Angharad Dowse

Joined May 2017
  • Day16

    Lukla

    September 19 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Last day - so over it. Hahaha. So happy by the end of today we will be done.
    When we came up to breakfast Lucy had already gone to get her helicopter.
    We both signed George’s shirt which is having fraud and put up in his office.

    It’s much busier now. Lukla has been closed for days so it’s still only barely scratching the surface on how busy it does get.

    I will miss seeing random animals. Especially the cows.

    And off we went. 27km to do today.
    My knee was ok at the start but I’d say about 10km in my left knee was dying, I couldn’t really bend it.
    Getting down from Namche was much better than going up lol.
    It was really muddy and Pasang fell on his ass lol. He had to walk with shit on him all day.

    We went over lots of bridges today only they weren’t as fun because they hurt my knee this time when you had to really grip to stay grounded - especially the time the yaks were on at the same time making it bounce around everywhere!!

    I was really struggling so Pasang sprayed some shot on my knee - no idea what it was for.
    Will wanted to carry my bag for me but I refused. I want to finish this.

    We stopped in at Monjo or tea and eventually stopped somewhere for lunch which took ages to go our food (loved the extended break haha)

    Wills memory of the trail is very impressive. He knows all the ups and downs about to come after walking it once over a week ago.

    Constant problem of too hot then too cold.
    1 year later arrived to Lukla. Never been so pleased lol. It really is a cute town.

    Everyone got a lot of shit off their chest today re Lucy. We all bonded quite nicely because we were all able to be ourselves today.

    When we got to lukla we stayed at the place next to the airport. - Happy with the room though the lighting is non existent.

    For dinner I ate some salad, felt sick and left to go back to the room.
    Will got me a towel Incase of gastro attack.
    I ended up being fine. Crashed out hard!
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  • Day15

    Namche

    September 18 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    We slept good but Will woke up stiff and sore cause of the bed.
    It was raining today so we put on our rain gear before we even left - the sherpas are just excellent at all life skills and fixed Wills pants - thankfully or he would have gotten very wet.

    It’s a very miserable cold day.

    Lots of cunt hills today. I just can’t breath 😂
    Today was my hardest day mentally. It had a lot of flats, a massive down I honestly don’t know how I previously climbed but also a lot of upset
    I was wet, cold but also too hot, my legs were aching and we had hours to go.
    I had to jaw wobble moments today. Not proper cries (not sure if I actually dispelled tears or if rain lol)

    Today we saw some musk deer so they was pretty cool - they are endangered :(

    We walked back through were we saw the monks chanting - they were all out in about in color coordinates gum boots hahaha

    Having the same constant problem of don’t need to poo of toilet is available. Need to poo immediately after we have left.
    So over being constipated. Little wombat poos all the time.

    We saw 2 dog fights today. I instinctively screamed at the start of both attacks. No one else did 😅
    Both dogs pulled up ok I think. At least their faces were still attached.

    We had a dog follow us for so long we named her clementine.

    Views are so disappointing.

    We finally arrived and it was a great feeling. We met Ian Taylor whose group arrived in Namche today. He seems lovely, we are happy to support his company.

    We had a hot shower. It was beyond magical. We both haven’t showered in in over 8 days.
    We smell.
    We were cold.
    So happpppy.
    We also got our in the newer section of the teahouse this time - much nicer.

    My legs were so sore. My calf and knee was GONE.
    I could barely walk, I put on like half a jar of tiger balm.

    My phone had been pretty much dead since base camp but as we were no longer in ridiculous temperature it decided to stop freaking out and work again

    All my clothes are wet and smell but at least we came off better than Tom and Lucy whose entire duffel bags got wet inside from the rain.

    Ok so the big story of the day is the shit Lucy is trying to pull.
    So as previously mentioned she can’t walk down a hill and needs to hold a guides hand.
    Today we were going down big hill and she was being assisted and Gilbo had her hand and helped her across a rock she was having trouble with.
    She freaked out, slapped his hand away and told him to leave.
    5 more hours she walked without issue.

