The Åkes do Europe 2016

May - June 2016
A 47-day adventure by Jason and Danielle Read more
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  • Day 14

    Sofienberg, Oslo, Norway

    May 16, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Day 13:

    We took a speed train from Sweden and arrived in Oslo today. Everyone had the day off and the celebrations for Syttende Mai had already begun! We settled into our apartment and for some reason, our host almost immediately directed us to the hipster area of town... Grünerløkka. After a little self reflection, we gave in and walked there, looking for a place to have dinner. Strangely enough, we ended up getting mexican food. I guess you can't take the SoCal out of us...Read more

  • Day 15

    Oslo, Norway

    May 17, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Day 14:

    Syttende Mai, Norwegian Constitution Day, Nasjonaldagen! However you choose to say it, Norwegians go hard. We were woken up by a marching band making their way into the courtyard to put up the flag and play. After a breakfast of champions, we made our way to town down streets lined with flags. The main event for the day is a children's parade they have been doing since 1870. This year, over 60,000 were in the parade, representing different schools in the area! After standing in a crowd for a while, it was time to explore.

    We made our way to the opera house, which is pretty incredible. The roof is at an angle to the ground so people can walk all the way up to the top and get an amazing view of the harbor and the city. We relaxed with the view, then made our way to Sukkerbiten (the sugar cube) for a concert celebrating Norway and her diversity. After a few artists and some American guy with a weird little guitar, we headed back into the mayhem of town.

    Tired, sunburned, and in jeans, we thought a brewery would be an appropriate place to have dinner. We walked in to realize that it was, in fact, a fancy Italian restaurant in a building previously occupied by a big brewery... we rolled with it. We had cured meats worthy of a letter home and raviolis made with a combination of Norwegian and Italian words we didn't understand.

    It was a good day.
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  • Day 16

    Oslo, Norway pt II

    May 18, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Day 15:

    Today we had our morning coffee at this crafty place called Tim Wendelboe. Hands down, best coffee either of us has EVER had. Then we had a long wander to Vigeland Park. They call it the sculpture park and its filled with over 200 sculptures in bronze, granite, and wrought iron. On the way, we checked out the Royal Palace. They gave us mixed signals... on the signs it invited us to walk on the grass and even hug trees, but there were guards all over wielding some serious rifles. We're pretty sure the royal family was still there from yesterday, so that's pretty cool.

    We finally made it to Vigeland Park, and it was massive. Sculptures, trees, lawns, flowers, geese, a couple busses of asians, and penises. Lots of penises. At risk of triggering your dirty minds... the sculptures were all so detailed. Facial expressions, muscles, veins in the arms, hair... it was crazy. And to think, all of them were made by the same person, in so many different media!

    Tomorrow we leave early for the West Coast!
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  • Day 17

    Bergen, Norway

    May 19, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Day 16:

    This morning we caught an early train from Oslo to Bergen. It was a little stressful... Apparently it was "recommended" that we reserve seats, but the train was completely booked. We had to find seats that weren't taken and cross our fingers that we didn't get bumped out and have to stand! The conductor lady was a boss and let us sit in her reserved seats about halfway along the journey. So we could finally relax, enjoy the views, and have some train fika. The train went so quickly from the city, to countryside with crystal clear lakes, to huge snow covered mountains. And so. many. tunnels along the way. We reached up to about 1,500 meters above sea level before heading down towards Bergen. From one coast to another, through the mountains in 6 hours. It was so surreal.

    Side story, this guy forgot his bag on the train when he got off. Instead of telling conductor that he needed to go back on to get it, he decides to run back on the train, furiously grab it, turn around with a cartoonishly stressed out look on his face as the whistle blows, and sprint out, almost decking an old man on the way. Meanwhile, there is an older Norwegian woman losing her mind laughing. Right in the guy's face. Not a giggle, not hiding it, but watching him the whole way and expelling this bellowing laughter. It was a memorable occurrence.

    We got to Bergen and wandered up (and by up, I mean up a mountainside) to the flat we're staying at. We met our hosts, and most importantly, their husky. The view from our room is insane. Then we went to dinner at a cool little place down the street and had whale carpaccio!

    Its going to be a very earlt night, but we can't wait to walk around the town tomorrow!
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  • Day 18

    Bryggen, Bergen, Norway

    May 20, 2016 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Day 17:

    Today we woke up to the sound of rain. It was really lovely... until we considered that that meant we'd be walking in rain quite a bit today.

    But despite the rain, we went down the hill to town to check out the sights. We went through Bryggen, which is the iconic strip of buildings that will probably be the first couple pages of images that show up if you google "Bergen, Norway". They LOOK like quaint, old Norwegian houses, but they've all been repurposed to be souvenir shops. We didn't mind, though, it was about time that we acted like tourists.

