traveled in 11 countries Read more Queensland, Australia
  • Day 68

    REYKJADULUR

    June 6, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Rated 10/10 by all of us!! The most gorgeous place- I have no idea why it's not high on the list of tourist traps, but I'm glad it's not!! The lack of tour buses makes this place even more special. We drove about 40 minutes southeast to the cute little town of Hveragerdi. The tourist info centre has an earthquake simulator which mimics what a 6.6 earthquake feels like (they had a recent 6.3 one), and there was CCTV footage of what it looked like as all the bottles fell off the shelf at the liquor store. Interesting.

    A quick trip through the town's main road and we reached the path to Reykjadalur. It's a pretty easy 3km hike up a scenic path. Signs warn you not to step off the path as the underground is pumping with geothermal activity and you never know what you may step into!

    As you clear the 'summit' and wind down a bit you see a waterfall, then pockets of white steam rising all around, here and there. Blue, bubbling ponds. The giveaway smell of sulfur. And then a long stream with a wooden walkway and various entry points. It's not too deep. Depending how far along you go, it gets hotter. There's not much privacy to change into your togs, so lucky it wasn't too busy! (Good old Iceland and its nonchalant attitude to nudity- see Buz's posts).

    Anyway, we spent hours soaking away in these all-natural hot pots. May have to sneak another trip in before we go!
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  • Day 66

    THINGVELLIR, GEYSIR, GULFOSS (& MT ESJA)

    June 4, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I'm driving in Iceland!! It's fun.

    The first day with car was a bit cold, drizzly, and cloudy, so we had an easy day driving 30 minutes north to Mt Esja, which we hiked up! Unfortunately the panoramic views were absent after a point due to cloud cover, but it was still gorgeous!

    Afterwards we warmed up at the massive Laugardarslaug pool complex- dipping ourselves in 42C pots until cooked, then plunging into 5C pots. Fun.

    Yesterday the sun came out for our big Golden Circle trip, a must-do on the tourist itinerary. The drive to Thingvellir National Park was like a moonscape. The clouds were dark, gray, and low at that stage so it was an eerie feeling, like you're in the middle of nowhere. But by the time we arrived at the Thingvellir car park, the sun had come out and so had the tour buses! Thingvellir was the site of the first parliament in Iceland, where all the Viking chieftains gathered once each year to settle feuds, make laws (on the Law Rock), etc. It is the site where the Vikings (under pressure from Norway) gave into Christianity and 'converted' a bit reluctantly- the head pagan priest Thorgeir threw his idols over the waterfall. So that was that. AND Thingvellir is the site of the Silfra Fissure- the division of the 2 tectonic plates between America and Europe. The water is unbelievably clear (& cold!!) and you fill up your water bottles and drink straight out of it. Mmmmm! We thought you had to be 12 to snorkel there, so we (Buz!) walked to the info booth with a confident lie ("our 12 & 13 year old sons would like to snorkel") only to be told minimum age is 14!

    Geysir (a geiser) was next - fun to watch it erupt every 5 to 10 minutes.

    Finally, the big waterfall Gullfoss, with a huge rainbow over it. The boys had great fun angling photos to make it look like they could eat rainbows (among other body functions whose photos won't be selected on Find Penguins!!!)

    We stopped by Bru farm on the way home to feed 'horse candy' to the Icelandic horses.

    Quiet day today, lunch and cards in town and a short drive along the waterfront. Tomorrow is another hike to some natural hot springs.
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  • Day 61

    REYKJAVIK, ICELAND

    May 30, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Iceland! It's a milestone of sorts- 2 months of travel now and no desire to stop.

    At the start of its summer, Iceland is as cold as a chilly winter's day in Brisbane. Think: winter coats, beanies, mittens. We arrived at 3am (almost sunrise here), after almost 24-hours of travel from San Sebastián via Madrid.

    Love it! Although I realise I fall quickly in love with most countries.... except China. Probably a bit premature as we have only been here 2 days, but I've already been googling locum jobs for Buz and I.

    We are eating up Norse mythology and Icelandic history (fascinating). It's such a charming place- colourful box houses, colourful locals, a country with a strong sense of self. It's ridiculously expensive - due in part to their huge financial crisis (which I don't fully understand), but I guess they have fallen on hard times, and tourism is one way of clawing up.

