Japan

March - May 2024
A 77-day adventure by Kristyna Read more
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  • Day 31

    Day 30-31

    March 31 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Day 30

    We packed our bags and headed towards the bus station today to get on the bus bound for Hiroshima! After gobbling down a quick snack we were quickly rushed onto the bus and set off. The highway buses in Japan are absolutely silent! They ask you not to use your mobile phones in order to not disturb other passengers, so I got my book out and settled in for our 3 1/2 hour bus.

    After 3 long and painful hours we arrived at Hiroshima bus terminal where we grabbed our backpacks and headed off to our hotel. The best way to describe our hotel is like staying inside a cigar, the whole hotel stinks of cigarettes and smoke so not the most welcoming smell after being on a stuffy bus! We were also booked into a smoking room so we left the windows open for a few hours and the smell dissipated.

    We are in a great location right next to the peace park so we thought we’d wander through the peace park for the rest of the afternoon. For those who don’t know, the peace park is MASSIVE and is full of monuments. Wondering around looking at the monuments and seeing the famous dome we found our way to the “peace pond” which was also very close to the centre of the bomb dropping point. I hadn’t felt overwhelmed with emotion until this point when I saw the flowers people had laid out and the eternal fire burning in remembrance of the victims but to also honour the survivors. It was very heavy and a few tears were shed! It’s just unimaginable the horror that Hiroshima faced when the bomb was dropped, we also went to the memorial hall which is full of rotating pictures of the casualties some of which were just children. It’s really heartbreaking and really difficult to see. I’ve been slightly putting off writing about this in my blog as it’s hard to describe how devastating and tragic this event is and how it made me feel, it’s hard to put into words.

    We looked at going into the museum but the queues were insane so we decided we’d get up early to go to beat the crowds a little.

    Day 31

    Alarm blaring we quickly got up and out the door to make it to the memorial museum shortly after it had opened and even so there were still a lot of people! But I’m sure less than if we had gone later in the day. The museum starts with a display of what Hiroshima was like before and then after the bomb. After the bomb literally all that was standing was the famous dome everything was just in complete wreck and ruin with the landscape being purely rubble.

    I think the core facts that stood out to me from the history section of the museum were…

    •the bomb released the equivalent of 16 kilotonnes of TNT, that’s not even a figure I can get my head around.

    •the west disgustingly nicknamed the a bomb used on Hiroshima “little boy” due to its shape and size.

    • ground temperatures near the hypo centre of the bomb reached 4,000 degrees Celsius.

    •the bomb killed an estimated 140,000 people but also causing long term illnesses and suspected genetic cancer so the casualties from the bomb is actually still rising.

    Just those facts alone quite frankly made me feel sick to my stomach, but the exhibition that tipped me over the edge was the children’s exhibition. A tricycle, a pair of shoes, a lunch box, a text book all belonging to children killed in the blast and more distressingly many were not killed instantly and suffered a brutal few days before their bodies eventually gave up. I was in absolute floods and I just can’t comprehend how terrifying it is that we have created weapons like this and have used them. It was a really really hard museum to visit but absolutely the right thing to do.

    I think that’s all I’ll say on the museum but I’m sure you can all imagine that emotions were running very high today.

    We decided in order to lift the mood we should go and do something fun! So we took the boat from the peace park out to Miyajima island! We were hoping to stand outside but we had to sit inside which was a shame, as we cruised the sea we saw the island coming clearer and clearer until we docked and clambered off. It was nice to get the fresh air as we have found Hiroshima has been very smoggy and the island was definitely a breath of fresh air!

    The first thing that took us by surprise was that there were deer everywhere just wondering around and completely unbothered by people which was quite lovely! Trying to leave a decent distance between us and the deer we took a few snaps and then headed around the island to see the Torii gate that was in the sea! Very similar to the one we kayaked to but obviously this one is much more popular. We climbed onto a small rickety boat with no other forgien tourists and were passed the large and rather comical on us bamboo hats! Before heading out for a better view of the torii gate, this time we were actually taken through the gate which I was surprised by as we weren’t allowed to kayak through the last one! But it did mean we got a very close up view of the rustic red gate whilst our guide gave us what I’m sure was a very interesting and in depth description in Japanese!