    Once we arrive in Namche she comes out with the story that Gilbo pulled her so hard that she has torn a knee tendon. (<— have only just learnt that that word does not end in a T 🤯🤯)
    And she can’t walk, it’s ruined her trip and she is gonna have to get a helicopter to Lukla tomorrow.
    So essentially what she has done is thrown a mans livelihood into jeopardy, potentially damaging a company image and lied about what happened (George, Will and I all saw the “incident”)
    Do not throw people under the bus because of your own incompetence.
    Ian was really worried because of her past record (lost a sexual assault court case for lying/concealing info under oath. I.e she makes things up)
    She is using his insurance not hers to get the helicopter for unknown reasons.
    If she sues or makes something out of this all 6 of us will defend Gilbo.
    Why can’t you just say you hurt your knee?
    Why undermine someone who has tried to help you daily for 2 weeks?
    Everyone is furious.
    George and Helen spoke privately with Ian to discuss her behavior the whole trip.
    Ian basically said he doesn’t know why Pasang didn’t turn her around on day one if she couldn’t walk downhill.
    I just don’t want anyone to get into trouble. They are all so wonderful.

    In Namche after dinner we were told to all wait.
    They brought out a cake and Pasang sang us a song on a traditional instrument. Loved it!
    All the sherpas in the teahouse began to dance.

    I have been thinking long and hard and I think I’m onto why I’m not as impressed as expected about the mountains.
    I think it’s because in my mind they were going to be bigger.
    Everest is 8km high or whatever but really it’s only 3 from the ground. It’s the sea level position that adds its height rather than a singular ridiculously big mountain standing alone.
    I bet that will make no sense when I one day ready it back.
    Basically they weren’t as big and intimidating as expected.
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  • Day14

    Periche *

    September 17 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Woke up hating life Lol.
    Specifically the fact that it was 5am, freaking freezing and we had to pack all our shit.

    The yaks were found overnight and on their way 😂

    We finally got out of our tent and snow was everywereeeeee.

    We had small water puddles in our tent and because Will was using my down jacket as a pillow it was wet 🙄 of all the days.. I had no choice but to wear it.
    FREEZING.

    We headed back to Gorakshep for breakfast.
    My legs/thighs hurt today. First time.

    Had brekkie. So over the brekkie. Rock hard butter cannot be spread onto soft bread.

    We walked for hours until we eventually stopped for tea at Lobuche.
    Everyone was done. Everyone. We were all knackered - no one slept overly well at base camp.
    Helen has such a bad headache she cried when asked what drink she wanted.

    From then it was mainly Sherpa flats and downs. There was one down that went for bloody ever I’m surprised we successfully climbed it. Lol
    The weather was terrible. Fog fog fog.
    It was also sprinkling.

    We had lunch at the bottom of the hill at the place who previously had no cheese.
    I got some chips and fed 2 dogs some of the leftovers. One of them had been in a BAD fight and had chunks of its face ripped off. Amazing it’s not infected, even with the cold I’m surprised the dog is going ok. We also saw a cow that had presumably been gouged by a yak horn. Again, no sign of infection just a big ass wound.
    I had a panic when I gave the dogs the chips cause I dropped some and I was scared they would fight for them but they were fine.
    Everyone else hated the wounded dog and was like get it away from me :(

    We walked on and crossed the small suspicious ply wood bridge. Due to the rain the river was ferocious.
    First time putting them on and Will broke his rain pants. 🙄
    Yay for more flats. As we walked we spotted many many yaks. Love them.

    Finally made it.
    Day 1 of 3, 25km days.

    Nice dining area, flat out exhausted and went to our rooms ASAP.

