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They’re Back! Spanish Easter
  • Phil Merrell
apr. – maj 2025

They’re Back! Spanish Easter

We’re returning to Spain at the start of the Holy Week. A couple of weeks in Spain, a couple of weeks in Portugal meeting up with my brother & Debbie’s sister. Then the women head for a Paris and the guys walk a short Camino de Santiago. Læs mere
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  • Start på rejsen
    13. april 2025
    Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende

    Getting There

    13. april, Spanien ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Well, it wasn’t the worst departure we have inflicted on ourselves, but it was up there. Too many irons in the fire. Up late packing, up before 5 to drive to Pasco to start the airline/time zone change punishment process. Three flights, a train ride, 29 hours and we’re in Càceres, Spain. Beautiful train ride. The countryside is gorgeous green right now. Straight to bed.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Estrella Arch, or Star Gate
    Menu del Dia!Typical Caceres Street Scene During Holy WeekProcession, but can't get closeRelight!Later, from our balcony

    Càceres Recovery Day

    15. april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    After a 10 hour sleep of the dead we’re up and stumbling! Low expectations for this travel recovery day. We’re staying just outside the walls of the old city. Wandered around, got some lunch, bought groceries, got a local sim for my phone. So now I can post up these reports.
    We planned this trip to Spain and Portugal to start a few weeks later. When we realized Easter is late this year, we decided to go earlier and catch the tradition and pageantry of Easter in Spain. The holy week involves religious processions through the city, day and night. We tried to see one of them tonight, but were way back in the crowd. We chased around trying to get ahead of it, but never guessed the right streets. We finally gave up and headed home around 10:30. Just before going to bed, the procession came marching up our street and we got a great view from the balcony! The crowd was much reduced nearer to midnight. The attached clip is a small portion of the procession. The procession of penitents (white hats) was several times longer than what is shown. The statues being carried reside in churches and are brought out on a few holy days each year. It’s quite a tradition and the amount of effort and coordination involved is impressive.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    In the old city
    Rained Out

    Càceres Day 3

    16. april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Long sleep again last night. Mostly recovered from the voyage here. Wandered around enjoying the old city buildings and walls. Off and on rain showers as the day progressed. Cooked up a big pasta dinner before heading out for the evening’s holy week processions… which were rained out. Apparently the rain in Spain stays mainly on the plain.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Old CityA Penitent for the Virgin Mary ProcessionThe Virgin Mary procession coming through the main squareThe Last SupperLast SupperLast SupperLast SupperAngel of the EucharistAngel of the Eucharist - Mostly Teenage BearersVirgin MaryAfter dinner encounter with the Passion Story processionA PenitentThe GardenThe ScourgingCrucifixtionDamas for the Virgin Mary

    Holy Thursday

    17. april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Getting our sea legs now in this new time zone. Did I mention that I don’t do jet lag well? Went out wandering in the old city after breakfast. Visited a 12th century Arab home restored into a museum. Got down to the main square to see parts of a procession for the Last Supper, the Angel of the Eucharist , and the Virgin Mary. This time we sussed out a good location ahead on the route and had a good view. It became clear how important this is to the people involved and the people watching.
    After dinner we went out for a walk and encountered another procession portraying the rest of the Passion of Christ; the garden, arrest , scourging, and crucifixion. We stayed and watched, you couldn’t get through the crowds and past the procession if you wanted.
    Then, walking home we ran into the crowds and another procession for the Virgin Mary. They just kept coming!
    There is a procession starting just after midnight tonight, and one starting at 5:00 AM inside the old city that’s supposed to be impressive. We’re going to try to get up in time to catch the tail end of it. We’ll see if that works out! If we miss it there are 3 more after that.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    1Rained out early morning procession
    Setting up for a processionLeft turn gateOldThe Star ChamberCàceres Old City StreetCàceres Old City Streets

    Good Friday (updated)

    18. april, Mediterranean Sea ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    So we actually got up at 6:30 this morning and went out to watch the special procession through the old city that I mentioned in the last post. Aaand… rained out! Not really pouring, but they are naturally pretty careful with their centuries old icons. Interestingly, if they cancel taking the icon out, they still carry the icon marching in place in the church for the same amount of time the route would have taken. No slacking off just because it rained!

    So we walked around, had pastries and coffee, and just relaxed. Went to the excellent Museum of Càceres, saw yet another procession forming up, had lunch, and walked and walked. All of f the processions I know of were cancelled today.

    Càceres is a really nice small city. Tomorrow we take a 1/2 hour train ride to Mèrida. It’s a lot smaller than Càceres and has a lot of Roman ruins. A couple more days of dicy weather and then it’s supposed to dry out.