    Having rockingly returned to the beach we walked by the large shrine which at high tide appears to float as it is on stilts! It’s a brillaint red that really shines! Walking around the back of it I yelped in delight when we saw FULLY BLOSSOMED CHERRY BLOSSOMS!!! FINALLY!!! They were absolutely beautiful! It was a great little taster of hopefully what is still to come! They are incredibly delicate little flowers and are actually more white than pink! There are different types and some are more pink than others but a few are very white! I was so over the moon that we finally saw some cherry blossoms as we have been crossing our fingers and toes to see them as the forecast was so wrong! This honestly made my entire day and I didn’t stop smiling for the rest of the day.

    After catching the boat back we wondered through the peace park to enjoy it at night in the peace and quiet and then headed back to chill in our room.
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  • Day 33

    Day 32-33

    April 2 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Day 32

    We spent the majority of today continuing to explore Hiroshima city in the beautiful sun and warmth! We strolled through Hiroshima castle grounds and enjoyed the cherry blossoms of several of Hiroshimas parks today. The sky was a brilliant blue and it was just nice to enjoy the peaceful parts of the city that are more hidden away to the main bulk of the tourists. We saw lots of tortoise and koi fish in one of the ponds which Jacob got very excited about and took lots of pictures of whilst I enjoyed a slightly strange. bridge! It was a very steep bridge and after gingerly climbing to the top I had to get a celebratory photo! We also stumbled across another small bamboo forest and so many stunning cherry blossoms it was just nice to finally not be seeing dead trees!!

    Day 33
    Today we decided to head out to one of the islands to explore and get away from the bustle of the city so we hopped on a ferry from Hiroshima port which took us to Ninoshima. Standing outside and enjoying the sea breeze and mountains dotting the horizon we arrived at Ninoshima port. I’m not sure I can call it a port- more of a pontoon! We wandered through the streets and the island was absolutely dead! Jacob and I have nicknamed it pensioners island as everyone else on the ferry was like 75+ and clearly come into Hiroshima for a morning coffee and a bit of shopping! The streets were deadly quiet with a few wondering cats here and there. The corrugated iron houses and slightly falling apart wooden huts lined the narrow streets. Ninoshima island is known for Akinokofuji mountain which is meant to give you stunning views back of the sea of all the islands and also of Hiroshima.

    So we found the start to the trail and began heading up, what started off as a nicely pathed route ended up quite the opposite!! After 20 minutes or so you are weaving through bamboo hoping you are vaguely heading in the right direction. Feeling relieved to leave the bamboo behind I thought the route would be a bit easier from here on, how wrong I was! For a while, you walk through an old very narrow river bed before having to scramble up rocks for the last 400 meters!! It was definitely tiring especially in the humidity but the views did not disappoint!! Reaching the summit I collapsed onto a rock and the view was absolutely breathtaking. The cityscape of Hiroshima in the distance surrounded by deep blue sea with islands jutting out and painting the horizon. It was gorgeous and once I’d stopped huffing and puffing it felt worth the hike!!

    Enjoying the view and having some snacks to help fuel us for the hike down we gingerly made our way back down the trail.

    After wandering back through the streets we discovered that there is only one restaurant on this island that was closed so we headed back to the port to catch the ferry back to mainland Hiroshima where we grabbed some food before turning in for the day. Another fun day exploring!
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  • Day 35

    Day 34-35

    April 4 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 34

    Today we woke up to the sound of the rain pounding and a thunderstorm and high winds warning on our phones so we layered up and headed out into the miserable weather! We spent most of today wandering around the shops and doing some thrifting before visiting Hiroshima prefectureral art museum which had some lovely pieces including a beautiful piece by Salvador Dali- so quite the collection! What I like about Japanese art museums is that within one exhibition you can have huge variety, from paintings to pottery to statues to jewellery it’s nice to have lots of different types of art all in the same exhibitions.
    After wandering around in the pouring rain it got to about 5pm and we decided we would be better served wrapped up in some dry clothes in doors so we bought a pot noodle for dinner and headed back in for a chilled evening and managed to escape the worst of the rain.

    Ps for anyone who saw the news about the awful earthquake in Taiwan and the surrounding tsunami warnings, these are not for mainland Japan where we are and we have disaster notifications on our phones for Japan so we are immediately notified if there are any natural disasters so please don’t worry as I have received a few messages from people wanting to check we are safe which is sweet but we don’t want to worry anyone!