    Our bed is literally a table with a sheet on it 😂
    It also has a toddler blanket ie a is for apple, b is for butterfly etc. lol

    We went back for dinner and everyone was watching the movie ‘Everest’ - we saw the last 40 minutes. I want to watch when home.
    It was cool to see depictions of the characters from the memorials.
    I had Popcorn for dinner, as did George.
    My phone is fucked. It died at base camp because of the cold.
    Good sleep.
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  • Day13

    Everest base camp

    September 16 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 0 °C

    So at 3:30am when I got up to get ready for Kala Pattar I call it quits.
    I felt horrendous. I felt so woozy and I just couldn’t. Not if we then had to immediately go to base camp.
    Helen, Tom, George and Anita went.
    Will, Lucy and I stayed behind.

    They got back around 8 and said they enjoyed it but it was the hardest thing they had ever done.
    They said they saw views but the pictures they showed us suggest otherwise.

    We all had breakfast together and planned to leave for base camp pretty much straight after only..
    OUR YAKS WERE MISSING 😂

    Such a caffuffel. It took hours for our guides to organise but we eventually found porters to carry our bags to base camp. I was very relieved cause there had been talk that we simply might not be able to sleep there and only visit.

    We ate lunch and left around 12:30.
    It took about 3 hours to get there. It was probably my favourite walk because we were finally going to our goal.
    The walk was just rocks and stones and finally some snow capped views.
    We had lots of fasty fasty moments due to dangerous areas with potential rock slides.
    We took such a long and indirect route. The path changes ever season as the landscapes moves and changes.

    When we finally made it my eyes burned. I was so proud of us for making it and in disbelief.

    We got photos with the famous rock with the height even though it’s incorrect by 1 meter.
    The ice field is beautiful. I love thinking that the core is millions of years old. Very cool.
    We were on a big glacier - it was cool in sections to see under the rock and grit ice and or little stream.

    When we first arrived the sherpas were putting up our tents and toilet tent (essentially a chamber pot with a plastic bag to catch everything. Cute)

    Everyone was having their own minor photo shoots lol.
    We also got hot drinks which were appreciated.
    It started to snow to we all went into our tents and set up.
    Blowing up the air mattress was hard work. Had to take it slow. Hard to breath up there.
    The guides are beyond amazing, they worked in the snow and did like 5 separate rounds.
    First we got popcorn and soup broth.
    Second we got our oxygen checked
    Third we got hot drinks
    Fourth we got Dal Baht. (Rice, lentils, potatoes etc)
    Fifth we got boiling water for our bottles and hot water bottles.

    The snow was fierce!
    We both needed to pee. It took us like 10 minutes to get out of the tent, moving is hard.
    On the way bag in I snagged the zipper on the outside of the tent and neither of us could fix it..
    We still had the inner layer zip but still.. Will was no happy lol.

    I bought a liner for Will to use in our Aussie sleeping bag. But for his own reasons refused.
    I was fine cause I hired mine so it was a better quality but at one point I had to wake Will is cause he was shaking in his sleep. Quite frightening actually.
    He then got over his mood about me braking the tent and we snuggled for warmth.
    I needed to pee again but refused to leave the tent again.
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  • Day12

    Gorakshep

    September 15 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Today was the first place that offered peanut butter for breakfast so I was all over that.
    I am having some serious and constant pins and needles in my feet. Especially my right one. 😪😪
    Off we went. Lost the toothpaste so fresh breath today. Sorry everyone.
    We walked a little bit and spotted a Pika which is from the rodent family.
    I asked Pasang what he eats and he responded with
    “They like cookies” 😂
    Not quite what I meant.
    It was so efficient and graceful and moving in and out of the rocks!

    The first bit was Sherpa flat meaning not what I think is flat but flat enough that I am super happy about it.
    Peeing in privacy is getting harder now that more people are trekking.

    Lucy flat out sucks at going downhill. She is scared the rocks are gonna move or something.
    Others were getting fed up but I didn’t mind. We each have different skills and she was genuinely fearful. She had a cry. I was so awkward about it.
    “...do you want a hug?” 🤷🏼‍♀️

    Honestly our main issue is breathing. We are panting like dogs. I also had another headache today and had some pain meds.

    We saw some snow cocks which was cool. They were well camouflaged into the rocks but they were making a racquet so they were easy to spot.