    Some fun facts learned on our walking city tour today:

    Real Vikings never had horns on their helmets. That was likely a historical embellishment from religious figures who likened them to the devil. Which is fair enough as Vikings were actually convicts expelled from Norway who killed / stole from the Irish monks here, as well as enslaving the Irish / Scottish men and taking their ladies. So depending on your p.o.v. they were explorers and settlers, or criminals. Both, actually.

    Iceland was ruled by Denmark until 1944, when they were sneakily able to declare independence because Denmark was busy being under Nazi rule. Denmark wasn't pleased.

    If your baby is an Icelandic citizen, you must give it an Icelandic first and middle name from the official approved Icelandic name registry. And there is no family name. You're known as 'father's name'son or 'father's name'dottir. I would be Amy Anthonysdottir.

    Their black licorice is so yummy (like all the Nordic countries).

    Their tap water is the cleanest in the world, even if it smells a bit like rotten eggs.

    They don't use pesticides here. It's illegal. Essentially Iceland is organic (except for what is imported).

    Electricity is cheap as there's so much geothermal power harnessed.

    There are 2 murders per year, on average. (90% domestic violence). Iceland has one jail ('the little rock') with 64 spots. If it's full, you just wait until it's free to do your time. But if you don't reoffend in a year, then you don't have to go. Unless it's a serious offence, then they kick out someone in jail so you can go in.

    There's no army. Only 3 helicopters in fact, most of which are used to rescue tourists from glaciers anyway. The police don't carry weapons.

    They have been voted the safest country over 5 years in a row.

    They are leading the way in gender equality- with mandatory equal pay for men and women.

    And lot's more!

    Tomorrow we hit the hot pots (geothermal pools) and on Saturday there's a big flea market. We pick up the car on Sunday to play tourist up and down the West Coast!

    SATURDAY NIGHT:
    At 10:38pm it’s still bright outside. Buz and I are taking turns reading The Hobbit (Buz) and snippets from the Iceland Sagas (me) to the boys at night before bed. Tonight is my night off, so I’m listening to Buz reading the Hobbit and lots of laughing. I woke up at 4am last night, but it was bright as day.

    Iceland is taking a piece of my heart. It might be the embarrassingly cringe-worthy but fascinating street dance competition, complete with hand painted poster that said ‘Dance Competition’ and young adults dressed up in their brightest 80’s aerobic gear doing their best co-ordinated group dance moves with oodles of gusto! Jesse said: ‘Its like they are all Napoleon Dynamite.’ I think Buz was secretly worried that I wanted to perhaps befriend them and join one of their groups (I did want that). We are still not sure if it was a serious dance comp, or just a bunch of kids taking the piss. I like to think they were serious.

    We went to the local ‘hot pot!’ That was FABULOUS! A prerequisite: you have to get over yourself enough to shower naked (gender-specific locker rooms) in front of everybody before you enter the pool. They are strict about that. The Icelanders walk around without a care (or piece of clothing) in the world. I tried to dissociate. Anyway, we all survived the prudish trauma and it was super worth it! The pools are ordered in various degrees of hot, fricking hot, and oh-my-god-I-can’t-stand-it hot. Then, once your face is lobster-red, you plunge yourself into the shallow icy-cold ‘pot.’ One of the locals showed us how to do it. You just take a deep breath, exhale, and count to 10. I made it to 3. Zach got his feet in. Jesse kneeled. Ever competitive, Buz got to 30 (counting as fast as he could) and tried not to cry when he got out. (Just kidding if you happen to read this, Buz. You were so manly). Not to be outdone, I made it to 10 the next time. Boys also played in a fun pool with a basketball hoop.

    We have also seen the Viking Longhouse exhibition and visited a photography exhibit of early 20th century Iceland that was really fun to see (& held in the oldest house in Reykjavík). We had fish soup on the Old Wharf, took the lift up Hallgrimskirkja tower for the gorgeous views, and browsed the local handicraft shops. The boys are fascinated by a Norse Mythology shop and want to visit it daily.

    Tomorrow we get a car, with more adventures planned as our circle of tourism widens.
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  • Day 52

    SAN SEBASTIAN, SPAIN

    May 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I liked it from the moment we stepped in the taxi.