    Day 35

    A rather groggy start to this morning when the alarm blared at 6am. Very unamused we got ready and loaded onto the bus to head towards a far away port and then on a ferry to Ōkunoshima or also known as “rabbit island”! The clue is in the name, there are hundreds of thousands of wild rabbits on this island! The island is inhabited apart from one hotel and accommodation for staff who work at the hotel the rest is well run by the rabbits! The second you step off the ferry they are everywhere and they are pretty friendly too! With no predators on the island they’ve learnt not to fear anything so they come running up to you! Why so many rabbits you ask? Well Okunoshima actually has quite a dark history behind it.

    Japan signed the Geneva protocol which banned the use of chemical warfare. However, between 1929 and 1945 Okunoshima was used as a secret poison gas plant island! Japan had to go to great lengths to keep this hidden from the West as this went against the Geneva protocol. They went to extreme lengths such as removing it from all their maps and it became a national secret of Japan. Unfortunately many of the works forced to work in poor conditions and developed awful side affects and many died during this period so it has a very interesting but dark history. Now you may be wondering how this links to rabbits? Well they tested on rabbits during the development of the poison gas and when the development of the gas was eventually stopped they populated the island! As a result there are ruins of the power plant on the island as well as storage ruins and many derelict buildings with one of the only things standing being the small lighthouse! The island is only 5km in circumference so we walked around the island exploring the ruins whilst also being bombarded by rabbits! It was the most surreal experience for such beauty to have such a dark past. It really is a stunning island, crystal clear waters and untouched nature it is an absolute paradise! So much so that when we reached the main beach there was no one there!! So we went around some rocks and found our own little cove where I went for a very quick and VERY cold swim! I was in and out pretty quickly but it was just too beautiful with the islands in the background to not! We spent a few hours relaxing on the beach and collecting shells before catching the last ferry back and then the long bus back to central Hiroshima.

    It was SO worth the early start and long journey each way it was the most wacky island you can imagine and despite it looking very touristy when you arrive we saw barely anyone and the island is relatively untouched apart from a road looping around the whole island. Definitely the most interesting way to spend our last day in Hiroshima. There really was a mixture of everything- beautiful beaches, interesting history, a dip in the sea, and bunny rabbits! Definitely our most surreal day yet we absolutely LOVED it.
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  • Day 36

    Day 36

    April 5 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 10 °C

    Today we left Hiroshima and headed as far south as we are going on this trip which is Yamaguchi prefecture! This is the prefecture at the end of the the Honshu island of Japan. We’ve actually loved Hiroshima, it definitely has a lot of variety with its history, beautiful scenery, fun islands, fully blossomed cherry blossoms, and a bit more of a chilled city vibe it’s gone very quickly and I can’t quite believe we are already leaving!

    We travelled on the train to yamaguchi and dropped our bags off before taking a bus to go see Akiyoshido limestone Cave. After getting the bus and walking for about 20 minutes through a very sleepy town we came across the entrance. With a roaring river we entered the cave and it was absolutely HUGE. It’s over 11km long of which 1000m is open to the public and the ceilings were 80m high! It was an absolute sight to behold! The cave was actually once a coral reef - yes it was underwater but over millions of years it was pushed up onto land due to tectonic plate activity and the rainwater has eroded the land forming these HUGE floor to ceiling stalagmites and stalactites and of course the cave it was an incredible work of Mother Nature. I wasn’t sure what to expect but this was absolutely breathtaking! I think the highlight for me was the “100 plates” which were formed by limestone deposits and are also nicknamed “the rice fields” as they look like an Ariel view of rice fields it was just extraordinary we were absolutely fascinated!

    After wandering through for about an hour we then headed up to the observatory deck through a lift in the cave?? I couldn’t quite wrap my head around a lift being in the middle of this cave!! It takes you up 80m and then a 500m walk up to the top where we enjoyed the view of the limestone plateau and the grasslands of Akiyoshidai. Enjoying the Sun on our faces and the stunning views we sat and had an ice cream - what a treat!

    We then walked down and back to the bus stop to work our way back to our accommodation. Today was absolutely fascinating we both loved learning about the cave and formation of it!
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  • Day 38

    Day 37-38

    April 7 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Day 37

    I can’t believe we are on day 37 already it’s honestly going by so quickly! Now spring has fully bloomed in Japan we decided to enjoy this to the fullest but going to the “rainbow tulip garden”. This sits right at the end of the honshu island so much so that it has a view of the MASSIVE bridge that connects Honshu and Kyushu. We aren’t venturing onto Kyushu but it was very cool to see the bridge that connects the two!