    We keep running into an Israeli man and he is already one of my favourite people.
    He got to the top of a hill and saw that it was going back down and with such passion in his accent
    “OOO I HATE IT”
    I have literally been laughing about it all day.
    My sentiments exactly 😂

    We got to a glacier field which was beautiful. Sounded like thunder when a small section of it caved in.

    So many rocks. It’s like another planet up here. Nothing grows.
    Just rocks and more rocks.
    They have to take a different path every season cause the landscape changes.

    After what seemed like an eternity of rock-climbing we finally made it to the top of our final hill from where you could finally see Gorakshep and Basecamp in the distance. You can see it 😭
    When we arrived we had lunch and had a group discussion about day plans because we are supose to climb Kala Pattar this afternoon but the weather just isn’t good for it. Can see anything It’s rainy. We are considering doing it at 4am tomorrow instead. I will need to have a think about it. I don’t want to climb it if there is no views. Tomorrow is also base camp and I don’t want to do anything to jeopardize making it. Walking in the dark over rocks isn’t the safest idea me thinks. We shall see.

    We went upstairs to our room. I think this is my favourite so far. Cute and cozy.
    We accidentally had like a 3-4 hour nap 😅😅

    Ok so I take back the favourite award.
    Rooms are cute but everything else sucks.
    The toilets are beyond horrifying.

    I decided to do Kala Pattar tomorrow.
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  • Day11

    Lobuche

    September 14 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    7:30 breakfast. Today was the first time we both had all aspects of our lives together BEFORE breakfast.
    We have been doing teeth and sunscreen afterwards but have been last ready every time.

    The start of today was uphill but it chilled out very soon into it.
    A magical 2 hours were had on flatness just spotting wild yaks, looking at flowers and getting some distance smashed out.

    It’s starting to get very rocky. Landslides would be an obvious contributor but it’s just the landscape.

    We had to walk down a wee bit to cross this dodgy looking bridge made of plywood suspended over raging rapids. The yaks when first which help promote its stability. Lol
    It was a beautiful section.

    Up a bit and lunch.
    We all put our orders in and like 6/7 of our orders involved cheese...
    our food comes out
    Oh sorry we don’t have cheese.
    Like that’s totally fine but tell us so we can change our order. I ordered Mac and cheese and got pasta covered in tomato sauce instead.

    Then came the crappy part of the day.
    Very steep section for about an hour but it hurt the lungs. I had to pant my way up.
    Breathing is hard.
    I also took 2 nurofen at the half way point cause I was getting a bad headache.
    It was also half raining half sunshine so super hard to find a comfortable temperature.

    Finally made it 🎉 🎉 🎉

    At the top was the Everest memorials for people who had lost their lives on the mountain - this was my favourite part of the day.
    We wandered around looking and ready headstones for about 20 minutes. Pasang’s friends memorial was there - Baba Chiri Sherpa. He holds 3 world records including the fastest to ever summit, time without oxygen aid (21 hours) and summiting twice in 2 weeks.
    Scott Fischer and Rob Halls memorials were also there along with many others.

    On we went and this section was flat too 🙌🏼🙌🏼
    Visibility is POOR.

    The yaks we use to cart our stuff up the mountains are half cow half yak.

    We finally reached Lobuche which is 5030m/ 16,502ft.
    Can feel it! 😂

    OUR TEAHOUSE WAS THE CLOSEST ONE TODAY 😱
    Very cozy inside and our room is simple but cute. Currently trying not to nap. Big day tomorrow. 2 separate treks.
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  • Day10

    Dingboche

    September 13 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    It’s Anita’s birthday today so we all signed a post card and gave it to her.
    I had the best jam for breakfast. It’s was red so presumably it was a berry but it was straight up bubblegum flavored. Delish!
    Today was another acclimatization day so we didn’t have to pack up our big duffels huzzah! Our shit is everywhere 😅😅

    Getting water organized is way harder the higher you go.

    Off we went for another fun climb. 😂
    We went from 14,400ft to 16,100ft in 2 hours.