    UPDATE: I added a couple of photos forgot to include. We came across a poster for a Penitent Pub Crawl, with map and all. I guess they’re making sure they have sufficient sin for the penitence they are going to do?    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
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    On To Mérida

    19. april, Spanien ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Said goodbye to Càceres and got on a train to Mérida. About a half hour ride south. Weather is improving, but still it’s spring. Not much exciting to say. We got settled in to our new digs, ate, and spent the night relaxing.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Temple of Diana
    Temple of DianaDude in a Nearby RuinHis BuddyThe Dama's of the Virgin Wear White on EasterHometown Easter ProcessionRoman Villa TileMore Roman Villa TileGladiators We Are NotTheaterTheaterEaster DinnerWell/Cistern for the Muslim FortressInside the Roman/Visgoth/Muslim/Christian FortressThe Roman Bridge Over the Guadiana River

    Easter

    20. april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We took a tour of Mérida this morning, to get the lay of the land. Merida is all about ancient Roman culture and ruins. It was founded, among other reasons, as a retirement community for Roman soldiers who had finished their service. The archaeological joke is that it was the Florida of the Roman Empire.

    Right off the bat we ran into an Easter procession. It was definitely less formal and more of a small town event than the processions we saw in Càceres. But those involved were serious. It appeared to be an important and emotional event for this community.

    Saw a relatively well preserved Roman villa that showed some detail of daily life in the day and had some beautiful tile work. Saw some bathes, the circus (racetrack), amphitheater (gladiators), and the incredible theatre.

    It is a custom here to dine out on Easter. Of course we had no reservations and everything was full. We found a nice restaurant that allowed us to sit at one of their tapas tables and dug into a long lunch of interesting dishes and local wine. Afterwards we walked down to the park along the river, saw more historic things, went home and went to bed.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Check Out the Name of the Street
    Plaza de EspañaTrajan's Arch

    Monday After Easter- Mérida

    21. april, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today was a day of rest and housekeeping. Slept in, hung out, did laundry. Got out in the afternoon and walked looking at old parts of town and people generally. Pretty slack day.

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Roman Villa
    Paint that lasts 2,000 years!Stairs go down to a summer bedroom that's coolerTile and painted wallsTile ArtworkWhat the tile artwork looked like beforeIn the AmphitheaterAmphitheater EntranceThe TheaterTheater, with Inspectors2That Roman Look?1Cool Tiles on This HouseA Quiet Side StreetAfter a Long Day...... Time to RelaxOnly In Mérida!

    Last Day in Mérida

    22. april, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Went to a different Roman villa this morning. Definitely an upper class family. Lots of beautiful tile and remains of painted walls. It’s hard to imagine that people just abandoned this city with all of its magnificent buildings and theaters and temples at the end of the Roman empire.

    We went back to the amphitheater and theater and spent some time there. We saw them briefly when we were on the tour, but that wasn’t enough. Truly amazing, and both are missing their upper two thirds.

    The afternoon we went through the Museum of Roman Art. Then, after refreshments, home early to pack. On the way back we went past the Temple of Diana, where a grade school dance class was performing.

    Tomorrow we take an early train south to Zafra, where we catch a bus to Córdoba.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Good Morning
    View of the Mérida aqueduct ruins, looking over a railroad junk yard.Our Ride to CórdobaUnnamed Little Castle Over an Unnamed Small TownBeautiful Streets and Homes1Beautiful StreetsRoman Bridge Looking Back At the Cathedral/MosqueTower of the Cathedral/MosqueStuck Behind Another Easter ProcessionEaster Procession Cleanup

    To Córdoba

    23. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Caught the train to Zafra early this morning. We had time for a coffee and pastry there before catching a bus to Córdoba. Spanish busses are much nicer than in the US. Clean, and better seats than the airlines.

    Córdoba is a good sized city. We’re staying in the old city, with narrow streets and alleys. A lot of the houses and alleys are decorated with plants and flowers, really beautiful.

    The weather has finally changed to warm, Mediterranean. Nice after the cool, rainy weather we’ve seen so far. It got up to 80 today. Now we can complain about the heat!

    Walked around the Old City after dinner. Walked across the old Roman bridge, still a magnificent main pedestrian walkway connecting the parks along the river.