    The tulip garden was a train and a bus journey away and it’s absolutely stunning. It’s basically a smaller and quieter Amsterdam. Rows of tulips heading up the hill all colour arranged is just beautiful. Cherry blossoms dotted throughout the park provide nice places to sit and waste a few hours enjoying the view. As usual, we were the only foreign tourists there it all appeared to be domestic tourism visiting the garden and we got a few strange looks - I don’t think people are used to seeing foreigners here!

    Sitting under a cherry blossom tree and enjoying the Sun we had a few snacks and watched the world go by for a while.

    We discovered there was literally nothing else to do around the garden at all, it was frankly in the middle of nowhere apart from the bridge so we headed back. It was quite a long way to go just for the tulip garden but it was definitely worth it, it was so pretty!

    We finished the day with a teppanyaki, we’ve definitely got better at finding alternatives to noodles now!

    Day 38

    Today we decided to reattempt fishing so we travelled to a tiny little town by the sea and found a little rod rental shop. A very sweet old man rented us some rods and then gave us a massive bucket full of krill for bait which I was grateful for as I didn’t want it to be live worms! We went to the end of the pier and began fishing next to a few other Japanese families. There are definitely worse places to fish with a lovely view out of the bay and watching the fishing boats go in and out.

    After about an hour of not catching anything I was getting a little fidgety- those who know me well know I’m not the most patient person on earth! But I was saved by the very sweet old man. I feel a bit bad just calling him “old man” but i don’t know his name and even if I did I’m sure I wouldn’t be able to spell or pronounce it! He gestured for me to give him the rod so I did and he led me further down the pier and then showed me how he fishes. He definitely looked like he knew what he was doing more than us but I don’t think that’s very hard! After studying his techniques he passed me the rod back and about 5 minutes later I caught the first fish! I was absolutely chuffed with this. It was the smallest fish I’ve ever seen and I’m very glad that this wasn’t our plan for dinner as we definitely would have gone hungry! It didn’t matter to me though I was so excited until I then realised that I had to unhook it. Turning to Jacob he had the sudden realisation that I wasn’t going to unhook the fish and that it was now his job. You can call me girly and screamish if you wish and that’s probably fair but I really didn’t want to unhook the fish. In total I caught 3 fish and Jacob caught 1 but it’s not a competition and it’s not like I’m keeping track or anything ;).

    Handing back out rods we thanked our teacher and then went to catch the bus which didn’t arrive which was great. After an hour and a half we managed to catch a different bus to a train station and then catch the train back. Today was our last day in yamaguchi and we are headed to Osaka tomorrow with more fish activities on the agenda tomorrow- wish me luck!
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  • Day 40

    Day 39-40

    April 9 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Day 39

    Today we left Yamaguchi and headed all the way back up to Osaka as we begin our journey up north. After a few hours of travelling we made it to Osaka station and took the metro to our hostel, dumped our bags here and then went out again.

    Now today (being the 8th of April) is Buddhas birthday in Japan known as Hana matsuri, japan actually celebrate this earlier than the rest of Asia due to them swapping their calendar! Having researched heavily online I couldn’t find any form of real celebrations happening in Japan today which I thought was strange until I came across one article that said to go to the main temple of that city and they tend to have some kind of display and ceremony. So we headed to Shitennoji which has a beautiful pagoda and grounds with wonderful cherry blossoms. As we wandered around we noticed a statue of Buddha with flowers decorating it as an offering to Buddha. Around the statue a small seating area had been set up with some of the locals sat there. Shortly after we noticed this all the monks came out of the temple and walked over chanting to this area. Watching slightly from afar as we wanted to be respectful they began burning incense and clearly preparing from a ceremony. Then, very sweetly one of the security that escorted the monks invited us to come and stand closer so we got to stand and watch their ceremony! They had many mantras and it was an incredible experience and I think pretty amazing that we got to witness it as we were the only tourists there so not sure how we managed that one! But it didn’t seem a very largely advertised event today if I hadn’t looked it up I wouldn’t have known it was Buddhas birthday today!

    During hana matsuri there is also a tradition to pour green tea over the statues of Buddha but we didn’t see this today but we did get very lucky to see the ceremony!

    After this we wandered around the grounds for a little while before catching the metro out to our activity of the day- sushi making! Those who have kept up well with my blog will be slightly perplexed as we have already done sushi making, expect it wasn’t the classic “proper” sushi if you like and Jacob really wanted to learn and make the proper sushi, so reluctantly I agreed and I’m so glad I did!