    From there, we went to the St Mary's Church, built in the early 1100s. Apparently, other than a big fire in the 13th century, and a facelift last year, it really hasn't been touched since then. Then we made our way to a relic of when Bergen was the biggest city and port in Scandinavia, Bergenhus Festning. Its a fortress from the mid 1200s! I know we've written it more than once, but words honestly can't describe the feeling of touching an almost thousand year old building. We finally got our taste of Norwegian seafood, albeit in a not so traditional manner. Salmon, shrimp, and scallops in cioppino. It was more than necessary to warm us up!

    Soaked to the bone, it was time to call it an early day. And of course, sweet street art, as usual...
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  • Day 19

    Fjord Cruise

    May 21, 2016 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We woke up fairly early today to get to the docks in Bergen. Luckily, the rain had stopped and it was looking like the weather would be pretty good. The ship we're on is the MS Stavangerfjord. Apparently it can be used for either transport to Denmark or as a cruise, but the occasional port won't bother us. It should be fairly gloomy and rainy throughout, but that sort of adds to the whole experience.

    We are fortunate to have a starboard side room with a big window, just close enough to hear the engines hum. A little exploring and a nap down, we went to the dinner buffet. It was madness, with all sorts of smoked salmon, crayfish, crab, shrimp, lamb, steak, of course like 17 types of cheese... and probably a few vegetables somewhere we didn't get to. Clearly, we stuffed ourselves as only Americans can.

    Full, satisfied, and a little bit uncomfortable, we walked around the deck until we were too cold. We caught a glimpse of what we THINK is the oldest stone church in Norway, but translating a captain over a loudspeaker who undoubtedly had a lip full of snus isn't the easiest, so it could've been anything. It looked cool though, and in the end, that's all that counts. We're also pretty sure he said waves would be up to 3 meters high tonight, so let's hope for the best...

    Now to raid this duty free shop for a kilo of Toblerone!
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  • Day 20

    Fjord Cruise pt II

    May 22, 2016 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Day 19:

    Today we woke up at sea on our way to Hirtshals, Denmark. We also realized that people are particularly crazy about breakfast buffets. With the little service we had in port, we looked at the map and realized how close we were to Göteborg, Sweden, and if we hopped off now, we could save ourselves a lot of train time...

    This hasn't been the spectacular view filled cruise we thought it was going to be, but no matter. Its still fun to float around with no worries. Plus, drunk Norwegians and Danes are pretty hilarious. Next time we'll have to do a day cruise through the more narrow and extreme looking fjords.
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  • Day 21

    Midnight Train to Oslo

    May 23, 2016 in Norway ⋅ 🌫 13 °C

    Day 20:

    After 5 buffets in a row, we are thoroughly stuffed. It has been nice to sit back and relax, but we're happy to be back in the real world now. We had a chance to look around Bergen sans rain this time, but 10 1/2 hours happens to be an extremely long time to wander away... A few old churches, lunch, and a revisit to Bryggen down, we still had about 7 hours to wait. As fate would have it, the Bergen train station is deep in construction, basically outdoors, and about 25 degrees. 10.59 could not come early enough! We were both excited to ride in a sleeper car for our first night train, but more than anything, we wanted that sweet love of a heater on our frozen toes. There is still a lot of travelling to do to get to mainland Europe, but a couple more connections and we should be arriving in Copenhagen tomorrow afternoon. Fingers crossed, of course...Read more

  • Day 22

    Copenhagen, Denmark

    May 24, 2016 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Day 21:

    Three weeks in and we haven't even come close to killing each other. We feel like that's just great. The sleeper train was pretty cool and almost exactly what we imagine an apartment in Tokyo would look like. Also, we believe that there should be one spelling for cities, no matter what language is being spoken. We wanted to go to Copenhagen, got on a train headed for Köpenhamn, and arrived in København.

    With the weather as great as it is, its hard not to fall in love with the city right away. A couple turns out of the station and we had already passed a seasonal amusement park, the national museum, and a drawbridge. We had a few hours to kill, heavy bags on our backs, and we found ourselves drawn to a big park along the river where people were sunbathing and drinking beer. Definitely something we could get used to... So we relaxed for a bit and enjoyed a couple beers outside at a craft beer place nearby.

    We eventually made our way to our apartment. It is situated near a winding canal and has a lovely view of a park big park. Copenhagen is a refreshing contrast of nature and architectual beauty. Having not had a hot meal in over a day, we searched for food nearby. Again, we went authentic with a pizza place. A small fiasco that resulted in a mile and a half sprint for Jason later, we're full, tired, and the sun actually sets at a semi-reasonable time here... I think my drift has been caught.

    We didn't take any pictures, though. Maybe we'll add extras from tomorrow.

    Pictures (25 May):
    Amalienborg, The Little Mermaid, Kastellet windmill, Christiansborg Palace, Frederiks Kirke, a nice stream thing
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  • Day 23

    Copenhagen, Denmark pt II

    May 25, 2016 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Day 22:

    Today we walked. Oh, did we walk! We also climbed. And oh, did we climb! Hold on for a long one, because here goes...

