Stray - Ban Pak Nquey to Luang Prabang

Overnight the heavens opened their doors and a flood of rain water spilt out over the village. We lay on the floor, listening in the dark to the countless drops thrash against the tin roof in a roaring echo.

Leaving in the early morning light, we slid our way back down the muddy river bank to our boat that had lain moored overnight. Saying goodbye to the villagers, we reflected on how our stay had been an emotive experience for us both, with it bringing back memories for Alex of his time volunteering in similar communities.

We chugged along the Mekong, past flotsam carried by its strong current, made only stronger by the rains. Thick rainforest towered steeply down onto us, through mist obscuring the mountain peaks. Our boat just a small speck in the wide brown river.

Further along the bank we saw an elephant standing chained with its owner, just as you might pass a dog walker back home. Laos has an elephant population of 1600 with many kept as working animals by the local population.

We stopped at the Pak Ou Caves that contain 4000 images of the Buddha and a host of bats within its caverns. It is a site of religious significance to the local Buddhist population, the belief that it contains a number spirits that can protect fishermen on the Mekong waters. Climbing the steep steps we entered the cathedral halls filled with statues of varying sizes and colours. The drop of water on rock and the echo of our voices the only sound upon the stale musty air. In the upper cave we put on our headlamps and could see the sleeping bats high above us.

After arriving in Luang Prabang we wandered through the small streets with their memories of French colonialism. Wooden shutters on the windows of European style buildings built at the start of the 20th century and shops selling pastries and jewellery. All mixing with the traditional and ornate design of Buddhist temples, together framed in the green of palm trees and kept gardens. It appears to be a beautiful and popular city with UNESCO World Heritage protection from big development.

As the night market was being set up for the evening, the rains quickly arrived to drive heavily into the ground and scatter everyone to cover. We sat under the cover of a food stall, drinking ginger tea and banana smoothies as we watched the water from overflowing storm drains gush down the road.Read more