    We met the chef outside a metro station with another British couple who were doing the experience and then our chef - Yuki lead us away from the station and we reached a block of apartments where she welcomed us into her home! I was very shocked by this as it didn’t say on the activity description that it was in her home! We took our shoes off as we entered and Yuki gave us some sliders to wear, she welcomed us into her small flat that had sliding door panels and a little kitchen table that we all gathered around to make sushi! We made a few different types of sushi and completely from scratch as we learnt how to properly prepare the rice too! We made Nigiri, sashimi, Maki and Tamago. I discovered that I actually quite like Maki to my absolute surprise! This is the sushi that is rice with fish and vegetables wrapped in a sheet of seaweed. I think the reason I probably liked it was the proportion of fish to rice but this is a huge step forward for me as I seriously don’t eat any fish- until now!!! Making the sushi was also so fun, Yuki was lovely and very helpful and open to lots of questions about cuisine but also Japan in general and her lifestyle. She worked in restaurants for 10 years and now teaches classes for a living! It was a really genuinely authentic experience and was so much fun and it really pushed me as I ate raw octopus! Now that I didn’t like but it’s always good to try new things and it just goes to show that it can work as I now like some fish! Not to dampen anyone’s hopes reading this but I still hated the other types of sushi but progress is progress!

    Day 40

    We had a slow morning today and headed over to Osaka castle which is one of the most famous in Japan as it signifies the end of the wars in Japan and unifying the country. Standing at 55m the gold and green embellished castle is really beautiful. Surrounded by a moat and extensive gardens it’s very easy to waste a few hours enjoying the scenery and wandering through the cherry blossoms to enjoy them before they disappear!

    We then headed to Tenjinbashi-suji Shopping Street which is the longest shopping street in Japan at over a mile long!! I have to say we were a bit disappointed with this as it really wasn’t aimed at tourists at all which is fair enough reallt but there wasn’t really anything that caught our eye. However, we still enjoyed strolling down it and looking through the food markets and stores. After a mile of walking I wanted a quick pit stop so we stopped to grab a late lunch before setting off to our last destination of today- Dotonbori!

    Now I feel that Osaka has been a very laid back city with actually very little energy so far until you get to Dotonbori! Large screens with adverts and posters and light up signs line the buildings- a little like a mini Times Square that leads you to the food street of Dotonbori which is completely bonkers. A long street filled with street food and restaurants with some very wacky eye catching sights. Large plastic moving crabs and cows and fish attached and hanging from buildings advertising restaurants and street food line the street. This is the most busy bustling part of Osaka and it’s so much fun. It feels a bit like a fever dream walking through a sleepy city to then reach noise and smells and lights and people on mass, everywhere!

    We tried two different street food vendors, one selling strawberries on a skewer coated in melted sugar which were delicious and awful for you I’m sure and also a wagyu beef skewer which was mouth wateringly good! So overall today has been pretty varied and once again so much fun!
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  • Day 41

    Day 41

    April 10 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today is our last full day in Osaka so we started at the famous Osaka aquarium which was the largest in the world at one point and it really is massive. Huge tanks of fish from all over the world with several floors it takes about 2 hours to walk around! We enjoyed looking at the different types of fish before having a quick coffee and then walking around a nearby plaza. Wondering around the shops we saw a rather odd looking shop that looked like a puppy daycare. Curious we wondered up and you literally pay to go and cuddle puppies, so of course we did. A big room full of about 20 different dogs all running around and playing with each other and all very cuddly it really made me miss my doggies at home! But it was very strange but very cute!

    After this we went on the Osaka equivalent of the London eye and got some lovely panoramic views over the Osaka Bay Area before heading to a rather quirky restaurant! Arriving 20 minutes before opening in order to be the first in the queue we went to Zauo fishing restaurant where they have a large pond full with fish that you catch and then the chef cooks for you! It’s a surreal experience! Shown to our table we were handed a fishing rod. Fishing from our table I waited nervously to catch my fish, we decided to try catch a sea bream as Jacob thought this would be the most “tame” fish for me to try eat.

    Feeling a litttle nibble I tried to catch my first fish but it slipped away with my bait! Eventually after about 15 minutes i managed to hook one and put it in the net before it could get away and handed it quickly over to our waitress to deal with! She handed it back to me for a quick picture before taking it away to the kitchen to be grilled!