    We are staying in Miraconcha, at an AirBnB overlooking La Concha beach. This huge, old flat has a gigantic terrace, so we can have dinner outside, overlooking the bay. The boys are thrilled because they each have their own bedroom.

    The first day was spent exploring streets of the old town, swimming at La Concha, and climbing Mount Urgull to the Castillo de la Mota, a 12th century fortress with amazing outlooks over San Sebastian and its beaches. Today we tried out Zurriola beach, famous for its surf. The boys rented boogie boards and spent a very happy hour catching (and getting pummelled by) big waves. They came out exhausted, with bellies red from sand-scrape and purple/white skin from the cold (only 16C today). I was happy to laze on the beach and watch a bunch of French high school kids at surf-school. Also simultaneously tried to avoid seeing (but it was so hard not to look, too!) the big, naked man walking up and down the beach, Borat style.

    Buz and I started a few morning runs, which brings back memories of the old backpacking days. Glory days. The only downside to Basque country is how much they like their ham. There’s even a ham museum in Spain. Everything has bread and ham... not my thing. Luckily, Jesse and Zach have been cooking for us at nights, getting to be the talented little chefs. We are contributing to the local economy in our excessive consumption of baguettes and gelatos. It’s a very relaxed, easy place to stay.

    MONDAY NIGHT
    San Sebastián (now aka ‘Ham Sebastián’ to us) has given us just the right amount of playtime. Loads of boogie-boarding at Zurriola, the ‘epic’ surf beach, until our fingers were white & numb with cold. We were bruised, battered, and ‘smashed’ by some rather fierce & large waves that often took us by surprise, breaking before we had a chance to escape. Good fun comparing surfing wounds. Some calmer plays in La Concha beach. Lots of hiking up to El Castillo, ‘rock wall climbing’ on the cliff face, frisbee whenever and wherever (thank goodness it broke). Zach had the clever idea of trying to get the frisbee looped around the finger on the Jesus statue. Good thing his aim isn’t that advanced. Pottered around the old town and generally enjoyed this laid-back city that is surprisingly non-tourist focused, despite the great number of tourists they get. In some ways, that is super refreshing. In other ways, you wish that the stores would open on Sundays and you could buy something from the restaurant that does not have ham. On the bright side, I feel like I’ve become good friends with the check-out lady at Spar who I buy groceries from twice a day. I bet she will miss me as I will her.

    Tomorrow is the train to Madrid, and en route to Reykjavik. Adios, Espana!
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  • Day 48

    MADRID, SPAIN

    May 17, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Finally, a chance for my Spanish skills to come in handy. Spain is good. For sangria, churros, and shoes, in particular. I'm not usually a shoe-type-of-girl, but Spain could turn me.

    Our first day has been excellent. We are staying in a great big AirBnB apartment very close to Gran Via. The neighbourhood, Malasana, is funky, artsy, retro. Reminds me a bit of St Kilda before it became swank. Street art, cafes, panaderias, boutiques, second-hand shops, a bit of grunge, a bit of mental illness...

    Today we visited the grounds of the Palacio Real (largest palace in Western Europe), although a glance at the entrance lines snaking around the courtyard put us off tickets. Perhaps after Rome we are just a bit spoilt by grand buildings. Also, the kids are fantastic travelers but am trying to be a bit selective about how much we put on them- they will get overloaded on museums in Paris and London.

    So that was my excuse for spending the afternoon sharing a jug of sangria with Buz, feasting on veggie paella, and watching the world go by at Plaza Mayor this afternoon. Think we all had fun with that. The 3 hombres got matching fedoras and looked muy guapo!

    LATER:
    Madrid was great fun, especially the last day at el Rastro Flea market, flowing along with the slow shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, trying not to lose sight of each other when we stopped to have a look. Great bands playing in the street, and a mojito or two. Buz kept us honest and educated by making us tour Palacio Real, in all its glittery, posh glamour. Soccer, gelatos, baguettes- Madrid was fun.
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  • Day 43

    ROME, ITALY (part 2)

    May 12, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We had a few open days before our flight, and reviewed travel options. The boys (& me) were really keen to spend more time in Rome... so here we are again!

    WEDNESDAY EVENING:
    Second time around, just as cool- if not better! Because we had already seen the 'big ticket' items like the Colosseum and Vatican museums, we thought this time we would check out the smaller attractions like Castel San Angelo, Boca de Veritas (Mouth of Truth), Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps- with a strong focus on food, ambling around, gelato breaks, and getting happily lost.

