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Artic Circle or bust!

May – June 2024
  • Adrian Dunkley
A 31-day adventure by Adrian Read more
  • Adrian Dunkley

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  • Sweden Sweden
  • Norway Norway
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  • 30footprints
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  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    Myklatun Camping - Øvre Eidfjord
    Vøringfossen waterfall - HardangerviddaVøringfossen waterfall - Hardangervidda1Spot Rachel!Norsk Natursen Hardanger - Exhibition centre of geographical and cultural developments of NorwayThe light changed just for this photo of the granite jetty in UtneOriginal house in the Folkemuseum in UtneCheck out the historical art work banner around this important meeting hallUtne church and typical building look in this perfect fruit growing village

    Myklatun Camping to Ålvik Co-op car park

    June 6, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Just a quick entry for memories sake, I'm a bit tied tonight.....
    Comments should be attached to each photo 🤞
    Also, the temperature's plummeted and there's been snow on the mountain tops - above the tree line 🥶 We're off to our surprisingly warm bed 🛌Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    Steindarsfossen, on the way to Bergen. You can walk behind it!
    1SteindarsfossenBergen harbour - original architectureLovely original housesStunning view to the east from the Fløyen Panorama. 2hr hike UPTonight's overnighter after road works and hassle out of Bergen (E16)

    Ålvik to Evangervatnet via Bergen

    June 7, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Too much driving again, this time bloody rain and roadworks. Long day sightseeing the Steindarsfossen waterfall (we walked behind it) and touring Bergen on foot. Including a 2hr hike up to a panoramic view point!Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    Hopperstad Stave Church at Vik
    300 year old trees were used for the tree trunk sized staves - the church was then built in 1130!Nearly 900 years old, not just solid, but stunningly beautiful tooCrosses of St AndrewVik's Hove Stone Church, built also in 12th century. The halo around the spire was actually the sun.Wooden carvings from Norse LegendsThe jetty on Sognefjorden. The second longest fjord in the world and 1.2km deep!1An outdoor pre-spaghetti bolognese beer 🍺Maybe the best camp...... so far.....

    Evangervatnet to Vik plateau

    June 8, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    A much needed lie-in, after the exhausting excursion to Bergen yesterday and then the pretty horrendous drive out (rain, traffic, road works, no places to overnight...) was followed by an also much needed trip to the supermarket in the pretty big ski and outdoor pursuits centre at Voss. Although pricier than home, the fruit, veg, sourdough, and stuff for the spag bol, surprisingly didn't actually break the bank. Alcohol and meat would have been a different matter though £££.
    Having stocked up, we headed up into the mountains on more magnificent switchback roads that had been closed for winter only a few weeks before. The plateau here, where we've ended up camping, is wide, lush green, with a big stream flowing; fed by the melt water all around. Sheep with 'cow' bells on, and lambs just old enough to graze, then suckle milk of mum, wander freely. We hope to see mooses, deer, or wolves, such is the landscape's attractiveness.
    Dinning al fresco for the first time in sunshine, although fairly chilly, rounded off a near perfect day. I lost at cards ☹️    Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    Bakka - small Stave Church
    Bakka - jettyUndredal - can you spot the camping? Does the village name remind you of a place in a popular film?Undredal's very small stave church - built in 1147! The bell tower was built to add capacity!Recognise any of the motifs here?Does the pattern remind you of a film?Sea level (the fjord water) up to the snow line - maybe 1100m - very quickly!!Evening walkEvening walk - enjoy the reflections 👌Evening walk