    Now it was jacobs turn and after a while he managed to catch another large sea bream! Now whilst the experience is really fun it came to eating the fish. When the fish was served whole- head and tail intact my heart dropped out of my stomach. For those who don’t know I really struggle to eat fish partly because I don’t like the taste but also because they kind of freak me out so this was really challenging me to the extreme! After a bit of a pep talk from Jacob which pretty much consisted of “man up and eat it you’ll be fine” I managed to eat about half of the fish before I timed out. It felt very cruel eating the fish next to its siblings! Jacob happily polished off the rest of my fish before heading off to our last activity today.

    This was the team lab immersive art exhibition in a huge outdoor botanical gardens. With art projected onto huge rocks, lantern like lights on the water, colour changing globes, and a forest full of what looked like rain drops changing colour it was stunning! What was also nice is that the art changes depending on the behaviour of the people in the space, for example if you get closer to something it might get brighter or if you touch one of the globes in changes colour- it’s all very fun actually! All whilst winding through a garden it’s really breathtaking! I absolutely love this kind of modern art and it’s just such a fun way to experience and explore different spaces and forms of art.
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  • Day 43

    Day 42-44

    April 12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Day 42
    So today we had to leave Osaka and travel to nagoya in Aichi prefecture but there was still one thing left on our bucket list for Osaka- universal studios! Managing to dump our backpacks in a locker in the station we travelled to universal studios and it was SO fun and worth the slightly hideous entry fee! We started at Harry Potter world with a full sized hogsmead and a large hogwarts model it felt like we were in the real thing! It was really fun walking around and going into all the shops that are in the books and films! We then queued for a ride that sat us on these carts that basically immerse you in a ride but only using a screen?! I don’t really know how else to explain it but it was very clever and we both loved it! We also found it hilarious that Harry Potter and Hagrid were talking to us in Japanese!!

    After this we did a few more rides and walked through a whole section dedicated to hello kitty which felt like a rainbow had thrown up and they also had a jaws themed section and Jurassic park! They also had a Nintendo section but this wasn’t covered by our day pass sadly so we had to miss out on this! We then ate in an “American diner” before heading back to the station in the evening to grab our bags and travel up to Nagoya.

    I’m so glad we went to universal studios as we were really debating if it was worth it and it was actually so much fun with the loud music and seriously crazy rides!

    Day 43

    Today we decided to explore Nagoya city at a slower pace, starting at Nagoya castle we wondered through the grounds and stumbled across some street performers which was really weird as it feels very unJapanese as they are always very quiet and respectful and not obnoxiously playing music! Anyway, we sat and watched him for a while and we were so unimpressed with his crystal ball “floating” although it was so obviously not but all the Japanese people there LOVED it so we decided that they need to go see the street performers in London and then they really might be blown away!

    There was also some food stands in the grounds so I had an icecream sandwich and we sat under the trees for a while in the shade as the temperature had really picked up today and was about 22°c!

    After this we headed to Nagoya’s famous shopping street to go on the hunt for some shorts as I wanted to have a pair just in case the weather stays like this for a few days. Only problem is is that the Japanese are on the whole quite small and petite of which I am neither! So every pair of shorts I tried on either I couldn’t get past my thighs or were definitely not long enough to be deemed acceptable! Eventually, after hunting for a while we managed to find some that I’m pretty sure were men’s shorts, but I was happy.

    After some delicious ramen we stumbled across Osu Kannon temple which was absolutely infested by pigeons! And I’m not being dramatic there were hundreds and hundreds lining the whole roof and also on the ground and we soon found out why- there was a box where you could get food out for the pigeons and feed them! We watched one man do this and as he opened the box thousands of pigeons literally dived onto him engulfing him to get to the food it was so bizzare! As I walked up to the box two pigeons landed on me and refused to get off so I decided not to open the box as I would probably suffer a similar fate as the man which I was not happy about so I had one on either shoulder- call me the pigeon whisperer if you will! It was so so strange and I can’t wrap my head around why anyone would encourage pigeons! Then all of a sudden through the speakers you hear a chanting and all the pigeons in unison flew up to the roof of the temple like they were being summoned - SUCH an odd experience!