    On the way back to our hotel we got caught behind an Easter procession, again! They were moving one of the platforms they use to carry a religious statue, presumably to storage until it’s needed for the next religious procession. Even empty, it still looks like a lot of work!    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    A Side Door to the Cathedral/Mosque
    Mosque/Cathedral - Zoom in, loong buildingMosque/CathedralM/CM/C - Zoom in for detailM/CM/CM/CM/CM/CTile Display in the Alcazar (fortress)1Garden of the AlcazarAlcazar GardenNice Balcony

    Córdoba 2 - Mosque/Cathedral

    24. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Had a tour lined up for this morning to get oriented in Córdoba. First stop was the Mosque/Cathedral. What a mind blower! It is so unique and beautiful. There was a Christian church on the site originally. The Arab people took over most of Spain in the mid 700’s, and built this huge mosque. It was expanded a couple of times before the Christian people took control of Spain in the 13th century. Fortunately, they resisted the temptation to tear this beautiful building down and build a traditional cathedral. It has been modified to reflect a more Middle Ages gothic/renaissance chic, but the heart of the original building is still intact. It is massive!

    Also went to the Alcazar, or fortress. It’s still called by the Arab name, even though the only parts that haven’t been completely rebuilt are the gardens.

    Spent most of the rest of the day walking around through the narrow streets of the old city.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Wedding Stan Old Church
    Old City Wall

    Córdoba - Last Day

    26. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Lazy day. Slept in and got a late start on our incredibly tight schedule of wandering around the streets and alleys of the old city. We were aiming to do a church crawl on a list of famous Córdoban churches, but the churches were all booked up with weddings. Yes, wedding bells were ringing and people were putting on the dog. Tents, fancy cars, and fancy fancy duds! So we abandoned our initial plan and went with our fall back plan of AIMLESS wandering. Lots of courtyards and cool old streets. A siesta in the afternoon, and then… laundry! Yes, we’re leaving for Portugal in the morning and will be moving more often. I’m proud of how light both Debbie and I packed, but the trade off is, less clothes means more laundry days.

    Up early tomorrow to get the car and drive to Evora.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende

    To Portugal

    27. april, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Picked up the car at the train station and headed out of town for Portugal. We drive mostly on back roads and stop in small towns for coffee or food. There are a lot of old castles, forts, and churches that are not shown on most maps that are fun to encounter. Most are in a wide variety of upkeep. We finally made it to our destination, Evora, Portugal after dark.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Obligatory Roman RuinsLibrary of OLD BooksCathedralView over the roofs of the University of EvoraNo Power = Romantic Evening

    A Strange Day in Evora

    28. april, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Well, the day started out pretty normal. We were walking around the city visiting places when the power went out around 11 AM. At first we just noticed it was darker in most of the places we were going to see. By mid afternoon, rumors were flying that it was a cyberattack, that Russia was attacking Europe, that the entirety of Europe was down, that the military had been called up… But with the power out, there was no news coming in. We stopped talking pictures, turned our phones off to save battery, and tallied up our resources.

    There were basically two ways the Portuguese people were reacting. They either lined up at local shops to stock up on food, or they lined up at the bars to drink. I am ashamed to admit that we stood in the wrong line and bought canned tuna, saltines, and oranges (what was left) to tide us through the apocalypse. Having safeguarded our future, we then got in the correct lines and had a limited menu dinner out (what they were still serving) with some pretty good wine. Then we continued walking around the old town, visiting monuments and parks, and did our normal stuff until dark. At our hotel they gave us candles to light our room. Shortly after we got to bed, the power came back on. So we’re now taking orders for the finest quality imported canned tuna. Let me know how many cans you want! Seriously though, it did make us consider what we would do if a historical event overtook us in a foreign country.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Dolls
    Church TileNata - the Portuguese National PastryMore DollsBones

    On To Sintra

    29. april, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    We spent the morning in Evora visiting a few sites that were closed yesterday (closed Monday, or the power outage). A church near our hotel has beautiful tile work that Portugal is famous for. The church was a hospital for the poor, started by a religious order the 1500’s. When Portugal nationalized healthcare in the 70’s, the order cashed out of the healthcare business and bought the government a new hospital. Their meticulous records over the ages were the source for a lot of research.

    Another stop before we left Evora was the Capela do Ossos, or Chapel of the Bones. The Franciscan Order made this chapel in the early 1800’s, digging up the bones of around 5,000 monks. The general theme of the place was we are all mortal, pay attention to what is in front of you and live for today. It was generally more uplifting than macabre.

    After that, we made an uneventful but expensive drive to Sinatra. Portugal has lots of toll roads and bridges.

    An interesting thing we have noticed in Portugal is an interest in dolls. The church with the tiles, the Capel of Bones, and another church have large displays of dolls. Some are rather creepy looking. When we got to Sinatra, our hotel also has a doll display.

