver giving us a shake of the head and a finger wag, we started looking again! Another bus passed us, so we walked a km or so onwards to the next 'real' bus stop. Whilst we were waiting there, the heavens opened, so it was a quick change into waterproofs. Despite sitting there for well over an hour, probably closer to 2, not one bus arrived, despite the timetable telling us they would🙄. What next? A taxi!!! We went into the local tobacconists and two very lovely Spanish ladies booked us one, which quickly arrived and sped us off to our accommodation here in Vigo. But... they keys were at the office, a 10 minute walk away... Another lovely lady (I'm in 2B, come for a coffee!), said through translation with her neighbour in 2C, that the owner of the flat was Galician and should 'have the balls' to come here😂. Anyway, we walked quickly to the office, picked up our keys, and walked back - all in the pouring rain. We were drenched!
    A quick trip to the supermarket next door for provisions found the lady again, who began to tell everyone who we were😂. But we're in, and it's great. We've finally managed to wash our clothes (thanks, Yvonne🤗), and now we're waiting for Luke and Ray to join us. But they've been having their own issues getting here, so are a day late! It's now our rest day and I've been out to find something healthy for breakfast, only to discover (remember) it's Galician literature day so all the supermarkets are closed🙄, so more carb it is... And it's due to rain heavily tomorrow when we start walking again... 😂😂😂
    Looking on the bright side, my foot's healed 👏🙏👏.
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  • Day 12

    Day 1 for Luke and Ray!

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Yesterday ended with the dishwasher... But more of that later!
    After a brilliant night's sleep on Thursday night and a slow get-up, Julie and I waited around for Luke and Ray to arrive. Our diet has been sooooo carb based, we were looking forward to being able to eat some fruit, veg, yoghurt for breakfast - anything but bread and pastries, as lovely as they are! But it was not to be as it was Galician Literature Day, so croissants it was!🙄😂
    Luke and Ray arrived just after midday, and after a quick catch-up, we all decided to go out for something to eat. We enjoyed our first camino beer together and ended up at a Chinese café, where Julie and I were able to enjoy a salad and the boys something oriental 😋😋😋. There followed a search for a gelato shop for dessert. They were few and far between and, because Ray had decided he wanted to put his feet into sand, we ended up walking about 5km to the nearest beach thinking we may have found something there. On our rest day! Still no gelaterias to be found but the sun had decided to show its face, so it was lovely to sit by said beach (all 50m² of it!) and enjoy a cold drink - water and cokes all round! Of course, we still had a 5km walk back to the apartment, but we did manage to find a gelato shop and stop for some delicious ice cream 🍦🍦🍦. Dinner was pasta pesto followed by a couple of glasses of Rioja in a local bar, then off home to bed before setting off on the boy's first camino day (our 10th...)
    BUT!!! As Julie and I walked into the apartment, we noticed lots of soapy bubbles falling from the dishwasher, all over the floor! 😱😱😱 'Someone' had loaded the dishwasher and, because we didn't have any dishwasher tablets, had put a few squirts of washing up liquid into the machine 🙄😂😂. A quick mop up and the decision to leave it until morning seemed the best option!
    After a fitful night's sleep, the dishes were removed (all squeaky clean), and the bubble removal began... The solution that worked best was to throw our bath towels in there, wipe out the bubbles. then put the machine through a quick 15 minute rinse cycle. Phew! So now you know what to do, should you find yourself in the same situation 🤔 😂😂.

    Today's walk to Redondela was Luke and Ray's first camino day, and it started with a walk past the docks then onwards and upwards, and round the corner and upwards, then round another corner and... you guessed it! Upwards! It had begun to drizzle so raincoats were put on, then it began to rain so waterproof trousers were put on, then it really began to bucket it down - we got pretty wet!
    It was only after 9km that we found a fab coffee shop in someone's front room, or so it seemed. By this time we were pretty hungry so we stopped for lunch. We sat with two girls Julie and I had met in Antas, and it was lovely to catch up with them.
    When we left the rain had stopped and the sun was doing its best to come out. The final 6 or 7km were a level or downhill slog into Redondela where we stopped to celebrate our first camino day together with a beer.
    We're staying in a great apartment that was decorated in the 60s, and it's ace!
    It's a celebration of puppets here at the moment - watch the video!
    We enjoyed supper out, with a quick whiz around the market stalls, and we're back for a good night's sleep before a lovely 20km tomorrow.
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  • Day 12

    Almost Great Weather!!!