    Day 44
    To finish off our last day in Nagoya we thought we would tick the main boxes- one being the Nagoya science museum which is 6 floors and two buildings so absolutely massive! Full of immersive exhibitions ranging from cogs to bubbles to different elements to preserved pickled sharks and fish it was really quite the experience! I can see how a Japanese child would be fascinated by science from such a young age as it is presented to them in such an engaging way it really puts our science museum to shame! But none the less we throughly enjoyed making tornados in the tornado simulator and testing out all sort of clever tricks!

    After this we headed to see the 15m high Buddha statue! Tucked away just off the busy main road it suddenly becomes absolutely silent and peaceful in this small little temple, wondering through bamboo you find this HUGE statue of Buddha it’s amazing! With almost no one else there it was lovely to have to ourselves- all apart from one man who insisted he took a picture for us which was very sweet !

    To finish off the day Jacob really wants to go to the Toyota and automobile museum. 4 floors of models of cars ranging from the very first cars ever invented up until 2014 it was boy heaven as far as I’m concerned. I was very eager to find my Toyota aygo 2009 but I guess my car doesn’t quite pass as “cool enough” to be on display! Whilst I was walking around saying “ooo I like this colour” or “this one looks cool” Jacob was much more excited about makes and models than me! After dutifully looking at ALL the cars I managed to pull Jacob away and get a bite to eat!
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  • Day 46

    Day 45-46

    April 15 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Day 45

    Today we left Nagoya to travel to Nagano, I am super excited for our time in Nagano as we have some really cool day trips planned! From Nagoya to Nagano there is a train that takes about 3 hours but it’s very scenic! Nagano borders the Japanese Alps so we went through lots of tunnels through the alps and ran alongside rivers with mountains dusted with snow so three hours actually went pretty quickly!

    Arriving in Nagano we dropped our bags off and caught the train to Obasute which is only about 20kms outside of Nagano city but it’s like stepping into a completely different era. Nagano city is quite buzzy and it has lots of trendy bars and eateries but just outside the city it’s a completely different story.

    As we arrived and got off the train it felt like we had gotten off at a ghost station with just the two of us there we were wondering if we were at the right place! Wondering down through the hilly outcrop we were surrounded by beautiful views of the mountains and Nagano city in the background but most importantly - rice paddies! Terraced down the hill the rice paddies stretched for a few hundred metres alongside cherry blossom farmland and grape crops amongst others that we couldn’t identify! Small houses made of wood and thatched roofs lined the mountainside it was incredibly picturesque!

    As we were enjoying the scenery we saw a few farmers out working on the land and one in the smallest tractor we had ever seen it must have taken him a millennia to complete all his fields! Another with a small machine that appeared to be prepping the ground for planting. The rice paddies are quite marshy and as a result the farmers have built irrigation systems that have small channels of water that run on the sides of the fields to keep the fields boggy. As we went for a closer look I was rather startled when a frog jumped out of no where! Then all of a sudden there were about 10 of them all hopping around the rice field! I guess it actually makes perfect sense for them to be here as it’s nice and damp and cool with lots of choice for bugs but I just hadn’t really thought about it so I was very surprised when we started spotting them!

    Meandering through the farmland enjoying the warmth of the sun we eventually headed back to the train station - up a bloody huge hill to travel back to Nagano city to settle in for the night!

    Day 46

    Today we visited the largest Wasabi farm in Japan- Daio wasabi farm, it’s so large that it produces 150 tons of wasabi a year- I can’t even get my head around that large of a number!

    Despite the farm being in Nagano prefecture it is huge so it took us about three hours to get there which comprised of two trains and then a 45 minute walk.

    Greeted by a wasabi ice cream truck we felt like we had to try it! It was actually surprisingly nice apart from the fresh wasabi paste on top which burned my mouth off so I quickly scraped this off and enjoyed the rest of the ice cream!

    Wondering around the wasabi fields was quite the sight! Wasabi effectively grows in a steam and what’s special about this wasabi farm is that all the water that passes through the farm is spring water from the Japanese alps that flows tactically through the farm! It’s very impressive!

    Vast fields with little green plants dotting the landscape it was quite the operation! Reaching the best view point we had a nice view of the farm with the alps in the background, sitting down and enjoying the view we watched a few of the farmers out in the field picking the wasabi and working on the farm. A lot of the wasabi is covered in a black netting that is to protect them from the sun as wasabi is apparently very sensitive to direct sunlight once it’s developed past a certain stage!