    Today was hard. Had real issues breathing but not only that it was really cold but we were simultaneously also overheating. And then came the rain which made the whole experience quite miserable you normally do it for the views but there were none 😂
    Still in the damn cloud. Bit annoying, hopefully it does clear up.

    Me, Will and Anita went extra slow today.

    We were all fucking dying and our bloody Sherpa guide was so UNCHALLENGED he was clipping his fucking nails as he walked.
    I was busy hyperventilating. Maybe I’ll clip them next time 🙄

    Soooooo happy when we reached the top. We stayed there for about 20 mins and got some
    Pics.
    And back down we went.
    Ahhh,much better haha.

    We saw a vulture on the way which was cool.

    We have had our lunch and our daily nap. Have to pack our duffels tonight 😩

    Went down for dinner. Because it’s Anita’s birthday the sherpas organized a cake and present for her (beanie) they also each presented her with a traditional silk scarf thingo.

    The sherpas put tiger balm on our temples and noses to help with our colds and Anita goes:

    “They have banned that is some places actually because it’s made from real tiger”

    I can’t.

    How is she a person.
    Like, I like her but man is she painful!

    I’m not very hungry atm but trying to make myself eat.
    Decided to pack tomorrow morning which I will absolutely regret but can’t really do now cause my sleeping bag is out.
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  • Day9

    Dingboche

    September 12 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Today was the first day I successfully closed my duffel bag without assistance.
    My morning fun also included a nose bleed.
    Off we went.
    It was an easy start today going downhill until we reached a bridge. The old one lay nearby destroyed us the 2015 earthquake.
    Then we went up up up. There is a lot of big boulders covered in white script.
    We eventually arrived at the Pangboche monastery, a stop a lot of people miss because you have to climb higher to reach it.
    Me and Will were super keen because it’s home to the famous Yeti skull.
    Pangboche is the oldest Sherpa village.
    The monastery was built in the 16th century.

    It cost 250 rupees to enter.
    Hated taking off my shoes my feet reeked!
    Inside wasn’t as nice as yesterday’s but it was still cute. Much smaller and less WOW factor but still had lovely artistry and paintings etc.
    the yeti skull and hand were in a locked box. Very cool. I don’t know if they have ever been examined (can’t check no wifi 😅) but I’d love to know more about them. The hand is huge and the head has fur rather than hair. They look like real bone to me 🤷🏼‍♀️
    Very cool. Wish we could take photos but at least my entry ticket which is in my written journal has a pic.

    We then had tea in a tea house just above. I gave a dog a few biscuits and it followed us for the next hour and a half to the next village. Haha
    There was also a ratty kitten, I would love to squeeze but it had yucky ears :(

    1.5hour walk to our lunch spot. For my hot drink today I had hot grape and really liked it.
    Our dog friend seemed to know some of the dogs and abandoned us to go play. 😍
    Today’s hike was my favourite, after lunch we then kept climbing but it was a gradual and not a suicide mountain.
    I did roll my ankle but my boots saved me.

    There were 2 sections of the trek that killed me. Due to falling rocks you had to be super quick to cross.
    COULD. NOT. BREATH. 😂
    We saw some wild yaks. The wild ones are fluffier.
    The river we have been following for day one finally and to a fork. The left side was being fed from island peak and the right was from the Everest glacier.
    I drank little water today cause I’m pretty sure my hand sanitizer got into my water supply when I clears the nozzle.

    We arrived!!! 🤗🤗🤗🤗
    We are always, ALWAYS in the tea house furthest from the entrance gate.
    We had tea. (Love this system gets your fluids up)
    Got my sleeping bag out for the first time. Dinner then bed.
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  • Day8

    Tengboche

    September 11 in Nepal ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    So today can go fuck itself. 😂😂

    Had porridge for breakfast and I reaaaaaally had to push to eat it. Lots of climbing today.
    I’m at Tengboche at the minute and turns out in my rush this morning I think I have left my good merino at Namche. Gutted. Gonna freeze 😂