    Vik plateau (Vikafjell) to Undredal

    June 9, 2024 in Norway ⋅ 🌫 2 °C

    The cold and wet set in overnight and lasted most of the day. We elected to visit 2 small villages on their small fjords, still connected to the massive Sognefjord and therefore the sea!
    These are some of the most photographed in Norway and part of the Unesco World Heritage protection.
    Bakka was only a hamlet, reached through a one-way at a time only tunnel, which reminded me and Rachel of troll fables. Even more so, as on the return drive, we had to navigate a herd of billy goat gruffs 🐐 🐐
    Around to the next fjord, the weather began to ease, and we decided to pay for camping and stay and explore a little, and reach Flåm tomorrow in supposed sunshine. Also there are hot showers here!
    This village is magical and heavily inspired a massive recent children's film. Undredal sounds like?? The motifs on the tiny stave church remind you of?? Any guesses? Answer tomorrow 😉    Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    Departing photo of lovely Undredal
    1View of part the massive Sogneford from the utterly brilliant snow road/StegasteinStegastein viewing platform - typically Norwegian understatement - not!Once up to the plateau of the snow road, a wonderful drive through the snowy landscapeTrying to show the scale - but failing...2Back down to sea level at Sogndal, in a cracking rest area. First use of new bbq - thanks fam xSausage, onions, mash, and beans - so good 😋

    Undredal to rest stop near Sogndal

    June 10, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    The sun came out, and we set off to explore more majestic fjordland! Magical Undredal to touristy Flåm, up the snow road to the awe-inspiring Stegastein viewing platform, and on up to the snowy plateau before dropping back down again the other side.
    Best drive of the trip so far.
    Then tunnels and a ferry to Sogndal, where we found this great rest stop to try the new suitcase bbq for the first time. A great success by all accounts 🌭
    Tomorrow, we're hoping to reach a glacier - close enough to the road to walk to - if it's not receded too far 🙏    Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    Sad to leave this idyllic rest over 😢
    1No. 1 Glacier - Supphellebreen in the distance from Fjaerland village (breakfast stop)Supphellebreen GlacierSupphellebreen Glacier - chunks at the face fall often as it's still advancing, then regenerating3Supphellebreen Glacier. Against the stark blue sky, it left a real impression!No.2 Glacier - Boyabreen - The face of the glacier must have been 10's of metres thick!Team photo by the lake formed at the bottom of Boyabreen Glacier1And then we met the Iona cruise ship on a week's Fjords cruise from Southampton....2..... and carrying 3 friends - what are the chances? 😊No. 3 - Briksdalsbreen Glacier. The weather had turned and we'll go back tomorrow.....

    3 Glaciers & 3 Friends

    June 11, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Leaving one of the most attractive rest overs, we went in search of 3 glaciers and 3 friends.
    No.1 - Supphellebreen
    No.2 - Boyabreen
    No.3 - Briksdalsbreen
    The dazzling blue skies and warmth bathing the first 2 visits, before we entered a 6km tunnel, were replaced by the somewhat perplexing rain and cold we found when we exited, to make our way to the 3rd 🤨
    It turned out only to be a quick reconnaissance visit as we later camped nearby and will go back in the morning.
    Meanwhile, we drove back down the pretty valley, dodging tour bus after tour bus, and almost immediately met up with Vivienne, Kate, and Lesley next to their cruise ship. A lovely 45 minute meet up, over coffee and carrot cake, was just enough to enjoy, before they had to re-board
    We then re-meet with Carey & Mark for dinner and Yahtzee    Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    The classic snow taller than van pic!
    Sadly, the crazy road built 100 years ago was closed beyond the Ski CentreSmiling before the descentStill smiling at the bottom ☺️This is defo troll country 🧌As much of the fjord as I could fit in one photo1Yes, we went out to that viewing platform too!1

    Geiranger

    June 12, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Geiranger town, and the fjord named after it, must be the most visited of all places that tours and cruises could go! The perfect awe-inspiring valley walls, big big waters easily capable of taking monster cruise ships, plenty of waterfalls, and the insane roads down into and up out of the valley floor. (It has probably the most hairpins and the sharpest and steepest climbs we've come across 😲)
    All in all, the archetypal Norwegian Fjord experience!
    For anyone interested, it took 4hrs 45mins to drive just 82 miles!
    Weather cold, wet, and snowy up high, but spirits high 👊 if a little tired!    Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    General early morning broody loveliness after leaving Geiranger
    This is the before picture at the top of the famous Trollstigen descentThis is the after photo after the cloud had liftedLooking a little nervous perhaps shortly before the drive down 😟There have been harder, longer switch-backs, but none so clearly visible as this - zoom in!!Looking backwards from our lunch stop, we could just make out the waterfall we crossed on the decentLunch - consisting of Elk salami, brown cheese, hard bread, and Swedish 'cheddar'Overnight in Ålesund at the front of the van........ the real situation behind, 100 campervans parked up next to the water in a repurposed car park!