    The climbing was the first adventure of the day. After coffee, of course, we aren't suicidal. We, both being terrified of heights, decided it would be a good idea to climb to the top of Vor Frelsers Kirke (Church of Our Saviour). Its a truly beautiful church, but the spire we decided to climb up... is 90 meters tall. Terrifying. It had to be a sight watching us clutch the railing and watever finger holds we could get on the tower on the way up. We're sure the views from the top are tremendous, but that whole experience is sort of blocked from our minds at this point. After defying death, we waited in the church yard for a few minutes to hear the bells ring. The church contains the largest carillon in Northern Europe, which we're assuming means the bells that "sing" rather than a monotone chime.

    We then made our Slotsholmen, The Castle Islet. Its an awesome little island that has served as the location of the Danish government since the middle ages. The Christiansborg Palace is indescribably massive and beautiful. The other buildings were nice, as well, but its hard not to be dwarfed by the palace... This is also where the day took a strange turn. We had been told by everyone we talked to that we need to ride bikes around Copenhagen. So we rented a couple from one of the bike racks around town. After a few minutes of trying, we figure out that Danielle actually can't ride a bike... on cobblestones, on a bike that weighs 50 pounds and has an overzealous pedal assist. The bikes went back in the rack and we continued on foot a little surprised.

    Then, using our usual method of navigation, we followed a large copper spire to another beautiful church. This one was formerly St Nicholas Church, but since has become a restaurant and an art center. So we did the right thing and had a beer to cool off.

    Our next stop was Rundertårn, a 17th century observatory. We decided our height limit had already been reached, but there was an option to walk up to the top observation deck. And yes, walk the entire way. Its a sloped walkway turning its way up to the top. If you can't tell by now, we are thoroughly enjoying the old world architecture...

    Next, we sort of wandered our way into Kongens Have. Its a giant park surrounding the Rosenborg Castle. There were hundreds of people laying out, bbqing, playing lawn games, and just enjoying the sunshine. We have loved the way that these huge, beautiful royal parks are open and welcoming to the public. Imagine trying to light up a bbq and play bocce ball on the front lawn of the White House... The castle had a little moat with swans and ducks (and 11 ducklings who we tried to steal) that seems so harmless to us now, but you know it was made for business.

    After laying down in the grass for a bit, we continued our walking tour of the city. We again stumbled upon another cool church. This one was Jerusalem Kirken, which is actually a Methodist church... that seems like a confusing fact.

    After some navigational difficulties, we found our way to the Kastellet, a citadel built in the mid 1600s. Despite the fact it was used to fight our beautiful and innocent Swedes, it was amazing to see the focus on military infrastructure. Seeing the way the city was in the past, encircled by ramparts, with this giant citadel at the harbor really puts into perspective how intense the history is here.

    On a completely different note, yet just down the street... we visited The Little Mermaid. Its baffling to see tour bus after tour bus line up for thousands of people to see this small little bronze statue. Ironically, there is a giant boss of a lady statue right around the corner that should probably be getting more attention... Søfartsmonumentet. Like sailing monument, or something like that. Either way, she was awesome. Then a short walk down the road there's the Gefion Fountain, depicting a Norse goddess who turned her 4 sons into oxen and used them to plow out Zealand. So awesome!

    Then, as if we were looking for it, we walked straight to Amalienborg, the home of the Royal family. It's impossible for pictures to show how vast the plaza, for lack of a better word, bordered by the 4 palaces is. But it was large enough where the cars going through reached speeds that caused some serious concern. Lined up directly with the mounted statue of King Frederik was the genuinely awe inspiring Frederiks Kirke. From the outside, the massive dome and columns were amazing enough. But then we went inside... we honestly don't even want to post pictures, because they wouldn't do it justice. It was simply beautiful.

    A little bit shaken and a lotta bit hungry, we went to what could be described as the Bryggen of Copenhagen, Nyhavn. A boat lined canal with iconic Scandinavian buildings along the sides was the perfect spot for dinner. Smoked duck... yes please. And somehow mayonnaise is a standard dipping sauce for fries. Even more shocking, the mayo tastes awesome on fries! (Do not try this at home, homemade mayo and bestfoods don't compare) And we also found out that people don't take home their leftover food... we got given the strangest look as our server said "I don't know, let me check"...

    On the way back, we came upon the most legendary thing a city could possibly have: public trampolines. Little squares cut out of the concrete with rubber mesh on springs. Jason was too fat for it to work well, but still, incredible idea. Overshadowing that little jewel was our last experience of the day, and by far the most overdue: we witnessed the drawbridge ...drawing... or whatever. Everyone around us was annoyed, while we both put on a face like we had just seen a fork for the first time. Yes, that was a Little Mermaid reference.

    We got home after walking about 20 miles. We are exhausted. Happy, but exhausted. Crossed fingers that the crazy wind tonight doesn't bring in the rain clouds!
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