    We had to drive through Lisbon to get to Sintra, but it went really smoothly. Sintra is hilly. The whole town is up or down. Had a very good dinner and turned in early.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Sintra is STEEP! Moorish Castle at Top
    Pena Palace EntranceDebbie and Her Newest FriendWho Had Offered to Take Our PhotoPena Palace, Distant OceanDon't Know the Story, But This Guy Surely Has OneDinner With the King Anyone?View of LisbonA Minor Nobleman's Palace in SintraGreat Dinner - With Vegetables!

    A Day in Sintra

    30. april, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We rode the city bus on a winding narrow road up the steep hillside to Pena Palace on the top of the hill. Beautiful green, semitropical forest and trails going everywhere. The palace location is spectacular. It looks over Lisbon, the ocean, the countryside, and the surrounding hills. The palace is of course, amazing. The crowds and feeling of being herded, less so. Those darn tourists! We are starting to have the conclusion that places near or in large cities are a trade off between coolness and crowdedness.

    Had another great dinner. Octopus for me and fish for Debbie. A big difference between Spanish and Portuguese cuisine is Portuguese has vegetables. In Spain most of the dishes are meat or fish, with fries. Other than an “ensalada mixta”, a very common, very consistent, and quickly very boring salad of iceberg lettuce, canned corn, carrots, egg, and canned tuna, it’s hard to find any vegetables when dining out in Spain. We have been reveling in well cooked vegetable sides with our meals since getting to Portugal. OK, enough whining!
    Positive Note: The rumors about Portuguese pastries being exceptional are understated!    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Downtown Sintra
    Sintra National PalaceSintra National PalaceNational Palace Hall of Noble Family HeraldsA Happy LionA Calm Day at NavaréThe Church of Santa Cruz in CoimbraBar/cafe at the Church of Santa Cruz at Closing Time

    Sintra to Coimbra

    1. maj, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    May Day is a national holiday in most of Europe. We visited the National Palace in Sintra this morning. Headed out the winding, circuitous route out of town, on our way to Coimbra.

    We went via Navaré, a fishing town with unusual seabed geologic features that can cause 100 ft tall waves for surfing. The wind conditions have to be just right… and they weren’t. The sea was beautiful, but pretty much flat. We continued on to Coimbra and got there after dark.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    1700's Cutting Edge Physics
    Rooms and Rooms of High Tech InstrumentsBotanical GardensWait for it... Debbie

    A Day in Coimbra

    2. maj, Portugal ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Coimbra is full of tradition. It’s the oldest university in Portugal and the second oldest in Europe, established around 1300. University life dominates the old part of town. The students wear black capes everywhere, giving it a Hogwarts kind of vibe. We spent most of the day at the university. The early physics and chemistry buildings have been preserved, with an incredible array of “cutting edge” apparatuses used to develop knowledge of physics from the 17th century on. Rooms and rooms of devices, old lecture rooms and history. Way cool.

    We dodged heavy rain and occasional thunderstorms all day. It has been a wet spring so far. This evening we went out walking and ended up at the cafe that used to be part of the Church of Santa Cruz, where there was live music. Student singing groups were performing fado, a mournful Portuguese singing style. It appeared to be a competition. Each group marched in with their own flag, sang a song or two, and marched out. I don’t think it was classic fado, but it was enjoyable. Afterwards, the group that won climbed into the fountain outside and sang another song.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Main Church of Bom Jesus at the Top of the Stairs
    Main Alter of Bom JesusPeaceful Walking. Handrail is Living TreesA Small Chapel in the WoodsHercules Astride a SerpentBraga BelowWaiting For SunsetThere We Go!Three Piece Desert - The Portuguese Really Get It About Sweets!!Bom Jesus

    To Braga

    4. maj, Spanien ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We drove up to Braga, to a place on the hill overlooking the city. Bom Jesus is a complex of churches, gardens, trails, and a few old hotels. It is really a peaceful place. There is a beautiful stairs that comes up from way down the hill. More on that tomorrow. Got some exercise walking the trails through the beautiful forest. Had dinner at the hotel restaurant overlooking the city. We are staying one night up here.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Bom Jesus Stairs Near the Top
    Looking Down Over The Upper StairsThe Upper StairsHalfway DownThe Upper StairsThe Lower Stairs SectionThe Water Powered ElevatorGoing Up!Opening The Water Valve To Fill The Ballast TankThe Very Bottom of the StairsAnother Church at the Top of The HillPorto is a City!Douro River Runs Through PortoFamily Dinner in PortoPortoPorto

    Bom Jesus and On To Porto

    5. maj, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We spent the morning on the stairs at Bom Jesus. The stairs are beautiful and long. There are chapels for the stations of the cross as you go up. There is a tradition of walking the stairs on your knees for penance. My opinion is that you would have to have been pretty bad.
    A cool element is the water powered elevator for those who don’t want or can’t make the stairs. Two small cars, one at the top and one at the bottom, are connected by cables. They fill a water tank in the top car and the extra weight makes it go down, pulling the bottom one up. Then they let the water out of the one on the bottom, fill the top one, and do it all again. When they let the water out it sounds like a giant toilet flushing.