    Geiranger plateau to Ålesund

    June 13, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Today was all about the famous/infamous Trollstigen descent (the troll path). Although we arrived from a higher altitude, it's officially 850m above sea level, you descend incomprehensively quickly to sea level at the fjord below.
    About half the length is room for 2 (but not where tour buses and lorries join the party) - which leaves about half as a single track road with the odd passing bay.
    The hairpins are very tight and very steep, the sides are reassuringly marked with guard stones and/or barriers.
    Zoom in on the slow-moving traffic in the attached video to try and sense the scale of the task 💩💩
    It did make the drive out to Ålesund very tame in comparison!
    Ålesund is about as far west as we'll go. Soon, we separate from our travelling companions, Carey and Mark, and begin the push north to the Artic circle, beginning with the Great Ocean Road in 2 days time.
    For now, just over 2000 miles into the trip, we'll rest up and look around this old fishing port. Hopefully, taking in the broken coastline from a vantage point (if the weather is kind 🙏)    Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    Ålesund - from the highest viewpoint
    Ålesund - the central harbour entry1Ålesund - from the highest viewpointExcellent fish and chipsThe old warehouse quarter1Art deco and Art Nouveau on show 😊Another day - another ferry!Bud 👌Spot the van......A typical scene

    Ålesund to Bud

    June 14, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    A much appreciated chilled day today, in and around quiet and lovely Ålesund. We walked around and up and down various viewpoints and streets lined with art nouveau / art deco influenced buildings 👌
    Hurtigruten and Fred Olsen cruise ships were in dock, but the real tourist season has not yet begun. Streets were actually quite quiet. The air was fresh, and the sun was smiling.
    As we part with Carey & Mark tomorrow, we stumped up for some excellent fish and chips for lunch together, outside by the old quay 😋
    The van's were freshened up and re-filled, and off we drove by road, tunnel, and ferry (again) to Bud.
    What a great surprise this town is. Steeped in fishing history, occupied by Germany, whose fortifications are very much on show, and serenely sculptured with large white houses, this is a real gem.
    Its position on the North Sea is everything. We experienced it in tee shirts and full sunshine, but there was a reminder of the ferocity of this coast with memories of a 2019 near fatal stranded ferry on show at the harbour side display boards.
    An early start tomorrow (6am departure) will take us along the famous Atlantic Coast Road in full forecasted sunshine 🤞 can't wait!    Read more

  • Adrian DunkleyTravelerArtic Circle or bust!
    The Atlantic Ocean Road as featured in James Bond - No Time To Die
    The stunning twisted bridge that looks like it goes to nowhere!What it actually looks likeKristiansund old harbour front - where we parted with Carey and Mark so they could return to SwedenWe continued north, first to trendy Trondheim (shades of a Brighton vibe)........ it's pretty awesome cathedral........ and original lanes with trendy cafes and associated clientelle 👌Van tv - after the 7 hour drive

    Bud - Trondheim (+ a bit)

    June 15, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    After 7.5 hours on the road, to eat into some of the drive north, just a quick round up:
    . Left lovely Bud at 6am to drive the Atlantic Ocean road early doors in sunshine and little/no traffic. It featured in James Bond - No Time To Die
    . Drove the key 10 minute section (7 bridges linking 6 small island) backwards and forwards to get full value 😁
    . Finishing in Kristiansund at the Old Harbour where we parted company with Carey and Mark
    . Forged our way north to Trondheim. A very nice, trendy, Brighton-like city with wide open streets and narrower cobbled ones. Where the impossibly quaint colourful, wooden painted houses mix in with sophisticated cafes and restaurants ($$$). A really friendly place 😊
    . Drove up the E6 another hour or so to a pretty decent overnighter on the water at Skogn
    . Only another 400 miles to go to the Artic Circle!!    Read more

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