    Anyways off we went.
    Up up up for the first bit. The same Heinous route we have done 3 times now 🙄
    But then we had a beautiful 1.5 hours of mainly flat and smashed out a few K’s. Fav part of today hahah.
    Along the way there was a dude taking donations. He uses the money to make sure the path stays in good condition. He only wants small change so we gave him 20 rupees which is literally nothing but I only had 1 thousands.
    The views are spectacular but unfortunately the snow capped parts are currently covered by cloud.
    Will is feeling like total crap today. He didn’t sleep and has the on set of a cold.
    Willpower is the only he has for pushing him today.
    We went DOWN 200meters to have lunch meaning we had to refucking climb it. But before lunch we had a tea break at some place - sun was so bad I actually put sunnies on. I took them back off to walk agin. Can’t stand them.
    We crossed a suspension bridge and finally reached lunch. The toilet was gross but not the worst. It at least had the compost to help with the smell.
    Of course I had to have a poo on the way 🙄
    But my aim was true. 😂💪🏻

    We sat for about 40 minutes having lunch. Every meal now we get table chips. Great idea. 10/10.
    Really enjoyed their version of hot mango too.

    And so became the cunt part.
    2 hours to climb.
    Up and more up and up

    And Up

    More up.

    Still going up.
    Will was dying.
    I’m actually really proud of him.
    He wasn’t talkative and kept to himself but pushed on.
    George insists on talking or singing stupid ass songs.
    The amount of dad jokes is just unbelievable.

    We finally made it 😭😭😭

    Sitting in a cloud. Lots of cows just grazing and a random horse.
    Our tea house will do.
    It’s shared toilets but they are the cleanest I’ve seen.
    We are on the second floor though and the altitude is really starting to effect our breathing.
    1 flight of stairs and we have run a marathon.
    It was about an 8 hour hike today.
    We are now sitting at 3875m.

    We had about 20 minutes to gather ourselves and change clothes etc before we headed over to the monastery.

    Never updated this from earlier - Lucy and George are strangers, not married.

    Anyway the monastery had wonderful colours.

    We took our shoes off, walked in to the main hall had a look at the beautiful bigass statue of Buddha mixed with other stuff. Also the beautiful roof paintings before we all sat against the wall on foam mats.

    We sat informal silence and meditation until the monks came in.
    They stood in their spot, (rows of wooden benches with robes waiting) put on their big fluffy robe then sat. We sat there for an hour watching them chant. There was a lighting of candles thing going on to. But only one monk did that.

    LOVED the first 20 minutes.
    From then on I really needed to pee, I had such BAD pins and needles, I was cold and a little over it tbh. They don’t move. They just sit.
    One dude was full of yawns though. Lol

    So pleased when they were done lol.
    Wish I could have filmed. I got a sneaky super shitty blurred photo once they left.

    Ran to pee at the tea house.

    Dinner and an early night.
    Will is already asleep. Took him 3 mins max.
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  • Day7

    Namche Bazaar

    September 10 in Nepal ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Breakfast at 7:30. Had pancakes today. We were told to pack long sleeves for the trek.

    Ok so fuck me it was so hot. Even the energizer bunnies that are Tom and Helen were going slow cause they were overheating.

    Constant hill for 2 hours.
    Unfortunately it was total cloud coverage so couldn’t see shit but the trees started thinning the higher we climbed and the alpine flowers were everywhere and very beautiful! Helen and George are flower experts.
    Me? That is a white flower and that is a purple flower.. 😂
    Vocab for daysssss

    Basically all we did was climb.
    And climb
    And climb.

    We eventually reached the top. And we hung out there for a while to get use to it then headed back down. I am much better at down.

    Needed to pee so badly so I practically ran down the mountain.

    Lunch I had pasta again cause it’s a good portion as actually delicious. I tried to scoop out as much garlic as possible.

    Back in the room now. Having our nap then hopefully will go walk around.

    Went for a walk and found some art galleries we will have a look at on the way down.

    Such a jaggered city. Constantly going up or down to get somewhere.

    Love the random cows.

    Leaving Namche tomorrow.
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