    Thoroughly enjoyed it! Castel San Angelo was a hit! It was initially built by Emperor Hadrian as a mausoleum for himself and family. It was later turned into a fortress and castle for the popes (complete with sneaky passage to Vatican 1.2km away), and also used as a prison where they executed prisoners for naughty things like alchemy and freemasonry. The boys enjoyed the antique weapons museum, such as a medieval crossbow/cannon, swords, suits of armour, first-generation pistols, etc. Buz and I enjoyed the rooftop view- stunning.

    We spent a couple of days walking around - hiking up the Spanish Steps with Guy Clarke's lyrics from Dublin Blues going round and round in my head. Threw coins and made wishes in the Trevi Fountain. Revisited the Pantheon after a rain- it really does rain inside. Put our hands in the lion's mouth at Boca Della Veritas and tried not to lie (else the lion bite our hand). Walked around Palatine Hill, the place where Rome is said to have started, thanks to Romulus killing Remus. Saw the Colosseum again. Jesse got his caricature drawn by a street artist. Went back for fruit cups in Campo Di Fiori. Sampled way too many gelatos and threw in a few tiramisu for good measure. And of course, there was rummy at restaurants.

    Buz is keeping us honest with our packing, so some of tonight was spent at Poste Italia with another box of goodies sent back to Aus.

    So, Ciao Rome- una citta multi bella! Tomorrow we head for new adventures in Madrid.
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  • Day 39

    LEVANTO, ITALY

    May 8, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Bongiorno from the Cinque Terre, a place of 5 seaside towns snuggled in the cliffs of some rather beautiful little mountains ovlerlooking the Mediterranean. Very quintessentially Italian- complete with 'siesta' time. So I think we will fit right in!

    Levanto is technically included as part of the CT, although on the very far end. It's more budget/family friendly due to easy access to the beach and an earthy vibe. I guess the main 5 towns are a bit fancy-pants. We shall check that out tomorrow! In the meantime, we are absolutely happy with this gorgeous place, even if it is the 'poor man's CT.'. It's so cute!

    Arrived after 5 hours on a boring train from Rome. The boys had energy to burn and were entertaining themselves with 'hilarious' games like pretending the train could sing Game of Thrones theme song (by lifting the flaps of the seats), as well as playing 'keep-away-from-the-cripple' with Jesse's walking crutch on the station platform. I was not amused.

    Luckily we fed them, played catch, and took a freezing swim at the beach & they were calmed back to their 'normal' selves (Buz included, of course).

    This morning rented bikes and cycled 6km or so through Bonnasola to Framura. Cycled through super-cool tunnels that were chiselled through the mountains in the early 1900's to connect these rather remote towns. That was THE BEST! Small exits from the tunnels led to tiny pockets of empty beach, where the boys had fun jumping off the rocks into the sea. Tried to warm themselves up after by covering themselves in stones heated by the sun.

    Unfortunately en route home Jesse stacked it on his bike! The tunnel tracks are damp and dark. Poor child. He was finally able to take off his moon boot and crutch for short periods- now he has possibly fractured his right wrist! So glad that Buz can tend to him. He's wrapped it up in a tight splint- and if it doesn't feel better in a day or so we will take the train to La Spezia for an X-ray.

    In the meantime we are enjoying the gelato (especially Zach!)

    SATURDAY:
    Had a wonderful week in the Cinque Terre; it had everything except for decent wifi! (Hence, the length between posts). So... Jesse's wrist swelled up and he was in enough pain we thought we ought to take it seriously. A lovely pharmacist pointed out there is a small hospital in Levanto, so we got to experience firsthand the wonderful Italian health care system! Jesse was seen straight away by a kind nurse who apologised for not speaking better English (?!) even though her English was a million times better than our key-word Italian phrases and mimed reenactment of Jesse falling off his bike. The doc saw him straight after and recommended he get x-rayed the next day at the mobile x-ray service visiting Levanto. Then they wrapped him in a zinc-cream bandage and we cycled home. Luckily, no broken wrist on x-ray!!!! Took it easy the next day though- just a stroll through the local markets, play on the beach collecting sea glass, and Jesse cooked a fine spaghetti meal for us (one-handed).

