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Via Francigena with Liam
  • Susan Smyth Lovberg
  • Susan Smyth Lovberg

Via Francigena with Liam

Et 45-dags eventyr af Susan Læs mere
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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende
    1

    Stage 48: Montreux

    1. august 2024, Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    We left at 4H45 again to beat the heat. It wasn’t horribly hot, but it was very muggy with scattered thunder showers.

    In the morning we walked along the Lake Geneva/Lac Léman shoreline and later we turned slightly inland to walk through the Lavaux vineyards.

    This Swiss Riviera is very beautiful!

    Today is a national holiday so everyone seems to be at the shore: swimming, playing, sunbathing, strolling, enjoying an outdoor meal, poking around the innumerable kiosks and generally having a great time. Tonight there will be fireworks on the lake    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende
    1

    Stage 49: Aigle

    2. august 2024, Schweiz ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    Up and out by 5H30 to beat the heat. Luckily, because by mid-afternoon it was 86 degrees.

    We walked along the shore of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman) for a few hours. The Château de Chillon is quite a sight.

    Soon after the château we left Lake Geneva behind and headed south and inland. Lots and lots of brown slugs, which are harder to avoid than the bright orange French ones. We managed, barely, to avoid squishing any. Gigantic snails, too. 🐌 And trains! I can’t even count how many trains flew by us.

    It was pretty hot by the time we trudged into Aigle. The priest at the Curé Catholique was great. We are staying in a converted Catechism room. No shower, no hot water, WC outside. Very basic but remarkably comfortable.    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende

    Stage 50: Saint Maurice

    3. august 2024, Schweiz ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We were up and out of Aigle pretty early today, about 5H50. We are really trying to get as much as possible done before noon when the sun starts to blast us. Heat and hills are my main foes. It is only slightly less muggy than in Lausanne, where it was awful.

    We passed by the Château Aigle on the way out of town. Most of the morning was spent walking up into the forests/hills. I was surprised to see so many vineyards up in the forests. I dropped my Prince digestive biscuit and a tiny ant picked up a crumb snd headed off with it.

    We had a loooooong break (“pause”) in Ollon where we sat by a mannequin of Einstein. We decided we would no longer buy Swiss pastries because, well, they’re gross. Too many stomach aches!

    I never saw a Roomba for mowing the lawn, but they’re everywhere here!

    We followed the Gryonne river for a while before switching over to the Rhône,

    Saint-Maurice is a nice town. We are staying at the 1500 year-old Abbaye-Saint-Maurice. Real beds……and SHOWERS! 😊😊😊😊    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende

    Stage 51: Martigny

    4. august 2024, Schweiz ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    I was really nervous about this stage because I had heard the path was blocked due to rockslides. But no worries!! The official path at the Pissevache waterfall was indeed blocked but there was a secondary path right there that joined up a bit later with the official one. No problem at all!

    The VF app says this stage is “Medium” but it was by far the easiest and fastest we have had since we restarted at Brienne-le-Château. And very pretty. Lots of walking through forests. Boulders. Downed trees. A little different from past forests but just as pretty.

    There are a lot of cats here, which is fun. We also saw four llamas (alpacas?), five lizards, a bazillion bees and their ruches. We felt very sorry for three little horses we came across, with their manes and tails covered with burrs. I have no idea how the owner will remove them, short of shaving them. Poor things.

    We have been incredibly lucky with the weather. Today was hot but breezy when we were exposed, and cool and quiet in the forests. Perfect.    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende
    111

    Stage 52: Orsières

    5. august 2024, Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    This was a challenge. The VF app says 12.25 miles and a 3116’ elevation gain. AllTrails says 12.4 miles and a 2881’ gain, but I am pretty sure they lopped off the last hill.

    We were up and out by 5H so we could cover as much terrain as possible before the sun blasted us. It worked, because the whole morning was cool and breezy, perfect hiking weather. This is a lovely track! The photos don’t do it justice at all.

    Lots of up, up, ups along forest paths. The path was pretty diverse, with fallen trees and huge boulders to clamber over, and very narrow tracks along steep precipices. The path itself kept us attentive: sliding rocks, tree roots, mud puddles, gravel, etc.

    So very few ants for days and days, and then suddenly for about fifteen feet they were everywhere. Crazy times.    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende
    1

    Stage 53: Bourg-Saint-Pierre

    6. august 2024, Schweiz ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    Hard day! Up, up, up with few breaks. I always have a very hard time going up, and it’s worse if it’s hot.

    The VF app says we walked 8.75 miles with an elevation gain of 3280’. AllTrails disagrees, of course, and says it was 3081’. I’m going with the VF app because that’s the track we followed.

    Of course, the scenery was fabulous. ⛰️⛰️    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende

    Stage 55: Étroubles

    8. august 2024, Schweiz ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Italy!

    Today we started the climb back down, now on the Italian side of the Alps.

    The landscape is still stunning. One thing I noticed is that even though there are streams and rivers and springs everywhere, it smells dry. Not like on the French side where the air was sweet with the smell of trees, plants, wet stone, etc. Here the air smells of dry earth in spite of all the water. It’s wonderful, of course, but unexpected.

    I came across a map today. It’s always a shock to see how much terrain we have actually covered. And suddenly we are in Italy!    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende

    Rest day in Étroubles

    9. august 2024, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    A much-needed rest day. We explored a little but mostly we sat around.

    We noticed a number of dried flower bundles on or near the front doors of houses. We asked, but nobody knew what they meant. In the Navarra region of Spain (first Camino in 2017) there were eguizkilore like these to protect the homes from evil spirits,

    There is a yellow flower in the Alps, the génépi, which is used to make a digestif. A nice way to finish a meal,    Læs mere

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  • Susan Smyth LovbergVia Francigena with LiamRejsende

    Stage 56: Aosta

    10. august 2024, Italien ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    I am glad we left rather early today because even so it was scorching hot and very dry by the time we arrived in Aosta. The last hour was pretty hard.

    The first few hours were delightful. We walked along forest paths following the “rus” irrigation system. It captures naturally occurring spring water and channels it to the fields and orchards.

    It is amazing how much drier it is now, considering all the water.

    The last hours were spent strolling through apple orchards.

    Aosta is a nice, large town. A nice place to end the day.    Læs mere

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