    After taking it all in we wondered through the shop and saw some wasabi wine which we felt like we HAD to try, once we got back we tried this and it was actually very interesting. It was just very weak wine with a really subtle taste of wasabi, I don’t think it would become my regular drink but it’s always good to try new things!
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  • Day 48

    Day 47-48

    April 17 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ -3 °C

    Day 47

    So we’ve been trying desperately hard to plan a day trip into the Japanese alps as it feels like it would be SUCH a mistake to miss them. The only problem is that without a car they are almost completely inaccessible. We even looked into staying in the alps and just taking the hit with having to cancel a different booking but the prices were outrageous and the lodges completely inaccessible. We were feeling at our wits end a little as it seemed that our dreams of visiting the alps were becoming more and more impossible to fulfil. Until I found the alpine route. This is a route through the mountains that starts in Nagano in ogizawa and ends in Tateyama in Toyama prefecture. It’s a popular route by car and also for hiking but we still had the problem of no transport until I found a website entirely in Japanese that offered a day ticket through a pathway in the alpine route using only public transport. Absolutely thrilled and seriously surprised that it wasn’t more advertised as it took quite a lot of hunting to find to it we booked it!

    When the alarm blared at 6.30am I groggily got up and got dressed before we grabbed a quiet bite before taking a bus all the way to ogizawa. Luckily the lady at the bus terminal was a saint as we were struggling to find tickets and where the bus went from and she recommended to go to the stop before the station and just as well as we wouldn’t have got a seat on the bus otherwise and then we would have been screwed!

    After 1 1/2 hours we started winding up through the alps with blinding snow on either side the bus pulled into this tiny little bus station literally on the mountainside with nothing around it. Getting off we managed to get a physical copy of our ticket from a vending machine and then began to look for our tour guide. After a while of looking around we couldn’t find one, just the other passengers there. Slightly confused we went back onto the website and translated it all and managed to work out that we didn’t actually have a guide, it’s basically a ticket that secures you a spot on the public transport route but the rest you have to work out yourself! Managing to find a map I felt a little more confident that we knew what we were doing but in truth we made it up as we went along quite a lot!

    We started by taking a cable car through a tunnel in one of the mountains. Climbing out we climbed the 220 steps to the view point which was absolutely spectacular and actually probably the best view of the whole day! A gorgeous frozen dam winding in between the snowy mountains it was just breathtaking, the pictures don’t do it justice we literally stood there in awe it was incredible. Seriously a view of a lifetime. What’s also special is that apart from when your on the public transport it didn’t feel as though there were many people there as everyone dispersed at the viewing points so it didn’t feel really touristy or over crowded. Once again, we were the only western people there, everyone else was Japanese which would explain the Japanese only website but it just seems bizarre that it wasn’t really advertised to the western tourists!

    After this we took a long Ropeway even higher into the mountain range and the highest we went was 3000 metres! It honestly felt like we were in a different world, with no real civilisation in sight just wilderness it was really really special.

    We took a few more buses through the alps before reaching our last stop- the snow wall. Now this isn’t the famous one in Aomori prefecture but it’s just as impressive and I’m sure less busy. The snow wall accumulates in drifts and creates 20 metre high walls of snow. For most of the year the route is inaccessible but from mid March-June they bulldozer a route through the snow creating the snow walls! Wandering through glancing up in awe it’s hard to imagine this level of snowfall it’s just insane. You definitely wouldn’t want to be any where near these mountains in a snow storm! It’s so compact that it’s almost ice now it really is quite the sight and this was probably one of my favourite parts of the day trip!

    The last public transport was an hour bus that slowly made its way down through the mountains with amazing views before ending up at a train station. We took two trains to get home and had a quick dinner before crashing and going to sleep as we had been out of 13 hours and I was shattered but completely and utterly worth it! Amazing day and definitely one to remember.

    Day 48

    Today is our last day in Nagano so we decided to have a relaxed day just exploring the city as we haven’t actually done this yet! Having a yummy breakfast we walked through the city for about 30 minutes before arriving at Zenkōji temple which is a massive temple with a few very large gate entrances and lovely grounds. Sitting in the sun we enjoyed the birds chirping away and took a few photos of them. Jacob got very excited taking photos so I found a nice cherry blossom tree to sit under whilst he wondered around taking photos. After a while we slowly weaved our way through the streets of the city and browsing in shops and stopping for a quick lunch. We explored the city for a few more hours before walking back and having a relaxed evening getting all our things in order for the move tomorrow.
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