    Finally on Thursday and Friday we got out to explore more CT towns: Monterosso, Riomaggiore, and Manarola. Stunningly gorgeous, they all look pretty similar- like Levanto on steroids. Different shades of red, orange, and yellow old-style architecture built into the cliffs with maze-like, narrow and steep stone streets where you struggle to keep your sense of direction. Surely nobody with arthritis could live happily in these towns. And although super-adorable, it kind-of got overshadowed by the throngs of tourists, knick-knack souvenir shops, and way overpriced food that made you feel like you got sucked into a big tourism vortex. So happy to return to flat, chillaxed Levanto each night to escape the crowds. Also happy I didn't vomit on the water taxi (touch-and-go briefly). And happy that we managed to elbow our way onto the tourist train home. Can't imagine doing that in the height of summer.
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  • Day 35

    ROME, ITALY

    May 4, 2018 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Waking up in a 16th century AirBnB in Campo di Fiori!!

    Saturday night:
    48 hours into this incredible city- a whirlwind! Staying in the most amazing 1500's apartment. You drive through a maze of narrow, cobbled streets to get here. The building front has super-thick massive wooden security doors which lead through an arched hallway into a 4-story courtyard complex, smack in the middle of an authentically Italian neighbourhood- but also within walking distance of all the main sights. Even though it has been modernised, the exposed hand-carved wooden ceiling seems to be the real thing, as well as a few stone features.

    Yesterday we started off wandering about with no specific intentions- just in the direction of the Colosseum. We found ourselves in the Jewish Ghetto (in the 1500s the Pope made all the Jews live there), then strolling past the Teatro de Marcello and ruins from the Temple of Apollo. Wandered into a gorgeous church (randomly), and then in front of a National War Memorial, which had a lift that took you to amazing rooftop views of Rome. Brief pizza/gelato stop to recharge the batteries and then into the Colosseum and a stroll through Palatine Hill area.

    Jesse definitely seems to have fractured his tibia from skiing. Our amazing AirBnB host had a spare crutch to lend us. He carried on like a champ but was hurting a lot by the end of the day.

    Today we hit the Vatican, St Peter's Basilica, and Sistine Chapel. Took a 3-hour tour which was sooooo interesting and worthwhile. Boys' history (& mine) definitely schooled up. Maria, the tour guide, pointed out so many historical anecdotes and small details that I would have never noticed. The Vatican lets in 35,000 visitors per day, though- so we were packed in like a Chinese subway carriage. And there's just too many amazing pieces of art- by the end of the Museum part of the tour we just walked passed original works from Chagall, Dali, Matisse, etc. because there's literally too much to see.

    I do struggle a lot with the grotesque wealth of the Church and how so much of that wealth has been acquired in very dubious ways (to put it mildly), as well as the massive scale of abuses they have tolerated- even supported- which has become even more clear in recent years. So I was actually against taking us to the Vatican, as if felt somehow complicit to get tickets. But Buz vetoed me... & it is a jaw-dropping place (even the boys appreciated that). but I had to suppress a gag when the tour guide said at the beginning that the Vatican has few ways to make money - it relies on the generosity of the Catholic community. You only have to look at the priceless artwork in there to understand how they are one of the most wealthy institutions in the world.

    To avoid the dangers of dreaded 'hanger' after that 3-hour tour we grabbed a taxi to Piazza Navona and watched artists make some cool stuff and then feasted on beer, pasta, and a shameless platter of desserts!

    Tomorrow should be an easier day of a short stroll to the Pantheon and lots of gelato breaks.
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  • Day 32

    HELSINKI, FINLAND

    May 1, 2018 in Finland ⋅ 🌫 5 °C

    Wow. This is a fantastic city! I have totally underestimated Finland. In 2017, Finland was rated the 5th happiest country in the world. It has one of the best educational outcomes on a global scale as well. In other words, they are doing something right.