    Then on to Porto to meet up with family! My brother and Debbie’s sister are also married and we met up this evening in Porto. Great to see them!    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Douro River in Porto
    Trying to Impress HerTiles on Ordinary Houses

    A Birthday in Porto

    6. maj, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today was Debbie’s birthday. We started out at a park overlooking the Duero River and walked around town for a while. After lunch we had an exciting cab ride to the beach. Lots of exciting action and commentary from the driver! It was nice to get out and see the ocean. Had a great birthday dinner there.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Trains on Strike
    Sao Bento Train StationTrain Station2Pastry Overdose!Porto CathedralSalted Cod. - A Portuguese National ObsessionResting Our Dogs

    Douro Valley Epic Voyage

    7. maj, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    (Note - posted late) We got an early start this morning for a planned train trip up the Duero Valley. Got to the station to find the trains had gone on strike. So no Duero Valley on this trip. But we did get to see the gorgeous tiles in the old train station. Afterwards, to overcompensate for our disappointment we went to the nearest pastry shop and gorged ourselves on almost one of everything they had. Gotta hand it to the Portuguese in pastry.

    After that, we went to the Cathedral of Porto and continued walking off pastry around town for the rest of the day.    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Church at Vilar do Conde
    Another, but OlderBuy this hot sauce!Entrance to an excellent restaurant with good food in a beautiful courtyard dining roomBobbin Lace MakerMaking lace - incredible dexterity!!Watch the design grow as she worksLocal women who meet most days make bobbin laceThis town was once a ship building powerhouse

    Vilar do Conde

    8. maj, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    (Posted really late) So we’ve been getting tired of the crowds in Porto. Yesterday, a guy in a small vegetable shop was talking about how nice his little village outside of Porto was. So today we decided to get out of the city and drove out to Vilar do Conde, a town just up the coast. It turned out to be a great choice. Some interesting old buildings, and it is the bobbin lace capital of the world! Women of the town have a century old tradition of making beautiful lace using the bobbin method. Watch the videos and be amazed! A whole room full of women who show up almost every day to make lace. It was also a major ship building center centuries ago. They have a replica sailing ship and a good maritime museum. All in all it was a great day and so nice to get out of town and the away from the crowds.
    This is our last day together. Tomorrow Dale and I drive back into Spain and take trains to the start of the Camino de Santiago, French route at Saint Jean Pied du Port. While we plan to walk for a couple of weeks, the women are headed for Paris. Who is making the best choice? We’ll see!    Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    Morning in Saint Jean
    Heading out of Saint JeanIt's Steeper Than It LooksPart Way UpMade it to Orisson, Beer Time!View From OrissonSheep Dog Working!

    Up To Orisson

    10. maj, Frankrig ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    (Posted 6/6/25) We had a pretty easy start today. Only five miles, but it was all uphill. We stayed at an albergue in the mountains called Orisson. Very pretty location. Some rain off and on, nothing serious.Læs mere

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  • Phil MerrellThey’re Back! Spanish EasterRejsende
    The Start of the Day. It's Steeper Than it Looks
    This Guy Drives a Coffee Truck Part Way Up the Hill. A Welcome Break.It's as Steep as it Looks. Nearing the Top... We ThoughtUp in the PyreneesLunch at a Fountain Up TopReally Almost the TopThe Top!!Down There is Where We Sleep TonightRoncesvalles Monastery. Sleeps 180 in Pretty Good StyleRoncesvalles Sleeping Accommodations

    Over the Hill to Roncesvalles

    12. maj, Frankrig ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    (Posted 6/6/25) The Pyrenees where we crossed are not technically challenging, it’s just a long slog. But slog on long enough and you’ll get it done. Then comes the hard part for me. Going downhill just kills my knees. We walked about 10 miles today, and the last 3 were steep down. By going slow, I made it in pretty good shape. Dale, not as much. He slipped on a tree that was across the trail and fell downhill onto the log. Banged his ribs pretty good. We limped our way into Spain, down to Roncesvalles, a huge old monastery that is really well run.Læs mere

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