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After a good night's sleep for some of us (I think two bears' bed was too hard🙄😂), we feasted on yoghurt and granola, and a little cake from our host, Gustav, before setting off on the 20km to Pontevedra. The weather was really kind for much of the way, and we were happy walking in just our tops (and other clothing!) - no fleeces or waterproofs for ages!
    We stopped at a café in Redondela for coffee and sellos (stamps for our Pilgrim Passports) and Luke was made up to be given FREE cake and croissant 🤗😋.
    We were soon walking through small hamlets and forests of eucalyptus, which were delightful. But this section of the camino was absolutely jam packed with pilgrims. Okay, it's Pentecost, and it's Sunday, but this was ridiculous. It was just like the last 100km of the Frances - filled with very noisy Spaniards (sorry🙄😉) who were out for a walk and not respecting the peace of the camino! One woman in particular just didn't stop taking/shouting, and it made a good section of the walk disappointing.
    We stopped after about 9km in Arcade for a drink and, thankfully, the 'tour' seemed to vanish 👏👏👏. We could hear a brass band playing in the distance and wondered why... and as it got closer we realised that, as it was Pentecost, the statue of the Virgin Mary was being displayed and walked through the town. It was too far away to see properly, but the town seemed to be celebrating noisily. (We'd also heard lots of gun fire and reckon it marked the start and/or end of the procession!)
    We left the café after a chat with some pilgrims from Dunstable and stopped at a panaderia to buy our lunch - sandwiches and extremely large chocolate croissants para llevar - and continued just 1.5km to Pontesampio where we crowded the Medieval bridge. This then led us up through some beautiful villages and past buildings built from stone, whose walls were probably metres thick. The roads through the first hamlet were narrow and the houses were really interesting. In fact, the 'Way' was great. There was quite a lot of uphill walking (Luke and Ray, who are young and very fit, walked on ahead with no problems whilst Julie and I kept each other company at a more sedate pace😂). We passed quite a few pop-up stalls selling everything from food and drink to painted shells and stones, umbrellas, lanyards and every kind of pilgrim paraphernalia you can imagine!
    Lunchtime was a very welcome break. The boys had found a couple of granite rocks to sit on, so we enjoyed our sandwiches there, not knowing that the area behind us had been used by countless pilgrims as a toilet stop 🙄😱😂. Sid also enjoyed a few bites of my chorizo butty!
    Then it was onwards and ever upwards until we reached a cross that marked the highest point of the day's walk - the cross, however, wasn't anywhere to be found! But, thankfully, from that point on it was downhill all the way towards Pontevedra, our stop for the night. We stopped at a beautiful little chapel to sit quietly and appreciate all we'd seen, done and heard, then chose to take the green route into town. It wasn't so much green as brown and muddy! But it was away from the road and, as long as you were careful where you placed your feet, you could appreciate the trees and the river. This eventually led us to Pontevedra where the boys were waiting for us. We found a bar for the obligatory celebration beer and the barmaid also gave us THE BEST plate of chips with loads of salt, tomato sauce, mayonnaise and mustard. They were gorgeous 😋😋😋.
    Our accommodation is a fab little flat. We've washed our dirty clothes (see Ray's genius drying socks hack), been to a Pilgrim's Mass (didn't understand a word but it was very nice!) and eaten at an Italian restaurant. Ice cream or Pastel de Nata followed and now here we all are, tucked up in our beds and ready for the Spiritual Variant tomorrow. It's going to be very interesting... (big hills😱). I'll let you know!
    Oh, and Luke said it wasn't him (see previous post on dish washers😂)
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