    We are lucky to have unwittingly arrived during the public holiday of ‘May Day.’ This is a big thing here in Helsinki. On May Day Eve, the city comes alive with people. During the day it was warm-ish and sunny. We rented City Bikes and rode around people-watching, wondering why there were an increasing amount of people wearing sailor’s hats, and why the many statues all had sailor hats on. We stopped at Market Hall for some famous Finnish salmon soup (yum!) and eventually came back to the flat for a mid-afternoon rest. By 6pm we were out again, and the streets were packed! Most people were wearing sailor-looking hats (which actually are something uni-related), and all the engineering students (of which there are many) wear brightly-coloured work overalls covered in patches. Everyone seemed to be carrying a large bottle of alcohol. Buskers played accordions. There was a musician who played glass bottles. Bands were parading down the street- most notably a drum band whose conductor was dressed in an inflatable dinosaur costume. Someone had filled the main fountain with laundry detergent. Groups of students were singing. Weird and wonderful people-watching. The boys played soccer in the square for a bit. Memorable day.

    Today (May Day) was cold and rainy. The City was amazingly cleaned up after all of the partying, but it was very quiet and much was closed. A good day for doing homework with the boys.

    THURSDAY
    At the airport, about to board for Rome. It is a sunny Spring day in Helsinki, good memories. Jesse is hobbling about. He had a sore leg after a stack on the last day skiing, but seemed to be recovering. After an hour's soccer the other day the injury has reared up again. Buz reckons it may be a hairline fracture of the fibula... which you can't do much about but stay off it. Not ideal for Rome! We are looking at crutches, but the pharmacist told us that you need to get them prescribed by a doctor here. We shall see what they do in Italy!

    Ambled around the National Museum of Finland yesterday to school ourselves up on Suomi history. The gist is that it had an interesting prehistoric past, typically dark and religious middle ages where bring poor would have sucked abysmally, then found Itself in the middle of a tug of war between Sweden and Russia for its land. So pretty impressive they have maintained their identity and language. And possibly why they seem to be such adaptable people.

    Also, amazing vintage shops! Bought 3 dresses for 6 euro! I can't wait to alter them a bit when I get my hands on a sewing machine. I think only getting 3 shows my level of restraint. Buz disagrees.

    Anyway, 'kittos' Finland for a great stay!
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  • Day 24

    LEVI, FINLAND

    April 23, 2018 in Finland ⋅ ⛅ 4 °C

    Safe and sound in the Arctic Circle. Been up since 2am (we are all on Beijing time). Trying to stay up til 8, then we will dose up on Melatonin and sleep the sleep of champions, ready to ski/board tomoz.

    THURSDAY: It's still winter wonderland here in late April. What a beautiful pocket of the world. Except for the ski field, the area is very flat which makes for long, easy, picturesque walking tracks. Wooden cabins are dotted around the place and birch (?) trees everywhere. Scandinavia feels very home-y to me. Maybe because some of my ancestors came from this corner of the world? Maybe because if you squint really hard this place is a bit like Iowa in winter: flat, empty, snow-covered. People are friendly, healthy, & happy looking (not like the dour Finn stereotype). I like Levi. It has good mojo. I like that shopkeepers speak to me in Finnish, not recognising me as a tourist.

    Finnish design deserves mention. Cheap, made-in-China knock-offs don't exist up here in Lapland. The clothes are beautiful (& expensive)- gorgeous cuts and fabrics. Furniture is funky and practical. Loads of wood.

    We have been skiing daily. I conquered a few red runs, quite a feat! Boys had to wait about 10 minutes for me to get to the bottom, but still.... and I learned how to use a T-bar (although stacked it here). Meanwhile, the 3 of them go off on races and jumps. Jesse should enrol in speed-skiing. Zach has invented a new kind of snowboarding he calls 'Superman.' Today I am thinking of trying out some cross country paths.
    ....
    We were sad to leave lovely Levi! From the great skiing, the buckets of strawberry milkshakes, rummy tournaments, snowball fights, saunas, and friendly locals. Such a great time! I found something called ‘Sauna Honey’ at the supermarket (‘Sauna Hunaja’)- a gooey lotion that you put on before the sauna, and as you sweat it exfoliates your skin and you smell heavenly of ‘midsummer birch.’

    On the last night we had a massive, quiet snowstorm with thick, chunky flakes. I took a midnight walk. It was the Levi Festival- so loads of people out in party mode. I ended up chatting to a couple of locals who said it was nothing- it even snows in May. They love Lapland but said the winter is constantly dark and you get depressed. The White Nights of summer are amazing, but they get plagued with giant mosquitoes in the ‘heat’ of 15C (their words!). So seems like we visited at just the right time.
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