• Susan Smyth Lovberg
  • Susan Smyth Lovberg

Via Francigena with Liam

A 45-day adventure by Susan Read more
  • Stage 38: Bucey-lès-Gy

    July 21, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    It was supposed to thunder and rain today so we opted for country roads. Of course, it only sprinkled a little and we missed out on all the beautiful forest paths.

    We came across an outdoor Catholic Mass and the congregants invited us to sit down (on chairs! Yay!) and join them. Afterwards we enjoyed cookies and rosé before taking our leave. Everyone was kind and very friendly.

    The white cattle are for meat and the brown and white ones are for milk (but not for cheese! Not good enough!).

    It is remarkable how friendly everyone is. Another example from today: we were resting on a wall and the elderly homeowner made his way out to us to offer us water and apples. It isn’t an unusual experience for us this time.
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  • Stage 39: Cussey-sur-l’Ognon

    July 22, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    A delightful day! We walked along dirt (and mud) paths through the forest for most of the day. A small deer stopped and stared at us for a long minute before bounding away into the brush.

    We walked through Montboillon and Etuz before arriving here. All in all a very good day.Read more

  • Stage 40: Besançon

    July 23, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    There were more hills than I expected, but it was a very good day. Lots of shaded forest paths. We have been seeing a lot of huge orange slugs, which we are intent on not squishing.

    It is jarring to be in a big city after all the quiet country villages. We are staying at the Diocesan Center.

    Today, again, numerous people stopped to talk to us and wish us Bonne Route! or Bonne Continuation! and to ask us question or offer us water and food.
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  • Stage 41: Tarcenay

    July 24, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We decided it would be better to cut our next day in half by heading to Tarcenay today. Good decision, because walking twice this distance with all the early hills would have killed us.

    Besançon is surrounded by hills so our departure was pretty rigorous.

    There is something wrong with the camera on my phone, so today’s photos didn’t really turn out and more than half had to be deleted. Humidity?

    Fewer big, orange slugs today.
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  • Stage 42: Ornans

    July 25, 2024 in France ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    Up until now we have been walking along forest paths and through farmland. However, today brought a sudden change: high mountains, deep valleys, rivers and streams, incredibly tall trees……..

    We also met our first pilgrims since Brienne-le-Château! Clive and Andrew, both from Great Britain, were a delight. We met in Ornans and sat for a while to chat.Read more

  • Stage 44: Pontarlier

    July 27, 2024 in France ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    There was a lot of worry and shifting plans because of a rockslide but we ended up taking the original VF path…….and it was extraordinary! It would be hard to find a more exquisite walking path than the Valley of the Loue. We had to be carefull because of slippery stones, downed trees, etc., but it was still fantastic.

    We made it to Pontarlier where we had dinner with our French friends.
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  • Stage 45: Vuitebœuf

    July 28, 2024 in France ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We are in Switzerland!

    It was another long day, around 10 1/2 hours of walking with lots of hills. The walk out of Pontarlier was especially hard for us, even with our sticks. Of course, it was all beautiful. Forests, lots of horses and cattle, a few goats, an old fort that was visible in the fog just long enough for me to snap a photo before disappearing completely…….

    And, of course, a vending machine for cheese. 🧀🧀

    Too much road walking followed by……

    The Swiss border! We made it!

    The end of the day saw us walking through another lovely valley with a fast river running through all the stone and boulders. It was absolutely beautiful. Not as stunning as yesterday, but absolutely gorgeous.

    On
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  • Stage 46: Romainmôtier

    July 29, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    It was great to sleep in! So many days of walking with no respite….

    We were concerned about tomorrow’s long trudge into Lausanne, so we decided to overshoot Orbe, and sleep in a little tent at a lively campground on the way out of Romainmôtier.

    We managed to lose Liam’s hat, so we had to improvise.

    More forest walking and fields of sunflowers, corn, lots (!) of vineyards, dairy farms and……. our first view of the Alps far, far in the distance. Little by little……🚶🏻‍♀️🚶🏻‍♀️🚶🏻‍♀️🚶🏻‍♀️
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  • 46a

    July 29, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F
  • Stage 47: Lausanne

    July 30, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    We knew it would be a long, hot day, so we were up and out at 4H45. No small feat, since we were staying in a tiny, tiny tent. We were able to get in a good three hours of walking before the heat hit. We walked for 9 hours and fifteen minutes. A local told us the temp was about 91 degrees. And we trudged on.

    The Alps are now looming in the distance.

    Lots of sunflowers, two green crops we had no idea about, a donkey, a fox, three storks, a few goats, five falcons, a bazillion bales of hay, lots of heavy farm machinery, and more!
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  • Rest day in Lausanne

    July 31, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Today was our first day of rest. We have walked 22 days now, with no rest for the last 19. Our feet and legs are aching. A lot.

    I need to replace my shoes. They are the correct size for regular hikes, but not for day after day use. I need more space in the toe box, especially for hills. My feet have swollen and I would like to buy another pair that’s 1/2 size bigger than these. Unfortunately, everything is closed tomorrow for their National Swiss Day (or something like that) and the Decathlon I was aiming for will be closed. I hope I can replace them somehow in the next 2-3 days, before the bad hills.

    Most of the day was spent lying or sitting down. We did visit the cathedral, and Liam found a replacement for his lost hat. And I had my hair done. That was a relief, because after a couple weeks on the road my hair was grubby.

    I am going to come out and say it: I don’t like Lausanne. In France the roads were in perfect condition, the people were welcoming and, most noteworthy, it was pristine. No trash on the paths, no graffitti, the housed showed pride of ownership. We cross the border, and the roads were a little rougher, the people are a little less welcoming, the city is dirty and gray and uninteresting, and there is trash. I know people love Lausanne, and it is, in terms of geography, a good resting place, but I would not expend time, effort or money to return here.

    Tomorrow we will head to Montreux.
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